.Has 





Book 



Mf.^ 



COPYRIGHT DEPOSIT 



A HANDBOOK OF FLORIDA 



BY 



CHAKLES LEDYARD NOETOK 



PART I. 
THE ATLANTIC COAST 



WITH FORTY-NINE MAPS AND PLANS - 




NEW YORK 

LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO. 

15 EAST SIXTEENTH STREET 
1890 



Copyright, 1S90, by 
CHARLES LEDYARD NORTON 



TROWS 

PRINTINQ AND BOOKBINDING COMPANY, 

NEW YORK, 



M q <?. 



NOTE, 



The right and title to **Tlie Florida AnniTal," of winch 
four editions Lave been published, has been purchased, and. 
the present Handbook is designed to preserve its best feat- 
ures in a new form. 



PREFACE. 



It was the editor's intention to publish at this season, a 
general Handbook of Florida, covering the whole State, even 
more fully than has been done for the Atlantic Coast in the 
present volume. It proved impossible, however, to arrange 
the necessary notes and data in time, and the sections relating 
to the Gulf Coast, Middle, Sub-tropical, and North Florida 
are reserved for another edition. 

The editor further desires to apologize for certain omis- 
sions, mainly in the matter of page references, that cannot 
be made good until the whole work is finished. 

The first section of the Handbook proper is devoted to 
sketches of the several counties, with maps compiled from 
the best attainable authorities. In the context the difi'erent 
railroad lines crossing the counties are given, with tables 
of stations and distances, so that, if desired, the different 
routes can be followed from county to county. The frequent 
establishment of new stations and the discontinuance of old 
ones may account for discrepancies between the maps and cur- 
rent time-tables. In future editions these will be corrected 
as rapidly as possible. 

In the second section travelling routes are described in 
general and in detail, with as much accuracy as possible un- 
der the changing conditions of a country where, a few years 
ago, railroads were unknown. 



viii PREFACE. 

Hotel rates, the usual prices for saddle-liorses, carriages, 
boats, guides, etc., are in the main the result of personal ex- 
j^erience, or from answers to letters of inquiry. Such rates, 
however, are always variable, with, in general, an upward 
tendency. 

The present volume treats of the Atlantic Coast only, with 
references to a few inland resorts on the direct route, and to 
the two principal railroad termini on the Gulf Coast. 

The editor will be grateful for the correction of any errors, 
or for information that may increase the value of future edi- 
tions. 

C. L. N. 

15 East Sixteenth Stkeet, New York. 
January, 1890. 



CONTENTS. 



[In order to permit the introduction of new routes in future 
editions of the Handbook, without disturbing the general arrange- 
ment, the routes are numbered decimally. Thus Jacksonville 
is 10; Fernandina, 20; St. Augustine, 30 ; while the intermediate 
numbers, 11, 22, 35, etc., are assigned to routes subordinate to, 
and more or less connected with each central point of interest.] 

PAGE. 

Introductory Matter, Hints to Travellers, etc xiii 

Paragraph History of Florida xs 

Counties. 

Alachua County , , 1 

Baker County , 6 

Bradford County. ...,...,, 7 

Brevard County 9 

Calhoun County 11 

Citrus County , 13 

Clay County 14 

Dade County 19 

De Soto County 21 

Duval County 23 

Escambia County 27 

Franklin County 29 

Gadsden County 31 

Hamilton County , 32 



X CONTENTS. 

PAGE. 

Hernando County 34 

Hillsborough County . . « 36 

Holms County 39 

Jackson County 40 

Jefferson County 42 

Lafayette County . . . .- 43 

Lake County 45 

Lee County 49 

Leon County 51 

Levy County 54 

Liberty County 55 

Madison County 57 

Manatee County 59 

Marion County Gl 

Monroe County 64 

Nassau County 65 

Orange County 68 

Osceola County 71 

Pasco County 74 

Polk County 76 

Putnam County 80 

Saint Jolm's County 83 

Sumter County 85 

Santa Rosa County 88 

Suwannee County 89 

Taylor County , 92 

Wakulla County 98 

Walton County 100 

Wasliington County 101 



Routes.— I. The Atlantic Coast. 

ROUTE. PAGE. 

10. Jacksonville 103 

11. Jacksonville to St. Augustine and return 110 

12. Jacksonville to Fernandina and return Ill 



CONTENTS. xi 

ROUTE. PAGE. 

13. Jacksonville to Mayport and return 112 

14. Jacksonville to Pablo Beach and return 114 

15. Jacksonville to Green Cove Springs and return 115 

16. Jacksonville to Fort George Island and return 115 

17. The Lower St. John's River and Domenique de Gourgues . 1 17 
30. Fernandina.. 127 

21. Amelia Island 130 

22. Amelia River loO 

23. Nassau Sound 131 

24. Cumberland Sound 131 

30. St. Augustine 133 

31. Anastasia Island 175 

33. Matanzas River and Inlet 178 

34. St, Augustine to Jacksonville 182 

35. St. Augustine to Palatka "182 

40. Jacksonville to Palatka by rail 183 

41. Jacksonville to Palatka by river 184 

42. Green Cove Springs 187 

43. Palatka 188 

44. Lake George 190 

45. The Fruitland Peninsula 191 

46. Crescent Lake 191 

47. Seville 192 

50. Palatka to Sanf prd by rail 193 

51. Palatka to Sanford by river 194 

52. Sanford 196 

53. DeLand........ 198 

54. Lake Helen 199 

60. Daytona 200 

61. Ormond 202 

62. Halifax River 202 

63. New Smyrna 203 

64. Ponce Park and Mosquito Inlet 207 

70, The Indian River 210 

71, Titusville 213 



Xii CONTENTS. 

ROUTE. PAGE. 

73. Rockledge 214 

73. Melbourne - 215 

74. Jupiter Inlet 216 

75r Jupiter Inlet to Lake Worth 221 

76. Lake Worth 222 

77. The Sea Coast South of Lake Worth 226 

80. Sanford to Tampa Bay and Port Tampa 227 

81. Sanford to Punta Gorda 228 

82. Punta Gorda, and Tarpon Fishing 229 

83. Winter Park 282 

84. Orlando 234 

90. Biscayne Bay 235 



FLORIDA. 



The state of Florida, owing to its semi-tropical climate, 
and its remarkable natural attractions, is recognized as the 
most favored winter sanitorium and pleasure resort of Amer- 
icans. Especially is this true of those who reside so far 
North that they are certain to be more or less incommoded 
by protracted cold. 

The Florida Season. — As soon as the weather begins to be 
wintry and disagreeable in the North it begins to be pleasant 
in Florida. Although the fashionable season does not ojpen 
until after Christmas, invalids or others desiring to avoid 
the first approaches of cold can always find comfortable ac- 
commodations near the principal places of resort. The lead- 
ing hotels usually open in January and close in May, and the 
travelling facilities are at their best during that period. 

Railroads. 

New York is the natural starting-point for travellers from 
the Northern Atlantic States and Canada. Through tickets 
without change of cars to St. Augustine and the other prin- 
cipal resorts in Florida can be procured at any general rail- 
way office. 

The Atlantic Coast Line is the shortest. Time, New York 
to Jacksonville, twenty-four to thirty-six hours. Vestibuled 
trains are run through from New York. 

There are three ordinary express trains daily each way be- 
tween New York and Jacksonville during the winter season. 
The vestibuled trains are made up of drawing-room cars 



xiv OCEAN ROUTES. 

with electric lights, libraries, dining-rooms, smoking-rooms, 
bath, and all the luxuries of a modern hotel. 

The direct route passes through Philadelphia, Pa., Wil- 
mington, Del., Baltimore, Md., Washington, D. C, Eich- 
mond, Va., Wilmington, N. C, Charleston, S. C, and Sa- 
vannah, Ga., to Jacksonville and St. Augustine. 

St. Louis, Louisville^ and Cincinnati are the three points of 
departure from the Northern Central group of States. From 
these cities frequent trains run either to Pensacola or Jack- 
sonville, or direct to New Orleans, whence communication 
with the Florida railroad system is constant and easy. 



Ocean Routes. 

The journey to Florida may be pleasantly varied by mak- 
ing part of the trip by sea, as indicated in the following list 
of steamship lines. 

The Clyde Steamship Company, Pier 27 East Eiver, office 
No. 5 Bowling Green. Tri-weekly steamers to Jacksonville 
(time, about three days). Monthly schedules are issued, 
giving dates and hours of sailing. All these steamers touch 
at Charleston, S. C. 

The Mallory Line, Pier 20 East Eiver, New York, de- 
spatches a steamer once a week to Fernandina, but little 
more than one hour's ride to Jacksonville (about three 
days at sea). 

Tlie Ocean Steamship Company, Pier 25 East Eiver, New 
York. Steamers once a week from Boston, New York, and 
Philadelphia (the latter freight only), to Savannah, Ga., five 
hours from Jacksonville (about forty-eight hours at sea). 

The Old Dominion Line, Pier 26 North Eiver, New York. 
Tri-weekly steamers to Norfolk and Eichmond, Va. (about 
twenty-four hours at sea), thence twenty-two hours by rail 
to Jacksonville. 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. XV 

Hints to Travellers. 

Outfit. Woollen undergarments, shirts, and hosiery of light 
or medium thickness, according to individual temperament, 
are best. Camels' hair, or some of the so-called unshrinkable 
flannels are preferable. There are days in every month when 
thin outer clothing, suitable for summer wear, is desirable, 
but, in general, clothing of medium thickness is not uncom- 
fortable. Moderately warm wraps, overcoats, and rugs are 
indispensable, and mackintoshes or other waterproofs are 
recommended. For men soft felt hats are best for general 
use, but sun-helmets of cork, pith, or duck are convenient 
for warm weather. Straw or ]palmetto hats can always be 
purchased in Florida. If much walking is anticipated high 
shoes are desirable, as deep sand cannot always be avoided. 
For men leggings of leather or canvas are recommended as 
a protection against the tangled " scrub " and its living 
inhabitants, especially the " red bugs " and wood-ticks that 
frequent the undergrowth. During the winter months 
snakes are rarely encountered. Leggings are also conveni- 
ent for riding, and are very generally used by tourists and 
sportsmen. 

All the articles specified can be purchased in St. Augus- 
tine or Jacksonville, at a slight advance upon New York 
prices, and most of them can be found in any of the larger 
towns 

The normal clear, winter weather of Florida is perfect for 
out-of-door life, but seasons differ greatly. While summer 
is usually the rainy season there are occasional variations from 
the regular order. Sometimes there are rainy winters, and 
every season brings its "northers," when a cold wind blows, 
sometimes for several days in succession, and fires and warm 
clothing are in demand. With a limited amount of luggage 
it is often inconvenient to carry a full supply of thick under- 
wear, therefore it is suggested that these sudden changes of 
temperature be met by donning two suits of light underwear 
at once. 

Railway travel in Florida is unavoidably dusty in fair 
weather, the dust being of that penetrating quality that ren- 



Xvi HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 

ders its perfect exclusion from cars wellnigli impossible. 
Dusters are not pretty to look at, but they add greatly to the 
comfort of travel, and any anti-dust contrivances in the way 
of caps, neckerchiefs, and the like will be found equally con- 
venient. 

Camp Outfit. Two woollen blankets, army size ; one sewn 
together at bottom and along two edges, to form a sleeping- 
bag, and the other left unsewn, for use in warm weather, 
$5.00 ; one rubber poncho, $1.00 ; one suit of oil-skin cloth- 
ing, coat and trousers, $3.50 ; one perfectly water-tight 
match-box (a tightly corked, large-mouthed vial is perhaps 
best) ten cents ; one pocket or watch-chain compass. This is 
indispensable in Florida, for in cloudy weather there is noth- 
ing to steer by in the piny woods, and the watercourses are 
often so tortuous that bearings are easily lost, fifty cents 
upward ; one mosquito net. Florida hunters use ' ' cheese- 
cloth," as that is proof against sand-flies while the ordinary 
netting is not. The foregoing list covers essentials only. 
The aggregate cost need not exceed $12.00 

Shooting Outfit. Guns according to preference, since every 
sportsman has his favorite. A light 32 or 44 calibre rifle 
will be found very convenient. Game of all kinds has been 
shot at so much since the introduction of breech-loaders 
that it has become very wild. The rifle can often be used 
wdth good results when shot-guns are useless. 

For sihot, Nos. 9 and 4 with a supply of buckshot for large 
game, and a few long-range cartridges have been found to 
serve well for general shooting. 

Fishing Outfit. An ordinary bass-rod, reel, and line is best 
for general purposes. Common metallic spinners or spoons 
are used for trolling. Florida fishes handle trolling gear 
rather roughly, and " phantom minnows " and the like are 
apt to come to grief. For general purposes, Limerick hooks, 
ringed and bent, are as good as any. A supply of gut-snelled 
hooks is desirable for use in the perfectly clear waters of 
certain streams, but in general linen snells are best. The 
most useful sizes of hooks range from 610 downward, though, 
of course, for the heavy weights the larger sizes are neces- 
sary. Sinkers must be provided and floats are often useful. 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. xvff 

Special tackle for tarpon and kingfish is described under 
Eoute 82. 

Money. A list of towns having banks or bankers is given 
below, A supply of silver quarter-dollars and of nickel five- 
cent pieces will be found convenient, as small change is apt 
to be scarce away from the larger cities. A stock of one 
dollar bills is preferable to those of larger denominations 
since the weighty and inconvenient silver dollar is in 
Florida almost invariably tendered in change. 

Banks. 

Apopka, Orange County.— Bank of Apopka. 

Bartow, Polk County.— Polk County Bank. 

Brooksville, Hernando County.— Bank of Brooksville (not incorporated). 

Daytona, Volusia County, — Bank of Daytona. 

De Land Volusia County. — F. S. Goodrich. 

Eustis, Orange County. — Bishop Bros. 

Fernandina, Nassau County. — Bank of Femandina. 

Gainsville, Alachiia County. — First National Bank. H. F. Button & Co. 

Interlachen, Putnam County.— Taylor & Warren. 

Jacksonville, Duval County. — First National Bank. The Florida Savings 
Bank. National Bank of Jacksonville. National Bank, State of Florida. 
State Bank of Florida (not incorporated). Ambler, Marvin & Stockton. 

Key West, Monroe County. — Bank of Key West. John WTiite Bank. 

Kissimmee, Osceola County. — Kissimmee City Bank. 

Lake City, Columbia County. — ^N. S. Collins & Co. 

Lakeland, Polk County. — I. J. J, Nieuwenkamp. 

Leesburg, Sumter County. — Morrison, Stapylton & Co. Yager Bros. 

Ocala, Marion County. — The Buifum Loan & Trust Co. First National Bank. 

Orlando, Orange County.— National Bank of Orlando. Orlando Loan &. Sav- 
ings Bank. 

Palatka, Putnam County.— First National Bank. 

Pensacola, Escambia County. — First National Bank of Pensacola. Mer- 
chants' Bank. F. C. Brent & Co. 

Punta Gorda, De Soto County. 

Sanford, Orange County. — First National Bank. 

Seville, Volusia County. — ^Bank of Seville. 

St. Augustine, St. Johns County. — First National Bank. 

Stanton, Marion County. — The Buffum Loan & Trust Co. 

Tallahassee, Leon County. — B. C. Lewis & Son. 

Tampa, Hillsboro County.— First National Bank of Tampa. 

Tarpon Springs. — Bank of Tarpon Springs. 

Tavares, Lake County. — Bank of Tavares (not incorporated). 

Titusville, Brevard County.— Indian River Bank. 

Travelling Exjyenses. Individual tastes and habits of ne- 
cessity govern daily expenses. Lawful rates by rail in 
Florida are 3 cents a mile on the main lines, and 4 and 5 cents 
a mile on branches and local roads. If the traveller fre- 
quents the most expensive hotels his daily bills will be from 
$3 to ^5 a day, or even more, exclusive of "tips," but in 



xviii HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. 

most of the resorts comfortable quarters can be found at 
lower rates, say $2 a day, or $8 to $10 a week. With reason- 
able economy $5 a day should be a fair average, covering all 
strictly travelling expenses, and leaving something to spare 
for emergencies. It is earnestly recommended that travel- 
lers give only reasonable fees to attendants. In all resj)ect- 
able hotels tliey are paid good wages and excessive fees tend 
to lower their sense of duty. Small fees of five or ten cents, 
given on the spot for services rendered, secure better attend- 
ance, and are less demoralizing to the recipient than large 
fees postponed till the hour of departure. 

In the height of the season it is well to telegraph in ad- 
vance for rooms. If a prolonged stay is made at a hotel an 
itemized bill should be called for at least once a week, since 
errors can be most easily corrected when fresh in mind. 
The final bill should be called for several hours in advance 
of departure — the night before in case of an early morning 
start. This gives time for the inevitable discussion conse- 
quent upon the discovery of actual or supposed mistakes. 

In many of the small hotels away from the principal re- 
sorts, bathing facilities are very j)rimitive, if not wanting al- 
together. A i^air of bathing mittens carried in a waterproof 
sponge-bag, so that they can be packed away even when wet, 
has been found an untold luxury under such conditions ; 
and in the same category may be mentioned a cake of soap 
in a flannel bag of its own (not waterproofed). Such a bag 
is far better than the ordinary travellers' soap-box, in which 
the soaj) rapidly deteriorates when not packed away in a 
perfectly dry state. 

Biding and Driving. The ordinary Florida road is not 
well adapted for pleasure driving, but there are certain sec- 
tions of the State, as in Marion County, where a carriage may 
be driven for many miles at a moderate pace through the 
open woods. Elsewhere, in sections where clay predomi- 
nates, as in Gadsden and Leon Counties, the roads are excel- 
lent, save in wet weather. Near the coast, too, there are shell- 
roads of admirable smoothness. This is notably the case at 
Fort George Island, Duval County, in the vicinity of Jack- 
sonville, and near New Smyrna. Finally, the ocean beaches 



HINTS TO TRAVELLERS. XIX 

from Fernandina south to Cape Canaveral are, as a rule, 
perfect in all respects for driving or wheeling. The only 
drawback is that for an hour or two every day when the tide 
is at full flood the finest i^art of the driveway is under 
water. 

Equestrians will find passably good saddle-horses at very 
reasonable rates almost everywhere in the State. Eiding 
through the woods is always enjoyable, and a gallop on the 
beaches referred to above is exhilarating beyond descrip- 
tion. 

Walking Trips. Extended pedestrian excursions are not 
likely to be undertaken in Flolida, or, if undertaken, are not 
likely to be repeated. Several weighty reasons are against 
them. The distance from one place of interest to another is 
usually too great to be covered on foot in a day. The coun- 
try roads are always sandy, save in rare instances, and the 
scenery is, as a rule, very monotonous. From many of the 
resorts i^leasant walks may be taken through the woods or 
along the beaches. Often the walking is easy and the 
ground reasonably clear of undergrowth in the pine woods 
as well as in the hammocks, but where the saw palmetto is 
found progress is always difficult. No stranger should ven- 
ture into Florida woods without a compass. None of the 
signs known to Northern woodsmen hold good here, and 
bearings are very easily lost, particularly under a cloudy sky 
or when night is coming on. 

All pedestrians in Florida will sooner or later form the 
acquaintance of the "red bug," an insect almost invisible 
as to size, but gigantic in his power of annoyance. High 
boots or tight leggings, aff'ord some protection, but a salt- 
water bath (natural or artificial) or rubbing with alcohol 
or ammonia immediately on reaching home is a sure prevent- 
ive of ill effects. 



XX PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 



Paragraph History of Florida. 

1497. The English claim to priority of disco veiy is based 
on the following passage in Sebastian Cabot's narrative : 
"Despairing to find the passage I turned back again, and 
sailed down by the coast of land toward the equinoctial (ever 
with the intent to find the said passage to India), and came 
to that part of this firm land which is now called Florida, 
where my victuals failing, I departed from thence and re- 
turned into England." During the same year, according 
to Francisco Adolpho de Varnhagen, Americus Vespucius 
coasted the whole peninsula. 

1500-1502. Gaspar Corte-Keal, probably a Spanish trader, 
furnished data from which was traced the first approximately 
correct outline of the North American coast, clearly indi- 
cating the Floridian peninsula (Cantino's map, Lisbon, 1502, 
now preserved in the Biblioteca Estense, at Modena> Italy). 

1513. March 27. Easter Sunday (Pascua Florida, in 
Spanish) Juan Ponce de Leon sighted the coast near St. 
Augustine, and named it in honor of the day.' 

1513. April 2. He landed in 30° 8' north latitude, prob- 
ably near Fernandina. 

1513. April 8. He took formal possession in the name of 
the King of Spain. 

1516. Diego Miruelo, a pilot and trader, discovered a bay, 
probably Pensacola, which long bore his name on Spanish 
maps. Ponce de Leon made a second voyage of discovery, 
but was driven off by the natives, who killed several of his 
men. 

1517. February. Francis Hernandez de Cordova, while 
on a slave-hunting expedition, landed at some unidentified 
place on the west coast of Florida. His men were attacked 
by the natives and driven off. De Cordova himself was fa- 
tally wounded. 

1519. Alonzo Alvarez de Pineda discovers the coast in the 



' The year 1512 is usually given as the date of this discovery. Justin Wineor, 
Vol. II., cites official document? proving that 1513 is the correct date. 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxi 

vicinity of Pensacola, and proves that Florida is not an 
island. 

1521, Februai'y or March. Ponce de Leon, con5nissioned 
as governor " of the Island Florida," landed at some j)oint 
probably not far from St. Augustine, and attempted to take 
possession. He was fatally wounded in a fight with the na- 
tives, and the settlement was abandoned. 

Francisco Gordillo and Pedro de Quexos, sent out by 
Lucas Vasquez de Ayllon, discovered a large river and named 
it St. John the Baptist. They kidnapped about seventy of the 
friendly natives, and carried them away. These Indians 
were subsequently returned to their homes. 

1525. Pedro de Quexos returned, by order of Ayllon, 
regained the good-will of the Indians, and explored the 
coast for two hundred and fifty leagues, setting up stone 
crosses bearing the name of Charles V. of Spain, and the 
date of taking possession. 

1528. April 14, Pamphilo de Narvaez with a fleet of five 
vessels, containing four hundred men and eighty horses, 
landed in Bahia de la Cruz (perhaps Clearwater Harbor). 
The fleet was sent along the coast, while the army marched 
inland and perished, all save four, who escaped after eight 
years of captivity. 

1539. May 25. Hernando de Soto reached Tampa Bay, 
and named it Espiritu Santo. His force was five hundred 
and seventy men, with two hundred and twenty-three horses 
and a complete outfit. He marched northward and westward, 
treating the Indians, friend and foe alike, with cruel treachery 
and violence. Passing beyond the present boundaries of 
Florida he discovered the Mississippi River, where he died 
and was buried beneath its waters. 

1549. June 25. Father Luis Canca de Barbastro, in 
charge of a missionary expedition, landed near Clearwater 
Harbor, and was killed by the Indians with four of his asso- 
ciates. 

1559. July 1. Tristan de Luna' y Arellano, with one 
thousand five hundred soldiers and settlers, landed in Ichuse 
(Santa Eosa) Bay. A hurricane almost destroyed his fleet, 
on September 19th. Explorations were undertaken, but re- 



xxii PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

suited ill no discoveries of importance. Mutinies followed 
among tlie troops, and eventually the settlement was aban- 
doned. 

1562. May 1. Jean Ribaut, a French Huguenot, with a 
colony of the same faith, entered the St. John's Eiver, re- 
named it La Riviere de Mai, and erected a stone monument 
bearing the arms of France. No attempt at permanent set- 
tlement was made at this time. 

1564. June 22. Rene de Laudonniere, a French Hugue- 
not, discovered the harbor of St. Augustine and named it La 
Riviere des Dauphines. 

1564. July. Fort Caroline built by the French, prob- 
ably at St. John's Bluflf, near the mouth of the ''River of 
May" (St. John's). 

1565. August 3. Sir John Hawkins entered the river, 
relieved the wants of the French colony, and told Laudon- 
niere of an intended Spanish attack. 

1565. August 28. Pedro Menendez d'Aviles, with a 
strong Spanish fleet, reached the coast north of Cape Canav- 
eral. 

1565. August 28. He discovered St. Augustine harbor 
and named it after Aurelius Augustinus, Bishop of Hippo. 

1565. August 28. Ribaut reached the St. John's with re- 
enforcements for the French. 

1565. September 4. Menendez arrived at the St. John's 
River and prepared to give battle to the French, who put to 
sea, pursued by the Spaniards. 

1565. September 5. Menendez returned to find that 
more French ships had arrived. He retreated to St. Augus- 
tine and, finding the natives friendly, founded the city on 
its present site, the oldest in the United States. 

1565. September 8. Menendez landed the greater part 
of his force and took formal possession of St. Augustine in 
the name of the King of Spain. 

1565. September 10. Ribaut's fleet wrecked in a hurri- 
cane near Canaveral. 

1565. September 29. Menendez received the surrender 
of an advance party of the French who survived the wreck 
of their fleet at Matanzas Inlet, and put 111 of them to 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxi'ii 

death. Sixteen wlio professed to be Catholics were spared, 
at the intercession of the Spanish chaplain. 

1565. September 30. Menendez, having marched over- 
land with 500 men, surprised and put to death the French 
garrison at Fort Caroline. A few escaped, including Lau- 
donniere, the commander. 

1565. October 1. Laudonniere and the survivors of the 
massacre escaped to sea in two small vessels. 

1565. October 10. Ribaut, with the rest of the surviv- 
ing French, reached Matanzas. About half of them sur- 
rendered and were put to death. The rest retreated to Ca- 
naveral and built a fort. 

1565. November 8. Menendez attacked the French at 
Canaveral. Most of them surrendered and were spared. 

1565-66. (Winter.) The French survivors who had es- 
caped to the woods incited the Indians to attack Fort Caro- 
line, which the Spaniards had renamed San Mateo. 

1566. March 20. Menendez returned to St. Augustine 
from a voyage, quelled a mutiny with difficulty, relieved San 
Mateo, reorganized the garrisons, and sailed for Spain, which 
he reached in July. 

1568. April. Domenique de Gourgues, with the avowed 
intention of avenging the massacre at Matanzas, captured 
the Spanish forts on the St. John's River, hanged the surviv- 
ors of the fight, and destroyed the fortification. 

1568-1586. European interest in Florida languished. 
Settlements were sustained mainly through the personal ef- 
forts of Menendez. 

1586. Sir Francis Drake, the English freebooter, at- 
tacked St. Augustine. The Spaniards fled, offering scarcely 
any resistance, and the place was burned. After Drake's de- 
parture the people returned and began to rebuild the town. 

1593. Twelve Franciscan missionaries were distributed 
among tb s Indians on the east coast. 

1598. The Franciscan missionaries were nearly all killed 
by the Indians. 

1612-13. Thirty-one Franciscans sent from Spain. 
Florida constituted a Religious Province of the Order, and 
named St. Helena. 



xxiv PARAGRArH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

1638. War between Spanish colonists and the Apalachee 
tribe, resulting in the subjugation of the Indians. 

1665. St. Augustine pillaged by English freebooters un- 
der Captain John Davis. The S^Daniards made little or no re- 
sistance. 

1655. The hereditary governorship of the Menendez fam- 
ily terminated, and was succeeded by Diego de Kebellado, 
as Captain-General. 

1675. Don Juan Hita de Salacar became Captain-General. 

1680. Don Juan Marquez Cabrera became Captain-Gen- 
eral. 

1678. The commandant of St. Augustine sent out a suc- 
cessful expedition against the English and Scotch settlements 
near Port Royal. 

1687. A large consignment of negro slaves brought to 
Florida by one De Aila. 

1681. The Governor (Cabrera) attempted to remove sev- 
eral Indian tribes to the islands on the coast. Hostilities 
followed, many Christian Indians were killed and others 
carried away as slaves. 

1696. Under authority of the Viceroy of New Spain a 
settlement was made at Pensacola, and Fort Charles was 
built. 

1702. September and October. Governor Moore of South 
Carolina laid siege to St. Augustine, by land and sea. The 
town was occupied and burned, but the castle (the present 
Fort Marion) held out. Two Spanish vessels appeared and 
Governor Moore withdrew, losing his transjDorts. 

1703-4. Governor Moore sent an expedition into M^^Jdle 
Florida mainly directed against the Indians friendly to Spain. 
He destroyed several towns and carried off many Indians to 
slavery, at the same time defeating the Spaniards under Don 
Juan Mexia, who came to the aid of their Indian allies. 

1708. Colonel Barnwell of South Carolina invaded Mid- 
dle Florida and raided through the Alachua country east- 
ward to the St. John's River. About the same time Captain 
T. Nairn of the same forces penetrated to the head waters 
of the St. John's, and possibly to the Okeechobee region, 
bringing back a number of slaves. 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OP FLORIDA. xxv 

1718. March. Fort San Marcos de Apalaclie erected at 
St. Mark's by Spaniards nnder authority of the Governor of 
St. Augustine. About the same time the French estab- 
lished Fort Crevecceur at St. Joseph's Bay, but soon aban- 
doned it and the Spaniards took possession. 

1718. May 14. The French under Bienville, the com- 
mandant at Mobile, attacked the Spaniards at Pensacola, 
and mainly by stratagem cajDtured the entire garrison, who 
were sent to Havana in accordance with a promise made be- 
fore the surrender. 

1718. Two Spanish ships appeared off Pensacola, and 
after a brief bombardment received the surrender of the 
French commander. The fortifications were at once strongly 
garrisoned, and an unsuccessful attack was made on the 
French, who still held Dauphin Island. 

1719. September 18. After a series of actions the Span- 
ish at Pensacola surrendered to the combined land and 
naval forces of the French under Desnade de Ohami^smelin. 
Pensacola was destroyed and abandoned, and the captured 
Spaniards were taken to France as prisoners of war. 

1722. Pensacola reoccupied by the Spaniards on declara- 
tion of peace, and the town rebuilt on Santa Eosa Isl- 
and. 

1727. Colonel Palmer of South Carolina, after certain un- 
successful negotiations with the Spanish authorities in Flor- 
ida, made a descent upon the northern part of the province, 
and with the aid of Indian allies harried the whole country 
to the gates of St. Augustine, capturing many slaves and 
driving off much live stock. 

1736. . Spain formally claimed all territory south of St. 
Helena Sound, as part of her Floridian possessions, and 
warned England to withdraw her colonists. Futile negotia- 
tions followed. 

1739. October. War declared between England and 
Spain, because of alleged encroachments by both parties in 
the provinces of Georgia and Florida. Governor Oglethorpe 
of Georgia, having already jDrepared a force, at once invaded 
the disputed territory. 

1739. December. A detachment of Oglethorpe's men 



XX vi PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

attacked Fort Poppa on tlie St. John's Eiver, opposite Pico- 
lata, but were repulsed by the Spaniards. 

1740. January. Fort at Picolata captured by the Eng- 
lish. 

1740. June 20 till July 7. Siege of St. Augustine by 
the English under Major-General James Edwarc). Oglethorpe, 
Governor of Georgia. The defence was successfully con- 
ducted by a Spanish garrison of 750 men under Don Manuel 
de Monteano. 

1742. July 5. Monteano led an expedition against Ogle- 
thorpe, sailing fi'om St. Augustine. He was repulsed after 
having forced the English to abandon their first position. 

1743. March. General Oglethorpe invaded Florida, and 
surprised the garrison of St. Augustine, killing some forty 
men before they could gain the citadel. Oglethorpe with- 
drew, not being prepared to conduct a siege. 

1748. Suspension of hostilities by treaty between Great 
Britain and Spain. 

1750. As the result of a tribal quarrel among the Creek 
Indians in Georgia, Secofifee, a noted chief of the tribe, 
headed a movement for secession, and with a large number 
of followers settled in the Alachua country, Florida. These 
Indiahs became known as Seminoles, i.e., seceders, out- 
laws. 

1762. Hostilities renewed between Spain and Great Brit- 
ain. The English capture Havana. 

1763. February 10. By treaty Great Britain and Spain 
effected an exchange of Cuba for Florida, and the English 
at once took possession of Florida, and General James Grant 
was appointed Governor. 

1765. The " King's Eoad," constructed from St. Augus- 
tine to the St. Mary's Biver. 

1766. Forty families emigrated from Bermuda to Mos- 
quito Inlet. 

1767. Colony of 1,500 Minorcans established by Dr. Turn- 
bull at Mosquito Inlet (New Smyrna). 

1776. Colony at New Smyrna broken ujd because of al- 
leged harsh treatment. 

1774. In view of the disaffection of the northern colonies 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OP FLORIDA. xxvii 

pending tlie war for Independence, immigration of loyalists 
was encouraged from Georgia and the Carolinas. A consid- 
erable number settled near St. Augustine. 

1775. August. An American privateer captured tlie 
British supply ship Betsey, off the harbor of St. Augustine, 
in sight of the British garrison. 

1778. Nearly 7,000 loyalists moved into Florida from 
Georgia and the Carolinas. 

1779. September. Hostilities resumed between Spain 
and Great Britain. 

1780. Sixty-one prominent South Carolinians sent to St. 
Augustine by the British authorities as prisoners of State. 

1781. March — May. The Spaniards under Don Bernardo 
de Galvez, with a naval force under Admiral Solana, invested 
Pensacola, which was defended by about 1,000 English under 
General Campbell. A chance explosion of a magazine com- 
pelled the surrender of the English, who cajjitulated on 
honorable terms to a largely superior force. 

1783. Colonel Devereaux, a loyalist fugitive from Caro- 
lina, sailed from St. Augustine with two privateers and cap- 
tured the Bahama Islands, then held by the Spaniards. 
They have ever since remained under the British flag. 

1783. September 3. Independence of the American col- 
onies — not including Florida, which had taken no part in the 
struggle — acknowledged by Great Britain. Upon this 
Florida was ceded back to Spain, Great Britain retaining the 
Bahamas. English subjects were allowed eighteen months to 
move their effects. The crown transported most of them to 
England, the Bahamas, and Nova Scotia. 

1784. Zespedez, the new Spanish governor, arrived at St. 
Augustine and took possession. 

1795. Spain receded West Florida (Louisiana) to France. 

1811. In view of probable war with England the United 
States Congress resolved to seize Florida in order to prevent 
the English from taking possession. 

1812. March 17. A number of persons styling themselves 
•' patriots " met at St. Mary's and organized the Eepublic of 
Florida. Aided by United States gunboats they took pos- 
session of Fernandina, elected a governor, and shortly after- 



XXviii PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

ward marched upon St. Augustine, but were repulsed. 
The United States soon withdrew its open support, but the 
*' patriots" continued towage war on their own responsi- 
bility, aided by American volunteers. 

1814. August. A British force under Colonel Nichols oc- 
cupied Pensacola with the consent of the Spanish comman- 
dant and hoisted the British flag. 

1814. November 14. Pensacola captured by United 
States forces under General Andrew Jackson. The English, 
presumably with Spanish connivance, built and armed a 
fort at the mouth of the Apalachicola Biver and garrisoned 
it with Indians and negroes. 

1816. August. The fort on the Apalachicola was attacked 
by a combined force of Americans and friendly Indians 
under Colonel Clinch, and captured after one of the maga- 
zines had been exploded by a hot shot. During this time 
Florida was in a state of anarchy, and Indian forays into 
Georgia were frequent. 

1818. April 7. General Jackson, with a force of Ameri- 
cans, severely chastised the Florida Indians, cai)turing a 
formidable fort at St. Marks. 

1818. May 25. Pensacola, which had been reoccupied by 
the Spaniards, surrendered to General Jackson by the Span- 
ish after slight resistance. 

1819. February 22. Florida ceded by Spain to the 
United States. 

1821. February 19. Treaty of cession formally rati- 
fied. 

1821. July 10. The Spanish flag hauled down and the 
United States flag hoisted in its place at St. Augustine. A 
like ceremony took place at Pensacola on July 21st. 

1822. March 30. By act of Congress Florida was made 
a territory of the United States, and organized as such. 

1822. June. The first legislative council met at Pen- 
sacola and created four counties : Escambia, Jackson, St. 
John's, and Duval. 

1823. September 18. Treaty of Fort Moultrie made with 
the Indians, inducing them to confine themselves to a reser- 
vation. 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OP FLORIDA. xxix 

1823. October. Tallahassee selected as the territorial 
capital. 

1823-1835, Settlers began to press into Florida and en- 
croach upon Indian reservations. Treaties were made and 
set aside looking to the removal of the Indians. 

1834. April 12. Proclamation by the President pursuant 
to treaty finally adopted, directing the removal of the Semi- 
noles west of the Mississippi. 

1835. Autumn. Friendly Indians murdered by those 
who were disposed to resist the execution of the President's 
proclamation. 

1835. December 25. The Seminoles made a descent 
upon New Smyrna, burned all the houses, and laid waste 
the plantations. Having been forewarned, the inhabitants 
escaj)ed. 

1835. December 28. Osceola, the Seminole chief, way- 
laid and killed General Thompson, the Indian Commissioner, 
at Fort King, with several companions. On the same day 
the command of Major Dade, U.S.A., 110 strong, was am- 
buscaded and massacred by Indians, under Chief Micanopy, 
near Dragem Junction, Sumter County. Four soldiers 
feigned death and escaped, three of them reaching Tampa 
Bay. Thus began the Seminole War, which lasted seven 
years. 

1835. December 31. United States troops under Gen- 
eral Clinch defeated the Indians near the scene of Dade's 
massacre, of which event they were at the time unaware. 

1836. February 27— March 6. United States troops under 
General Gaines attacked by a large force of Indians while 
attempting to ford the Withlacoochee Eiver. The trooi:>s 
intrenched themselves, and were besieged for several days, 
with constant fighting, until their provisions were nearly ex- 
hausted, when they were relieved by General Clinch. 

1836. June 9. Indians threatened the stockade at Mican- 
opy. United States forces under Major Heileman marched 
out and routed them after a sharp fight. 

1836. August 11. Major Pierce attacked Osceola's band 
of Micosukee Indians near Fort Drane, and routed them. 

1836. November 21. Colonel (late Major) Pierce drove a 



XXX PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

large force of Indians into the Walioo swamp, but no de- 
cisive victory could be gained, owing to the impenetrable 
nature of the morass. 

1837. January 20. A detachment, marching to Jupiter 
Inlet from the head of the St. John's Eiver, found Indians 
strongly posted on the banks of the Locohatchee. After at- 
tacking and dispersing the Indians a stockade (Fort Jupiter) 
W'as constructed near the inlet. 

1837. January 27. Engagement near Hatcheelustee Creek. 
The Indians were routed and driven into Great Cypress Swamp. 

1837. February 8. Intrenched camp on Lake Munroe at- 
tacked at night by a large force of Seminoles. The Indians 
were repulsed with heavy loss. 

1837. March 6. Treaty of capitulation signed by Gen- 
eral Thomas S. Jessup and Seminole chiefs at Fort Dade. 
A large number of Seminoles nominally surrendered at this 
time ; the influence of Osceola and the warlike faction 
proved too strong, and by the end of the summer hostilities 
were resumed. 

1837. October 12. Osceola and seventy- one of his band 
seized by order of General Jessup and confined as prisoners 
of war. 

1837. December 25. Colonel Zachary Taylor, with a 
strong detachment, following the main body of the Seminoles 
southward, overtook them on the shore of Lake Okeechobee. 
After a stubborn fight, lasting several hours, the Indians fled. 
Taylor lost one-tenth of his men in killed and wounded. 
This action terminated concerted resistance on the part of 
the Indians. After this they fought in small parties. 

1838. March 22. Colonel Twiggs captured 513 Indians 
and 165 negroes near Fort Jupiter. 

1839. May. A council with the Seminole chiefs resulted 
in an official declaration of peace. 

1839. July, The Indians, without warning, resumed hos- 
tilities in all parts of the State. Colonel Harney's command 
was nearly exterminated at Charlotte Harbor by an over- 
whelming force of Indians. 

1840. August 7. Government station on Indian Key de- 
stroyed by a war party of Indians. Dr. Perrine killed. 



PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. xxxi 

1840. December. Colonel Harney conducted an expedi- 
tion through the Everglades. During the year the Indians 
adopted the plan of raiding with small parties and the whole 
State was harried by these bands. 

1841. May 31. Colonel, afterward General, William J. 
Worth was given command of the United States forces in 
Florida. He inaugurated a summer campaign which proved 
effective. The Indians were, during the winter of 1841-42, 
either captured, killed, or driven into the most inaccessible 
swamps. 

1842. April 19 — August 14. The Seminole War was de- 
clared at an end. The surviving Indians were removed to 
Arkansas, with the exception of about 360, who were tacitly 
allowed to remain in the Everglades. 

1845. March 3. Florida admitted to the Union as a 
State. 

1861. January 6. United States Arsenal at Chattahoochee 
seized by Florida State troops. 

1861. January 7. Fort Marion, St. Augustine, seized by 
State troops (see p. 151). Fort Clinch, Fernandina, occupied 
the same day. 

1861. January 10. Ordinance of secession adopted by the 
convention assembled at Tallahassee. 

1861. January 10. United States troops transferred from 
Barrancas Barracks to Fort Pickens, Pensacola Harbor. 

1861. January 12. All United States property on the 
mainland, including the Navy Yard and Forts Barrancas and 
McRae, seized by Florida State troops, the commandant 
of the Navy Yard with his men being held as prisoners. 

1861. January 12. Formal demand made for the sur- 
render of Fort Pickens to Florida State troops. 

1861. January 14. Fort Taylor, Key West, garrisoned by 
United States troops. 

1861. January 18. Fort Jefferson, Tortugas, garrisoned 
by United States troops. 

1861. April 12-17. Fort Pickens reinforced. 

1861. August 6. The blockade-runner Alvarado burned 
off Fernandina. 

1861. November 22. Fort Pickens (Pensacola) opens fire 



XXXU PARAGRAPH HISTORY OF FLORIDA. 

upon the Confederate batteries on the mainland. An artil- 
lery duel continued all day. 

1862. January 16. Naval attack upon Cedar Key. 

1862. March 3. Amelia Island evacuated by the Confed- 
erates, and (Marftli 4) occui^ied by Federals. 

1862. March 11. Jacksonville occujDied by Federal forces. 

1862. March 14. Brigadier- General James H. Trapier, 
C.S.A., assigned to the command of Middle and East Florida. 

1862. March 17. Colonel W. S. Dilworth assigned to the 
command of Florida, vice Trapier, transferred. 

1862. March 23. New Smyrna partly destroyed by Fed- 
erals. 

1862. April 8. Brigadier-General Joseph Finegan, 
C.S.A., assigned to the command of Confederate forces in 
Florida. 

1862. April 9. Jacksonville evacuated by the Federal 
troops. 

1862. April 10. Skirmish near Fernandina. 

1862. October 4. Jacksonville again occupied by the 
Federals and shortly afterward abandoned. 

1863. March 10. Jacksonville occupied by Federals. 

1863. March 31. Jacksonville evacuated by Federals. 

1864. February 7. Jacksonville reoccupied by Federals. 

1864. February 20. Battle of Olustee. Defeat of the 
Federals. 

1865. October 28. End of the Civil War. Ordinance of 
secession repealed, after which a civil government under the 
supervision of a military governor (General John Pope) was 
temporarily established. 

1868. July 4. The fourteenth amendment to the Con- 
stitution of the United States having been adopted, with a 
new State constitution, Florida was readmitted to the Union 
and military supervision withdrawn. 

1889. June. Discovery of highly valuable phosphate 
beds at Dunellon, Marion County, followed by similar dis- 
coveries in different parts of the State. 



Alachua County. 

Area, 1,260 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 25' to 29° 55' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 5{V W— Estimated 
pop. (18S9), 32,000.— Pop. (1880), 16,462.— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,193,000. 
— County seat, Gainesville. 

The name is of Indian origin, pronounced al-latch-u-ah, 
with the accent on the second syllable. Probably, however, 
the Indian pronunciation accentuated the last syllable. 
The name was originally given to a remarkable chasm in 
the earth near Gainesville (see map), and is said to mean lit- 
erally " the big jug without a bottom ; " but there is prob- 
ably a conveyed meaning to the Seminole ear implying, " the 
place where the waters go down." The settlement of this 
region by whites was effected by the agents of Fernando de 
la Maza Arredondo, an enterprising Spanish merchant of 
Havana. Messrs. Dexter and Wanton, under his authority 
and led by the accounts given by Indians of the high roll- 
ing lands, rich soil, heavy forests, and abundant lakes and 
streams, penetrated to the vicinity of Gainesville and there 
established a trading-post. The Indian accounts proved 
true, and Arredondo obtained a Spanish grant of about 
289,645 English acres — rather more than one-quarter of the 
23resent county of Alachua. The exact date of the original 
settlement cannot be ascertained, but it was no doubt prior 
to the beginning of the present century, when the whole 
interior of Florida was an unexplored wilderness, and the 
discoverer of a fertile tract had only to ask for a grant in 
order to secure what was then regarded as a clear title from 
the Spanish crown. 

Alachua is classed in the United States Government re- 
ports as in the long-leaf pine region. It contains, however, 
tracts of oak and hickory, hammocks and prairies. The 
eastern j)art of the county, at the point of highest elevation, 
is 250 feet above tide-water ; the western jDart about 70 feet. 
Near the Levy county line is a range of sand-hills, 120 feet 
above tide-water. The Cedar Key Eailroad crosses this 
range between Archer and Bronson. Along the Santa Fe 
and Suwannee Elvers the underlying limestone frequent- 
ly crops out, forming picturesque and i)recipitous banks. 



2 ALACHUA COUNTY. 

crowned with rich hammock. From northwest to south- 
east, crossing the county, is an irregularly detached belt of 
fine hammock lands, the substratum of which is the peculiar 
disintegrated limestone of this region. Oaks, hickory, gum 
trees, bay, magnolia, beech, maple, and other hard woods 
grow here in great luxuriance, although along this belt the 
rock is but thinly covered with soil. The total area of ham- 
mock land is about 2,440 acres. It is of two grades, *' black 
hammock," with a sandy loam soil, brown or blackish in 
color, and nearly a foot deep ; and " gray hammock," with 
a lighter soil and higher percentage of sand, underlaid with 
sand or sand-rock. 

The Suwannee River and its tributary the Santa Fe define 
the western and northern boundaries of the county. The 
first named is navigable for steamers throughout this section 
of its course, and the second as far as Fort White, about eight 
miles above the confluence of the two streams. In the west- 
ern part of the county are countless small lakes and ponds, 
most of them deep and well supplied with fish. They are 
connected by natural water-courses, sometimes on the sur- 
face, sometimes subterranean, and curious natural wells and 
** sinks "are of frequent occurrence. These wells are usu- 
ally perpendicular shafts, three or four feet in diameter, de- 
scending through solid limestone rock to a depth of thirty 
or forty feet. Water strongly impregnated with lime is 
found in most of them, but some are dry and may be ex- 
plored. 

This part of the county is sparsely settled as compared 
with the eastern, especially the southeastern section. This, 
however, renders it the more attractive for sportsmen and 
camj^ers. Large game has been hunted off in the more 
thickly settled portions of the county, but deer and turkey 
are to be found within easy driving distance of almost any 
of the towns west of Gainesville, and the ordinary game 
birds are reasonably abundant everywhere. 

Large lakes are found in the eastern and especially in the 
southeastern portion of the county. Of these South Pond 
and Santa FC Lake are joined by a canal, and are navigable 
for launches and small steamboats. Orange Lake, which 



4: ALACHUA COUNTY. 

bounds the county at its southeastern corner, is an irregular 
body of water, the largest in the county, but shallow and 
overgrown with aquatic vegetation. In the season these 
shallow lakes are frequented by water-fowl. 

The remarkably open character of the woods at once 
impresses the observant traveller. The scrub palmetto is 
wholly absent over large tracts, and one may ride or drive 
comfortably for miles through a virgin forest without a sign 
of a wagon road or of a human habitation. 

Among the crops that are successfully cultivated in Alachua 
are artichokes, beans, beets, cabbages, celery, cucumbers, 
egg-plant, lettuce, okra, onions, i3arsnips, peas, potatoes 
(Irish and sweet), pumpkins, radishes, squashes, tomatoes, 
turnips, arrow-root, barley, castor beans, cassava, chiifas, 
koonti, corn, cotton, pea-nuts, melons, millet, oats, rice, lye, 
sorghum, sugar-cane, tobacco, and wheat. Oranges aro 
grown successfully whenever facilities for transportation 
render it j)ossible to market the crop to advantage. Peaches 
of the Pientau and other early varieties are cultivated ; the 
Leconte pear is a profitable croi3, and strawberries in very 
large quantities are shipped to the North during January, 
February, and March. 

The Florida Southern Eailway (J., T. & K. "W. system) en- 
ters the county from the westward, Palatka being the nearest 
station of importance. The stations next and within the 
county are : 



Dlst. fr. 
Palatka. 



2T Cones Crossing {PutnuTn Co.) 45 

29 Colgrove 43 E 

31 Hawthorne ' 41 a 



Diet, f • 
Ocala. 



32. . . .Constantine's Mill 40 

35. . . Grove Park 3T 

V 40....Roclielle''* 32 

W 45 Micanopy Jc 27 

47 Evinston (Levy Co.) 24 

» Crosses F. C. &. P. Ry. (see p. 5). 

2 Gainesville Br. (see below). For continuation of this line to Ocala, Lees- 
burg, etc., see p. 63. 

Gainesville Branch (J., T. & K. W. system) : 

I 37....Eochelle> 8 E 

Dist.fr. I 41.... Sink 4 a D'st. fr. 

Palatka. V 42 .... Oliver Park 3 I Gainesville. 

W 45 Gainesville '^ | 

' Connects with main line (see above). 

3 Connects with S. F. & W. Ry. (see p. 5), and Cedar Key Division F. C. & 
P. (see p. 5). 



ALACHUA COUNTY, 



The main line of the Florida Central & Peninsula Eailway 
enters the county from the northeast after crossing Santa 
Fe Eiver. The stations next and within the county are : 



DIst. fr. 
Jackson- 
ville. 



79 Hampton {Bradford Co.) 51 

85. . . .Waldo ' 45 

90 Orange Heights 40 

94. . . .Campville . . 36 

99. . . .Hawthorne 2 31 

106 Lochloosa 24 

109. . . .Island Grove .21 

112....Citra {Levy Co.) 18 



Dist. fr. 
Ocala. 



' Cedar Key Branch, F. C. & P. (see below). 
' Crosses Gainesville Branch, J., T. & K. W. 
Ocala, see p. 63 ; to Jacksonville, p. 9. 



For continuation of this line to 



Cedar Key Division, F, C. & P., crosses the county south- 
westerly from Waldo, where it leaves the main line. 



Dist. fr, 
Waldo. 



0.... Waldo TO 

6 ...Fairbanks 64 NE 

14 Gainesville' 56 /v 

13. ..Hammock Ridge. 52 

20. . . Arredondo 50 

21 Kanapaha 49 

24. . . .Palmer 46 



SW 29. 
38. 



..Archer 41 

.Bronson {Levy Co.) 32 



D:st. 

fr. Cedar 

Key. 



' Connects with Gainesville Branch, J., T. & K. W. (see p. 4), and with 
Gainesville Division, S. F. & W. (see below). For continuation southwest to 
Cedar Key, see p. 55 ; northeast to Jacksonville, Fernandina, etc., see p. 9. 



The GaiDesville Division, S. F. & W. Ey., runs northeast 
from Gainesville tc Lake City Junction, Columbia County. 

The stations are : 

©....Gainesville 1 36 

D-Bt fr I 11. ...Hague 25 SE j... . 

Gainei' 16. ...Newnansville 20 a LakeCitV 

Gaines- y 23 .... High Springs 13 I ^ake ^1^7 

vine. -^y^ 33.... Fort White 3 | '^^• 

36 Lake City Jc. ( Columbia Co.)... . 

' For continuation northwest, see p. 17. For connections at Gainesville, see 
map. 



BAKER COUNTY 



Baker County. 

Area, 500>q. m.— Lat. 3C° 10'' to 30^ 23' N.— Long. 82" to 82° 3(y W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 4,000.— Registered vote (1889), 651.— Pop. (1880), 2,312.— Assessed 
valuation (1888), $544,308.— County seat, McClenny. 

The northern part of this county is within the limits of 

the great Okeef enokee Swamp, which extends to the north- 



BAKER COUNTY 

SCALE OF MILES 




ward across the Georgia State line. This portion of the 
county is hardly habitable, but is rich in standing timber 
which is rafted down the tributaries of the St. Mary's River 



At 



BAKER COUNTY— BRADFORD COUNTY. 7 

to tide-water and a market, or else finds its way to the Florida 
Central & Peninsula Eailway Company's stations in the 
southern tier of townships. The southern part of the county 
is moderately high pine land, with sandy soil. The princi- 
pal shipments are turpentine and lumber, with an increas- 
ing quantity of peaches and vegetables. 

Near the southwestern corner of the county there took 
place the most considerable engagement that occurred 
within the State during the Civil War. 

The Western Division of the Florida Central & Penin- 
sula Railway crosses east and west near the southern border. 
The stations next to and within the county are : 

19.,.. Baldwin (Dura? Co.) 186 E 



Dist. 

fr. Jackson- 

viUe. 



28....McClenny 177 a 

30. . . .Glen St. Mary 175 

37 Sanderson 168 

39. . . .Pendleton 166 

V 47....0l8Utee 158 

W 52. . . .Mt. Carrie (Columbia Co.) 153 



Dist. fr. 
River Jc. 



Bradford County. 

Area, 550 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 10' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 40^ W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 8,000.— Registered vote (1889), 1,370.— Pop. (1,880), 6,167.— Highest 
elevation, 210 ft. (Trail Ridge).— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,124,763.— County 
seat, Starke. 

Bradford County is classified in the long-leaf pine region. 
The best land is gently rolling, with sandy loam, well suited 
for the cultivation of cotton, corn, vegetables, fruits, and 
rice. The most fertile land is found along the lakes and 
water-courses — mainly in the southern and eastern sections. 
Second class is for the most part a yellow sandy loam, covered 
with pine forests. It is capable, however, of producing fair 
crops of oats, rye, and barley. The third-class land is sandy 
and low, covered with scrub palmetto and underlaid with 
a compact "hard pan." Cypress ponds abound in the east- 
ern and northeastern sections, and, besides their timber, af- 
ford valuable beds of muck, readily available for fertilizing 
purposes. 

Swift's Creek, Olustee Creek, New River, and Samson 
Eiver are tributaries of the Santa Fe, which in turn flows 
tln-ough the Suwannee to the Gulf of Mexico. These streams 



8 



BRADFORD COUNTY. 



are all available for rafting pui'poses, and many of them 
afford good mill-sites. The more considerable lakes are 
South Prong Pond, one of the sources of Olustee Creek (200 
acres) ; SAvift Creek Pond (700 acres), Lake Butler (700 
acres), Samson Lake (2,200 acres), Crosby Lake (800 acres), 




BRADFORD COUNTY 

SCALE OF MILES 



Ilowell Lake (800 acres). At the southeastern comer, be- 
tween Bradford and Alachua Counties is Santa Fe Lake, the 
source of the river of that name, 137 feet above the sea. It 
is the largest body of water adjacent to the county, some 
eight miles long with its connections, and aflfording water 
transportation to Waldo, a railroad station near the head of 
the South Pond. 
•^ The main line of the Florida Central & Peninsula Railway 



BRADFORD COUNTY— BREVARD COUNTY. 9 

crosses N.N.E. and S.S.W. in the eastern tier of town- 
ships. The stations next to and within the county are : 

61. , . .Eghland {Clay Co.) 69 

66. . . .Lawtey 64 NNE 

Dist.fr. 67>6..Burrin. 63 a 

Jack- 71 Temple 58 

sonville. V 73 Starke 57 

SSW 79. . . Hampton 51 

85 Waldo {Alachua Co.) 45 

For continuation of this line to Jacksonville, see p. 16 ; to Cedar Key, see 
p. 5. 



Dist. fr. 
Ocala. 



Brevard County. 

Area, 3,000 sq. m.— Lat. 27° 10^ to 28° 50^ N.— Long. 80° lO' to 81° W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 8,000.— Pop. (1880), 1,478.— Assesssed valuation (1888), $1,007,- 
474. — County seat, Titusville. 

The present county was formed from St. Lucie County, in 
January, 1855. The county seat was successively at Fort 
Pierce or Susannah (1855 to 1864), Bassville (1864 to 1873), 
Lakeville (1873 to 1879), and finally at Titus\'ille, or, as it was 
formerly known, Sandy Point. In 1879 the southern part 
of Volusia County was added to Brevard, so that the county 
now includes 108 miles of Atlantic Sea-coast, practically em- 
bracing the whole of the Indian River with its dependencies, 
and nearly covering two degrees of latitude. The coast-line 
forms the eastern boundary of this tract, its general trend 
being N.N.E. by S.S.E. The western boundary is defined 
for about twenty miles by the St. John's River, and then 
follows a township meridian southward to Lake Okeechobee, 
the great inland sea of Central Florida. The greatest width 
is on the southern boundary, about forty-two miles, marked 
by a township line from Okeechobee to the mouth of the St. 
Lucie River. 

Fronting the ocean is a strip of beach, broken by occa- 
sional inlets, and usually varying in width from a few hun- 
dred yards to a mile. This is covered for the most part with 
a heavy growth of timber, and rarely rises to a height of 
more than fifteen or twenty feet above high-water mark. West 
of this is Indian River, a narrow strait or lagoon, averaging 
about a mile in width, but spreading out to some six miles 



10 BREVARD COUNTY. 

at the widest, and contracting to barely a hundred feet at the 
Narrows. Near the head of the river are large islands or 
peninsulas, and farther south, at the Jupiter and St. Lucie 
Narrows, are innumerable small islands separated bj channels 
often not more than one hundred feet wide, and covered with 
an almost impenetrable growth of mangroves and other trop- 
ical vegetation. Indian Biver is, in fact, not a river as the 
term is ordinarily understood. It is a great lagoon fed by 
countless fresh-water streams, but open to the ocean through 
several considerable inlets, in which the salt water ebbs and 
flows. The water is partly salt and partly fresh, according 
to the state of the tide, or the distance from an inlet, or from 
fresh-water rivers and springs. The depth averages twelve 
feet in the channel, and there are no natural obstacles of a 
dangerous character from one end of the river to the other. 
The mainland or west shore of the Indian Eiver varies con- 
siderably in height, and in the character of its soil, but it 
offers an almost unbroken succession of desirable building 
sites, and unsurpassed lands for the cultivation of citrus- 
fruits and pineapples. 

This fertile belt is comparatively narrow. To the west- 
ward stretches a wilderness, as yet hardly explored, save by 
the hunter and surveyor, and still haunted by the large game 
of Florida — bears, panthers, wild cats, and deer ; while turkies 
and the lesser varieties of wild-fowl are found in abundance. 
Much of this wild region is swampy, and there are many 
shallow lakes navigable for canoes. 

There is every reason to believe that this wilderness was 
once a lagoon and that in the course of time — a few thou- 
sand years more or less — the natural processes of geological 
upheaval and accretion will convert Indian Kiver, first into 
a morass, and then into dry land, while perhaps another 
beach and another river will form to seaward. 

The shores of Indian River, then, are substantially the 
only inhabited portion of Brevard County. For a more de- 
tailed description, the reader is referred to Routes 70 to 74. 

It remains to describe in general terms the climate of this 
coast, and this is best done by reference to the reports of the 
United States Signal Service. 



BREVAKD COUNTY 







BREVARD COUNTY— CALHOUN COUNTY. H 

The Indian Kiver Division of the Jacksonville, Tampa, 
& Key West system at present ends at Titusville, near the 
northern boundary. The stations next to and within the 
county are : 

I 23....Maytown 18 -f^ 

Dist.fr. 31 Aurantia 10 7* T«of fr 

Enterprise A 35. .-..Minis 6 -^ TitnisVille 

Jc. 4 37.... La Grange 4 Utusville. 



S 



41 ... . TitusvlUe 



For continuation of this line north and south from Enterprise Junction, see 
pp. 70, 97. For steamboat routes from Titusville, see Eoute 70. 



Calhoun County. 

Area, 1,160 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 30^ N.— Long. 85° to 85° 40' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 4,000.— Pop. (1880), l,580.~Asseesed valuation, $352,862.— 
County seat, Blountstown. 

This county was organized with its present boundaries in 
1874. It was named after John 0. Calhoun, a prominent 
Southern statesman, who died in 1850. The land is sandy, 
with clay subsoil and underlying limestone ; for the most part 
heavily timbered and within easy reach of water transporta- 
tion. The Apalachicola River, navigable for steamers, forms 
the eastern boundary, and nearly parallel to it are the Chi- 
pola River and Brothers River, both of them navigable ex- 
cept during low water. The bottom-lands along the rivers, 
especially the Apalachicola, are rich alluvial deposits of in- 
exhaustible fertility, but subject, of course, to periodical 
overflow. Springs of excellent water abound throughout 
the county, and the pine lands are for the most part of good 
quality. 

West of the Apalachicola the Chipola River widens into 
Dead Lakes, sunken areas with dead cypress-trees standing 
or lying in water ten to twenty feet deep. It is thought that 
the subsidence of the lake bottoms is of comparatively recent 
occurrence. This region can only be penetrated in boats, but 
it offers great attractions and novel experiences to sportsmen 
who are not afraid of hard work. 

St. Joseph's Bay is a fine body of navigable water with 
shores well adapted for camping. 



CALHOUN COUNTY 




CITRUS COUNTY. 



13 



Citrus County. . 

Area, TOO sq. m.— Lat. 23° 40' to 23° 10^ N.— Long. 82° 10^ to 82" 50' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 1,2T5.— Elevation at Mt. Lee, 214 ft.— Assessed valuation 
(1888), $874,752.— County seat, Mannfield. 

This county -^^as organized, June 2, 1887, prior to wliicli 
date it was included in Hernando County. It borders upon 
tlie Gulf of Mexico, and is drained Ly the Withlacoocheo 
Eiver, a navigable stream forming its northern and eastern 




^A 



boundaries. The face of the country is level near the coast, 
covered with heavy hammock growth, and bearing a rich soil 
of varying depth underlaid with coraline and limestone rock 
rich in phosphates. Farther inland are rolling pine lands 
rising to a considerable height. The climate is tempered by 
the Gulf breezes, and northern and easterly winds are of very 
rare occurrence. Several of the wonderful springs peculiar 
to Florida are found within the county. The fishing and 



14 CITRUS COUNTY— CLAY COUNTY. 

Imnting are exceptionally fine. Along the coast are numer- 
ous shell-mounds and islands, affording excellent building 
sites. The Homosassa River and its vicinity offer especial 
attractions to settlers, tourists, and sportsmen. 

The Gulf Coast is bordered by countless islands, or keys, of 
limestone, some of them covered with mangroves, others 
nearly barren. Navigation is very dangerous owing to reefs, 
shoals, and oyster-beds that extend in some cases miles from 
the coast. There are, however, two harbors accessible for 
vessels drawing not more than four feet, at Crystal Eiver, 
and Homosassa. 

Citrus is a rich orange country, and is the natural home 
of the Homosassa orange, which has, perhaps, the longest 
established reputation of any of the Florida varieties, and, it 
is said, has taken more prizes than any other. 

The Silver Springs, Ocala, and Gulf Railroad crosses the 
county from Dunellou, on the Withlacoochee River, to Homo- 
sassa, near the Gulf Coast. The stations next to and within 
the county are : 



Dist. fr. 
Ocala. 



26 Dunellon {Mari<m Co.) 22 

34 Citronelle 14 

38.... Park Place 10 

39. ...Crystal 9 

48 Homosassa 



Dist. fr. 
HomosasBa. 



For continuation of this line to Ocala, see p. 64. 



Clay County. 

Area, 640 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 41' to 30' 6' N.— Long. 81° 35' to 82° 1' W.— 
Estimated pop, (1889), 2,838.— Pop. (1880), 2,838.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,200,000.— Elevation on Trail Kidge, 150 feet.— County seat, Green Cove 
Spring. 

Clay County was organized in 1856, from Duval County, 
and named after the Hon. Henry Clay, of Kentucky, United 
States Senator for many ^^ears, and a candidate for the Presi- 
dency in 1824 and 1844. The St. John's River, separating 
Clay County from St. John's County on the east, is here a 
noble stream varying from one mile to three miles in widtk. 
Black Creek, one of its tributaries, is navigable for steamers 
as far as Middleburg, where two smaller branches unite to 
form the main stream. These branches find their source re- 
spectively in the northern and southern sections of the coun- 



CLAY COUNTY. 



15 



ty. The South Fork again subdivides into Green's Creek 
and Ates Creek, which drain the lake region of the county. 
The land is in the main moderately high pine, interspersed 
with hammock and scrub oak. The best i)lantations lie 
along the St. John's Eiver, where are many flourishing orange- 




groves. Through this portion of the county runs the main 
line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway, af- 
fording direct and easy communication with all points north 
and south. The lake region is largely unoccupied as yet, 
but has abundant natural attractions for the sportsman as 
well as for the permanent settler. 



16 



CLAY COUNTY— COLUMBIA COUNTY. 



The J., T. & K. W. By. follows the west bank of the St. 
John's River. The stations within and near the county are : 





11. 




14 




18. 




20. 


Dist. 


24. 


fr. Jackson- 


23. 


ville. 


29. 




30. 


V 


1 33. 


J 


5 



.Reed's {Duval Co.) 114 

.Orange Park Ill 

.Peoria 107 

.Black Creek • 105 

.Fleming 101 

.Magnolia 97 

.Green Cove Spring 96 

. . . Melrose Crossing * 95 



Dist. fr. 

Port 
Tampa. 



, . . .WaUkill 91 

, . . .West Tocoi 84 

40 Bostwick {Putnam Co.) 79 

' Branch to Florence Mills and Sharon, 9 m. southwest. For continuation cf 
main line north, see p. 25 ; south, see p. 82. 

The main line of the F. C. & P. Ey. crosses the north- 
western corner of the county. Stations adjacent to and 
within the county are : 



Diet. 

fr. Fernan- 

dina. 



55., 


. Maxville {Duval Co.) 


121 


N 


56 . 


..Wilby 

. .Highland 


122 


A Dist. fr. 


V 61.. 


117 


Ocala. 


S 66.. 


. .Lawtey {Bradford Co.) 


312 





For continuation of this line to Ocala, see p. 9 ; Cedar Key, see p. 7 ; Feman- 
dina and Jacksonville, see pp. 25 and 67. 

The Western Eailway of Florida runs to Belmore, 14 miles 
southwest of Green Cove Spring. The stations are : 



Dist. fr. 
Green Cove. 



V 
SW 



Green Cove Spring 14 

3. . . .Clinch's 11 

6. . . . Willkinson 8 

7. . . .Novella 7 

10. . . . Sharon 4 

11. . . . West Sharon 3 

14 Belmore 



NE 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Belmore. 



Columbia County. 



Area, 860 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 48' to 30° 33' N.— Long. 82» 27' to 82° 50' W.— Es- 
timated pop. (1889), 14,000.— Pop. (1880), 9,589.— Assessed valuation (1838), 
$1,600,463.— Highest elevation, 200 ft. (Lake City).— County seat, Lake City. 



Columbia is one of the northern tier of counties touching 
the Georgia line, and including a wide tract of unsettled flat 
I)ine land in its northern half. The southern half is mod- 
erately high x^ine land, with extensive tracts of good ara- 
ble soil, underlaid in the western portion by soft sandstone, 
and elsewhere by clay, which has been used, since 1847, for 
brick. The long staple Sea Island cotton thrives in this 



18 COLUMBIA COUNTY. 

county, and large warehouses have been established at Lake 
City and elsewhere. Good water is found in natural and 
artificial wells and streams all over the county, save in 
the southwestern portion, where limestone prevails, and, of 
course, affects the water. 

The line of the Florida Central & Peninsula Railway 
crosses the central portion of the county, connecting to the 
eastward and westward with Jacksonville, Tallahassee, and 
Pensacola. From Lake City to Lake City Junction is a di- 
vision of the Savannah, Florida & Western Railway, leading 
to Gainesville and the Suwannee River at New Branford. 
Santa Fe River, separating the county from Alachua on the 
south, is navigable for steamers as far as Fort White, and 
is available for small boats, and for log-rafting to its junc- 
tion with Olustee Creek. Three of the largest creeks in the 
county sink into the ground, to reappear, probably, in some 
of the numerous springs along the principal water-courses. 

The exceptional healthfulness of the central region has 
been recognized by the Trustees of the State Agricultural 
College, who, after due deliberation, selected Lake City as 
the site of the institution. 

The chief articles of export are Sea Island cotton, corn, 
and tobacco, cotton being the largest and most profitable 
crop. 

The Western Division of the F. C. & P. Ry. crosses the 

county from east to west, with stations, as follows, within 

and adjacent to the boundaries : 

I 47 ... .Olustee {Baker Co.) 160 ^ 

Dist. 52.... Mt. Carrie 155 ^ w^t fr 

fr.Jackson- i 59 .... Lake City ' 148 A ^^^^ j^ 

viUe. TTT 65 Ogden 142 

^ 71 ... . Welborn (Suwannee Co.) 136 ' 

1 CoBiiects with Lake City Division. Waycross Short Line, Lake City to 
Lake City Junction, 19 m. ; Fort White, 22 m., and Gainesville, Alachua County. 
T^< .- -rriinuation to River Junction, see p. 91 ; to Jacksonville, see p. '^ 



DADE COUNTY. . 19 

Dade County. 

Area, 7,200 sq. m.— Lat. 25° 10' to 26° 10' N.— Long. 80° to 80° 55' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 600.— Pop. (1880), 25T.— County seat, Juno. 

Dade County is, at this writing, in the main inaccessible 
to the ordinary tourist, and unopened to the average settler. 
Communication by rail has been established with Lake 
Worth, near the northern boundary, but the only means of 
reaching Biscayne Bay, its southernmost habitable district, 
is by way of the weekly mail-packets — ordinary coasting 
schooners from Key "West. The seventy miles of beach be- 
tween Lake Worth Inlet and Cape Florida are accessible 
only by means of sea-going craft, or on foot, or in canoes 
along the tortuous water-ways that connect the various 
rivers and inlets. The map indicates the scant line of settle- 
ments along the coast, all of them within sound of the surf. 
The rest of the wide domain is unsurveyed, is inhabited only 
by the remnant of the Seminole Indians, and is visited only 
by the more enterprising and adventurous of hunters and 
cowboys. Within the bounds of the county lies the major 
part of the great inland fresh-water lake Okeechobee. To 
the southward and eastward stretch the pathless Everglades, 
separated from the sea only by a comparatively narrow ridge 
of coralline rock. From the southern reaches of Indian 
Eiver and from Lake Worth something of an export trade 
has opened in pineapples, cocoanuts, tomatoes, fish, and 
turtles. This goes northward by way of the Jupiter & 
Lake Worth Railway and the Indian Eiver steamers. The 
settlements along Biscayne Bay send similar products and 
a considerable amount of koonti-root starch by sea to Key 
West. 

To the sportsman the inland and coastwise waters of Dade 
County offer endless attractions, which are described more 
in detail under their appropriate local divisions. See Jupiter 
Inlet and Vicinity, Lake Worth, Hillsborough Eiver, New 
Eiver, Boca Eatones, Biscayne Bay, Lake Okeechobee, The 
Everglades, etc. 

The only railway in Dade County, and the southernmost 
in the United States, is the narrow-gauge line, seven miles 



I>ADE CO. 

SCALE OF MILES 

15 20 




-hristmas Pt. 
;■ RHODES ^5 

.^{vy^PACO ALTO , 

A"v; KEYS r^ />■ 



DADE COUNTY— DE SOTO COUNTY. 21 

long, from Jupiter Inlet to the head of Lake Worth, see 
Koute 75. It belongs to the Jacksonville, Tampa, & Key 
West system, and runs in connection with their boats on the 
Indian River. This Company is extending its surveys to the 
southward, and constructing a wagon-road from Lake Worth 
to Biscayne Bay. 



De Soto County. 

Area, 3,800 sq. m.— Lat. 26° 45' to 27° 38' N.— Long. 80° 50' to 82° 20' W.— Es- 
tlmatsd pop. (1889), 7,000.— Assessed valuation, $1,983,640.— County seat, Ar- 
cadia. 

This county was organized in 1887, as the result of a sub- 
division of Manatee County, and was appropriately named 
after the great Spanish navigator, Hernando De Soto. 

It is still in the main a wilderness, some sixty miles wide, 
extending from the Kissimmee River and Lake Okeechobee 
on the east to the Gulf of Mexico on the west. A narrow 
chain of settlements skirts the navigable waters and the line 
of the Florida Southern Railway, but a few miles on either 
side of these the pine forests are unbroken until they disap- 
l^ear in the prairies and saw-grass bordering the great inland 
lakes. And yet this region represents large wealth, for here 
begins the great cattle range of Southwestern Florida, ex- 
tending from Peace River on the northwestern side of the 
county to the borders of the Everglades. This whole region 
is flat or gently rolling pine land, interspersed with ham- 
mock, and often opening into prairies and savannas. Except- 
ing in the dense hammock, the whole is carpeted with grass, 
affording nutritious food for cattle the year round, while no 
shelter whatever is required for the animals. 

The county is bisected by the twenty-seventh parallel of 
north latitude, about two-thirds of its area lying to the north- 
ward of that line. With the contiguous county of Lee it con- 
tains by far the largest tract of naturally valuable land in 
South Florida. Owing to its low latitude, tropical fruit cult- 
ure and truck farming for early vegetables are among its 
chief industries. 

The Florida Southern Railway crosses the county from 



DE SOTO COUNTY— DUVAL COUNTY. 23 

northeast to southwest, having its terminus at Punta Gorcla, 
near the head of Charlotte Harbor, where it connects with the 
Morgan Line of steamers for New Orleans, and with coast- 
wise craft plying to the southward. Charlotte Harbor and 
its adjacent waters afford the best tarpon fishing on the Gulf 
Coast (see Route 81), and all the game fish of this region 
abound in the rivers and bays. Deer and turkeys are fre- 
quently killed within five miles of the railroad, but for the 
certainty of good sport the hunter must go farther afield, as 
the large game is generally hunted off in the vicinity of the 
permanent settlements. 



Buval County. 

Area, 900 sq. m.— Lat. 80° 35'' to 30° 10^ N.— Long. 81° 20' to S2° 5'' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 35,000.— Pop. (1880), 19,431.— Assessed Taluation (1888), 
$9,540,619. — County seat, Jacksonville. 

Duval was one of the original counties into which the 
territory of Florida was divided in accordance with an act of 
Congress, on the second Monday of June, 1822, nearly a year 
after the United States formally acquired possession. A glance 
at the map will show the peculiar commercial advantages 
that it has always held. Ever since the ships of the French 
Huguenot, Jean Eibaut, anchored inside the bar at the 
mouth of the St. John's, and named it the Eiver of May, 
this noble stream has been the natural avenue of travel and 
trade to and from the interior of the peninsula. Along its 
banks the first settlements were formed and railroads fol, 
lowed the settlements. All traffic between the Atlantic 
States lying to the northward and the Floridian peninsula 
l^asses almost of necessity either through the St. John's 
Eiver or near the point where the course of the stream 
changes from north to east. 

The county lies on both sides of the river to a point about 
twenty-five miles from the sea-coast. It was named after the 
Hon. William P. Duval first territorial governor of Florida. 

The first white settlement was made by the French in 
1564, at St. John's Bluff, a high promontory on the south bank 
of the liver about three miles from its mouth (see p. 118). 



24 



DUVAL COUNTY. 



This was merely a military post. The first civil settlement 
is believed to have been made in 1812, at the head of the old 
Eling's road from St. Augustine, on the south bank of the 




river opposite the present site of Jacksonville. The settler, 
Lewis Z. Hogan, moved across the river in 1816, and thus 
was formed the nucleus of the leading commercial* city of 



DUVAL COUNTY. 25 

Florida. Long before this, however, the banks of the river 
were inhabited by Indian tribes, as is evident from the 
countless shell mounds that exist on both sides of the stream, 
often containing rude pottery, stone implements and the like, 
mingled with bones of men and animals in perplexing and 
suggestive confusion. 

The sea-coast line is about twenty miles in extent measuring 
southward from the mouth of Nassau River. The greater 
part of it is fine hard beach, suitable for driving and bathing 
and usually backed by sand ridges or hammocks available 
for building-sites. 

All the great railway lines of Florida centre in Jackson- 
ville. The main line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key 
West System runs south to Tampa, Punta Gorda, and Titus- 
ville. Stations within the county and next to the southern 
boundary are : 





0. 


Diet. fr. 


- 4. 


Jackson- 


X 11. 

^ 14. 


ville. 



. . Jacksonville 125 

.Edgewood 121 

, .Black Point 116 

.Reed's •. ... .114 

, . Orange Park {Clay Co.) Ill 



N 

A Dist. fr. 

1 Sanford. 



The Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Halifax Biver Eailway 
(J., T. & K. W. System) crosses the St. John's River on a 
steel drawbridge, just above the city. Stations within the 
county and next beyond are : 

Jacksonville 37 

1 S. Jacksonville 36 NW 

3 . . . . Phillips 34 ^ 

5 . . . Bowden , 32 

9 Summerville 28 

10. . . .Nesbit .2T 

11 Eaton 26 

V 14 Sweetwater 23 

SE 16. ...Bayard 21 

17 ... . Register {St. John's Co.) 20 

For connections at St. Augustine, see p. 133, 

The Plant System, Savannah, Florida & Western Railway, 
Waycross short line. From foot of Bridge Street. Stations 
within and near Duval County are : 



Dist. fr. 
Jackson- 
ville. 



Dist. 
fr. St. Au- 
gustine. 



Dist. fr. 


1 


. 


. Jacksonville 1 


5 1 Callahan. 


Jackson- 
ville. 


SB 


12.. 
20.. 


. . Dinsmore 

..Callahan^ 



* For connections, see p. 103. 

a Connects with F. C. & P. Ry., see p. 67. 



2G 



DUVAL COUNTY. 



The Florida Central & Peninsula Eailroad — Jacksonville 
Branch. Between Jacksonville and Fernandina. From foot 
of Hogan Street. Stations are : 







0. 






1. 


DIst. 




5. 


ir. Jackson- 




15. 


YiUe. 


V 26. 




1 


^I 2T. 



. . Jacksonville^ 37 

, . Waycross Jc 36 

, . Jacksonville Jc 32 

.Duval 22 

.Hart's Ed. Jc.2 ii 

.Hart's Road 10 

37. . . .Fernandina^ 



D:st. fr. 
Fernandina. 



* For connections, see p. 103. 

2 Connects with Southern Div. F, C. A P., see p. 67. 

3 Connects with Mallory Line steamers for New York (see p. 127) ; and coast- 
wise steamers for Georgia ports. 

The Jacksonville & Atlantic Bailroad has its station in 
South Jacksonville. Ferry from foot of Market Street. The 
stations are : 



Dist. fr. 

Jackson- 
ville. 



Jacksonville 17.3 

1 S. Jacksonville' 16.3 

2.8....St. Nichola 14.5 

6 ....Pottsburg 11.3 

14.6.... San Pablo 2.7 

17.3. . . Pablo Beach 

1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. System. 



W 

A 



Dlst. fr. 
Pablo 
Beach. 



The Jacksonville, May port & Pablo Bail way & Navigation 
Co. has its station at Arlington, on the south bank of the St. 
John's, three miles by ferry, foot of Newnan Street. The 
stations are : 







0. 






3. 






4. 






7. 






8. 






9. 


Dist. fr. 




10. 


Jackson- 




11. 


ville. 




14. 
15. 
16. 

18. 




V 19 




E 19^ 






20. 



. . . Jacksonville 20 

. . . Arlington 17 

. . . Egleston 16 

. . Verona 13 

. .Cohassett 12 

. . McCormick 11 

. .Mill Cove 10 

, . .Pine Grove 9 

. .Idlewild 6 

. . Greenfield 5 

. .Bumside Beach 4 

. . .The Jetties 2 

. . Jetty Cottage 1 

. .Light House k 

. .Mayport 



W 

A 



Dist. fr. 

Mayport. 



ESCAMBIA COUNTY. 27 



Escambia County. 

Area, 720 sq. m.— Lat. 31° to 30° W N.— Long. 87° 40' to 87° 50' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 25,000.— Pop. (1880), 12,156,— Assessed valuation (1888), $3,- 
649,758. — County seat, Pensacola. 

The magnificent bay where Pensacola now stands was dis- 
covered by Pamphilo de Narvaez, who landed there, accord- 
ing to the English historian Jeffries, in 1528. A permanent 
settlement was made in 1696, by the Spaniards under Don 
Andre d'Arreola, on the present site of Fort Barrancas, and 
since that time, although the location of the town was re- 
peatedly shifted, and it has been held successively by 
French, English, and Americans, it has never been aban- 
doned by Europeans. 

Escambia is the westernmost county of Florida, terminat- 
ing the Gulf range of counties, and separated from Alabama 
on the west by the Perdido River, and on the north by the 
arbitrary interstate line. Its soil is sand underlaid with 
clay, and its agricultural capabilities are rapidly developing. 
Its main export, however, is lumber, since Pensacola is the 
shipping-point for a vast region of heavily wooded land 
lying to the northward, and penetrated by streams, down 
which the logs are floated to tide-water. 

Much of the land in the county is high and rolling, with 
hardwood hammocks along the watercourses. 

To hunters, fishermen, and yachtsmen, the coasts and 
waterways of Escambia County offer great attractions. The 
extensive land-locked sounds and bays afford safe anchorage 
in all weathers, and are easy of access from sea at all stages 
of the tide. The shores are almost everywhere available for 
camping purposes, and game abounds, though reckless and 
indiscriminate shooting has made it very wild. 

The Pensacola & Atlantic Division of the Louisville & 
Nashville Railroad enters the county from Santa Rosa 
County on the east, crossing Escambia Bay on a long 
trestle. The stations are : 

coia. j^j, 9.... Escambia 152 '^^- 



ESCAMBIA COUNTY— FRANKLIN COUNTY. 29 

The Pensacola & Atlantic Division, Louisville & Nash- 
ville Eailroacl, enters Escambia from Alabama on the north. 
Stations near and within the county are : 

0. . . .Flomatoii i 44 

5. . . .Bluff Springs 39 N 

12 ... . McDavid 32 a 

20....Molino 24 

24. . . . Quintette 20 

28 Cantonment^ 16 

V 32. . . .Gonzalez 12 

S 37. . . .Olive 7 

44 Pensacola 

^ Connects with lines to New Orleans, Montgomery, and Selma. 
2 Branch to Muscogee, five miles west. 

The Pensacola & Perdido Railroad connects Pensacola with 
Mill view, six miles west, on Perdido Bav. 



Dist. f r, 
riomaton. 



D:st. fr. 
Ponsacola. 



Franklin County. 

Area, 500 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 5' N.— Long. 84° 30' to 85° 15' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 4,000.— Pop. (1880), 1,791.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$495,427. — County seat, Apalachicola. 

Nearly the whole of this county was originally included in 
what was known as the Forbes Purchase, the result of 
negotiations made with the Indians by an English firm, 
Forbes & Co., in 1819. This was just prior to the transfer 
of Florida from Spain to the United States. The sea-coas'c 
of this county is sheltered by St. Vincent's, St. George's 
Island, and Dog Island, within which are broad sounds and 
bays navigable for vessels of any size and affording fishing 
grounds unsurpassed by any on the coast. Dog Island Har- 
bor especially is one of the finest on the Gulf. 

Owing to its isolated position Franklin County has not yet 
been penetrated by railroads, and for this reason it offers 
attractions to the sportsman not possessed by its more ac- 
cessible neighbors. Tribatary ^o these nearly land-locked 
waters are a number of rivers and estuaries, many of them 
navigable for vessels of considerable size, and all navigable 
for small boats, affording access to some of the best hunting 
lands in Florida. The region is most easily reached by way 
of the Apalachicola River, from River Junction, whence com- 
munication by rail is easy and direct from all parts of the 
United States. 



GADSDEN COUNTY. 



31 



Gadsden County. 

Area, 540 eq. m.— Lat. 30° 20' to 30° 40^ N.— Long. 84° 15' to 84° 55' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 13,000.— Pop. (1880), 12,169.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,018,149.— County seat, Quincy. 

Organized as one of the original counties into whicli the 
State was divided in 1822, Gadsden County soon became 
one of the leading agricultural districts of Florida. The 
face of the country is undulating, with a subsoil of red clay, 
well watered, and covered with a heavy growth of hammock 
and pine timber. The Ocklockonee Eiver forms the dividing 



il>\5 ""> I ^"■"■~~~&""~' 




GADSDEN COUNTY! 

; SCALE OF MI LES , ~^^^ 



line from Leon County on the southwest, and into this flow 
numerous " runs " and creeks of clear water, affording abun- 
dant facilities for water-power and natural irrigation for wide 
tracts of land. The hills rise to a considerable height in the 
northern part of this county — more than 300 feet in the 
neighborhood of Quincy. Under the system of cultivation 
that prevailed prior to the Civil War, and before adequate 
means of transportation existed, the annual tobacco crop was 
something like 5,000 boxes of 350 pounds each. Within a 
few years this industry has been revived by Northern capital 
on a large scale in the vicinity of Quincy (see p. — ). The 
culture of Cuban tobacco was introduced into Gadsden 



32 GADSDEN COUNTY— HAMILTON COUNTY. 

County in 1829, by a Virginian wlio settled in the vicinity of 
Qnincy. He was so successful that his example was soon 
followed, and until the Civil War in 1860 the value of the 
crop nearly or quite equalled that of cotton, the annual ship- 
ments averaging 1,600,000 pounds. A great advantage of 
tobacco-growers was that the busy season timed itself so as 
not to interfere with cotton-planting. Thus the tobacco 
could usually be harvested after the cotton was started and 
before it was time for picking, while the packing and boxing 
was necessarily done in wet weather, when out-of-door work 
was imjpracticable. The Civil War first and the abolition of 
slavery afterward practically suspended this industry. 

The Western Division of the Florida Central & Peninsula 
Eailway crosses Gadsden County with stations as follows : 

9 Ocklockonee (Leora Co.) 34. 

T>. . I 12.... Midway 31 SE 

fr Tafia- ' 24....QuiBcy 19 a Dist.fr. 

h'«==j; V 33....Mt. Pleasaaat 10 I Klver Jc. 

nassee. ^^ 42.... Chattahoochee i 1 i 

43 . . . .River Junction '•* 

' Connects Savannah, Florida & Western Eailway, crossing at once into 
Georgia. 

2 Connects Pensacola & Atlantic Division L. & N. (see p. 16), and with Chat- 
tahoochee River Steamers. 



Hamilton County. 

Area, 460 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 20^ to 30° 40^ N.— Long. 82° 40' to 83° 20' W.— Es- 
fmated pop. (1889), 9,000.— Pop. (1880), 6,790.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,- 
C42,495.— County seat, Jasper. 

The county lies between the Suwannee Biver on the west, 
and one of its main branches, the Alapaha, on the south and 
east. The surface is generally level, with rolling land near 
the rivers, and a fine growth of hammock timber and pine, 
and cypress in some portions. Sea Island or long staple 
cotton is successfully grown. In the river-swamps and ham- 
mocks the soil is rich and dark. The Florida Central & 
Peninsula Railroad runs through the middle of the county 
from north to south, and the Florida Central & Western 
Railroad passes close to the southwestern corner at EUa- 
ville, Madison County. The county contains a number of 
remarkable springs, sinks, and other natural curiosities. 



HAMILTON COUNTY— HERNANDO COUNTY. 33 

The Gainesville Division, Savannah, Florida & Western 
Eailroad, crosses the county with stations as follows : 



Dist. fr. 
Savannah. 



130 .. . .Dupont 49 

139.... Forrest 40 N 

150. . . .Statenville 29 a x)ist fr 

163.... Jasper 16 | Live Oak. 



V 168 Marion U 

S 171 Suwannee {Suwannee Co.) 8 ] 

IT9! . . Live Oak {Suwannee Co.) ' 

1 Connects F. C. & P. By. running east to Jacksonville, and west to Eiver 
Junction (see p. 91). For continuation to Gainesville, see p. 91. 

The Georgia Southern & Florida Railroad enters the 
county from Georgia on the north with stations as follows : 

I 167.... Melrose (Ga.) 43 NW pi.tf^^ 

iH8t. ir. y i80....Jasperi 30 a Lake Citv. 

Macon, Ga. gj, 199.... wMte Springs 11 I ^'^^ ^^^* 

1 Crosses S. F. & W. Ey. 




Hernando County. 



Area. 500 sq. m.— Lat .28° 25^0 28" 40' N.— Long. 82° to 82<' 40' W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 10,000.— Assessed va:uat:on (1888), $900,000.— County seat, Brooks- 
ville. 

Until 1850 this county, then three times its present size, 
was named Benton, after the Hon. Thomas H. Benton, of 
3 



34: 



HERNANDO COUNTY. 



North Carolina, a popular statesman of the day. The pres- 
ent name was chosen when the original county was subdi- 
vided in 1875. 

Brooksville, the county town, lies in the midst of one of 
the finest agricultural regions of the State. The surface soil 
is largely a rich vegetable mould, underlaid with brown sandy 
loam several feet deep, and resting upon a substratum of 
limestone, clay, or marl. In area the land is about equally 
divided into hammock, high pine, low pine, and swamp. 
The hammock lands are almost invariably high and rolling, 



HERKANDO COUNTY 




with fine natural drainage, and an exceedingly rich soil un- 
derlaid with sand or clay, and having a substratum of lime- 
stone. All these lands, except the very poorest, are ex- 
tremely productive, yielding cotton, tobacco, vegetables, and 
the various field crops. In the central and western parts of 
the county the ridges rise to a height of some three hundred 
feet above tide-water. There are no navigable rivers, and the 
Gulf coast can be approached only by boats of very light 
draught, save at Gulf Key or Hammock Creek, where there 
is a good harbor accessible for vessels drawing six feet of 
water. Indian Creek, in the same harbor, is also a safe 
anchorage for small vessels. Elsewhere the approaches 
to the coast are shallow, with numerous oyster-beds, and 
an archipelago of small barren islands in the northern part. 



HERNANDO COUNTY 35 

The Florida Southern (J., T. & K W. sysrem), the South 
Florida, the Florida Central and the Orange Belt railroads 
cross the eastern part of the county, and a branch of the first 
named penetrates to Brooksville in the middle of the 
county. 

Stations of the Florida Southern within and adjacent to 

the county are : 

T^. . . I 63.... Pemberton Ferry 1 11 W Dlst.fr. 

Aw:^l^' V 69. . . Couper 5 a Brooks- 

ucaia. J, 74.... Brooksville | vllle. 

1 Connects with South Florida Railroad (see below). For continuation of this 
line to Ocala, see p. 87. 

The Bartow Branch of the South Florida Railroad has sta- 
tions within and next to the county as follows : 

Pemberton Ferry ' {Sumter Co.).. 57 -^^r 

1. . . .Fitzgerald 56 ^^ 

3. ...Oriole 54 f^ Dist. 

6.... Bay City 51 fr. Bartow. 

10 Macon {Pasco Co.) 47 

11. ...Orange Belt Jc. '^ 48 

1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see above). 

'^ Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see below). For continuation of this line, see 
p. 76. 

The Tampa Branch of the F. C. & P. Co. crosses the east- 
ern iDoint of the county from north to south. The stations 
are : 

Dist.fr. I 22....Withlacoochee 39 a Dist.fr. 

Wild- I 28. ..Lacoochee* 32 I Plant 

Wood. V 30....Owensboro a 31 | City. 

J Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see below). 

^ Crosses South Florida Railroad (see p. 76). For continuation of this line, 
see p. 76. 

The Orange Belt Railway crosses the eastern point of the 
county from northeast to southwest. Stations are : 

■r,,.„x f_ I 66... Wyoming 83 NE Dist.fr. 

TVTnnVnp ^ 71 . . . . Lacoochec 1 77 A St. Peters- 

Monroe. g^ ^3 ^^^^^ 2 75 /| ^^g^ 

1 Crosses F. C. & P. Ry. (see above), 

2 Crosses South Florida Railroad (see above). For continuation of this line, 
see pp. 74 and 87. 



Dist. fr. 

Pemberton 

Ferry. V 

S 



36 HILLSBOROUGH COUNTY. 



Hillsborough County. 

Area, 1,300 sq. m.— Lat. 27° W to 28° 50' N.— Long. 82" to 82° 50' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 14,000.— Pop. (1880), 5,814.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$3,200,000.— County seat, Tampa. 

This county, or the region adjacent, early received its name 
after the Earl of Hillsborough, Secretary of State for the 
colonies of Great Britain during the American Eevolution. 
The county was organized in 1835. It is mainly in the long- 
leaf pine region, naturally all woodland, with 1,185 square 
miles of rolling pine land, 75 square miles of marshy lowland, 
and 40 square miles of hammock. Of all the Gulf counties 
Hillsborough is perhaps the most favored in her coast line, 
which exceeds 150 miles in length, although from north to 
south the county is only 36 miles wide. This is due to 
Tampa Bay, which with its branches, Hillsborough Bay and 
Eiv^er and Old Tampa Bay, penetrates far into the interior. 
About one quarter of the whole extent of coast is low and 
marshy, while the rest rises quite abruptly from the water's 
edge, often with bluffs and a border of fine beach. The 
greater part of the county is good pine land, with a fair 
amount of hammock and some open prairie. The better lands 
for agricultural purposes lie in the western part. 

Tampa Bay was one of the first discovered and used by 
the early navigators, and it is almost certain that traders and 
freebooters visited its waters prior to Hernando De Soto, who 
anchored there on May 25, 1539, with a fleet of several ves- 
sels, and a force of 570 men, comprising the very flower of 
Spanish chivalry. He brought with him, also, 223 horses, 
and the whole elaborate equipment of armorers, smiths, and 
servants essential to the needs of such a force. The Feast of 
Pentecost of that year fell on the day of arrival, and the 
noble bay was named Bahia Espiritu Sancto (Bay of tho 
Holy Spirit), after the devout custom of these early explorers. 
The Spanish name was for centuries retained on the maps, 
but it appears to have been dropped in favor of the still 
older Indian name soon after the English gained a foothold. 

On the shores of the bay and along the Gulf coast and the 
outlying Keys are many Indian mounds of great interest to 



38 



HILLSBOROUGH COUNTY. 



arcliseologists. Some account of tliem is given elsewhere 
■with a sketch of the results of such exxDlorations as have thus 
far been prosecuted. See Index. 

Tampa Bay is navigable for vessels of the largest class. 
The bar carries 20 feet of water at low tide, and good an- 
chorage for yachts can be found almost anywhere within 
the bay. There are no dangerous obstructions, and the only 
difficulty likely to be encountered is in running upon the 
shoals which make out from the shore, and occasionally occur 
in mid channel. With a yacht properly constructed for ser- 
vice in these waters running aground is a matter of small 
moment. For hunters and fishermen the woods and waters 
of Hillsborough County offer abundant sport. All the game 
and fishes peculiar to Florida may be found within a few 
miles of the centres of poj^ulation. 

The South Florida Eoad, main line, has the following 

named stations near and within the county : 

83. . , .Lakeland {Folk Co.) i 48 

88 ... . Shiloh 43 E 

93.... Plant City. 2 37 a 

98. . . .Cork 26 

Dist.fr. 100....Sparkman 24 Dist.fr. 

Jackson- 103... .Seffner 21 Port 

ville. 105 Mango 19 Tampa. 

109 Orient 15 

V 111. . . .East Cove 13 

W 115. . . .Tampa 9 

124.... Port Tampa 3 

1 Connects with Bartow & Pemberton Ferry Brandies, S. F. Rd. (see p. 80). 

2 Connects with F. R. & N. to Pasco County, Dade City, etc. (see p. 76). 

3 Connects with ocean steamers to Key West, Havana, New Orleans, and 
Mobile. Also with coastwise steamboats. 

The Orange Belt Eoad, from Monroe, Volusia County, to 
St. Petersburg, enters Hillsborough County from the north 
near the Gulf and nins southward down the coast. The sta- 
tions in and near the county are : 

106 Odessa {Pasco Co.) 42 

114. . . .Tacony 34 N 

116 Tarpon Springs 32 a 

120... Sea Side 23 

122. . . .Sutherland 2G 

Dist. fr. 123. . . .Yellow BlufE : .25 

Monroe. 127 Dunedin 21 

130.... Clearwater Harbor 18 

132 Armour 16 

V 138. . . .Cross Bayou 10 

S 142....Lel]raan 6 

148. ...St. Petersburg- 

' Connects with ferry to Port Tampa and coastwise steamboats 



Dist. fr. 
St. Peters- 
burg. 



HOLMES COUNTY. 



39 



Holmes County. 

Area, 540 sq. m,— Lat. 30° 43' to 31° N.— Long. 86° 5' to 85" 30' W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 4,000.— Pop. (1880), 2,190.— Assessed valuation, $382,954.— County 
seat, Cerro Gordo. 

The land in Holmes County is mainly a good quality of pine 
land, which produces cotton, sugar-cane, corn, and tobacco, 
as the principal field crops. The soil is clay and sandy loam. 
Peaches, grapes, and plums are successfully grown, and stock- 




raising is among the profitable industries. The Choctawhat- 
chee Eiver is the principal watercourse, finding its source 
in Southern Alabama, running in a southerly direction across 
the county, and falling into Choctawhatchee Bay. It is navi- 
gable for steamboats beyond the county line, and is available 
for logging purposes and small boats well up into Alabama. 
Holmes County is underlaid with cavernous white lime- 
stone, which frequently forms remarkable "sinks " and wells. 
Most of the lakes and ponds are of this nature, often occur- 
ring on ridges where there was a sufficient quantity of sand 
and drift to fill in the cavity when the subsidence occurred. 



40 HOLMES COUNTY— JACKSON COUNTY. 

The Pensacola & Atlantic Division of the Louisville & 
Nashville Railroad crosses Holmes County east and west near 
the southern border. Stations in and near the county are as 
follows : 



Dist. fr. 
• Eiver Jc 



43 . . . .Chipley {Washington Co.) 118 

53. . . .Bonifay 108 E 

61....Caryville 100 a 

63 . . .Westville 98 

V 70 Ponce de Leon 91 

W 77....Argyle 84 

81. . . .De Funiak Sp 80 

For continuation east and west, see p. 101. 



Dist. fr. 
Pensacola. 



Jackson County. 

Area, 1,000 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 35' to 31° N.— Long. 84° 50' to 85° 40' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 20,000,— Pop. (1888), 14,372.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,023,985. — County seat, Marianna. 

This county is in what is termed the oak, hickory, and 
pine upland region. It contains about 150 square miles of 
red lime lands, 400 square miles of oak, hickory, and high 
pine, and 450 square miles of ordinary long-leaf pine lands. 

It is named after Gen. Andrew Jackson, military Governor 
of Florida, and is one of the original counties organized on the 
acquisition of the Territory by the United States. It is on 
the eastern border of what is known as West Florida. The 
Chattahoochee Eiver separates it from Georgia on the east, 
navigable for river steamers for the whole distance. The 
Chattahoochee unites with the Apalachicola River near the 
southeastern corner of the county. Along the river is a strip 
of bottom land from one and one-half to two miles wide, 
which is of extraordinary richness, but is subject to over- 
flow. The Chipola River, rising in the northern part of the 
county, runs south, dividing it nearly in half. This stream 
is used for floating lumber to the railroad and to the Gulf, 
but is navigable only for small boats. Along the Chipola 
River are rich hammock lands covered with a heavy growth 
of hard wood timber, as oak, beach, magnolia, maple, 
hickory, and bay. The county is well watei'ed by the tribu- 
taries of the streams mentioned, and is besides well supplied 
with lakes and si)rings. The soil is for the most part red 



JACKSON COUNTY. 



41 



clay and sandy loam, and produces cotton, corn, oats, rice, 
sugar-cane, and tobacco, and all save the strictly subtropical 
fruits. 
The Pensacola & Atlantic Eailroad crosses the county from 




ea,st to west in its middle belt of townships, having stations 
near and within the county as follows : 

Kiver Jc. ' {Gadsden Co.) 161 -ci 

5....Sneads 156 ^ 

Dist. f-. 15.... Cypress 146 ^ DIst.fr. 

lixver Jc. w 25 Marianna 136 Pensacola. 

-r^ 34 Cottondale 127 

44 . . . Chipley ( Washington Co.) 117 

1 Connects witti Savannah, Florida & Western Eailroad (see p. 32), and 
Chattahoochee Kiver steamers. 



42 



JEFFERSON COUNTY. 



Jefferson Comity. 

Area, 560 sq. m.— Lat. 30° to 30° 40' N.— Long. 83' 35' to 84" 5' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 16,000.— Pop. (1880), 16,065.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,800,000.— County seat, Monticello. 

Jefferson County stretches across that portion of the State 

known as Middle Florida, touching Georgia on the north 



Ihodes Store > 




JEFFERSON COUNTY— LAFAYETTE COUNTY. 43 

and the Gulf of Mexico on the south. The Aucilla Eiver, 
navigable for steamboats to the natural bridge, forms the 
'southeastern boundary. The face of the country is unusually 
diversified, the whole of the northern part hilly and well 
wooded, Micosukee Lake forming its northwestern boundary. 
This lake is about twelve miles long and six miles wide at 
its western end, a curiously irregular body of water, sur- 
rounded by extensive forests of i)ine. The soil is generally 
a sandy loam underlaid with clay, well adapted for the cul- 
tivation of early vegetables and fruits. The field crops are 
mainly cotton, corn, rice, sugar-cane, and tobacco. About 
twenty miles from the coast the hills abruptly disappear, and 
from this point to the Gulf stretch the " flat woods " almost 
unbroken, but full of game, and affording an inviting field 
to the sportsman. 

The Western Division of the F. C. & P. crosses the county 
about twelve miles from the Georgia line. Its stations 
within and nearest to the county are : 

. .Chaires {Leon Co.) 153 W 

..Lloyd 14T A Dist.fr. 

, .Drifton i 138 Jackson- 

. Aucilla 131 ville. 

. . Greenville (Madison Co.) 124 

1 Connects witli branch to Monticello, four miles, and then with branch of 
Savannah, Florida & Western Railroad to Sunny PliU, twelve miles, and 
Thomasville, Ga., twenty miles. 





12. 


Dist. fr. 


18. 


Talla- 


2T. 


hassee. > 


/ 34. 


] 


S 41. 



Lafayette County. 

Area, 940 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 20' to 30" 15' N.— Long. 82° 50' to 83° 22' W.— Es- 
timated pop. (1889), 5,000.— Pop. (1880), 2,441.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$562,818.— County seat, New Troy. 

Lafayette County lies along the west bank of the Suwannee 
Eiver for the whole of its navigable course, its natural facil- 
ities for transportation being excellent. The river is navi- 
gable for steamboats to New Branford, where the Savannah, 
Florida & Western Railway touches the eastern bank of the 
river, affording communication by rail with Gainesville, 
Lake City, and Live Oak, and the great trunk lines of rail- 
way. The soil is sandy, underlaid with clay, and there is 
much excellent hammock land as yet unoccupied. The 
southern extremitv of the countv is within ten miles of 



I M A ,,D l~S O N 



JLAFAYETTE COTJNTY 

SCALE OF MILES 




LAFAYETTE COUNTY— LAKE COUNTY. 45 

Cedar Keys, the Gulf terminus of the Florida Central & 
Peninsular Railway. 

The Gulf coast of Lafayette County is very shallow, and 
destitute of harbors, save at the mouth of the Suwannee and 
Steinhatchee Rivers, where small vessels may find shelter and 
anchorage. The fishing is excellent in the rivers and along 
the coast. 

Game of all kinds is very abundant in the heavily wooded 
and sparsely populated region that covers the whole county 
a few miles back from the river. 



Lake County. 

Area, 1,100 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 2G' to 28° 55' N.— Long. 81° 15' to 81° 55' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 14,000 Organized in 1887, no census. — Assessed valuation 
(1888), $3,724,116.— Highest elevation, 500 ft.— County seat, Tavares. 

Lake County was formed in 1887 by an act of the State 
Legislature uniting portions of the adjoining counties 
(Orange and Sumter). It is among the most beautiful of 
the inland counties, owing to the picturesque groups of lakes 
from which it takes its name, and which cover nearly one- 
sixth of its surface. The larger members of the group are 
known as Lakes Harris, Eustis, Griffen, Dunham, Dora, Yale, 
Minnehaha, Mineola, and Apopka, the last named lying 
partly within the borders of Orange County. Besides these 
there are small lakes, almost without number, and abundant 
flowing streams. That the county is nearly on the "divide " 
of the Floridian Peninsula is evident from the fact that 
streams flowing through its territory find their way to the 
ocean through the three widely divergent channels of the St. 
John's, the Withlacoochee, and the Kissimmee, the first 
named falling into the Atlantic near the northern boundary 
of the State, while the others reach the Gulf of Mexico, 
through Lake Okeechobee and the Everglades. In point of 
fact, the highest elevations in the State, nearly five hundred feet 
above tide-water, are found in this county. The approaches, 
however, are so gradual that only the surveyor's level can 
demonstrate the constant rise. The larger lakes are all navi- 
o-able for small steamers, and as some of them are connected 



LAKE COUNTY. 



47 



by natural or artificial waterways quite an extensive and 
varied system of navigation exists. 

The Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway system, 
through the Florida Southern Railway Company, affords 
abundant transportation facilities, and there are besides the 
Tavares, Atlantic & Gulf, and the Orange Belt Railways. 
These lines intersect in all directions, skirting the lake 
shores and rendering all parts of the county easily accessible. 
Other branch roads are contemplated, notwithstanding the 
multiplicity, for Lake County is one of the richest orange- 
growing counties in the State, and it has been abundantly 
proven that, to be profitable an orange grove must be within 
a veiy few miles of a railroad. 

The St. John's & Lake Eustis Division of the Florida 
Southern Railway (J;, T. & K. W. system) enters the county 
at Astor (forty-two miles from Palatka) after crossing the St. 
John's River. The stations are : 



Diet. fr. 
Astor. 



Astor 25 

4 Bryansville 21 

6 Cummings 19 

7. . . .Sellar's Lake 18 

12 ... . Summit 13 

15 Ravenswood .10 

16 Pittman 9 

18 Altoona 7 

20. . . .Glendale 5 



N 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Fort Mason. 



S 21.... Umatilla 4 

25 ... . Fort Mason i 

^ Connects with branches to Tavares and Leesburg (see below). 

Connections with the foregoing at Fort Mason (sixty-seven 
miles from Palatka). This line is U-shaped, curving around 
the north shore of Lake Eustis. The stations are : 

, . .Leesburg i 23 

.Grandview 22 NE 

.Belle'reva 21 & 

. Laniers 18 SW 

.Tilson 17 A 

Orange Bend 16 

....Lisbon 15 Dist. fr. 

, . Lancaster 12 Lane Park. 

, . Grand Island 11 

, .Fort Mason 2 9 

, . . Eustis 7 

.Mt. Homer 6 

. Tavares ^ 3 

, . . Lane Park 

T. & K. W. system to Pemberton Ferry, etc., and to 
Also with F. C. & P., Southern Division (see p. 48). 

2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. branch to Astor (see above). 

3 Connects with J., T. & K. W. branch to Sanford (see p. 48). 





C. 




1.. 




2.. 




5.. 




6., 




7.. 


Dist. fr. 


8,. 


Leesburg. 


10.. 




11.. 


V 14 . 


NE 16.. 


& 17.. 


SW 20.. 


23 . 


1 Connects with J., 


Ocala, etc. (see 


p. 48). 



48 



LAKE COUNTY. 



The main line Florida Southern Eailway (J., T. & K. W. 
system), from Ocala, Marion County, and beyond, has stations 
within and near the county as follows : 



Dist. fr. 
Ocala. 



21 ... . South Lake Weir {Marion Co.) 53 

24 Conant 50 

26 Lady Lake 48 

29 ChetwyBd 45 

30. . . .Fndtland Park . .44 

34 Leesburg ^ 40 

36 Corleys 38 

38 Helena 36 

39 Okahumpka 35 

44 Casons 30 

48 Centre Hill (Sumter Co.) ......... 26 



N 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Brooksville. 



1 Connects witli J., T. & K. W. to Fort Mason (see p. 47) ; F. C. & P. to 
Wildwood (see below) ; and Lake Griffin steamboats. For continuation of this 
line, see p. 63. 



The Sanford & Lake Eustis Eailway (J., T. & K. W. sys- 
tem), from Sanford to Tavares, has the following stations near 
and within the county : 



Dist. f r. 
Sanford. 



W 



11.. 
16.. 
19.. 
24 . 
29.: 



E 



.Markham 21 

.Ethel ....18 . 

.Wayland 13 ^ 

Sorrento 10 

, .Mt. Dora 5 

, .Tavares 



Dist. fr. 
Tavares. 



The Southern Division F. G. & P. enters the county from 
Sumter County on the west. The stations adjacent to and 
within the county are : 



D'st. fr. 
Wildwood. 



5 Bamboo (Sumter Co.) IT 

9 Montclair 13 

11 Leesburg i 11 

14. ...Sadie 8 

15 Eldorado 7 

22. . . .Tavares 2 



N 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Tavares. 



1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47). 
8 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47). 



The Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Eailroad has stations as 
follows within and adjacent to the county : 

I Tavares I 32 N 

Dist.fr. I 4.... Ellsworth 28 a Dist.fr. 

Tavares. V 8 Victoria. 24 ( Orlando. 

S 10 Gainsboro (Oran(7e Co.) 22 ! 

J Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47), and F. C. & P. (see 
above). 



'V, 



LAKE COUNTY— LEE COUNTY. 



49 



The Tavares, Apopka & Gulf Bailroad lias stations as fol- 



lows 



Dist. fr. 

Tavares. 



0. . . .Tavares i 29 

3. . . .Ellsworth 25 

8. . . . Astatula 20 

15 West Apopka , 14 

20 Montverde 9 

23.... Watts Jc C 

2T Mineola 2 

29 Clermont 



N 
A 



Diet. fr. 
Clermont. 



1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. ; Tav., Or. & Atlantic ; and F. C. & P. (see 
p. 48). 

The Orange Belt Eailroad from St. Petersburg, on Tampa 
Bay, to Monroe, Orange County, has stations near to and 
within the county as follows : 



92 Cedar Hammock {Sumter Co.) .. .57 

I 98 Mascotte 51 

Dist. fr. 102.... Sheridan 47 

St.Peters- I 107 ... Clermont » 42 

burg. V 109 Mineola 40 

E 110.... Mohawk ...39 

116. . . .Killarney {Orange Co.) 33 



W 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Monroe. 



Connects with Tavares, Apopka & Gulf Railroad (see above). 



Lee County. 

Area. 1,800 sq. m.— Lat. 25° 50^ to 26° 58' N.— Long. 81° 40' to 82" 5' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 1800.— Assessed valuation (1888), $875,834.— County seat, 
Myers. 

Lee County was formed by act of Legislature in 1887 out 
of Monroe County. By a popular vote of the inhabitants it 
was named after General Robert E. Lee, the Confederate 
leader. Like the adjacent counties of Dade on the east, De 
Soto on the north, and Monroe on the south, it still is a 
wilderness, mainly forest, but opening toward the west into 
the vast level savannas and everglades bordering upon Lake 
Okeechobee. The fact that until 1887 the county seat (Key 
West) was one hundred and eighty-five miles from the north- 
ern limit of the county gives an idea of the " magnificent 
distances " of this region. Fort Myers, or Myers as it is now 
called, is the present county seat. 

There are as yet no railroads in this county, the nearest 
terminus being at Punta Gorda, about nine miles north of 
the boundary line. Access from that point is easy by means 



50 



LEE COUNTY. 



of steamboats which run down the coast to Naples, and up 
the Caloosahatchee River. 

The Gulf coast is well provided with harbors in San Carlos 
Bay, Charlotte Harbor, and Ostego Baj. 




The Caloosahatchee River is the most important of the 
watercourses, finding its source in Lake Okeechobee and 
flowing in a southwesterly direction to the Gulf. For twenty- 
three miles from the mouth it averages more than a mile in 
width and is navigable for vessels drawing about seven feet. 
Above this point it narrows, to about one hundred and 



LEE COUNTY— LEON COUNTY. 51 

seventy-five feet, becomes deeper, with banks sometimes 
ten to twenty feet high and clothed with a dense growth of 
virgin forest. The Disston Land Company has straightened 
and deepened the channels connecting with the great lake, 
so that now small steamers can go through to and from the 
Kissimmee Eiver, crossing Lake Okeechobee. 

The county in general is flat and low, averaging some 
thirty feet above tide-water. The soil is well adapted to 
vegetables, oranges, pineapples, sugar-cane, and all the 
tropical fruits. The lands bordering the Upper Caloosahat- 
chee are largely vegetable mould, several feet in depth, and 
even in the pine lands muck-ponds are found at short inter- 
vals, affording valuable manure. Considerable quantities of 
egg-plants and tomatoes are shipped to the North in January 
and February, and the strawberry, which ripens here in Jan- 
uaiy, is already an important crop. 

Stock raising is the most important interest of Lee County, 
and from Punta Rassa, at the mouth of the Caloosahatchee, 
the annual shipments to Cuba number about 10, 000 head. 



Leon County. 

Area, 900 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 15' to 30° 41' N.— Long. 84° to 84° 55' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 20,000.— Pop. (1880), 19,662.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$2,006,413.— Elevation, 250 feet, near Tallahassee. — County seat, Tallahassee. 

Leon County is one of the oldest and most prosperous in 
the State. To the stranger approaching from the generally 
level country to the eastward it presents a pleasing variety 
of landscape, with its wooded hills and picturesque valleys, 
its hard clay roads, its groves of magnolia and live-oak, and 
the extensive plantations of cotton, sugar-cane, tobacco, and 
grain. Pears, peaches, and grapes are profitable crops and 
easily cultivated. 

The soil is clay and sand, the sand predominating in what 
are known as " gray hammocks " while in the rich lands or 
" veritable hammocks," as they are locally termed, red clay 
predominates and forms a permanently rich and practically 
inexhaustible soil, suitable for almost all agricultural pur- 



52 



LEON COUNTY. 



poses. Beneath this, at a depth of eight or ten feet, is a bed 
of limestone, through which run subterranean rivers, and in 
which are formed the remarkable ' ' sinks " that are among 
the natural curiosities of the region. As a grazing country 
Leon County is noted all over this part of the State. 
There are several kinds of native grass, which grow with 
great luxuriance, and are apparently quite as good for dairy 
stock as any of the standard Northern grasses. Among these 




XEON COUNTY 



are the Bermuda grass, " crab grass," " crow's foot," and 
*•' beggar weed." The last named is a leguminous plant 
which springs up without seeding on almost all cultivated 
land, after the usual market crop has been hai-vested. It 
possesses excellent fattening qualities, and if not used for 
pasturage forms a fertilizing crop which returns to the sur- 
face soil an abundant supply of excellent manure. The 
other kinds of grass make good hay when harvested and 
cured. All kinds of live stock eat them with avidity, and 
thrive as well as on the Northern varieties. 



LEON COUNTY. 53 

During the existence of negro slavery, Leon County was 
mainly occupied by large j)lanters, whose estates covered 
thousands of acres, and whose wealth enabled them to live in 
true baronial style. Their crops of cotton and tobacco were 
hauled to the St. Mark's Eiver and shipped thence to the 
markets of the world. Tallahassee, the capital of the State 
and the county seat, was the social centre of this life and 
still retains many of its former characteristics. The great 
plantations are now largely subdivided and sold or let to 
small tenants, and the j)i'oductive energies of the county are 
adjusting themselves to the new order of things. 

There are several large lakes within the borders of the 
county, all of which afford excellent sport for the fisherman, 
and to the southward, within easy reach, is an almost un- 
broken wilderness, reaching to the Gulf of Mexico, where 
there is an abundance of game. 

The eastern part of the county is drained by the St. Mark's 
Eiver (see p. 98) and the western part by the Ocklockonee. 
Neither of these streams is navigable within the limits of 
Leon County. 

The Western Division F. C. & P. crosses the county from 
east to west, with stations in and near the county as follows : 

I 147 . . .Lloyds {Jefferson Co.) 61 -g 

Diet. fr. 153 .. . .Chaires 55 -pj^j.^ £j._ 

Jackson- J, 165 Tallahassee* 43 '> iJiyerJc' 

ville. ^ 174 OcklockoBee 34 

^ 177.... Midway (6?adso!en Co.).... 31 ' 

1 Connects with St. Mark's Branch F. R. & N. (see below). For continua- 
tion east see p. 43 ; west, see p. 32. 

The St. Mark's Branch F. C. & P. south from Tallahassee. 

Stations are : 

-n!„4- 4U. I 0.,.. Tallahassee! 21 N 

%o • I 4....Belair 17 A Dist.fr. 

iTotifl V 16 ... . Wakulla ( Wakulla Co.) 5 I St. Mark's. 

nassee. g 21 .... St. Mark's ( Wakulla Co.) | 

J Connects with Western Division F, C, & P. (see above). 



§4 



LEVY COUNTY. 



Leyy County. 



Area, 940 sq. m.— Lat. 29° to 29" 35' N.— Long. 82° 22' to 83° 5' W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 8,000.— Registered vote, 1,540.— Pop. (1880), 5,767.— Assessed valua- 
tion (1888), $1,101,369.— Elevation, 120 ft., near Bronson.— County seat, Bronson. 



Levy County was organized in 1850, and named after a 
leading politician of that day, who soon afterward changed 




his name to Ynlee. He was a senator of the United States 
and prominent in the movement for secession. 

A large proportion of the land in Levy County is undulat- 
ing pine forest with a sandy soil more or less mixed with 
loam and underlaid with limestone. It is well adapted for 
the cultivation of fruits and vegetables. The whole county 



LEVY COUNTY— LIBERTY COUNTY, 55 

is well witliin the latitude adapted for orange culture. The 
Suwannee River forms the northwestern boundary, and is 
navigable for river steamers, as is the Withlacoochee, which 
forms the southeastern boundary. Midway between these 
two is the Wacassassa Eiver, navigable for small boats, and 
penetrating what is known as the Gulf Hammock, a rich, 
fertile tract capable of jproducing all the farm crops in great 
abundance. 

The coast is well provided with harbors for small craft, 
and at Cedar Key vessels of considerable size can find shelter 
and secure anchorage. 

The best oysters on the Gulf Coast are found in this vicin- 
ity and are shipped in large quantities to other parts of the 
State. 

The Cedar Key Division F. C. & P. enters the county 
from the northeast. Its stations near and within the county 
are : 



Diet. fr. 
Waldo. 



V 



29 Archer {Alachua Co.) 41 f^p, 

38. . . .Bronsou 32 ^^^ 

50.... Otter Creek 20 ^ D:st. fr. 

51....Ellzey ....19 



SW 

it G 
(see pp. 4 and 5). 



60 Rosewood 10 



Cedar Key. 



70. . . .Cedar Key 

Connects at Gainesville witli J., T. & K. W. system, and with F. C. & P. 



Liberty County. 

Area, 800 sq. m.— Lat. 30° to 30° 40' N.— Long. 840 40/ to 85° lO' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 2,000.— Pop. (1880), 1,362.— Assessed valuation (1888), $238,- 
012. — County seat, Bristol. 

Liberty County lies between the Apalachicola Eiver on the 
west and the Ocklockonee River on the east. The land is for 
the most part second and third class pine, with a sandy soil 
underlaid with clay. Oranges are successfully cultivated, 
and the rivers and lakes abound with fish, but the principal 
industry is stock-raising, for which the open pine-woods are 
admirably suited. No railroads have as yet penetrated 
the county, but the Apalachicola Eiver affords steamboat 
communication with the Gulf of Mexico and with the Flor- 
ida Central & Peninsula Eailroad at Eiver Junction. 

Bristol, the county seat, has a population of about three 



56 



LIBERTY COUNTY. 



hundred souls. In the middle of the county are a number 
of small lakes from one to five miles in length. Taluga 



.^^^/' 




Eiver, a tributary of the Ocklockonee, andNewEiver, flowing 
directly to the Gulf of Mexico, drain the central portion of 
the county. 



MADISON COUNTY. 



57 



Madison County. 

^ Area, 650 sq. m.— Lat. 30° W to 30° 38' N.— Long. 83° 10' to 83° 50^ W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 16,000.— Pop. (1880), 14,798.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,- 
500,100.— County seat, Madison. 

The eastern half of Madison County is mainly i^ine land, 
and the western is largely hammock of good quality. The 
natural division between these two tracts rung irregularly 




north and south. A clay subsoil underlies the whole region, 
farther below the surface among the pines than among the 
hammocks. In both divisions tho soil is productive and so 
well adapted to the cultivation of Sea Island cotton that one 
of the largest manufacturing houses in the world has estab- 
lished a factory at Madison, the county seat. It is claimed 
that nearly one-twelfth of the entire long staple cotton crop 
of the world is grown in Madison County. The climate can 
hardly be considered semi-tropical, but the Gulf of Mexico 



58 MADISON COUNTY. 

is near enough to prevent destructive frosts, tlie nights are 
generally cool, and the temperature rarely rises above ninety 
degrees in summer, and the health of the settled portions of 
the county is exceiDtionally good. Figs and grapes are 
among the most prolific of the fruit crops. Fig-trees grow 
without cultivation, reaching in a few years a height of fifteen 
to twenty feet, and bearing abundantly. Grapes are raised 
in large quantities, including the native scuppernong, and 
foreign varieties, including the black Hamburg, and the 
wine-producing industry has aleady reached respectable pro- 
portions. Le Conte pears have been introduced within a 
few years, and with peaches can be ripened for the North- 
ern markets long before similar fruits come to j)erfection in 
higher latitudes. 

The Suwannee and Aucilla Eivers with their tributaries 
drain the county, affording abundant water and numerous 
mill-sites. In the extreme southern portion, and extending 
into the neighboring counties of Taylor and Lafayette, is a 
great swamp, known as San Pedro Bay. It has never been 
explored beyond a short distance along the edges. The whole 
tract, save occasional ridges and islands, is under water, and 
four considerable streams flow outward in different direc- 
tions. These are the FinhoUoway and the Econfenee on 
the west, and the Spring Warrior and Steinhatchee on the 
east. The "bay" is a noted retreat for large game, including 
deer, bear, panthers, and wolves. It is no trifling matter to 
hunt in this region, but with competent guides good sport 
may be anticipated. 

The Western Division F. C. & P. bisects the county, 
crossing it from east to west, with stations at : 

94. . . .Bucki Jc. {Suwannee Co.) 113 

95....EUavine 112 E 

Dlst.fr. 103.... Lees 1C4 a Wcf f- 

Jackson- 105.... West Farm 102 i^'-^i. i-. 

vlUe. V 110.... Madison 9T 

W 124. . . .Greenville 83 

131 ... . Aucilla (.Jefferson Co.) T6 

For continuation east to JacksonviUe, see p. 91 ; west to Tallahassee, Pensa- 
cola, etc., see p. 43. 



Eiver Jc. 



MANATEE COUNTY. 



59 



Manatee County. 

Area, 1,330 sq. m.— Lat. 26° 56' to 27° 38'' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 60^ W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 6,000. —Pop. (1880), 3,544.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,257,922.40.— County seat, Manatee. 

Manatee. County takes its name from the manatee, or sea- 
cow, an animal formerly abundant along the coasts of Flor- 




ida, but now nearly extinct (see p. — ). Lying mainly be- 
tween the twenty-seventh and twenty-eighth parallels of 
latitude, it is semi-tropical in all its climatic characteris- 
tics, and being on the coast its range of temperature is still 
further modified by the equalizing influence of the Gulf. 



GO MANATEE COUNTY. 

Without prejudice to other sections it may 15e said that the 
county contains a greater area of strictly arable land than 
any other county south of the twenty-eighth parallel. There 
is a great variety of soil ranging from rich hammocks to 
worthless swamps, but the greater part is pine land capable 
of more or less successful cultivation according to location. 
Some excellent farms have been opened in the flat woods, 
and crops can be grown out of doors the whole year round. 
The i)rairie lands, of which there are tens of thousands 
of acres, are believed to be productive, but at latest ad- 
vices no considerable attempt has been made to cultivate 
them. 

The garden section of the county is along the Manatee 
River, which is bordered by some of the richest hammock 
land in the State, and smaller hammocks and '* bays " exist 
all through the piney region. 

Early vegetables for the Northern markets are cultivated 
with great success. 

The coast extends from Tampa Bay on the north to the 
headwaters of Charlotte Harbor on the south. It includes 
the mouth of the Manatee River and Sarasosta Bay with its 
outlying keys, and afibrds an unsurpassed cruising-ground 
for j)leasure craft suited to the navigation of these shallow 
waters. Fish, oysters, and turtle abound, the tarpon may 
be caught with the rod, and the devil-fish may be harpooned 
•out in the Gulf. The keys are many of them quite high 
and well adapted for residence and the cultivation of the 
more tender sub-tropical fruits. 

The nearest railway connections are at Tamj)a, and St. 
Petersburg on the north and Punta Gorda on the south, with 
which points there is constant communication by coasting 
steamers running to the river towns on Manatee and Sara- 
sosta Bay. 

The county is a great cattle range, with its principal ship- 
ping point at Charlotte Harbor (see Eoute 81). The fishing 
is good in all the lakes and streams as well as along the coast, 
and deer are found within a few miles of any of the settle- . 
ments. The Manatee and the Myakka Elvers are navigable 
for small boats far up into the interior, and these afford the 



MANATEE COUNTY— MARION COUNTY. 61 

easiest access to tlie best Imnfcing-grounds, since camp equip- 
age can be more easily carried by boat than by any other 
means of transportation. 



Marion County. 

Area, 1,55T sq. m.— Lat. 28° 55' to 29° 30' N.— Long. 81° 35' to 82° 32' W.— Es- 
t'mated pop. (1889), 22,000.— Pop. (1880), 13,046.— Assessed valuation (1888), $4,- 
222,200.— Comity seat, Ocala. 

Marion County lies on the central ridge of the Florida 
Peninsula, the natural drainage being toward the Atlantic on 
the east, and toward the Gulf of Mexico on the west. The 
extent from north to south is thirty-eight miles, from east 
to west fifty-four miles, and it is one of the richest orange- 
growing counties in the State, possessing besides some of the 
most attractive natural scenery and many of the most popu- 
lar winter resorts. 

The land is divided into the usual grades of hammock, 
first, second, and third class pine and scrub, the last named, 
however, being confined almost wholly to the townships 
lying east of the Ocklawaha Biver, omitting, however, the 
bend of the stream from Moss Bluff to Eaton, where there 
are high rolling hills and excellent soil. The rest of the 
county is very attractive, even to one w4io sees it only from 
a passing train. The gently .swelling hills clothed with open 
woods, and often carpeted with green grass, suggest, even in 
midwinter, some of the most beautiful parts of the North. 
There is an almost total absence of the scrub palmetto, with 
which the traveller becomes so familiar as the almost ever- 
present undergrowth of the pine forests, and while there are 
wide reaches of inferior pine barrens, the general impression 
conveyed is of a naturally rich and productive country. The 
native growth of wild orange-trees suggested grafting to the 
first settlers, and the result has been some of the finest 
groves in the State, or even in the world. In 1889 valuable 
phosphate beds were discovered in the southwestern part of 
the county. Their extent is not definitely determined. 

Of veritable high hammock land it is estimated that 
Marion County contains nearly one hundred thousand acres, 



62 



MARIOIT COUNTY. 



covered with a rich and practically inexhaustible vegetable 
mould. These lands were iinder cultivation by the aborig- 




inal races long before Europeans came, and here the Sem- 
inoles made their most resolute stand against the United 
States forces during the war that resulted practically in their 
extermination or expulsion. 



MARION COUNTY. 



63 



Orange Lake, Lake Weir, Lake Kerr, Lake Bryant, and 
countless smaller bodies of water are within the borders of 
the county, and Lake George, forming part of the St. John's 
Eiver, touches its eastern boundary. The Ocklawaha Biver 
runs across the county from south to north, navigable for the 
entire distance. To this stream are tributary. Silver Spring 
Bun, navigable to its source, and Orange Creek, the outlet 
of Orange Lake. The Withlacoochee Biver defines the 
southwestern boundary, with Blue Biver, a wonderfully beau- 
tiful " spring run " as a tributary. 

The main line of the Florida Southern Bailway (J., T. & K. 
W. system) enters the county from Palatka, etc., on the 
north. The stations near and within the county are : 



Dist. fr. 

Palatka. 



45... M! canopy Jc. {Alachua Co.) 101 

47 Boardman 99 

49 Mcintosh 97 

52 Lochbie 94 

55 Oak Lawn 1 91 

57. . . .Keddick 89 

63 Martin 83 

70. . . .F. C. & P. Crossing 76 

72. . . .Ocala =» 74 

82. . . . Welshton 64 

85. . . . Candler 61 

88. . . .Oklawaha 58 

V 89 . . . Weir Park 57 

S 93.... South Lake Weir 53 

96 Conant {Lake Co.) 50 



Diet. fr. 
BrooksvUle 



1 Branch east to Citra, 6 m. (see below). 

2 Connects with Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf Eailway (see p. 64), and South- 
em Division F. C. & P. (see below). 

For continuation south, see p. 48 ; north, see p. 4. 



The Soutliem Division F. C & P. crosses the outlet of 
Orange Lake from Alachua County on the north. Its sta- 
tions in and near Marion County are : 



Dist. fr. 
Femandina. 



111.... Citra 1 67 

117 Sparrs 61 

120 Anthony 58 

124 Spring Park 54 

126 Silver Spring Jc. 2 52 

130 ... . Ocala ^ 43 

141 Belleview 37 

146 ... . Summerfield 32 

151. .. . Oxford {Sumter Co.) 27 



N 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Tavares. 



^ Branch west to Oak Lawn, 6 m. (see above). 

2 Branch west to Silver Spring, 1 m. 

3 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (above) ; Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf 
Hallway to Homosassa (see p. 64). 



64 MARION COUNTY— MONROE COUNTY. 

The Silver Spring, Ocala & Gulf Eailroad runs southwest 
from Ocala. Its stations in and near the county are : 

O....0calai 48 

I 3. . . . Agnew 45 NE 

° ^a^tel 40 A Dist.fr. 



Homa- 

Bassa. 



Dist. fr. 13>^..Leroy ..34)^ 

Ocala. I „f.j/ (Blue Spring) 07^ 

SW 26....Dunel]on 22 

34 ... . Citronelle ( Citrtis Co.) 14 

1 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system, and F. C. & P. (see p. 63). 



Monroe County. 

Area, land and water, 2,600 sq. m.— Lat. 24" SO' to 25= 50' N.— Long. 80° 40' 
to 82° 55' W.— Estimated pop. (1889), 20,000.— Assessed valuation, $1,408,458.— 
County seat, Key West. 

The county as it exists is far smaller than prior to 1887, 
when the whole northern portion, now Lee County, was 
separated for convenience of administration. The popula- 
tion prior to the division was 10,940 (1880). 

Nearly one-half of the present county is on the main pen- 
insula of Florida, the most southerly portion of the territory 
of the United States. The rest comprises the long line of 
keys and reefs that reach from Cape Florida on the east 
coast of the peninsula to Key West and the Dry Tortugas 
in the Gulf of Mexico, a distance of about one hundred and 
forty miles. The peninsula section is almost uninhabited, 
and has been only partially surveyed, owing to the nature of 
the country, which has not yet proved inviting to settlers, 
save hunters or fishermen. The northern and western part 
of this tract is more or less available as a cattle range, but to- 
ward the coast innumerable bayous wind in and out, forming 
a labyrinth known as the Ten Thousand Islands. This re- 
gion has been partially mapped by the United States Coast 
Survey. It affords an attractive cruising-ground for sports- 
men provided with small boats. The more important part 
comprises the chain of keys or islands, almost wholly com- 
posed of coralline rock, which sweeps in a grand curve around 
the end of the peninsular and forms the northern bank of 
the Gulf stream, at its very source. 

Monroe County lies between the twenty-fourth and twenty 



^«%.^ 



^Md^ .1 



o 



^H, 



^ Y 




MONROE COUNTY— NASSAU COUNTY. 65 

sixtli parallels of latitude. Frost is unknown within its bor- 
ders, its vegetation is strictly tropical, and its climate milder 
than any other part of the Atlantic seaboard. 

The keys (Spanish, cayo, island) are at once an aid and a 
menace to navigation. They afford shelter to small craft, 
but the channels are so tortuous that they are extremely dan- 
gerous for large vessels. Coral reefs approach the surface 
at intervals throughout a wide belt of ocean. As soon as 
they are built up to within a few feet of the surface man- 
groves take root and in a few years the foundation is laid 
for a new island. 

Key "West (see p. — ), is the only large city in the county, 
and the only x^oint to and from which there is at present any 
regular means of access. Eailroads there are none, except 
tramways at Key West, but the possibility of a southern ter- 
minus for a line down the eastern coast of the peninsula is 
in contemplation, Turtle Harbor being regarded as the most 
favorable locality. It has even been seriously suggested 
that a line carried on trestles from key to key is not beyond 
the resources of modern engineering. 

Several lines of ocean steamers touch regularly at Key West, 
and there are mail packets once a week thence to Biscayne 
Bay and the intermediate Keys. 



Nassau County. 

Area, 600 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 15' to 30° 45' N.— Long. 81° W to 82° 5' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 10,000.— Pop. (1880), 6,635.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$2,564,351.— Highest elevation, 23 to 30 feet. — County seat, Fernandina. See p. 
127. 

Nassau County, named by its early settlers after William, 
Prince of Nassau, is the northeastern county of Florida. Its 
northern and western boundary is defined by the St. Mary's 
Kiver, separating it from Georgia, and navigable for steam- 
boats as far as Trader's Hill, thirty miles from the sea. The 
Nassau Eiver, with its affluent, Thomas Creek, forms nearly 
the whole of its southern boundary. 

The soil varies from the clays and marls of the river-bot- 
toms to sandy loam and sand near the coast and among the 



66 



NASSAU COUNTY. 



pines of the interior. The immediate sea-coast is formed by 
Amelia Island. It is covered with calcareous sand and is 
one of the islands where the famous long staple sea-island 
cotton originated. Similar soil is found along some of the 
sea-coast rivers, often in connection with what are known as 




" fresh marsh and black rush lands," which are considered 
very valuable for gardening. 

Corn, cotton, and oats are the principal commercial pro- 
ducts, and early vegetables, strawberries, and melons are suc- 
cessfully raised for the Northern markets. Many of the 
semi-tropical fruits can be grown, but not with sufficient 
certainty to make them profitable crops. 

The Savannah, Florida & Western Railroad, the main ave- 



NASSAU COUNTY. 



'67 



nue of commerce between Florida and the North, enters the 
county at the northwestern angle, running in a southeasterly 
direction to Jacksonville, in Duval, the adjacent county. 
Stations near and within the county are : 



Dlst. fr. 

Way 
Cross. 



V 

sw 



35 Folkston {Georgia) .41 

43.... Boulogne 36 NW jjjst. fr. 

46....Hil]iard. ...30 a jack- 

56....Callahani 20 gonville, 

64 Dinsmore {Duval Co.) 12 | 

T6 . . . . Jacksonville 2 {Duval Go.) 



J Crosses F. E. & N., Southern Division (see below). 

2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system F. C. & P. (see pp. 25 and 26) ; Jack- 
sonville, Mayport & Pablo Railway (see p. 26). Also with ocean steamers to the 
North, St. John's River steamboats. 

The Southern Division F. 0. & P. (Fernandina to Orlando) 
has the following stations in and near the county : 



Dlst. fr. 

Fer- 
nandina. 



SW 



Fernandina ' 47 

11 . . . .Hart's Road Jc. 2 36 

19.... Italia 28 

27 ... . Callahan 3 , . .23 

32 ... . Crawford 15 

37. . . .Button 10 

41 Brandy Branch 6 

4:T ... .BsLldvnn * {Duval Co.).... 



NE 
A 



Dist. fr. 

Baldwin. 



' Connects with ocean steamers. 

2 Connects with Jacksonville & Fernandina Branch F. R. & N. (see beiOw). 

3 Crosses S. F. & W, Ry., Jacksonville Division (see above). 

4 Connects with Western Division F. C. & P. (see p. 7). 

The Jacksonville and Fernandina Division F. C. & P. runs 
nearly north from Jacksonville to Hart's Road, thence east to 
Fernandina. Its stations are : 



Dist. fr. 
Jack- 
sonville. 



Jacksonville ' 37 

5 Jacksonville Jc... 32 

15 ... . Duval 22 

27. . . .Hart's Road 2 10 

37 Fernandina ^ 



Dist. fr. 
Fernandina. 



J Connects with railroads and steamers out of Jacksonville (see pp. 25 and 26). 

2 Connects with Southern Division F. C. & P. (see above). 

3 Connects with ocean steamers. 



QS 



ORANGE COUNTY. 



Orange County. 

Area. 1,250 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 20' to 28° 52' N.— Long. 80° 50^ to 81° 40' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 20,000.— Pop. (1880), 6,618.— Assessed valuation, 
84,652,573.- County seat, Orlando. 

Orange County, as its name implies, is in the central orange 
belt of the peninsula, and includes some of the most exten- 




sive groves in the State. The head waters of the St. John's 
Eiver form its eastern boundary, and a group of lakes adds 
greatly to the natural attractions of the region. Lake 



ORANGE COUNTY. 60 

Apopka, lying mainly within the western boundary of the 
county, is second in size only to Okeechobee, and Lakes 
Monroe, Jessuj), Harney, Butler, Conway, Maitland, and 
many others, range from a few acres up to thousands of 
acres in extent. Almost without excejotion the land rises 
from the water in gently rolling hills, securing immunity 
from malarial influences and affording unsurpassed sites for 
homes and for the cultivation of the various crops. 

The face of the country is varied and the soil corresponds. 
There are high and low hammocks, high, medium, and flat 
l)ine lands, bay-heads and savannahs, all of which are capable 
of different uses for the agriculturist and horticulturist. A 
partial list of the fruits that can be successfully and profit- 
ably grown in this county includes oranges, lemons, limes, 
grape-fruit, shaddock, -citron, guava, pineapples, pomegran- 
ates, Japanese plums, figs, etc. Eice, sugar-cane, cassava, 
strawberries, plums, and early vegetables are cultivated with 
success. 

The central and northwestern townships are the most at- 
tractive, and contain most of the i^opulation. Toward the 
cast and south there are few or no settlements and an abun- 
dance of game during the winter months. 

The larger lakes and the St. John's Eiver above Lake 
Monroe are navigable for launches and small craft, but there 
are at present no regular boats running above Sanford. 

The main line of the J., T. & K. W. system enters the 
county from the north, with stations in and near Orange 
County as follows : 

DIst. fr. i . . . . Enterprise Jc. i ( Volitsia Co.) r N -n- f f 

Enterprise V 4 Monroe - 3 a cT'^I' H' 

Jc. S 7.... Sanford 3 | Sanford. 

1 Connects Indian River Branch J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 9T;. 

2 Connects Orange Belt Railroad (see p. TO). 

3 Connects South Florida Railway (see p. 70) ; and Sanford & Indian River 
Railway (see p. 71). 

For continuation of this line nor:;h, see p. 97 ; south, see below and p. 70. 

The South Florida Eailway, connecting with the J., T. 
& K. W. system at a station used in common, has stations as 
follows within and near the county : 



70 



ORANGE COUNTY. 



Dist. fr. 
Sanford. 



0. . . .Sanford ' 124 

3. . . .Belair 121 

5.... Lake Mary 119 

10 Longwood^ 114 

13 Altamonte Spring . .111 

15. . . .Maitland 109 

18. . . .Winter Park 106 

22.... Orlando 3 102 

27. . . .Pine Castle 9T 

34....McKinnon 90 

40 Kissimmee * {Osceola Co.) 84 



N 
A 



Dist. fr. 

Port 
Tampa. 



' Connects J.. T. & K. W. system (p. 69), and Sanford & Indian Kiver Eail.- 
way (p. 71), and St. John's Kiver steamboats. 
'^ Connects Florida Midland Railway (below). 
3 Connects Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Railway. 
* Connects Kissimmee River steamers. 

The Orange Belt Railroad, Monroe to Petersburg on Tampa 
Bay, has stations in and adjacent to the county as follows : 

Monroe ^ 149 

2. . . .Sylvan Lake 147 NE 

4 ...Pao!a2 145 a 

6. . . .Island Lake 143 

9. . . . Glen Etbel 140 

11 ... . Groveland 138 

12. . . .Palm Springs ^ . . , 137 

— Granada — 

Dist. fr. 15. ...Forest City.... 134 

Mpnroe. 18. . . .Toronto '- 131 

20. . . .Lakeville 129 

. . . Clarcona s 123 

. . . Millerton 125 

, . .Crown Point 123 

, . .Winter Garden. 119 

, . . Oakland 117 

. . . Killarny 115 

. . . Mohawk {Sumter Co.) 110 

T. & K. W. system (see p. 69). 
2 Crosses Sanford & Lake Eustis Branch J., T. & K. W. system. 

3 Crosses Florida Midland Railway (see below). 

4 Connects Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Railway. 

5 Crosses Florida Midland Railway. 
For continuation southwest, see p. 87. 

The Florida Midland Eaihvay lies wholly within the coun- 
ty. Its stations are : 



21. 
24.. 
26., 
30.. 
32.. 
84.. 
39 . 
' Connects J. 



V 

SW 



Dist. fr. 
St. Peters- 
burg. 



Dist. fr. 
Longwood. 



Longwood i 27 

3 . . .Palm Springs 2 . . 24 

4 Altamonte 23 

6 Lake Brantly 21 

8 . . . . Fitzville 19 

10 East Apopka 17 

ll....Apopka3 16 

15 Clarcona * 12 

18.... Villa Nova 9 

20 Oconee 7 

V 21 Minorville 6 

S 23....Gotha 4 

27 Englewood 

1 Connects J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 69). 

2 Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see above). 

3 Crosses Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic Railway. 
* CroHfies Orange Belt Railway (see above). 



D:st.fr. 
Englewood. 



ORANGE COUNTY— OSCEOLA COUNTY. 



71 



The Sanford & Indian Eiver Eailroad (S. F. Ry. system) 
is completed to Lake Charm. The stations are : 

0. . . .Sanford 19 

2 Speer Grove ... 17 N 

3.... Fort Reed.... 16 a 

3.5 ... Onoro 15.5 

4 Silver Lake. 15 

5. . . .Rutledge. 14 

6 . . . Lords .13 

7. . . .Clydes 12 

12. . . .Clifton 7 

14 Tuscawilla ..... 5 

iQ (Oviedo, > 

^^- • (Lake CharmJ 



Dist. fr. 
Sanford. 







Diet. fr. 

Lake 
Charm. 



Osceola County. 

Area, 2,520 eq. m.— Lat. 27" W to 23° 30' N.— Long. 80° 60^ to 81° 35' W.— Es- 
timated pop. (1889), 3,000.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,667,895.— County seat, 
Kissimmee. 

Osceola County, named after the famous Seminole Chief, 
was formed by act of the State Legislature in 1887, from 
parts of Orange and Brevai'd Counties. A series of large 
lakes, Tohopekaliga, Cyj)ress, Hatcheneka, and Kissimmee, 
connected by canals and natural channels, form the head- 
waters of the Kissimmee River, flowing southward to Lake 
Okeechobee, and thence through the Caloosahatchee Eiver 
to the Gulf of Mexico. This whole system of inland water- 
courses is navigable to Kissimmee at the head of the chain 
of lakes. The surface of the country is generally level or 
slightly rolling, with vast tracts of rich, low-lying prairie 
land. The soil is especially adapted to the cultivation of 
vegetables, wliich can be brought to perfection, in ordinary 
seasons, in January and February. 

The latitude of the northern extremity of the county is 28° 
30', assuring almost entire freedom from frosts and an abun- 
dance of grass for stock-raising during the whole year. A 
large number of cattle, sheep, and swine range the woods with- 
out shelter, and are " rounded up " at stated seasons, afford- 
ing one of the most profitable industries of the county. 
Large quantities of sugar-cane have been planted on the re- 
cently reclaimed lands, with every prospect of a speedy and 
bountiful vield. 



72 



OSCEOLA COUNTY. 



The temperature at Kissimmee rarely rises above 90" in 
the summer, and the natural healthfulness of the locality 




Shingle Or ■ff o 
! FtDave'nport ^1 ' 

27 



D E 



OSCEOLA COUNTY 



SCALE OF MILES 

[-.-,1-^1—1 I— ,— fcr-l 

5 10 



has been singularly confirmed by the experience of the white 
workmen on the dredging pachines of the Okeechobee drain- 



OSCEOLA COUNTY. 73 

age company. Since 1881 these men have been employed 
without intermission, even in summer, and have enjoyed un- 
interrupted health. Not a single death had occurred up to 
March, 1889, and it had never been necessary to send for a 
physician. As the work is carried on in a region usually 
supposed to be highly malarial, this record is certainly note- 
worthy. 

Osceola County is settled only at its northern extremity. 
To the south of Lake Tohopekaliga the wilderness is almost 
unbroken. Game abounds, and a large part of the egion is 
accessible in small boats by taking advantage of the creeks 
and numerous small lakes that abound throughout this re- 
gion. 

Within a few years past large drainage o^Derations have 
been undertaken under State patronage by the Okeechobee 
Drainage Company, which have reclaimed extensive tracts of 
land in Osceola County, and bid fair largely to increase the 
sugar product of the State. 

The South Florida Eailway from Orange County on the 
north crosses the northwest corner of the county with sta- 
tions near and within the boundaries as follow : 

I 34 McKinnon {Orange Co.) 90 N -n.-. -.„ 

Dist.fr. I 40....Kissiminee 84 a v)^J 

Sanford. V 44. . ..Cambells 80 I mf^L 

S 57....Davenport (PoZfc Co.) 67 | ^^^V^- 

For continuation of this line north, see p. 70 ; south, see p. 79. 



74 



PASCO COUNTY. 



Pasco County. 

Area, 1,700 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 9' to 28° 29' N.— Long. 82° to 82° 45' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 1,800.— Assessed valuation (1888), $954,329.— County seat, 
Dade City. 

This county was formed in 1887 from the southern part of 
Hernando County. In soil and climate it is among the most 
favored of the Gulf counties, lying just above the twenty- 
eighth parallel of latitude and within the influence of the 
warm Gulf breezes. For the most part the soil is naturally 
of the better grade of pine lands, underlaid with clay, marl, 
and limestone. There are large areas of rich hammock, es- 
pecially in the western townships, which send some of the 
most noteworthy exhibits to the annual fair at Ocala. 

Cotton, oats, rice, corn, and sugar-cane, are the staple^^ 
and all kinds of vegetables have been introduced within the 
13ast few years. The Pithlaschoscootee and Anclote Elvers 
drain the eastern part of the county, and the Withlacoochee 
and Hillsborough drain the western jjart. In some sections 
the land rises to the height of eighty or ninety feet above 
tide-water, and the high hammocks are covered with a mag- 
nificent growth of hard wood. 

The hunting and fishing are good, but for large game it is 
necessary to go ten or twelve miles from the railroads, and 
guides with camping outfits are indisj)ensable for strangers. 

The Orange Belt Kailway enters from Hernando County 
on the north and crosses it southwest and northeast. The 
stations adjacent to and within the county are : 

, . . Wyoming (Hernando Co.) 83 

, . . Lacoochee ' 78 NE 

...Macon 2 76 /\ 

. . Leonard 74 

. . .Blanton 71 

...Cliipco 70 

. . . San Antonio 65 

, . .Pasco 61 

. . Big Cypress 58 

. . .Drexei 51 

. . . Odessa 43 

. . .Tarpon SpT'mgs{HiUshorough Co.)32 









66. 








71. 








73. 








75. 








78. 


Dist. fr. 






79. 


Monroe. 






84. 
88. 
91 




V 


98. 




SW 


106 








117. 



D-st. fr. 
St. Pet- 
ersbui'g. 



' Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see p. 76). 
2 Crosses J., T, & K. W. (see p. 76). 
For continuation north, sec p. 33 ; south, sse p. 38. 



76 



PASCO COUNTY— POLK COUNTY. 







22. 






23. 


Dist. fr. 




30. 


Wildwood.. 


V 


36. 




S 


44. 
61. 



The Tampa branch of the F. C. & P. enters from Hernando 
County on the north. Stations in and near the county are : 

. . .Withlacoochee {Sumter Co.) 39 

. . . Lacoochee >■ 33 N 

. . . Owensboro 2 31 a Dist.fr. 

. . .Dade City 25 I Plant City. 

...Abbott 17 I 

. . .Plant City {Hillsborough Co.) 

1 Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see p. 74). 
' Crosses J„ T. & K. W. (see below). 
For continuation north, see p. 35. 

The Pemberton Ferry Branch of the South Florida Eail- 
-way (J., T. & K. AV. s^^stem) has stations within and near 
the county at : 



Dist. fr. 
Pemberton 

Ferry. 



6 Bay City {Hernando Co.) . .51 

10 Macon 47 

11 ... . Orange Belt Jc. i 46 

12 Owensboro - 45 

16. . . .Dade City 41 

22....Ellerslie 35 

23. . . .RicWand 34 

32 . . . . Tedderville ,..23 

37. . . .Kathleen {rolk Co.) 23 



Dist. fr. 
Bartow. 



' Crosses Orange Belt Railway (see p. 74). 
2 Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see above). 
For continuation north, see p. 85 ; south, see p. 80. 



Polk Countj. 

Area, 1,980 sq. m.— Lat. 27° 35' to 28° 10' N.— Long. 81° 25' to 82° 2' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 8,000.— Pop. (1880), 3,181.— Assessed valuation, $3,500,000.— 
County seat, Bartow. 

The county -was formed in 1859, by act of the State legis- 
lature, from portions of the large neighboring counties of 
Hillsborough, Orange, and Sumter, but its organization was 
interrupted by the Civil War, and not perfected in its pres- 
ent shape until 1874. It is named after James K. Polk, elev- 
enth President of the United States. The twenty-fifth par- 
allel of latitude runs nearly through the middle of the county. 
It was settled mainly by cattle men, who had served in the In- 
dian wars and noted the natural advantages of the country. 
Its average elevation above the sea is estimated at 150 feet, 
and its greatest elevation, according to the levels run by the 
engineers of the South Florida Bailroad, is 235 feet. Nearly 
one-fifth of the surface is water, in lakes of every conceivable 



POLK COUNTY. 



77 



size and shape, from Lake Kissimmee, eigliteen miles long, 
down to little pools too small to be shown on the map, but 
sometimes indicated by a dot. As a rule, these lakes are full 
of pure, clear water, and well stocked with fish. Most of 
them are deep enough to deserve the name of lakes or 
ponds, but some are little better than savannahs. The lake 
region proper lies in the middle of the county. The north- 



POIiK CO. 

SCALE OF MILES 




ern portion of this region is high rolling land, the bluffs ris- 
ing sharply from the lake shores sometimes as much as sixty 
feet. These afford an endless number of excellent building- 
sites, with the advantage, somewhat unusual in Florida, of a 
decided elevation. 

The land is sandy and sandy loam, and the usual variety of 
high and low hammock and the three grades of pine land are 
well distributed over the count v. Toward the south the 



78 POLK COUNTY. 

face of the country is more generally level, and prairies are 
more frequent. 

The Kissimmee Eiver, here mainly a succession of lakes, 
is navigable to the Gulf of Mexico through Lake Okeechobee 
and tho Caloosahatchee River. Peace River is navigable for 
small boats to Fort Meade. This stream falls into Char- 
lotte Harbor on the Gulf of Mexico. Its tributaries, with 
those of the Alafia and the "Withlacoochee Rivers, drain a 
wide region in the southern and western part of the county. 

The best grade of pine lands in this region are considered 
most desirable for agricultural purposes, because, under 
judicious cultivation, their productiveness seems to increase, 
while the high hammocks deteriorate after a few years of 
astonishing productiveness. The dryer kinds of low ham- 
mock are prized for general farming and garden crops, es- 
pecially the early vegetables that are becoming such an im- 
portant factor in the commerce of the State. 

The timber is mainly pine and cypress, but all the hard 
woods are found in the hammocks. 

The summer temperature ranges from 86° to 97° at mid- 
day, falling some twenty degrees during the night. In the 
winter the ordinary range is from 45° to 75°, with, however, 
occasional northers, when the thermometer drops very sud- 
denly to the freezing-point. After the first of February im- 
munity from frost is almost certain, and the thermometer 
ranges from 60° to 78°. The rainy season begins in June 
and lasts till the middle or end of September, rain falling, as 
a rule, almost every day. 

The vital statistics of the county show that general health 
is good, the death-rate from ordinary diseases very low. 

The county commissioners of Polk County certify the follow- 
ing list of its products ; Corn, oats, rye, pumpkins, squashes, 
beans in variety (the snap and lima runners being very pro- 
lific), i)eas (in variety), potatoes, beets, carrots, onions, pars- 
nips, egg-plant, cucumbers, cantaloupes, water-melons, cab- 
bages, collards, cauliflower, kohl-rabi, ruta-bagas, turnips, 
l^epper, okra, tomatoes, lettuce, salsify, spinach, mustard, 
sorghum, sugar-cane, cassava, arrow-root, ginger, chufas, 
pindars or ground peas, goubers, grass-nuts, pie melon, etc. 



POLK COUNTY. 



■79 



Of plants and herbs, sweet marjoram, thyme, tea-plants, 
castor-bean, and benne. Of fruits, orange, sweet, bitter-sweet, 
and sour ; lemons, limes, grapes, peaches, LeConte and avo- 
cado pears, tiger apples, sugar apples, citron, shaddocks, 
grape-fruit, mangoes, Japan plums, bananas, pineapples, 
guavas, jDlums, pomegranates, figs, olives, and pecans. 
Many of these are not recommended as profitable crops. 
The list is given to show the possible range of agricultural 
resources. 

The Polk County region was a favorite hunting and farm- 
ing ground of the aboriginal races, and mounds and other 
evidences of prehistoric habitations are found. When the 
United States surveys were made in 1848 numerous evi- 
dences existed of extensive cultivation, but the luxuriant 
forest growth has nearly obliterated most of them at the 
present time. 

The South Florida Railway enters the county from Pasco 
County (northwest), and Osceola County (northeast), its 
branches forming a triangle in the heart of the county. The 
main line has stations near and within the county as follows : 



Dist. fr. 

Sanford. 



42 ... . Campbells (Osceola Co.) 71 

50... Lake Locke... 63 NE 

54 Emmanton , 61 a 

57 . . Davenport 58 

61 . . . Haines City 54 

68. . . .Bartow Jc. i 47 Dist. fr. 

72 ... . Anbumdale 43 Port 

77 Fitshughs 38 Tampa. 

81.... Acton 34 

83. . . .Lakeland 2 32 

V 93.... Plant City 22 

SW 115.... Tampa 9 

124. . . .Port Tampa 

' Connects Bartow Branch (see below). 

" Connects Pemberton Ferry Branch (see p. 80). 



The Bartow Branch stations are : 

I — Bartow Jc.'* 17 -Kr-n, 

•n^^i. ^v 5.... Winter Haven 12 .-^ -Pk-of 

'^^ 17. ...Bartow^ ' 

' Connects vnth main line to Tampa, south, and Sanford. northeast. 
2 Connects F. S. (J., T. & K. W. system) for Punta Gorda. Charlotte Harbor, 
etc. 



so POLK COUNTY— PUTNAM COUNTY. 

The Pemberton Ferry Branch has stations near and within 
Polk County as follows : 



Dlst. fr 
Pemberton 



23. . . .Richland (Pasco Co.) 31 

32...,Tedderville 22 NNW 

37. . , .Kathleen 17 a Dist. fr. 



40 . . .Griffin's Mill 17 

Feny. V 43. . . Lakeland i 14 

SSE 51. . . .Haskell 6 

57.... Bartow 2 o 



Punta 
Bartow. 



1 Crosses J., T. & K. W. from Sanford and Tampa. 

2 Connects Bartow branch and F. S. Ky. to Punca Gorda. 



Putnam County. 

Area, 860 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 20' to 29° 50' K— Long. 81" 23' to 82° 2' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 12,000.— Pop. (1880), 6,261.— Assessed valuation (1888), $4,- 
130,503.— County seat, Palatka. 

Putnam County is one of several organized in 1847, after 
the first Seminole war. It is named after General Israel 
Putnam, of the Eevolutionary Army. The shajje is very ir- 
regular, some of the boundaries being crooked rivers, and 
others arbitrary lines. As is often the case in Florida, it is 
impossible to give a general statement of the topography. 
The great river St. John's divides the county into two por- 
tions, of which the western is by far the larger. Orange 
Creek, the navigable outlet of Orange Lake, just over the 
line, in Alachua County, joins the Ocklawaha River at the 
southern border, and together they form a considerable 
stream tributary to the St. Johns, and one of the famous 
tourist routes of Florida (see -p. — ••). Except in the im- 
mediate vicinity of the water-courses the western part of the 
county is gently undulating, covered with heavy pine forests, 
which are rapidly giving way to orange groves. Through 
this comparatively low region there runs an elevated rolling 
plateau, ten or fifteen miles wide, and in some places said 
to be two hundred feet above tide-water. This plateau is 
dotted all over with lakelets, surrounded by wooded hills. 
Here and there are prairies and swamps of moderate extent. 
An attractive section of the county is the Fruitland Penin- 
sula, a tract of land eight or ten miles wide, somewhat re- 
sembling the plateau just described lying between the St. 
John's River on the west and Crescent Lake on tlic east. Its 



PUTNAM COUNTY. 



81 



surface is generally liilly, interspersed with lakes, forests, 
and occasinal marshes. The J., T. & K. W. Railway system 
passes through the entire length of the jjeninsula. Crescent 
Lake is a navigable body of water, having easy steamboat 
connection with the St. John's Eiver through Dunn's Creek, 




the outlet at the northern extremity of the lake. To the 
north of this stream, still on the east side of the St. John's 
River, is a fine orange region, including some of the oldest 
and best groves in the State. The St. John's River through- 
out this portion of its course is practically a series of lakes, 
varying in width from a mile to four miles. It is slightly 
affected by the ocean tides as far up as Lake George, and the 
current is nowhere so rapid as to interfere with the use of 
small boats as a convenient means of travel. 

The main line (J., T. & K. W. system) from Jacksonville 



82 



PUTNAM COUNTY— SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY. 



and the north crosses the county nearly north and south. 
Stations are as follows : 



Diet. fr. 

Jack- 

Bouville. 



41....WestTocoi {Clay Co.) 84 

46....Bo8twick 78 

49 ... . Teasdale 75 

52. . . .Sauble 72 

55 Palatka Junction 69 

56. . . .Palatka i 68 

58 Lundy 66 

60. . . .Peniel 64 

63. . . .Buffalo BlufE 61 

64 Satsuma 60 

67....Sisco 57 

70 Pomona 54 

72 . . . .Como .52 

75 Huntington 49 

78. . . .Denver 46 

82 Hammond {Volv^ia Co.) 42 

84. . . .Seville (Volusia Co.) 41 



Dist. fr. 
Sanford. 



^ Coimects St. Aug. & Halifax Eiver Ey. (p. 84) ; St. John's & Halifax Eiver 
Ry. (p. 85) ; and F. S. Ry. to Gainesville (see below). 
For continuation of main line J., T. & K. W. system, see pp. 16 and 97. 

The main line Florida Southern Eailway runs east from 

Palatka. The stations within the county and just beyond 

its western line are : 

0. . . .Palatka • 47 

5 Francis 42 E 

12 . . . .Hollister 35 a 

15. . .Manville 32 

17 . . .Interlachen 30 

19. ..Keuka 28 

21.... Clark's Mill 26 

23 Johnson 24 

V 25. . . .Cooper's Mill 22 

W 26 Cone's Crossing 21 

29 . . Colgrove 18 

' Connects St. Augustine & Halifax River divisions (see p. 84) ; and with 
main line J., T. & K. W., north to Jacksonville, and south to Tampa and Punta 
Gorda (see above). 



Dist. fr. 

Palatka. 



Dist. f r. 

Gainesville. 



Saint John's County. 

Area, 1,000 sq. m.— Lat. 29" 22' to 30° 13' N.— Long. 81° 5' to 81° 40' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 12,000.— Pop. (1880), 4,535.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$2,250,870.— County seat, St. Augustine. See p. 133. 

St. John's County may almost be termed a peninsula, lying 
as it does between the Atlantic Ocean on the east and the 
St. John's River on the west. Along the river there are valu- 
able lands under successful cultivation at many points for 
oranges, pears, sugar-cane, vegetables, and the like. A short 
distance back from the river the flat woods appear, succeeded 



ST. JOHNS GO. 

SCALE OF MILES 




84 



SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY. 



by belts of rich liammock, wliicli in turn give way to palmetto 
scrub that extends to the sea-coast. A few small streams, 
tributary to the St. Johns, water the rolling lands along the 
river, and others find their way into Matanzas Inlet, Halifax 
Eiver, and North Eiver on the coast. Much of the land is, 
and probably must remain, worthless, but, thanks to its 
climate, the county is one of the most prosperous in the 
State, and attracts more tourists than any other section. 
This is due to the existence of St. Augustine, where nearly 
three centuries ago Europeans first learned the salubrity of 
the Floridian climate. The history of St. Augustine is that 
of St. John's County, and will be found in the account of 
that city. 

Fishing is good all along tlie creeks, inlets, rivers, and 
lagoons, and game is to be found by persevering huntsmen, 
thanks to the almost impenetrable " scrub " in which deer 
and turkeys still find shelter. It is wellnigh useless, how- 
ever, to hunt without guides and dogs, and even then hunt- 
ing is no child's play. 

The harbor of St. Augustine, with its connecting inlets, is 
a favorite resort for yachtsmen, and a short day's run to the 
northward opens the extensive inland cruising grounds of 
the St. John's Eiver and its numerous lakes. 

The Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Halifax Eiver Eailway 
(J., T. & K. W. system), St. Augustine to Palatka, has 
stations as follows : 



Dist. fr. 
St. Augus- 
tine. 



V 

sw 



0. . . .St. Augustine^ 31 

New St. Augustine 30 

4....Tocoi Jc 26 

8. ...Smith's 22 

10. . . . Middleton 20 

12 Armstrong 18 

14. . . .Holy Branch 16 

16.... Quid's 14 

18. . . .Merrifield .12 

20 Buena Vista 10 

21 Pattersonville 9 

25. . . .East Palatka Jc 6 

31. . . .Palatka'-* 



NE 
A 



Dist. fr. 
Palatka. 



1 Connects -with J., T. & K. W. system to Jacksonville (see p. 85). 

2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system to Indian River. Tampa and Punta 
Gorda (see p. 82). 

The Jacksonville, St. Augustine & Halifax Eiver Eailway 



SAINT JOHN'S COUNTY— SUMTER COUNTY. 



8d 



(J., T. & K. W. system) is the most dkect route between tlie 
two cities. Stations and distances follow : 

Jacksonville ' 37 

1.... South Jacksonville 86 NW 

3. . . .Phillips M A 

5. . . .Bowden 32 

9 Summerville 2S 

10. . . .Nesbit 2T 

11. ...Eaton 26 

14 Sweetwater 23 

16.. ..Bayard 21 

18. . . .Eegister 19 

19. . . .Clarkville 18 

21. . . .Durbin 16 

V 28 Sampson 9 

SE 32. . . .Magnolia Grove 5 

37. . . .St. Aiigustine2 



Dist. fr. 

Jack- 
sonville. 



Dlst. fr. 

St. Augus- 
tine. 



* For railway and steamboat connections see p. 103. 
2 Connects with line to Palatka, see p. 84. 



Sumter County. 

Area, 625 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 15' to 28° 57' N.— Long. SI":* 55' to 82<^ 18' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 12,000.— Pop. (1880), 4,686.— Assessed valuation (1888), $1,719,- 
018.— County seat, Sumterville. 

Sumter County is topographically part and parcel of the 
central lake region, and of the large orange-growing counties 
of Lake, Marion, Citrus, Hernando, and Pasco. It was orig- 
inally organized as a county in 1851, including parts of the 
present territory covered by Orange and Polk Counties. 
Changes to the present boundaries were made successively 
in 1871, 72, '79, and '87. The Withlacoochee Eiver, which 
forms the major part of the western boundary, is navigable 
to Pemberton Ferry. In the winter of 1888-89, during a 
jjeriod of exceptionally high water, a boat crossed from the 
vicinity of Lake Panasoffkee and the Withlacoochee Eiver, 
thus demonstrating the possibility of crossing from the 
Atlantic to the Gulf. The shooting and fishing are excellent 
over a large portion of the county. Near Dragem Junction 
is the scene of the massacre of Major Dade and his com- 
mand (see p. ), which was practically the beginning of 

the long Seminole war, 1835 to 1842, which nearly exter- 
minated the then existing settlements in South Florida. 

The Florida Southern Kail way (J., T. & K. W. system) en- 



M 



S!^. 



Carlsoi 



ScottsHiU o 



Panasof Ikee ( 



/a DADE'S 
&^ MASSACRE 



\. -r^T.f,'^. 



'*^.rj?^^. 



(ST 



Pemberton Fy. 1 




l,Teina 



07 



22 
' Bushnell 






SUMTERVJLLe 
20 



23 



21 



Cente; 



Webster 
22 

Taixytown 



O' 



r- 



". — ^ 

Lacobchee 



SUMTER COUNTY 



Hill 



i^aniniock 
< 



23 



: J 



2-4 



SCALE OF MILES 



10 




P Q L K 



SUMTER COUNTY. 



87 



ters tlie county at a point about twelve miles southwest from 
Leesburg. The stations within the county and near its lim- 
its are : 



Diet. fr. 

Palatka. 



SW 



115 Cason's (Lake Co.) 31 

120. . . .Centre Hill 26 

125 .. . .Webster , , . .21 

129. . . .Dragem Jc.i 17 

135. . . .Pemberton2 il 

146 Brooksville (Hernando Co.}.. .... 



NE 
A 



Dist. f r. 
Brooks- 
ville. 



J Crosses F. C. & P. (see below). 

2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system for Punta Gorda and Tampa. 

The southern division F. C. & P. enters the county from 
Ocala, Marion County, on the north. Stations adjacent to 
and within the county are as follows : 



Dist. fr. 
Ocala. 



16 Summerfield (Marion Co.).. 21 

21.,.. Oxford 16 

26. . . .Wildwood i 11 

29 Orange Home 8 

31 Bamboo. 6 

35 Montclair 2 

37. . . .Leesburgs (Lake Co.) 



Dist. fr. 

Leesburg. 



i Connects with Tampa branch F. C. & P. (see below). 
2 Connects with J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 47). 

The Tampa division F. C. & P. connects with the forego- 
ing at Wildwood. The stations are : 



Dist. fr. 
Wildwood. 



0. . . .Wildwood 1 61 

5 Coleman , ...56 

8 Panasoffkee 53 

9.. .Sumterville Jc 52 

14. . . .Bushnell. ... 47 

18. ...St. Catharine^ 43 

22 . . . . Withlacoochee 39 

28. . . . Lacoochee (Hernando Co.) 33 



Dist. fr. 
Plant City. 



^ Connects with F. C. & P. to Leesburg (see above). 
2 Crosses J., T. & K. W. system (see above). 



The Orange Belt Eailway crosses the southern part of the 
county. The stations near and within the county line are : 

51 Mascotte (2ya/c« Co.) 96 -p, 

56.. Cedar Hammock 91 "t 

Dist.fr. 60....Tarrytown ..87 '^ Dist. fr. St. 

Monroe, w 64: . . .Wyoming 83 Petersburg. 

70. . .Lacoocheei (Hernando Co.) 77 

71 Macon" (Hernando Co.) 76 



V 
W 



1 Crosses Tampa Branch F. C. & P. (see p. 35). 
a Crosses J., T. & K. W. system (see p. 35). 



88 



SANTA KOSA COUNTY. 



Santa Rosa County. 

Area, 1,260 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 19' to 30° 58' N.— Long. 86° 38' to 87° 20' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 10,000.— Pop. (1880), 6,645.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,282,800.— County seat, Milton. 

Santa Eosa County, next to the narrow territory of Es- 
cambia, is the westernmost county in Florida, and was one 
of the original civic divisions of the State. 




It takes its name from the fine bay discovered by Tristan 
de Luna in 1559. Santa Eosa has four navigable rivers, 
namely, the Escambia, forming the western boundary, and 
navigable into Alabama ; the Blackwater, draining the north- 
ern half of the county, a rich lumber region, sparsely settled, 



SANTA ROSA COUNTY— SUWANNEE COUNTY. 89 

and affording a fine cattle range ; the Yellow Eiver, crossing 
the county diagonally, and forming part of its eastern 
boundary, and East Bay Eiver, parallel to Santa Eosa Sound, 
a short distance inland. The lumber and live-stock interests 
are the principal industries, sheei^ raising having of late 
years taken a foremost place. 

The subsoil is clay with a sandy surface, and rice, corn, 
sweet potatoes, oats, Leconte X3ears, peaches, grapes, and 
figs are grown successfully. The pecan tree flourishes and 
makes a profitable crop when once the trees are in bearing. 
The nuts are quite equal to those grown in Texas. The 
finest and oldest grove in the State is in the town of Black- 
water. 

The Pensacola & Atlantic division of the Louisville & 
Nashville Eailroad crosses the county on a line running 
nearly northeast and southwest. The stations near and 
within the county are : 



Dist. fr. 
River Jc. 



V 

SW 



110 . . . Crestview ( Walton Co.) 50 

114 ... . Chaffin's 46 

122. ...Holt's 38 

131 . . .Good Eange 29 

141. ...Milton 19 

144 Arcadia 16 

152 Escambia {Escambia Co.) 8 



NE 

A 

I Dist. fr. 
Pensacola. 



For continuation southwest to Pensacola see p. 29 ; east, to River Junction, 
see p. 101. 



Suwannee County. 

Area, 750 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 52' to 30° 24' N.— Long. 82° 46' to 83° 18^ W.— Es- 
timated pop. (1889), 10,000.— Pop. (1880), 7,161.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,579,988.— County seat, Live Oak. 

The name Suwannee is of Seminole or Muskhogee origin, 
meaning "deep water," and the fine stream that bears it and 
gives its name to the county forms the boundary on three 
sides. It is navigable for river steamboats as far as White 
Springs during the greater part of the year, and with its 
numerous tributaries affords many desirable mill sites. The 
river gives easy access to the Gulf of Mexico, and the loca- 
tion of the county within reach of the sea-breezes from both 
directions renders its climate exceedingly equable. The 
temperature averages about 50° in the winter months, and in 



90 



SUWANNEE COUNTY. 



summer rarely rises higher than 90°, the average being 80° 
to 85°. 

The soil is a sandy loam with a substratum of clay, fertile 
and easy of cultivation. Large tracts of good land are still 




SUWANNEE COUNTY 

SCALE OF MILES 

3 



lchetuckn.ee Spr. \C • 



c*^-- 






ALACHUA 







10 



open to settlement under the State and United States laws, 
and while considerable portions are held by capitalists, the 
prices of land to actual settlers are by no means exorbitant. 
The lumber within reach of water or railway transporta- 
tion is abundant, and of excellent quality. Hammock lands 



SUWANNEE COUNTY. 91 

border the water-courses bearing the finest varieties of hard- 
wood, as ash, hickory, live oak, red oak, white oak, cherry, 
red bay, beach, maple, and magnolia, while pitch pine and 
yellow pine cover thousands of acres of rolling country. 

Sea Island cotton was largely cultivated by slave labor be- 
fore the Civil "War, and now, after a lapse of many years, is 
resuming its importance. Some of the leading Northern and 
European cotton factors have permanent warehouses at Live 
Oak and elsewhere. The total annual shipment of cotton, 
according to the latest report available, is about three thou- 
sand bales. Oranges can be successfully cultivated, but not 
with the certainty that obtains in South Florida, and tobacco 
is becoming an important and profitable crop. Extensive 
plantations of the Leconte pear are in bearing, strawberries 
are extremely prolific, and all the small fruits are in a 
marketable condition a month ahead of the same kinds in 
Delaware, and two weeks in advance of Georgia. 

The western division of the F. C. & P. crosses the north- 
ern part of the county on a line running northwest and 
southeast. The stations within the county are : 

I Tl....Welborn .....94 q^^, 

Dist.fr. 76.... Houston 89 . Dist.fr. 

Jackson- J. 82. . . . Live Oak» 83 r' Talla- 

ville. -JL- 92 BuckiJc.2 73 hassee. 

•""^ 95....EllavilIe 70 ' 

* Crosses Savannah, Florida & Western Eailway (see below). 
2 Connects with Suwannee River Railroad (see below). 

For continuation westward see p. 58 ; eastward, p. 18. 

The Gainesville division S., F. & W. Ed. (Savannah, Ga., 
to Gainesville, 249 miles, 9i hours). Stations within and near 
the countv are : 



Dist. fr. 

Savannah, 

Ga. 



168 Marion (Hamilton Co.) 81 

171 Suwannee 77 

179. . . .live Oaki 70 

184. . . .Padlock 65 

188. . . .Pine Mount 61 

190 .. . .McAlpin 59 

196. . .O'Brien 52 

203. . . .New Branford2 46 

216 . . .Lake City Jc.s {Columbia Co.).. .33 



DIst. fr. 

Gainesville. 



^ Crosses western division F. C. & P. (see above). 
2 Connects Suwannee River steamers. 
s Connects Lake City division. 



92 SUWANNEE COUNTY— TAYLOR COUNTY. 

The Suwannee Kiver Railway runs from Hudson-on-the- 
Suwannee to Bucki Janction. It is about twelve miles long, 
with no regular stations between termini. When the Su- 
wannee River is low this road is convenient for steamboat 
connections at New Branford. 



Taylor County. 

Area, 1,080 sq. m.— Lat. 29° 40' to 30° 15^ N.— Long. 83° 22^ to 84° W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 3,000.— Pop. (1880), 2,2T9.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$270,094.— County seat. Perry. 

Taylor County was organized in 1851, and named after 
General Zachary Taylor, the j)opular hero of the war with" 
Mexico, 1847-4:8, and subsequently President of the United 
States. 

The county has about forty miles of coast on the Gulf of 
Mexico, with shallow harbors at the mouths of the Aucilla, 
Fenholloway, and Econf ena Rivers, and in Deadman's Bay, 
available only for small boats. There are no lighthouses on 
this coast. The surface is generally level, intersected with 
plentiful streams, some of which afford excellent mill sites, 
and in all of which the different varieties of fish are found in 
plenty. The piney woods are broken by several large ham- 
mocks, the home of bear, deer, panthers, wild-cats, and tur- 
keys. The game has not yet been hunted out in this region, 
and good sport may be had with the assistance of competent 
guides. Along the Gulf the pine lands are very poor, but in 
the interior they are of good quality, the soil varying from 
gray to dark in color, and about two feet deep. The ham- 
mocks are a dark sandy loam, unsurpassed in fertility. 

As a cattle range the county has always afforded excellent 
facilities, owing to the abundant growth of native grasses. 

The climate is that of the Gulf coast of Florida, and is 
healthy when ordinary judgment is used. Along both banks 
of the Econf ena River there is a healthy belt ten miles wide, 
while along the Fenholloway it is sickly, the reason being 
that in the former case the water is pure, while in the latter 
case it is strongly impregnated with lime. In the lime-water 



TAYLOR COUNTY. 



93 



regions cisterns for rain-water are used by prudent residents. 
The Econfena Kiver rises in Washington County, southeast 
from Oak Hill. Its course is thirty miles from its source to 




St. Andrew's Bay, but this is interrupted by Natural Bridge, 
fifteen miles from the mouth, to which point the stream is 
navigable. Below the bridge for several miles the voyager 
is delighted by the frequent occurrence of remarkable springs 
along the west bank. The lands along this river are of fine 



94 TAYLOR COUNTY— VOLUSIA COUNTY. 

quality and the locality has a liigli reputation for liealtliful- 
ness. Bear Creek, a navigable tributary, enters the Econfena 
from the eastward, about four miles from salt water. Besides 
the springs referred to are Hampton Spring on Eocky Creek 
and a chalybeate spring on Blue Creek. 

Perry, the county seat, may be best reached from Madison, 
Madison County, thirty-one miles by mail route. 



Tolusia County. 

Area, 1,340 sq. m.— Lat. 28° 85' to 29° 25' N.— Long. 81° 35' to 81" 40' W.— 
Estimated pop. (1889), 10,000.— Pop. (1880), 3,294.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$3,994,572.— County seat, DeLand. 

Volusia, as may be inferred from the phenomenal increaso 
in its population, is, to Northern settlers, one of the most 
attractive counties of South Florida. This is largely ac- 
counted for from its easy access to Northern mariiets, its ad- 
vantages of soil and climate for invalids, and the facilities 
that it offers to tourists and sportsmen. 

The county was organized under territorial government in 
1825, and its somewhat unfortunate early name was Mosquito 
County, a title which was naturally repudiated as soon as 
possible, and Orange was adopted. It originally included 
Orange and Brevard Counties. In 1854 Volusia and part of 
Brevard were set off, and in 1878 the present boundaries 
were established. Lying between the St. John's Eiver on the 
west, and the Atlantic Ocean on the east, Volusia County has 
navigable waters on both sides, besides which railroads cross 
it in four directions, affording ready transportation for the 
enormous orange crop. The country bordering the princij)al 
railroads and watercourses, indeed, is almost a continuous 
orange grove, and the planters claim that no part of the State 
excels it for raising this favorite crop. The land is largely 
high pine and hammock, and very productive for all kinds of 
crops. 

Along the ocean front are found the narrow beaches, 
sometimes, as at Daytona and Ormond, rising into verit- 
able hammocks. Within these, to the westward, are the 
coastwise rivers, the Halifax and the Hillsborough. West- 



VOLUSIA comruY. 



95 



ward again is a wide belt of the richest hammock, two or 
three miles wide, and containing evidences of ancient culti- 




vation in the shape of drains, canals, and ruined houses, con- 
cerning some of which all records have been lost, while tlie 



96 VOLUSIA COUNTY. 

history of the others, as the Turnbull tract at New Smyrna, 
is tolerably well known. Beyond the hammocks is a belt of 
prairie, broken by islands of cabbage-palm and pine, rising 
first into " fiat-woods," and again into the rolling pine-lands 
that extend nearly to the St. John's Eiver at the western 
boundary. 

The first settlement within the present limits of the county 
was made during the British occupancy by Dr. Turnbull, a 
Scotch gentleman of wealth, who, having obtained a large 
conditional grant of hammock land in the vicinity of 
New Smyrna, enlisted a colony of some fifteen hundred 
Greeks, Italians, and Minorcans, and brought them over 
with the intention of organizing an agricultural community. 
Dissensions followed, and the colony was broken up, but not 
before a large amount of work had been accomplished (see 
Route 63). 

In 1803 a colony of nearly twenty families from St. Augus- 
tine resettled the abandoned lands of the Turnbull tract, es- 
tablishing, in sj)ite of hostile Indians, quite a prosperous set- 
tlement. In 1835, however, the Seminole war broke out in 
earnest, and the inhabitants were obliged to escape across 
the river and see their houses and plantations burned behind 
them. Until 1842 the county was abandoned by whites, and 
even after that time Indian alarms were so frequent that, in 
1860, there were barely twenty-five families within the pres- 
ent boundaries. Then followed the Civil War, when New 
Smyrna enjoyed a short lived and costly importance as an 
entrepot for blockade-runners, but was presently shelled by 
United States gunboats, and nearly destroyed. 

An expedition from Jacksonville was sent up the St. John's 
Eiver, and is said to have captured every man in the county. 
Two of the prisoners were released, however, as too small of 
stature for military duty, and for several months these two 
were the only white men in the county. At the first election 
after the return of peace there were twenty -one registered 
voters, and every one of them was present to organize the 
first court. Shortly after this the movement began which 
has so wonderfully increased the population of tlie county, 
and developed its resources. 



VOLUSIA COUNTY. 



97 



The main line of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West sys- 
tem to Sandford (connecting for PnntaGorda and Port Tampa) 
and Titusville follows a generally north and south direction 
near the St. John's River. The stations within and near the 
county are : 



Dist. 

fr, Jackson- 
ville. 



7T. 
81. 
84. 



92.. 

94.. 

97 

99 

103.. 
105.. 
107.. 
108.. 
113.. 
118 . 
126.. 
131.. 
138.. 
147.. 
151.. 
153.. 
157.. 



. . Denver (Putnam Co.) 82 

. .Hammond 78 

..Seville 75 

. .Bakersburg 71 

. .Pierson . . .' 70 

. . Eldridge 67 

. Barberville 65 

. . .Deep Creek 62 

. . . Spring Garden 60 

. . .Glenwood — 57 

. . .Highland Park 55 

. ..DeLandJc.i 52 

. - .Beresford 51 

. . .Orange City Jc.^ 47 

. . .Enterprise Jc 41 

. . .Osteen 30 

. Cow Creek 23 

Maytown 18 

. Aurantia {Brevard Co.) 9 

.Mims {Brevard Co.) 5 

.La Grange {Brevard Co.) 4 

.Titusville {Brevard Co.) 



Dist. 
fr. Titus- 
ville. 



» At DeLand Junction is a spur three miles eastward to DeLand, and two miles 
westward to DeLand Landing. 

2 At Orange City Junction is the crossing of the Atlantic & Western Kailroad 
(see below). 



Atlantic & Western Eailroad from Bhie Springs on the St. 
John's Eiver to New Smyrna on the sea-coast, crossing the 
county from east to west : 

. . . .Blue Springs 29 

I 0% .. Orange City Jc 28>^ W 

Tvi-i. f_ 3... Orange City 26 a Dist. 

Smvrna ' 8>^. .Lake Helen 19)^ i fr. Blue 

bmyma. ^ 22 ...Waverly 6 Springs. 

E 25X..G]encoe 3M I 

29 New Smyrna 

At Orange City Junction is the crossing of J., T. & K. W. (see above). 



98 



WAKULLA COUNTY. 



Wakulla County. 

Area, 580 sq. m.— Lat. 30° to 30° 20' N.— Long. 84° 5' to 84° 45' W.— Estimated 
pop. (1889), 3,500.— Pop. (1880), 2,723.— Assessed valuation (1888), $362,281.— 
Comity seat, Crawf ordville. 

This county is named after the famous spring near the 
Gulf coast. The Seminole word Wakulla means mystery, 
and no one who visits the spring will question the fitness of 
the title (see p. — ). A further mystery, peculiar to this 
region, is the alleged *' Wakulla Volcano," a column of 




U 



^VAKULiLA 
COUNTY 

I SCALE OF MILES 

*— I T— ^ 1-=.— F 



Jjcksons 



smoke or vapor that perpetually rises above the trees at a 
certain point to which no man has as yet penetrated (see p. 
■ — ). The surface is mainly level and sandy, with a clay 
subsoil and limestone rock, often rich in phosphates, not far 
below the surface everywhere. Heavily timbered hard-wood 
hammocks cover a large portion of the county, and game is 
abundant. The Ocklockony Eiver, a considerable stream, 
forms the western boundary, and its tributaries water the 
western part of the county. In the eastern part are the St. 
Mark's and Wakulla Eivers, which unite, forming the Apala- 
chee Eiver, five miles from the Gulf. The former has its 
source in the famous spring just referred to. The latter 
rises in a small pond, nineteen miles northeast from the 



WAKULLA COUNTY. 99 

junction of the streams. Boats drawing four feet of water 
can ascend to the sources of both these streams. It is sup- 
posed from topographical surveys that the St, Mark's derives 
its supply from Lake Micosukee and its tributaries (see 
p. 52). Numerous sinks occur along a certain connecting 
line, and sometimes the river itself emerges for a time above 
ground. 

The Ocklockony River, forming the western boundary of 
the county, rises in Georgia, and running generally south, 
falls into Ocklockony Bay, twenty miles west of St. Mark's. 
It is navigable for steamboats about fifty miles. Some 
twenty miles from its mouth it divides. New Eiver carrying 
a portion of its waters to the bay. Its principal tributaries 
are Tugalo, Little Eiver, Robinson's Creek, and Rocky Com- 
fort. 

The Gulf coast line is about twenty-five miles in extent, 
not attempting to trace its various indentations. It forms an 
extensive bight known as Apalachee Bay, early discovered 
by the Spaniards, and the site of attempted settlements in 
the sixteenth century. 

At the mouth of St. Mark's River, on the east side, is a 
lighthouse showing a fixed white light of the fourth order, 
visible fifteen miles at sea. The tower is white, eighty-three 
feet in total height above the water. The channel is well 
buoyed, and admits vessels drawing seven feet at low tide. 

The principal industries are turpentine-making, stock-rais- 
ing, bee-culture, hunting, and fishing. There are many 
natural curiosities as sinks, springs, and the like scattered 
through the county. The supply of drinking-water is mainly 
derived from cisterns, as the natural flow is strongly im- 
pregnated with lime. 

The St, Mark's Railroad from Tallahassee, in Leon County, 
to St. Mark's, is twenty-one miles long ; through time, one 
hour and forty-five minutes. 

I Tallahassee 21 -»j 

Dist.fr, J, 4....Belair. IT -"^ Dist.fr. 

Tallahassee, q 16. ...Wakulla 5 A St. Mark's. 

^ 21... St. Mark's ' 

For connections at Tallahassee (see p. 53). 



100 



WALTON COUNTY. 



Walton County. 

Area, 1,360 sq. m.— Lat. 30° 20^ to 31" N.— Long. SS" 52' to 86" 39' W.— Esti- 
mated pop. (1889), 6,000.— Pop. (1880), 4,201.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$1,122,755.— County seat, De Funiak Springs. 

Walton County is bounded on the north by Alabama, east 
by Holmes and Washington Counties, south by Choctawhat- 
cliee Bay and the Gulf of Mexico, and west by Santa Rosa 
County. The land is mainly covered with pine woods, flat 




near the coast but high and rolling to the northward. The 
soil is for the most part sandy with clay near the streams. 

The land is highly productive and large shipments are an- 
nually made of cotton, corn, sugar, vegetables, fruits, and to- 
bacco. Stock-raising, especially sheep, is extensively fol- 
lowed and is on the increase. This industry was originally 
introduced by a colony of Scotch Presbyterians who settled 
in the Euchee Valley in 1823, and whose descendants still 



WALTON COUNTY— WASHINGTON COUNTY. 10 i 

remain among the most prosperous and thrifty farmers of 
this region. 

The Pensacola & Atlantic division of the L. & N. Ed. 
crosses the county from east to west. The stations within 
and near the county are as follows : 



Dist. fr. 
Kiver Jc. 



Pensacola. 



TO Ponce de Leon {Holmes Co.). . . 134 

77....Argyle 128 E 

81 De Funiak Springs 124 a -njcf <v 

94.. ..Mossy Head 109 -Uist. rr. 

V 101. , . .Deerland 102 

W 110. . . .Crestview 93 

114. . . .Milligan (Santa Rosa Co.) 89 

For continuation of this route to Tallahassee, etc., eastward, see p. 40 ; west- 
ward to Pensacola, p. 87. 



Washington County. 

Area, 1,330 sq. m.— Lat. 30" to 30° 40^ N,— Long. 85° 20' to 86° 32' W.— Es- 
timated pop. (1889), 6,000. —Pop. (1880), 4,089.— Assessed valuation (1888), 
$759,537.— County seat, Vernon. 

Washington was one of the original counties organized 
after the United States acquired the territory of Florida. 
Holmes and Jackson Counties bound it on the north, Jackson 
and Calhoun on the east, the Gulf of Mexico on the south, 
and Walton County on the west. The principal exports are 
cotton, timber, and cattle. The soil is in the main sandy, 
with alluvial bottoms and hammocks along the rivers. Some 
of the cultivated portions of the county have been tilled by 
whites for nearly half a century, and from time immemorial 
by the aborigines who preceded them. The sheep-growing 
industry has developed here, as in the neighboring counties, 
during recent years, and bids fair to become a very profitable 
branch of farming. The fine bay of St. Andrew's and its 
vicinity offer exceptional attractions to sportsmen. 

The Western division of the Florida Central & Peninsula 
Railway closely follows the northern boundary line. The 
stations are : 

34 Cottondale {Jackson Co.) 171 

1 44....Chipley 161 E 

^-^•^^ i 63::::wXJ?e-::::::.:::::::::::::::ll^ ^-sacoia. 

W 71.... Ponce de Leon 134 1 

77. . . .Argyle ( Walton Co.) 128 

For continuation of this route eastward to Tallahassee and Jacksonville see 
p. 41 ; westward to Pensacola see p. 40. 



JACKSONVILLE. 103 

10. JacksonYille, Duval Co. (C.H.) 

Population, 35,000.— Lat. 30° 24' N.— Long. 81° 40' W. 

Hotels. — (Kates are given by the day unless otherwise stated. Where rates 
are omitted no reply to inquiry has been received.) Carleton Hotel, Rooms $1 
upward ; restaurant d la carte.— Duval.— Everett.— Grand View.—Glenada, $3 
to %^.5ii.— Hotel Togni, $2.— Lafayette.— Oxford.— St. James Hotel, $4.— 2Ve- 
mont House. — Windsor Hotel, $4 and $5. 

Special rates are usually made for permanent guests, or by the week. Besides 
the hotels there are nearly 100 boardmg-houses, at $8 to $15 a week. 

Raileoads, Steamboats, etc. 

Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West System (to St. Augustine, Indian Eiver, 
Tampa, Punta Gorda, etc.). Station foot of Bridge St. (see p. 25). 

Florida, Central & Peninsula Railway (to Tallahassee, Pensacola, Fernan- 
dina. Cedar Key, Orlando, etc.). Station foot of Hogan St. (see p. 26). 

Savannah, Florida (6 Western Railway (Waycross Short Line). Station foot 
of Bridge St. (see p. 25). 

Jacksonville, Mayport & Pablo Railway & Navigation Co. (to Mayport and 
Burnside Beach). Ferry from foot of Market St. (see p. 26). 

Jacksonville & Atlantic Railroad (to Pablo Beach). Ferry from foot of New- 
nan St. (see p. 26). 

People's Line (St. John's R'.ver Steamers). Astor's .wharf , foot of Hogan St. 

De Bary Line (St. John's River Steamers). Foot of Laura St. 

Beach & Miller Line (to Fort Geo.ge, Mayport, etc.). Tyson & Co.'s wharf, 
foot of Pine St. 

Clyde Line (New York, Charleston & Florida Steamship Co.). Astor's wharf, 
foot ot Hogan St. 

Tramways, with cars at five minute intervals, run through Bay St. eastward, 
two miles to the river bank below Commodore's Point, where there are a race- 
course and one or two hotels, mainly for transient resort. Good view across and 
down the river. Westward the Bay Street line crosses McCoy's Creek into the 
suburbs. A cross-town line runs out Pine St. to the Sub-tropical Exposition 

Grounds and beyond, and another out Laura St., two miles to the suburbs of 
omerville and Warren ; uniform fare, 5c. 

Carriage rate from railroad stations and steamboat landings to any part of 
city 25c. ; luggage 25c. per piece. 

Livery. — Carriages and saddle-horses may usually be best engaged through 
the hotel clerk ; there are, however, many excellent livery stables where, if de- 
sired, special terms may be made. The following are approximately the pre- 
vailing rates : Saddle-horses, 75c. to $1.50 an hour, $3 a day ; single teams, $1.50 
an hour, $4 a day ; double teams with driver, $2 an hour, $5 upward a day. 

Boats and LaimcTies may be found at the foot of Market St. ; row-boats. 25c. 
an hour ; with attendant, $2 to $5 a day. Special bargains must be made for 
steam launches and the like, or for protracted expeditions. 

Points of Interest in Jacksonville. 

The Sub-tropical Exposition (p. 104). 

City Water- works (p. 104). 

Post Office, Bay St., cor. Market (for postage rates see p. — ). 

Banks (hours 9.30 a.m. to 2 p.m.). — Bank of Jacksonville. — First National 
Bank of Florida, cor. Bay and Ocean Sts. — State Bank of Florida. — National 
Bank, State of Florida, 16 West Bay St.— National Bank of Jacksonville.- Flor- 
ida Savings Bank and Real Estate Exchange. — ^Ambler, Marvin & Stockton. 

Cigar Manufactories. 

Fibre Works. 

Churches. — Baptist, Rev. Mr. Plummer. — Congregational, Rev. R. T, Hall, 
Hogan St. — Episcopal, St. John's, Duval St., near Market. — Methodist, St. Paul's, 
Rev. J. B. Anderson, Duval St., cor. Newnan.— Methodist, Trinity, Rev. W. S. 
Fitch, Monroe St. and City Park.— Presbyterian (North), Rev. S. W. Paine, Ocean 



104 JACKSONVILLE. 

St.— Presbyterian (South), Eev. Dr. Dodge, Newnan St.— Roman Catholic, 
Father Keeny, Newnan St. There are also a large number of small congre- 
gations, mainly negroes, scattered through the city. 

The Sub-tropical Exposition. The buildings for this an- 
nual exhibition of the products of Florida are in the City 
"Water-works Park, on Hogan Street, about three quarters of 
a mile from the river, fifteen minutes' walk from Bay Street 
and the principal hotels. Tramcars run out Hogan Street 
(fare 5c.). The exhibition proper is usually open from early 
in January till about April 1st ; 25c. general admission ; 50c. 
on special occasions, gala nights, and the like. The build- 
ings are open at all times, however, as some objects of in- 
terest always remain, even when the exhibition is closed. 
Among these are the tropical plants within the building, the 
living manatee or sea-cow in the artificial lake, with deer, 
and sometimes other Floridian animals and birds in an eij- 
closure to the west of the main building. 

In connection with the exhibition are the Jacksonville 
Water-works. The supply is drawn from artesian wells. 
The first of these was driven in 1883, and the last and deep- 
est in 1889. The water is impregnated with sulphur, and 
emits a slightly unpleasant odor when it reaches the air. 
This odor disappears almost immediately, and the water, as 
delivered to the service-pipes, is pure and wholesome. The 
strata penetrated by the last and deepest boring, 1,020 feet, 
were as follows : Sand, 20 ft. ; clay (phosphatic), 2 ft. ; co- 
quina, 20 ft. ; blue clay. 300 ft. ; fossil limestone, 2 ft. (small 
flow of sulphur water, 8 to 10 gallons a minute) ; blue clay, 
100 ft. ; fossil rock, 30 ft. ; flinty rock, 6 ft. ; open lime rock, 
yielding a strong flow of water, 100 ft. ; hard, sandy lime- 
stone, 350 ft., with a constantly increasing flow of excellent 
sulphur water. The maximum flow is 2.333 gallons a min- 
ute, lit a temperature of 78° on reaching the surface. 

Shops. The principal stores are on Bay Street, running 
for a mile near and parallel to the river. All the ordinary 
wants of travellers can be supplied here at" prices but little 
in advance of the prevailing rates in Northern cities, and it 
is often easier ^o purchase articles here than to bring them 
from a distance. 

Drives. Within the city pleasurable driving is limited to 



JACKSONVILLE. 105 

tlie wooden pavements which now cover most of the prin- 
cipal streets. As these are pleasantly shaded, and in the main 
bordered with pretty residences, they are quite popular. Out- 
side the city the shell road is the favorite drive. Follow 
Pine Street to Eighth Street, one and one-half mile from 
the Court House ; turn to the left, and follow Eighth Street, 
which presently merges in the Moncrief Springs Eoad. This 
may be followed to its junction with the shell road, through 
the La Villa precinct, and so back to town, eight miles. The 
Old King's Eoad, a relic of the days of English rule, is still 
in fairly good order for several miles out, and so is the Pan- 
ama Road, following the north bank of the river toward its 
mouth. 

On the south side of the river are charming drives on ex- 
cellent shell roads. Cross the river by ferry from foot of 
Newnan Street (moderate extra charge for horses and car- 
riages) ; follow direct road from wharf one-quarter of a mile, 
turn slightly to left, and cross railway. This is the old road 
to St. Augustine and beyond, constructed under the admin- 
istration of the British Governor, James Grant (1765). Per- 
mission may be obtained at the gate lodge, one mile from fer- 
ry, to drive through the private grounds of Villa Alexandria. 
Eastward the road leads to Devins Point, Arlington Creek, etc. 
It is recommended not to diverge far from the shell roads, 
as the sand makes heavy work for horses. In the saddle, how- 
ever, any of the wood roads may be comfortably followed. 

History. 

The site of Jacksonville became important to aboriginal 
tribes long before the advent of Europeans. At this point 
the St. John's Eiver, after flowing for more than two hun- 
dred miles in a tortuous northerly course, makes a sharp 
bend to the eastward, and falls into the ocean twenty miles 
below the city. The elbow of the river formed a natural 
rendezvous for tribal expeditions for war or the chase, and 
the existence of shell and burial mounds in the vicinity at- 
tests its frequent, perhaps permanent occupation. The Ind- 
ians knew it as " Wacca Pilatka," Cow's Crossing, whence its 



106 JACKSONVILLE. 

early Englisli name, " Cow's Ford." The French and Span- 
iards were not road builders, but during colonial times the 
English built what was known as the King's Eoad from St. 
Augustine and points still farther south. Cow's Ford was 
the natural crossing point, and the King's Road served as 
the highway for the pioneer. The early Indian and Span- 
ish wars antedated the existence of Jacksonville. During 
the war for independence on the part of the Northern Col- 
onies, Florida was, if anything, royalist in sentiment. 

In 1816, Florida, having passed again from British to 
Spanish rule, one Lewis Z. Hogans, a settler on the south 
side of the river, married a Spanish widow, Dona Maria 
Suavez by name, who held a grant of two hundred acres on 
the present site of Jacksonville. Moving to his wife's land, 
Hogans was ready to reap the benefit of the tide of immi- 
gration that began in a small way soon after the transfer of 
the territory to the United States in 1819. A ferry was es- 
tablished, and an inn opened in 1820, by John Brady, and by 
1822 it became necessary to plan for the future. Streets were 
accordingly laid out, and a town government was organized. 

The town was formally incorporated in 1833, and named 
after General Andrew Jackson, Governor of Florida prior to 
its organization as a territory, and afterward President of 
the United States. Until 1835 the town grew with consider- 
able rapidity, but with the outbreak of the Seminole War 
(see p. ) in that year its ]Drosperity was checked. It be- 
came for the time a place of refuge ; blockhouses were 
erected and a garrison was maintained, until 1842, when the 
Seminoles were subdued. 

With the return of j)eace, the town resumed its growth. 
It was the natural port of entry for all traffic from the ocean, 
and the distributing point for such overland commerce as 
sought an outlet by sea. In 1860 the i3opulation was 2,118, 
the lumber interest had assumed important proportions, and, 
as a shipping point for all Florida produce, Jacksonville was 
without a rival. The Civil War (1861 to 1865) checked this 
era of prosperity. 

The Confederate authorities gamsoned the place, but no 
considerable measures were taken for its defence. On March 



JACKSONVILLE. . 107 

11, 1862, the United States gunboats, Ottawa, Seneca, and 
Pembina crossed the bar at some risk. The next daj, with 
several lighter draft vessels that had joined, the squadron 
steamed up to Jacksonville, which was peacefully surren- 
dered by the city authorities. The small Confederate force 
that had been in possession retreated to the interior. The 
report of Lieutenant T. H. Stevens, commanding the United 
States squadron, avers that he found many smouldering 
ruins of mills, houses, and other property that had been 
recently burned, while the Confederates charge the destruc- 
tion of property to the Federals. 

Fortifications were erected and it was announced that the 
place would be permanently held by United States forces. 
Under this assurance a meeting of citizens, held on March 
20th, repudiated the ordinance of secession, and called for a 
convention to reorganize a State government under the laws of 
the United States. Four days afterward, March 24th, there 
was another meeting, pursuant to adjournment, at which a call 
for a convention was issued in due form. 

Notwithstanding all this, however, there came an order 
on April 10th, withdrawing the whole force, and sending it 
North on what was deemed more important service. Many 
of the inhabitants who had declared their allegiance to the 
United States Government feared to remain, and were given 
transportation to the North. 

On October 4th of the same year Jacksonville was again 
occupied for a short time by a Federal force under General 
Brannan, and again abandoned. 

An expedition, consisting of the First Regiment of South 
Carolina Volunteers, Colonel T. W. Higginson commanding, 
and a portion of the Second South Carolina Volunteers, under 
Colonel Montgomery, reoccupied Jacksonville on March 10, 
1863. These troops were negroes, lately slaves, and were 
recruited in South Carolina. They were among the first of 
the regiments of colored troops afterward organized in the 
service of the United States. Jacksonville was at this time 
merely a picket station, a considerable body of Confederate 
troops being encamped some eight miles to the westward. 
The purpose of this expedition, as stated in the report of 



108 JACKSONVILLE. 

General Saxton, was to establish a base of operations in 
Florida, and harass the enemy more by inviting enlistments 
of negroes than by active operations, Tlie three transports 
conveying the troops came up the river under convoy of a 
gunboat. No opposition was met with, the transports made 
fast to the wharves, and the men jumped ashore without 
waiting for the gang-plank. There was much consternation 
among the few remaining inhabitants, on the unexpected 
arrival of the dreaded negro soldiers, but, as a general thing, 
they were kept well in hand during the period of their stay. 

On March 23d, the Confederates mounted a gun on a plat- 
form car, and ran it down the track within range of the city. 
On the next day the experiment was repeated, and several 
buildings were struck by shells. On March 26th, a strong 
reconnoitering party marched out along the railroad, under 
command of Colonel Higginson. They had a brush with the 
enemy, losing a few men about four miles from the town. 
To the surprise of all connected with the expedition, an 
order for the abandonment of Jacksonville was received, and 
on March 31st the United States forces were withdrawn. 
At this time there occurred an act of vandalism, the respon- 
sibility for which could never be fixed. A mania for firing 
buildings seemed to seize upon the stragglers and camp fol- 
lowers who managed to escape from the control of their ofli- 
cers. A high wind was blowing, and Jacksonville was almost 
wholly destroyed. The fleet steamed away, leaving the place 
in flames. Even at the North the management of this expedi- 
tion, involving, as it did, the needless occupation and abandon- 
ment of a partly loyal city, provoked severe condemnation. 

On the afternoon of February 7, 1864, the few remaining 
inhabitants of Jacksonville, not much more than one hundred 
souls in ail, saw the not unfamiliar spectacle of a gunboat, 
with her crew at quarters in front of the city. A few shots 
were fired by the small detachment of Confederates on duty, 
when companies of the Fifty-fourth Massachusetts and the 
Eighth United States Colored Troops landed and took pos- 
session. This was the most formidable expedition that 
landed at Jacksonville during the war, numbering about five 
thousand men, well supplied with cavalry and artillery. 



JACKSONVILLE. 109 

Pausing only long enough to land their material, and leaving 
an adequate garrison, the command pushed on at once along 
the line of the railroad toward Lake City, and met the crush- 
ing defeat at Olustee, described on page — . 

The defeated Federals fell back upon their fortifications 
at Jacksonville, and occupied them until the close of the war 
in 1865. The river was patrolled by gunboats, and no serious 
attack was afterward made by the Confederates. 

Immediately after the restoration of peace, large quanti- 
ties of cotton, which had been stored for safety in the sur- 
rounding country, sought Jacksonville as a convenient port 
of shipment, and since that time her commercial prosperity 
has been assured. 

Jacksonville has been a popular winter resort for Northern 
visitors ever since it became readily accessible to travellers. 
The tract on which it stands was originally what is known 
as rolling pine land, having good surface drainage to the 
river in front, and to McCoy's and Hogan's Creeks on either 
side. The natural drainage, however, is mainly through the 
sandy soil, into which the heaviest rains disappear at once, 
leaving the surface practically dry. The streets and public 
squares are well shaded with live oaks, water oaks, and other 
native trees, and in the gardens of many of the private 
houses are orange, lemon, lime, magnolia, and other semi- 
tropical trees and shrubs generally unfamiliar to the North- 
ern visitor. 

Many of the orange trees in the streets and elsewhere are 
of the bitter variety, cultivated merely for ornament and 
shade. The fruit is not usually considered edible, though 
it is used in the preparation of certain beverages, preserves, 
and the like. 

The uninitiated Northern visitor often learns the difference 
between sweet and bitter oranges by practical experience, 
for he is told to help himself freely from any of the trees 
in the public streets or squares. 

The climate of Jacksonville is that of the North Florida 
Atlantic sea-coast (seep. — ). The city is near enough to 
the ocean to enjoy its influence in regard to temperature, 
while the force of the northeasterly gales that are occasion- 



110 JACKSONVILLE. 

ally experienced is sensibly diminished by the intervening 
belt of timber. 

As a centre from which excursions can be made, Jackson- 
ville is especially convenient, since all the principal railroad 
and steamboat lines diverge from this point (see p. 103). 

The principal streets are paved with the Wyckoflf cypress 
pavement, laid with cross sections of cypress logs set on end, 
arranged according to size, and having the interstices filled 
with cement. The streets not so paved are deep with the 
native sand of the locality, or perhaps rendered a degree 
less impassable by means of certain waste material from the 
fibre factories. Wooden sidewalks are almost universal, ex- 
cept on the main business streets. 



EXCUKSIONS. 

11. Jacksonville to St. Aug-ustine. 
J., T. & K. W. Ry., 36 miles by railway (1 hour 40 minutes). 

The train passes almost directly from the station to the 
fine drawbridge across the St. John's River. This bridge 
was opened in 1889. It is of steel throughout, with a total 
length of 1,320 feet. The draw is 320 feet long. 

South Jacksonville occupies the point of land formed by 
the bend in the river. It has 800 inhabitants, and is becom- 
ing an attractive suburb. It contains many handsome resi- 
dences. Here terminated the southern section of the Old 
King's Eoad from St. Augustine, built by the English under 
the administration of Governor Grant (1765). The road is still 
in use. It may be seen to the left of the track as the train 
moves away from the river. For a short time the line passes 
through a scattered growth of oaks, magnolias, and other 
hard wood trees, interspersed with occasional orange groves. 
Then it enters the pines, slightly rolling at first, but grad- 
ually falling off into the flat woods and belts of hammock 
that border the sea-coast. For stations and distances see p. 
85. Between Jacksonville and St. Augustine there are no 
important towns, but the soil is productive, and considerable 
shipments of agricultural j)roducts are made. Between 



JACKSONVILLE. HI 

Sweetwater and Bayard the line crosses Arlington Creek, a 
tributary of the St. John's. A little south of Sampson it 
passes near St. Mary's pond, shortly after which the prairies 
bordering the Tolomato River, open to the south and east, 
and soon the towers and orange-trees of St. Augustine are 
visible beyond. 

Tourists whose time is limited, may visit St. Augustine 
and return to Jacksonville the same day, having about five 
hours for sight-seeing. 

Engage a carriage at the station. Drive to principal points 
of interest (see p. 133). Visit Fort Marion (see p. 157). 
Lunch, inspect the Alameda group of hotels, visit Anastasia 
Island or the North Beach (connection by rail with the latter 
from Union Station). To accomplish all this in five hours ad- 
mits of no loitering, and is not recommended. So hasty a 
visit should only be undertaken rather than lose a look at 
the ancient city altogether. 



12. Jacksonville to Fernandina. 

By F. O. & P. Ry., 37 miles (1 hour 40 minutes). 

Passing through the suburbs of Jackson\'ille, the line runs 
nearly due north, crossing Trout Creek (five miles) a short 
distance above its junction with the St. John's. Three miles 
farther Cedar Creek is passed, and beyond this is the rolling 
pine forest of Duval County. Six miles north of Duval sta- 
tion is Nassau River (see p. 131), and at Hart's Road Junction, 
the line curves to the eastward. The station takes its name 
from a contractor who cut a military road through the then 
unbroken forest during the early Indian wars. Six miles 
farther it crosses Amelia River on a trestle whose predecessor 
was burned during the Civil War (see p. 129), and then turns 
to the northward, soon coming in sight of Fernandina. 

Tourists who have but a short time at their disposal may 
drive about the city and see the chief points of interest dur- 
ing the five or six hours that intervene before the return 
train. For description of Fernandina and vicinity see p. 127. 
Consult local time-tables. 



112 JACKSONVILLE. 



13. Mayport and Bumside Beach. 

Part steamboat, part rail. Ferry from foot of Pine Street, Jacksonville. 
Boat connects with Mayport & Pablo Railway & Navigation Co. at both ends 
of line. Twenty miles (1 hour 15 minutes). Fare, 50c. ; round trip, $1. Con- 
sult local time-tables. 

The liver below Jacksonville is described in detail, p. 117. 
The steam ferryboat from Market Street rounds Commo- 
dore's Point, and connects with the Mayport & Pablo Kail- 
way on the south bank of the river, three miles. Landings 
are sometimes made on signal, at intermediate wharves. 
The conspicuous grove at the mouth of Arlington Creek, 
is Empire Point, sometimes called Devins' Point, the coun- 
try seat of General A. S. Devins, of Boston. 

The railway soon enters the pine woods, and for ten miles 
there are only occasional openings. The line then crosses a 
wide prairie intersected by Pablo Creek and Mt. Pleasant 
Creek. The clumps of dark cedars scattered along the prairie 
mark the site of shell mounds, the work of XDrehistoric In- 
dian tribes. 

Beyond the prairie the train enters a fine palm hammock. 
Here the newly arrived visitor from the North often makes 
his first acquaintance with the lofty cabbage-palm in its 
native habitat. The hammock extends to the edge of the 
beach. The train runs directly to a platform connected with 
the Pavilion and hotels, where good entertainment can be had. 
Bumside Beach is largely frequented by excursionists from 
Jacksonville and the interior (Palmetto Hotel, ^7 to $10 a 
week). The beach is at present making slowly out to sea- 
ward, so that there is quite a stretch of dry sand before the 
hard, level, wave-washed bathing-beach can be reached. 
Looking south one may see the large hotel at Pablo Beach, 
six miles (see p. 114). Wheelmen often ride from Burnside 
or Mayport to Pablo Beach, whence there is a railway back 
to Jacksonville. The beach is admirable for driving, but 
teams should be secured by telegraph to avoid delay. In 
arranging for a walk or ride between Pablo and Burnside, 
the time of tide should be considered, and the start made 
just after the tide has begun to run ebb. This will insure a 



JACKSONVILLE. 113 

roadway of ample width for several hours, or until the tide 
again approaches high water mark. 

From Burnside the train backs to Mayport, two miles, 
keeping just inside the line of sand dunes, between which 
pretty glimpses of the ocean are caught from time to time. 

Mayport, at the mouth of the St. John's Eiver, is so called 
from the name given by the French, in 1562, * ' La Riviere 
de Mai," before the SjDaniards took possession. There is no 
large hotel in the place, but meals and rooms can be had at 
the Burrows House, near the railroad. 

The town has about five hundred inhabitants. There is 
much picturesque life to be seen along shore among the 
fishermen and men engaged in constructing mattresses for 
the jetties (see p. 117). Toward the sea-beach are numer- 
ous summer cottages, belonging, for the most part, to city 
residents. From the lighthouse a good view of the river 
is obtainable. 

The fishing industry at Mayport is of considerable im- 
portance. Shad begin running up the river as early as Jan- 
uary, and are taken in seines in large quantities ; as many as 
ten thousand are said to have been taken in one day. There 
is a tradition among fishermen at the river mouth that shad 
are never known to go to sea again. At all events, that they 
are never taken going out. Some of the fishermen believe 
that the shad perish in the upper reaches of the river. The 
shad season continues till April, and, when perfectly fresh 
from the water, the fish compare favorably with their North- 
ern brethren. 

The sand composing the Mayport dunes is of a peculiarly 
white, fine quality. It drifts like snow across the railroad, 
and great mounds move to and fro, sometimes burying 
houses and trees in their course. Near Mayport the Span- 
iards built a fort which was taken and destroyed by Dome- 
nique de Gourgues, in 1565 (see p. 120). 

The conspicuous group of buildings on a large shell 
mound on the opposite side of the river is a mill for grind- 
ing shells for fertilizing purposes. It is possible sometimes 
to purchase Indian relics from the superintendent or work- 
men, but the supply is very uncertain. Small boats may ba 



114 JACKSONVILLE. 

hired at Mayport or Pilot Town, with or without attendants, 
to explore the neighboring shores and inlets. 

Fort George Island and Batten Island are on the opposite 
side of the river, and may be reached by row-boat or ferry. 

A pleasant excursion from Jacksonville is to go to May- 
port by rail as above, and return by boat, or vice versa. 
Tickets are available by either route. 



14. Pablo Beach. 

Hotel, Murray Hall, $2.50 to $4 a day. By JacksonvilJLe & Atlantic Eailroad, 
ferry from foot of Newnan Street, Jacksonville, 17 miles (fifty-five minutes). 

The line is nearly straight to the eastward, from South Jack- 
sonville, passing a few unimportant stations in the pine for- 
est, and crossing a wide prairie just before reaching the coast. 
The village of Pablo is mainly a seaside resort, with a fine 
hotel, and a superb bathing-beach three hundred feet wide 
at low tide. The seaward slope of this beach is only eight 
inches in one hundred feet, so that to the eye it is appar- 
ently level, and as the beach is absolutely free from irregu- 
larities, the bathing is safe, even for children. Sand dunes 
covered with beach-scrub and occasional cabbage-palms de- 
fine the shore line, and for a mile these are crowned with 
cottages, hotels, and othei: buildings suited to a seaside re- 
sort, among them a sanitarium belonging to a large Catho- 
lic institution of Jacksonville. The large hotel, Murray Hall, 
is cleverly contrived to give its guests all possible advantage 
of its fine situation, the parlor windows commanding an out- 
look to sea, northward up the beach to Mayport, and south- 
ward till the breaking surf and the gray beach disappear in 
the haze. 

Carriages and horses for riding and driving on the beach 
can be had from a well-furnished livery stable, at reasonable 
rates. Visitors for the day have ample time for an exhilarat- 
ing drive on the beach in either direction, and it is possible 
even to drive to Burnside or Mayport, and return to town 
either by boat or rail from one of those points. 



JACKSONVILLE. 115 



15. Jacksonville to Green Cove Springs. 

By J., T. & K. W. Ry. from foot of Bridge Street, 29 miles (1 hour 15 min- 
utes), or by steamboat. 

By consulting local time-tables, connections can be made, 
so as to vary the trip, going by rail and returning by boat. 
It is recommended to return by boat, as the afternoon hours 
are pleasant on the river. For description of this part of St. 
John's Eiver see p. 184 ; for Green Cove Springs see p. 187. 



16. Fort George Island. 

This is the most southerly of the Sea Islands, lying just 
north of the St. John's River. It is most directly reached 
by boat down the St. John's from Tyson & Co.'s wharf, foot 
of Pine Street, Jacksonville. If preferred, however, the 
tourist may go by rail to Mayport (see p. 112), and cross 
thence in a small boat. The steamers land at Pilot Town, on 
Batten Island. Here are a number of cottages and houses, 
at some of which board and lodging may be obtained at $7 
to $10 a week. A short distance west of the steamboat wharf 
is a Coquina ruin, of no great antiquity, but interesting for 
its picturesqueness. Others of the same kind are scattered 
about the neighborhood. On this island was the Spanish 
fort gallantly taken by De Gourgues and his Indian allies, as 
described on p. 124. 

If a visit to Fort George is intended, it is well to telegraph 
in advance for conveyances, to K. Spencer, Postmaster, Fort 
George. The roads on these islands are smooth, hard, and 
level, winding among a magnificent hammock growth, with 
occasional glimpses of the sea, or of extensive island-studded 
prairies. 

A causeway crosses the creek to Fort George Island, one 
of the most attractive localities on this part of the coast. It 
is in area about two miles square. The eastern shore facing 
the ocean has a broad stretch of white sand beach, backed 
by a range of high dunes generally covered with scrub. 
The heavily wooded central ridge of the island rises to a con- 
siderable height. The highest point is Mount Cornelia, on 



116 JACKSONVILLE. 

which, is an observatory, whence is a fine outlook over the 
neighboring marshes, rivers, and ocean. The square top of 
this observatory is visible twelve to fifteen miles at sea. The 
hill, or " mount," on which it stands is the most prominent 
natural landmark anywhere on the Southern coast, and has 
been, since the days of the early explorers, the mark by 
which the entrance to the St. John's Eiver was recognized 
by mariners. 

The island was originally settled by one McQueen, a 
Scotchman, who probably named it after some locality in his 
native land. Then it was purchased by a wealthy Southerner, 
Kingsley by name, who made it an ideal plantation of the 
old school, maintaining an army of slaves, and largely culti- 
vating cotton and other marketable products. The home- 
stead, somewhat modernized, still stands, with its negro 
quarters and outbuildings near the northern end of the isl- 
and, with a fine avenue of venerable moss-draped cedars in 
front and along the river side. 

After the Civil War the family, pressed for money, sold the 
whole xjroperty for $7,500, and shortly afterward four hun- 
dred acres were sold to a Boston company, who erected a 
large house — the Fort George Hotel — which for many years 
was a favorite resort for Northern visitors. This was burned 
May 1, 1889, and has not yet been rebuilt. Many handsome 
private houses have been built at desirable points along the 
sea front, and many wealthy Northern people make this their 
home during the winter months. 

The whole island is intersected with a charmingly irregular 
network of roads, admirable for riding, driving, or walking, 
and there are few more enjoyable experiences in Florida than 
an exploration of these magnificent woods. 



JACKSONVILLE. 117 

17. St. John's River. 

Called Welaka (chain of lakes) by the Indians, Eivi^re de 
Mai by the French (1562), St. John's Kiver by the Spanish 
(1564). This is the largest stream in Florida. It rises in 
a vast tract of uncharted and unnamed lakes and marshes 
near the Atlantic coast in Brevard and Osceola Counties, 
about in latitude 28° 10' N., and flows northward, in a di- 
rection generally parallel to the coast, but exceedingly tor- 
tuous when considered in detail, a distance of nearly three 
hundred miles. It falls into the sea in latitude 30° 25' N,, 
between Fort George and Batten Islands on the north, and 
the mainland on the south. Between this point and St. 
Augustine Inlet, forty-two miles south, the mainland abuts 
uj^on the ocean, a condition rarely found on the South At- 
lantic sea-coast. Almost everywhere else a system of islands 
or peninsulas lies a short distance off the coast, affording 
sheltered navigation by an inside route. In this case the 
St. John's Kiver goes far to make good the lack of the usual 
channel, for vessels drawing five feet can ascend about two 
hundred and thirty miles, where they are only about seven 
miles from the tide-water of Indian Eiver. 

The bar at the mouth of the river is one of the most 
treacherous on the coast, although the construction of jetties 
was begun in 1880 and still continues. Prior to this large 
sums were ineffectually expended in dredging. The orig- 
inal plans called for about one thousand feet of jetties, 
extending in an easterly direction from deep water inside 
the bar. It was thought that the scour of the tides would 
thus keep clear a channel of ample width, and with 15 feet 
depth at low water. The jetties had been carried out, 
according to the latest oflScial figures, more than 3,000 feet 
on the north side of the channel, and about 7,000 feet on the 
south side. The contractor reports 20 feet at high water. 
The mean rise and fall of the tide at the bar is 4 feet 6 inches. 

St. John's River Light is a red brick tower with black lan- 
terns, 80 feet above sea level, showing a fixed white light of 
the third order, visible 15 miles at sea (Lat. 30° 23' 37", 
Long. 81" 25' 27"). 



118 JACKSONVILLE. 

Approaching from sea and looking southward along the 
beach, the houses and wharves of Mayport are seen on the 
left, with the works on shore where the jetty mattresses are 
made and launched. Farther to the south are the hotels and 
cottages of Burnside Beach and Pablo Beach (see p. 114). 
On the right of the entrance are Batten Island and Fort 
George Island (see p. 115) joined by a causeway. The cluster 
of buildings is on Batten Island. It includes the pilot and 
telegraph station, and some interesting and picturesque old 
Coquina ruins. On both points of the river mouth forts 
were erected about 1566 (see p. 124). After crossing the 
bar, the most conspicuous natural object is St. John's Bluff, 
with precipitous sand-slopes toward the river, and crowned 
with dense woods. Elsewhere on all sides stretch wide 
marshes, beautiful in color at times, and dotted here and 
there with tree-covered islands, which are often shell mounds 
of unknown antiquity, sometimes containing relics of j)re- 
historic races much sought after by the antiquarian. 

Just under the bluff a small creek makes into the river 
from the southward. This is navigable for row-boats for 
several miles, and at flood tide affords a pleasant trip, par- 
ticularly in the afternoon, when the shadow of the bluff falls 
across it from the westward. About five miles up are ruins 
of abandoned rice plantations, with old sluice-gates, and evi- 
dences of former cultivation. St. John's Bluff is believed to 
be the site of old Fort Caroline, subsequently Fort Mateo (see 
p. 121). Traces of ancient fortifications of considerable ex- 
tent still exist, mingled with the half-obliterated earthworks 
thrown up by the Confederates during the Civil War. The 
bluff has been washed away by the river, carrying with it the 
remains of the old Spanish citadel and the main works. 
The position was fortified by the Confederates in the 
winter of 1861-62. On September 17, 1862, a fleet of six 
United States gunboats crossed the bar, and for some hours 
vigorously shelled the woods and batteries about St. John's 
Bluff. They dismounted or disabled some of the guns, and 
damaged the breastworks. No landing was attempted. 

On October 2, 1862, an expedition consisting of seven gun- 
boats from Commodore Dupont's fleet, and esccrting a de- 



JACKSONVILLE. 119 

tacliment of 1,500 troops, attacked the Confederate fortifica- 
tions on St. John's Bluff. The Confederates soon abandoned 
the works, leaving 9 guns and a considerable quantity of 
munitions of war, which fell into the hands of the Federal 
forces. 

Beyond St. John's Bluff the river widens to three-quarters 
of a mile. Pablo Creek and Mount Pleasant Creek find 
their way through the marshes from the southward in the order 
named, and Sister's Creek, Hannah Mills Creek, and Cedar 
Point Creek from the northward in the order named. These 
are all navigable for several miles, but are not attractive ex- 
cept to sportsmen, as they are for the most part bordered by 
marshes. A wooded shore, with a settlement known as the 
Slnpyard, borders the river for a mile above St, John's Bluff. 
A chain of marshy islands occupies the middle of the river for 
about two miles, with Clapboard Creek and Brown's Creek on 
the north shore. Beyond Long Island, the last of the marshy 
series, the river widens into Mill Cove, and bends to the 
southwest. Dame's Point Light ajDpears about two miles 
distant. This is an iron structure, j)ainted red, with white 
upper works, standing on a shoal in mid-stream, with deep 
water on both sides. It shows a fixed white light, visible 
eleven miles. A mile below the light is Yellow Bluff (P. O., 
New Berlin), a village of a dozen houses, standing among 
t]-ees on a bluff some thirty feet high. 

Above this the stream widens to near two miles, with the 
channel close to the northern shore, and trends to the north- 
ward and westward. Dunn's Creek enters from the eastward 
two miles above Dame's Point, with a peculiar group of pine 
trees on its eastern bank. One mile farther is Drummond's 
Point, between Cedar Creek on the east and Drummond's 
Creek on the west. Here the river turns again to the south- 
ward, and St. John's Mills is seen about two miles distant. 
The stream that enters from the westward is Trout Creek. 
At the south side of its mouth is Sandfly Point, and opposite, 
across the St. John's, is Eeddies Point, marshy near the water, 
but with high land and numerous houses among the trees at 
a little distance. 

The next stretch of river is about four miles, trending 



120 JACKSONVILLE. 

southward. Just south of Eeddies Point is Chaseville, a 
small town with a wharf. The easterly bank is high and 
heavily wooded. Here Pottsburg Creek enters from the 
eastward. On the west bank, four miles distant, is Commo- 
dore's Point, with Jacksonville showing beyond. On the 
south bank is the landing of the Jacksonville, Mayport & 
Pablo Beach Eailway & Navigation Company. Opposite Com- 
modore's Point is Arlington Eiver, with the village of Arling- 
ton to the north of the mouth, and Empire Point, with General 
A. S. Divens' residence opposite. Many other handsome coun- 
try places line the east bank of the river in this vicinity. 
Rounding Commodore's Point the city is in sight, with the 
bridge of the Jacksonville, Tampa & Key West Railway sys- 
tem crossing the river to Oklahoma and South Jacksonville. 
For description of Jacksonville and vicinity see p. 103. 



Domenique de Gourgues. 

There is not in all history material for a more romantic, 
pitiful, tragic, and heroic drama than was enacted along the 
placid reaches of the lower St. John. Somewhere beneath 
these shifting sands may still lie the stone cross, carved with 
the fleur-de-lis of France, that Jean Ribaut raised when he 
discovered the river in 1562. Fragments of arms and armor 
are still found from time to time on the sites of the old 
SiDanish forts. 

The first discoverers made their welcome harbor here on 
the first day of May, and named the river in honor of that 
month, but the name subsequently given by the Spaniards 
superseded "La Riviere de Mai" of the Huguenots. 

Perhaps Ribaut took a rose-colored view of the land after 
his long sea-voyage in a crowded ship, but he certainly was 
enamoured of the climate and country. " To bee short," he 
vn'ote in his journal, as done into English (the original is not 
known to exist), "it is a thing unspeakable to consider the 
things that bee scene there, and shalbe founde more and 
more in this incomperable land" (Hackit's Eng. Transla- 
tion of 1582). He did not long remain here, however, but, 
on June 25, 1564, another French squadron of three ships 



JACKSONVILLE. 121 

Tinder Eibaut's lieutenant, Rene de Laudonni^re, anchored 
off the bar, and were welcomed by Satouriona, the powerful 
chief of thirty neighboring villages. The Indians had care- 
fully preserved, and even sacrificed to Eibaut's cross with its 
mystic symbols. St. John's Bluff is the supposed site of 
Fort Caroline, which the French forthwith proceeded to 
build. The climate at once exercised its spell upon the 
members of the expedition even in the heat of July, and 
their accounts of the region are enthusiastic. Venerable In- 
dians were said to have been seen who claimed to be two 
and a half centuries old, and expected to live thirty or forty 
years more. The Indians, after some demur, helped in 
building the fort, which is depicted by Le Moyne, the 
special artist of the expedition, in his illustrated narra- 
tive. The Indians were agriculturists, though, like all 
savages, they had their intertribal wars, and Satouriona was 
glad of European allies. When the fort was finished the 
French Protestants, eager for gold as were their Si^anish 
contemporaries, pushed their explorations inland, and 
formed other Indian alliances. Complications and threats 
of war followed, and during the winter of 1564-65 dis- 
satisfaction, conspiracy, and mutiny developed in the little 
garrison of the fort, Laudonniere fell ill, provisions ran 
short, the mutineers took possession under the leadershij) 
of one Fourneaux, and plans were formed for buccaneer- 
ing expeditions against the Spanish West Indies. After a 
partly successful, but finally disastrous cruise, the bucca- 
neers returned to Fort Caroline, and three of the leaders 
were tried and executed. Their bodies were hanged on gib- 
bets as a warning to future mutineers. 

By May 1, 1565, the French neared the end of their re- 
sources. In a land ready to yield an hundred-fold not an 
acre had been tilled.' The hosi^itality and resources of the 
Indians were well-nigh exhausted, and the colony watched 
wearily for reinforcements that had been promised from 
France. 

By dint of threats and persuasions, Laudonnifere managed 
to wrest provisions enough from the Indians to carry his men 
through the summer. They were building a new ship, in the 



122 JACKSONVILLE. 

hope of escaping from the now hated land of their exile, 
when, on August 3d, four ships appeared in the offing, which 
j)roved to be the English squadron of Sir John Hawkins, 
who had been on a successful slave-hunting expedition to 
the coast of Guinea. Hatred of the Spaniard was a senti- 
ment common to French Huguenot and English freebooter, 
and the visit of Hawkins seemed most opportune. He 
Warned them of an intended Spanish attack, renewed their 
store of provisions, and sold them a ship in which, with their 
other vessels, they might hoj)e to reach France. Prepara- 
tions for departure were hastened, when, on August 28th, 
another fleet appeared. It was Eibaut with the long-expected 
reinforcements. All seemed favorable for the establishment 
of a prosperous colony, when, to quote a graphic sentence 
from Parkman, "at half-past eleven on the night of Tues- 
day, September 4th, the crew of Eibaut's flag-ship, an- 
chored on the still sea outside the bar, saw a huge hulk, grim 
with the throats of cannon, drifting toward them through 
the gloom; and from its stern rolled on the sluggish air 
the portentous banner of Spain." It was the San Pelayo, 
flagship of Pedro Menendez, accompanied by five other 
vessels bearing five hundred soldiers, and commissioned to 
exterminate the Lutheran colony. The French ships were 
not ready for a night engagement, so when the Spaniards 
cleared for action, they slipped their cables and escaped to 
sea, keeping up a running fire as they went. Menendez 
pursued, but the French outsailed him, and when he re- 
turned he found such preparations made for defence that he 
dared not risk an attack. Accordingly he sailed southward, 
rejoined the rest of his squadron, and founded St. Augustine 
(see p. 135). Here, then, were two "Christian" colonies on 
the edge of an unknown continent, three thousand miles 
from home, each plotting for the other's destruction. 

Eibaut was the first to make a move. After a council of 
war, he sailed for St. Augustine with almost all his able- 
bodied men on September 10th, was caught in a hurricane 
and wrecked near Cape Canaveral. Nearly all escaped with 
their lives, but were brutally massacred by the Spaniards at 
Matanzas (see p. 178). The paltry garrison under Laudon- 



JACKSONVILLE. 123 

niere left in Fort Caroline numbered nearly two Imndred, 
few of them fit to bear arms, and sheltered behind a half- 
dismantled fort. When Menendez, from the redoubt at 
St. Augustine, saw the French straining every nerve to 
work off shore in the teeth of an easterly gale, he con- 
ceived and acted upon the bold idea of destroying Fort Caro- 
line during their absence. Contrary to the advice of his of- 
ficers and priests, he marched on this hazardous errand with 
five hundred men. The storm continued, but at daybreak 
on September 20th, after an arduous march of three days, 
during which only the iron will and fanatical exaltation of 
Menendez j)revented open revolt, they found themselves in 
sight of Fort Caroline. Vigilance was somewhat relaxed by 
the guards as day drew on. Menendez, seeing his oppor- 
tunity, gave the word, and his men rushed, shouting their war 
cry "Santiago!" upon the nearly defenceless Frenchmen. 
Besistance was made only by a few. Laudonniere, Le Moyne 
the artist, and Challeaux the carpenter, all of whom wrote ac- 
counts of their experiences, escaped to the woods, where they 
were joined by others, twenty-six in all, and succeeded event- 
ually in reaching the small vessels anchored inside the bar. 
At the fort the work of extermination was concluded with the 
conscientious fidelity that characterized the religious wars of 
the jperiod. One hundred and forty-two souls were slain, and 
their savagely mutilated remains piled upon the river bank. 
Fifty, including women, infants, and boys under fifteen were 
spared. 

It was generally reported and believed in France that Me- 
nendez hanged a number of those who had surrendered, and 
placed over them this inscription: "I do this not as to 
Frenchmen, but as to Lutherans." 

Leaving a strong garrison in the captured fort, which was 
renamed San Mateo, Menendez marched back to St. Augus- 
tine, where he was soon destined to deal with others of the 
hated Lutherans. 

On September 25th, the escaped survivors of the Fort Car- 
oline massacre sailed for France in two vessels, and, arriving 
in due course, spread the news of the savage deeds of the 
Spaniards throughout the kingdom. 



12 J: JACKSONVILLE. 

There was boundless indignation in France, but the king 
— Charles IX. — was afraid of his powerful neighbor, and 
would do nothing to avenge the insult. When his policy of 
inaction became evident, a private gentleman of France, a 
tried soldier, Domenique de Gourgues by name, resolved to 
take the matter into his own hands. He purchased three 
vessels with his own means, equipped them, manned them 
with one hundred and eighty soldiers and sailors, and set 
forth on a crusade as romantic and more desperate than that 
for the Holy Sepulchre. It was not until he reached Ameri- 
can waters early in 1568 that he told his men the true pur- 
pose of the expedition, and succeeded in an impassioned 
speech in arousing their enthusiasm and gaining their con- 
sent. Passing within sight of the Sj)anish forts on the St. 
John's, exchanging salutes with them, indeed, De Gourgues 
sailed to the St. Mary's Kiver or thereabout, and landing 
found the Indians ripe for war against the Spaniards. The 
chief was Satouriona, formerly the friend of Eibaut. 

It took the Indians three days to muster for the onslaught 
and perform their usual incantations. Then, leaving a small 
guard with the ships, de Gourgues and his Indian allies 
moved to the attack by way of Amelia Sound, to what is now 
Fort George Island. 

The Spaniards had partly completed a fort near the pres- 
ent site of Pilot Town, and to this de Gourgues first directed 
his attention, keeping his men concealed till the tide 
ebbed, so that they could wade the inlet. Fortune favored 
his movements, and at noon he dashed upon the unfinished 
defences with such vigor that not one of sixty Spaniards 
within the works made his escape. Olotoraca, a young chief, 
the son of Satouriona, who accompanied de Gourgues as 
guide, shed the first blood. Leaping the ditch with a French 
pike in his hand, he transfixed a Spanish cannoneer just as he 
was discharging his gun. The surprise and the victory were 
complete, and, save a few reserved for a more terrible fate, 
in remembrance of the acts of Menendez, all were put to 
the sword. 

On the opposite shore, near where Mayport now stands, 
the Spaniards had another fort, which at once opened fire on 



JACKSONVILLE. 125 

the victorious French. One of de Gonrgues' boats capable 
of carrying eighty men, was pushed across under fire, and, 
burning with hatred for the Spaniard, the Indian allies of 
the French, each holding his bow and arrows above his 
head, dashed into the water and swam to the south bank. 
The sight was too much for the Spaniards ; they forsook the 
fort, and attempted to reach the forest, forgetting in their 
panic that the French had already landed. De Gourgues 
met them with his arquebusiers and pikemen, and, before 
they could rally for an organized onset, the Indians swarmed 
across the sands and attacked with such fury that the French 
could only rescue fifteen to be resei'ved for a more deliberate 
vengeance. 

The next day was Sunday — the Sunday after Easter — and 
the Lutherans kept it by making scaling-ladders for the as- 
sault on Fort San Mateo. The Indians held the woods back 
of the fort so effectually that no Spaniard could venture out- 
side the works. Nevertheless, a spy in Indian disguise was 
sent forth by night, but was instantly detected by Olotoraca. 
This man reported that there were 260 men in the garrison, 
and de Gourgues made preparations to attack on Tuesday 
morning. The Indians were placed in ambush on both sides 
of the fort, while the French men-at-arms advanced after 
daybreak along the river side, taking to cover when the 
Spanish culverins oiDened ujDon them. With singular want 
of prudence the Spaniards sent out a strong reconnoitring 
jjarty, which was cleverly entrapj^ed by the French and 
killed to a man. Conscience must have had something to 
do with the action of the rest of the garrison, for many of 
them had particijpated in the butchery of the Lutherans on 
this very spot three years before. At all events, they gave 
way to panic and fled to the woods on the side away from 
the French. Here they were instantly surrounded by whoop- 
ing savages, and the French coming upon them from the 
rear, their extermination was soon complete. Spanish au- 
thorities claim, however, that some few made good their es- 
cape. 

It will be remembered hgw Menendez was said to have 
hanged his prisoners, and placed over their bodies the inscrip- 



126 JACKSONVILLE. 

tion : "Not as to Frenchmen, but as to Lutherans. " It was 
the Frenchman's turn now. De Gourgues had with diffi- 
culty saved the lives of a number of his late antagonists. 
He caused them now to be brought before him. "Did you 
think," he said, according to his own account, " that so vile 
a treachery, so detestable a cruelty, against a king so i^otent 
and a nation so generous, would go unpunished ? I, one of 
tlie humblest of gentlemen among my king's subjects, have 
charged myself with avenging it. Even if the Most Chris- 
tian and Most Catholic ' Kings had been enemies at deadly 
war, such perfidy and extreme cruelty would have been un- 
pardonable. Now that they are friends and close allies, 
there is no name vile enough to brand your deeds, no pun- 
ishment sharp enough to requite them. But since you cannot 
suffer such punishment as you deserve, you shall receive all 
that an enemy can honorably inflict, to the end that others 
may learn to preserve the peace and alliance that you so 
treacherously and maliciously violated. Having said this," 
the narrator writes, "they were hanged on the same trees 
where they had hanged the Frenchmen," and above them 
was nailed this inscription, burned with a hot iron on a pine 
board : "I do this, not as to Spaniards, nor as to 'Marannes,' 
but as to traitors, robbers, and murderers." (Marannes was 
a semi-contemptuous term then applied to Spaniards.) Thus 
was the ill-fated Huguenot colony avenged. 

De Gourgues and his Indian allies destroyed the forts, re- 
turned in triumph to his ships and sailed for France, where 
he received a popular ovation, but, will it be believed, was 
coldly received by the King and Court, who were under the 
spell and terror of Spain. He was even obliged for a time 
to remain in concealment to escape Spanish vengeance, but 
finally his services were recognized as a defender of French 
honor ; he was restored to royal favor, and when he died was 
eulogized as one of the bravest soldiers of his time. 

1 For several centuries the Kings of France and Spain were known respec- 
tively by these titles. 



FERNANDINA. 127 

20. Fernandina. Nassau Co. (C. H.). 

Pop., 4,000.— Lat. 30° 40' N.— Long. 81° 26' W.— Mean rise and fall of tide, 6 
feet. See county map, page 66. 

The Egmont Hotel, $2 upward, special rates for permanent guests, open at 
all seasons. 

Railroads, Steamers, etc. — The Florida Central & Peninsula Railroad affords 
direct communication with Jacksonville, Tallahassee, Cedar Key, Orlando, Plant 
City, etc. (see p. 6T), and consult local time-tables. 

The steamers of the Mallory line make weekly trips to and from New York, 
leaving New York on Fridays. Time, 48 hours. Cabin passage, including 
room and table, $23. 

Coastwise steamers ply daily through Cumberland Sound to and from the 
Greorgia ports. 

Histoiry. 

The harbor of Fernandina, the finest on the coast south 
of Chesapeake Bay, was known to the early explorers^ 
and was probably used by them as a safe anchorage. De 
Gourgues made it his base of operations against the Span- 
iards in 1568, when it was the head-quarters of an Indian 
tribe able to muster some three thousand warriors. It was 
not until 1808 that a permanent settlement was established 
by the Spaniards. During the period of the embargo under 
Jefferson's administration it assumed considerable importance 
as a sea-port. In 1818, just after the second war with Eng- 
land, a movement known as the Patriot War was inaugurated, 
with the secret connivance of the United States Government, 
and its first act was the capture of Fernandina, the Spanish 
garrison offering no resistance worth mentioning. The 
leader of this movement was one McGregor, a Scotchman, 
who forthwith inaugurated a period of prosperity for Fer- 
nandina by making it a head-quarters for the freebooters who 
still infested the Spanish main, McGregor was before long 
forced to abdicate, and the collapse of the " Patriot army " 
soon followed. 

Fernandina grew slowly to be a place of some importance. 
The railroad was opened in 1861, and at the outbreak of the 
Civil War the inhabitants numbered about two thousand. 

Long before this the town was well fortified against an 
attack by sea. Fort Clinch, the most important of the defen- 
sive works, was completed prior to the Civil War, and, being 
without a garrison, was promptly seized by the Confederates 



12S ' FERNANDINA. 

iu 1861. It is a pentagonal structure of brick and concrete, 
with bastions and detached scarps, loopholed for musketry. 
The armament at that time included two large rifled guns, 
and twenty-seven 32-pounders. 

The j)ermanent works were flanked with water batteries, 
and strengthened with sand embankments under the super- 
vision of competent military engineers. A battery of four 
guns was erected on Cumberland Island. 

Approach by sea was impracticable in the face of these 
guns, and in view of the tortuous channel. The harbor, 
however, was important to both parties, as it afforded a 
haven for blockade-runners considerably nearer than any 
other to the neutral ports at Bermuda and on the Bahamas. 
The Confederate garrison was about two thousand strong, 
under command of General J. H. Trapier. 

On the morning of August 6, 1861, the inhabitants of the 
city were called to arms and to witness a race between the 
United States Shij) Vincennes and the Alvarado, a prize of 
the Confederate privateer Jeff Davis. The latter was making 
for the bar under all sail, but was forced ashore, abandoned 
by her crew, and afterward fired by boat crews from the 
Vincennes, it being obviously impossible to set her afloat 
again. In February, 1862, an expedition was organized at 
Port Eoyal by Commodore Dupont, U. S. N , and sailed on 
the last day of that month for the capture of Fernandina. 
The fleet consisted of nineteen vessels, mainly gunboats of 
light draught. 

On reaching the upper end of the sound Commodore Du- 
I)ont anchored to wait for the tide, and there learned from 
an escaped negro slave that the garrison at Fernandina was 
already abandoning the town and fortifications. The light- 
est and fleetest gunboats were immediately despatched down 
the Sound under Commander Percival Drayton to in*event 
destruction of property if possible, while the rest of the 
fleet took the outside passage. Cumberland Sound proved 
too shallow, however, and only the Ottawa could get through. 
Drayton went aboard of her and pushed on. As he passed 
Fort Clinch, a boat's crew was sent to hoist the American 
flag as a signal to the fleet. A white flag was displayed at 



FERNANDINA. 129 

Fernandina, but shots were fired at the Ottawa, and a rail- 
way train drawn by two engines was discovered just moving 
off. It was naturally supposed to contain troops, and an ex- 
citing chase ensued, as the track was for some four miles 
within range of the river. The Ottawa endeavored to dis- 
able the engines with her large rifled gun, but the train had 
the advantage of speed, and eventually left the gunboat be- 
hind, escaping across the bridge. A steamer, the Darling- 
ton, crowded with refugees, was less fortunate, being cajptured 
by the Ottawa's boats. 

It is significant of the then existing conditions of warfare 
that Commander Drayton was a native of South Carolina, 
while John Brock, captain of the captured steamboat, was a 
Vermonter. 

It subsequently appeared that the Confederate authorities 
had attempted to remove all the inhabitants under the mis- 
taken idea that they were in danger of brutal treatment 
from the captors. 

Of the United States forts seized by the Confederates, Fort 
Clinch was one of the first to be regained by Government 
forces. The occupation of Fernandina restored to Federal 
control the whole of the sea-coast of Georgia, and afforded a 
convenient base of operations against Jacksonville and St. 
Augustine.. 

After the capture of the Darlington, the Ottawa steamed 
up the St. Mary's River as far as King's Ferry, fifty-two 
miles, to reconnoitre, and while returning was fired upon by 
infantry, said to have been the Twenty-ninth Mississippi 
Regiment, in ambush on shore. The fire was instantly 
returned at short range with grape-shot, and with such 
deadly effect that no further opposition was experienced. 
Several men were wounded on board the Ottawa. 



130 FERNANDINA. 

21. Amelia Island, 

on which Fernandina stands, is thiiteen miles long, and from 
one to two and one-half miles wide. It is low and flat, or 
only gently undulating, with marshes along the inland shore, 
but heavily wooded to seaward. Outside of the woods is a 
belt of sand-hills and scrub, and beyond these a fine beach of 
hard white sand on which it is a luxury to walk, ride, or drive. 

A pleasant walk may be taken by following either the 
ocean beach or one of the roads leading north from the hotel. 
The village of Old Fernandhia, where the first settlement was 
made, is about a mile and a half from the present city. 

A mile farther is Amelia Island Lighthouse, with the 
keeper's dwelling pleasantly situated among trees on a 
bluff about fifty feet higher than the sea level. The 
light was originally established in 1836. The present tower 
was built in 1880. It is 58 feet high, and the lantern is 112 
feet above the sea level. It shows a white flash-light at in- 
tervals of 90 seconds, visible at sea 16^ nautical miles. 
From the lighthouse to the extreme northern point of the 
island is two miles, an easy and pleasant walk along the 
ocean beach, save at high tide, when the hard belt of beach 
i3 under water. (See maps, pp. 2i and 26.) 



22. Amelia River 

enters Cumberland Sound just inside the northern end of 
Amelia Island. It is an atm of the sea se^Darating the island 
from Tiger Island and the mainland of Florida. This por- 
tion of the strait is North Amelia River. It connects with 
South Amelia River through Kingsley's Creek, a narrow 
passage with only two feet of water at the *' divide" where 
the tides meet at the southern end of the creek. Shar- 
pies and small boats can pass at any time. Six feet draught 
can be taken through from sound to sound at high water. 
The South Amelia is narrow and crooked, bordered by ex- 
tensive marshes. It receives two navigable tributaries, 
Lanceford Creek and Bill's River, the latter running north- 
ward into the St. Mary's through Jolly River after a tortuous 
course of seven and one-half miles. (See maps, pp. 24 and 26.) 



FERNANDINA. 131 



23. Nassau Sound 

is formed by Amelia and Little Talbot Islands, the inlet 
between them being one mile and a half wide. The sound 
itself is three-quarters of a mile wide for about two miles, 
and then divides, forming South Amelia River on the north 
and Nassau River on the south. The entrance is obstructed 
by shifting sands, which make out to sea one mile and a 
quarter, and are marked by a can buoy in twenty-four feet of 
water. There is good anchorage under the south i^oint of 
Amelia Island. (See maps, pp. 24 and 26.) 



24. Cumberland Sound. 

The entrance to this sound is almost exactly a mile wide 
between Cumberland Island on the north and Amelia Island 
on the south. The sound itself, with an average width of 
about a mile, is nine miles long, and affords an inside pas- 
sage between the mainland of Georgia and Cumberland 
Island, to St. Andrew's Sound and the Cumberland River. 
Six feet draught can be earned through at low water, but 
the passage is variable, owing to shifting sand, and a pilot 
is necessary for all vessels of more than two feet draught. 

Viewed from the offing, Cumberland Island appears to be 
divided, but both parts are in reality joined by a stretch of 
low land, which becomes visible on nearer approach. 

Near the southern end of the island formerly stood Dun- 
geness House, the home of General Nathaniel Greene, of the 
Continental army. In recognition of his conspicuous services 
in the Revolutionary "War, the State of Georgia gave him 
this fine estate, which was for many years occupied by him 
and afterward by his heirs. During the Civil War both sides 
respected this historic mansion. When Fernandina was oc- 
cupied by United States Troops, a safeguard was placed on 
the property, and the following order posted at the entrance : 

This property, belonging originally to Grcneral Nathaniel Greene, a Eevolu- 
tionary hero and a native of Rhode Islands is now the property of his grandson 
Mr. Nightingale. It is hereby ordered and enjoined upon all who may visit this 



132 FERNANDA A. 

place to hold everything about the place sacred, and in no case disturb or taka 
away any article without a special order from Flag Officer Dupont or General 
Wright. 

Thus protected, the old mansion survived the dangers of 
the time, only to be accidentally burned some years after- 
ward. Subsequently the property was purchased by its pres- 
ent owner, who removed the ruin and erected a modern 
structure in its place. 

Cumberland Sound is almost wholly surrounded by marshes 
through which numerous tributaries find their way. The 
most important of these is St. Mary's Eiver, on which is the 
town of St. Mary's, Ga., about three and one-half miles 
from the mouth, A work of improvement by means of 
jetties was begun in 1881 by United States Army engineers, 
intended to establish a depth of twenty-one feet at mean low 
water. The jetties are only partially completed, and a large 
portion of them are still submerged. The outer ends are 
about three thousand feet apart, and the outer portions of 
the jetties are parallel. The St. Mary's Eiver has its source 
far back in the interior, and for a long distance it forms the 
boundary between Florida and Georgia. It is easily navi- 
gable for sea-going vessels for ninety-three miles, but high 
woods shut off the wind, so that it is difficult for sailing 
craft. Jolly Eiver is a navigable arm some six miles long, 
and nearly parallel to the lower reach of the St. Mary's. 
Eeed's Bluff is a conspicuous hill of white sand, seven miles 
above St. Mary's. Twenty-seven miles above St. Mary's is a 
cut-off, practicable for small boats at high water, which lessens 
the distance by several miles. There are no special points 
of interest on the river, but there are several lumber mills 
and logging stations, rarely visited by tourists. These, after 
leaving Eeed's Bluff, are Port Henry, Wild's Landing, Brick- 
yard, Germantown, Woodstock, King's Ferry, Orange Bluff, 
Camp Pinckney, Calico Hill, and Trader's Hill, which is at 
the head of navigation. Pleasant excursions up the river 
may be made in launches from Fernandina, and fairly good 
shooting may be had for water-fowl in the season. At 
King's Ferry are stores where ordinary supplies may be ob- 
tained. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 133 



30. Saint Augustine. St. Jolin's County. 

Population, 10,000.— Lat. 29° 53' 1" N.— Long. 81° IV W W.— Mean rise and 
fall of tide, 4 feet. 

Hotels.— (Rates are given by the day unless otherwise stated.) Alcazar, 
rooms $2 upward ; restaurant a la carte. — Carleton House, $3. — Cordova, $4 \x^- 
ward.— Florida House, $3.50 to %'k.— Hernandez, $2 to $3.— Magnolia, $3 to $4, — 
riaza Hotel, Rooms 50c. to $2.— Ponce de Leon, $5 upward.— -San Marco, $4. 
Special rates usually made for permanent guests, or by the week. There are 
many good boarding-houses, at $8 to $15 a week. 

Railways.— The lines to Jacksonville (p. 85), Palatka (p. 84), and Tocoi, 
all of the J., T. & K. W. system, and the North Beach Railway, converge at 
the Union Station, Malaga Street, The St. Augustine & South Beach Railway 
on Anastasia Island is reached by ferry from Central Wharf, near the Plaza. 
Carriage rate from stations to any part of city 25c. ; luggage, 25c. per piece. 

Livery may generally be best engaged through hotel clerk. Saddle-horses, $1 
an hour, $3 a day ; single teams, $1.50 an hour, $4 a day ; double teams with 
driver, $3 an hour, $5 upward a day. 

Boats with attendants, 25c. to $1 an hour, $2 to $5 a day ; to be found at Central 
Wharf, near Plaza. Special terms must be made for steam launches or for sail 
boats for long excursions. 

Guide and hunter, James Ponce, $3 to $5, according to services required, a 
day. 

ChurcJies.—BaTptmt, Sunday service, 10.30 a.m., 7.30 p.m., in Masonic Hall. — 
Episcopalian, Trinity Church, south side of Plaza, Sunday service, 10.30 a.m., 
7 P.M. — Methodist, Grace Church, Cordova and Carricre Streets, Sunday service, 
10.30 A.M., 7 P.M.— Presbyterian, St. George Street near Bridge, Sunday service, 
10.30 A.M., 7 P.M. — Roman Catholic, St. Joseph's Cathedral, north side of Plaza, 
Sunday service, 6, 3, and 10 a.m., 4 p.m. 

Young Men's Christian Association.— Rooms m Lyon Block, comer St. George 
and Alameda Streets. 

Points or Interest in St. Augustine. 

Fort Marion (p. 157). 

Museums (p. 166). 

St. Francis Barracks, etc. (p. 165). 

Hotel Ponce de Leon (p. 168). 

The Alcazar (p. 172). 

The Cordova (p. 172). 

Sea Wall, etc. (p. 156). 

The City Gates (p. 173). 

The Catholic Cathedral (p. 156). 

The Plaza (p. 155). 

Post Office, northern end of Plaza (for postage rates see p."^). 

Bxnks.—FiiBt National, north end of Plaza (hours 9.30 a.m. to 2 P.M.). —St. 
John's County Savings Bank, Hotel Cordova (hours 9 a.m. to 3 p.m.) 

Shops.— The best stores are in the Alcazar, on the Plaza or its immediate 
vicinity, or on St. George Street, all within 10 minutes of Plaza, 

Physicians may be called by telephone from all the hotels. 



134 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

History. 

As the earliest permanent settlement of Europeans "within 
the present territory of the United States, San Augustin, 
as the Spaniards wrote the name, will always be of excejD- 
I tional interest to Americans. In a degree it has claims also 
'upon Spaniards, upon the English, and upon the French, 
for all of them have, at one time or another, fought for it or 
against it. 

The early navigators were lured to Florida by stories of 
wealth and magic that met them before even they had sighted 
the shores of the continent. It is curious that the fabled 
" Fountain of Youth " should have crossed the ocean in ad- 
vance of the Spanish ships, and yet we have the testimony 
of Peter Martyr,»in an address to the Pope, to the effect that 
the existence of such a fountain was well attested and be- 
lieved by the explorers themselves. There was, indeed, a 
better foundation for this fable than for the tales of gold 
that always accompanied it. There are a score of springs in 
Florida, any one of which might easily imj^ress an ignorant 
or superstitious beholder with the idea of supernatural vir- 
tues. Probably native descriptions of those marvellous 
springs had much to do with Ponce de Leon's undoubted 
belief in the legend. He was growing old, and with the 
prospect of wealth and renewed youth before him, it was no 
wonder that he was eager to test the truth of every story 
that reached his ears. So it came to pass that he lauded, and 
claimed '* Pascua Florida" for his Most Catholic Majesty the 
King of Spain, a few miles north of St. Augustine. The exact 
locality can never be known, but it could not have been far 
from Seloy, a considerable Indian town on the site of the pres- 
ent city. Hardly had the Spaniards made a landing, when 
they were set upon by such a formidable band of Indians that 
they were glad to escape to their boats, carrying with them, 
fatally wounded, their gallant old commander. This was on 
April 3, 1512, and, as it is not likely that so large a war party 
of Indians could have been hastily rallied at a distance from 
some large town, we may safely assume that Ponce de Leon 
made his great discovery and received his death-wound al- 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 135 

most within sight of the spot where the French Huguenot, 
Een6 de Laudonni^re, landed fifty-two years afterward (June 
22, 1564). Laudonni^re translated the native name Seloy 
into French, inadvertently, perhaps, and named the estuary 
La Riviere des Dauphines, because of the numerous por- 
poises or " dolphins " that then, as now, made it their feed- 
ing-ground. The French, however, sailed away in search of 
a more promising location, and eventually built Fort Caro- 
line on the St. John's Eiver (see p. 118). 

This French expedition was the immediate cause of the 
Spanish settlement at St. Augustine. It was essentially a 
Protestant colony, sent out under the patronage of Admiral 
Coligny, and with the assent of Charles IX., then king of 
France. When news of the building of Fort Caroline 
reached Madrid, great was the wrath of the Spanish king 
and his courtiers. It was bad enough that the Spanish 
rights of discovery should be invaded, but that the invaders 
should be heretics was more than Catholic human nature 
could endure. Pedro Menendez de Aviles, a devout and 
bigoted religionist, a brave, cruel, and uncompromising 
soldier, was commissioned to exterminate the French Colony. 
His compact with the king bound him to transport to Flori- 
da 12 priests, 4 Jesuit fathers, 100 horses, 200 horned cattle, 
400 sheep and goats, 400 swine, and 500 slaves. He agreed to 
establish two or three towns, each of 100 families, and was 
to have the title of Adelentado, or governor, and Marquis, 
with various other privileges and emoluments. 

With 2,600 men in 11 vessels he sailed, and on September 
7, 1565, anchored in the Eiver of Dolphins with about half 
his fleet. 

" On Saturday, the eighth day of September," writes Fray 
Francisco Lopez de Mendoza, Chaplain of the fleet, " the day 
of the Nativity of Our Lady, the General disembarked with 
numerous banners displayed, trumpets and other martial 
music resounding, and amid salvos of artillery. Carrying a 
cross, I proceeded at the head, chanting the hymn Te JDeum 
Laudamus. The General marched straight up to the cross, to- 
gether with all those who accompanied him, and, kneeling, 
they all kissed the cross. After this, possession was formally 



136 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

taken in tlie name of his Majesty, and the officers all took an 
oath of allegiance." 

To the many Indians who watched these ceremonies all 
this must have been a wonderful sight. The chaplain says 
that they imitated whatever they saw done, kneeling, cross- 
ing themselves and bowing as they saw the Europeans do. 

The Indian village of Seloy, or Selooe, stood where the 
city now is, and it must have been a place of considerable 
importance. The chief was friendly, and assigned quarters 
to the soldiers in a large building situated near the shore. 
Fatigue parties were instantly set to work, and, almost be- 
fore the kindly chief knew what was doing, a little Spanish 
fort stood in the midst of his village, with guns in position, 
and sentries walking their beats in regular European style. 
From that day to this St. Augustine has been the abode of 
Europeans. After the devout custom of the Spanish ex- 
plorers, the place was at once named in honor of the Saint 
of that day, who j)rovidentially was a very distinguished 
Saint, namely, Aurelius Augustinus, easily the greatest of 
the four fathers of the Christian Church (a. d. 354: to a. d. 430). 
He was Bishop of Hip^DO Eegius, the ancient seat of the 
Numidian kings, and his memory and teachings are still 
cherished alike by Catholics and Protestants. 

Eighty cannon were forthwith landed, and the j)ost Avas 
speedily x>ut in a state for defence. 

On September 10th the French ships came down from the 
St. John's in the night, and, according to the good chaplain 
before quoted, were only prevented from capturing the ves- 
sels and all who were left on board, by the special interj)o- 
sition of Our Lady of Bon Secours d' Utrera, who, in answer 
to the prayers of the frightened mariners, descended in per- 
son upon one of the vessels, bringing a breeze that enabled 
all to escape. Further than this, the good lady, or some 
other power, caused a terrific gale to arise, which wrecked the 
French fleet before it could regain the St. John's. 

Now was Menendez's opportunity. He promptly despatched 
five hundred men, knowing that the garrison at Fort Caro- 
line must be greatly weakened, surprised and captured the 
fort, and put to the sword those of the garrison whom he 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 137 

did not hang (see p. 123). This success was followed by the 
surrender and execution of most of the shipwrecked French- 
men at Matanzas Inlet (see p. 178). 

On September 28, 1565, St. Augustine set the example 
that has since been followed by nearly every town in the 
State — it had a great fire. The quarters occujDied by the 
garrison were consumed, with large quantities of stores and 
j)rovisions. Incendiarism was suspected, but never proved. 
Work was begun immediately on a regular fortification, the 
Spaniards having before them a wholesome fear of French 
vengeance for the recently perpetrated massacres. More- 
over, it was learned presently that about two hundred French- 
men still survived, and had fortified themselves at Canaveral 
— probably north of the present Cape of that name. Against 
this fort Menendez presently moved, and one hundred and 
fifty of the garrison surrendered, and for some inexplicable 
reason were courteously treated as prisoners of war. 

The winter that followed was a most trying one to the 
garrison, increased as it was by the accession of the French 
l^risouers. The Indians, friendly at first, had been estranged, 
as usual, by cruel treatment from the Spaniards. No one 
could go outside the fort to hunt or fish without danger from 
an ever- vigilant and preternaturally crafty foe. It is credibly 
stated that more than one hundred and twenty of the gar- 
rison were thus killed, including several officers. 

At this crisis, while provisions were growing scarce, 
Menendez went to Cuba for relief. During his absence tho 
garrison mutinied, and not even his return sufficed wholly to 
restore discix^line. Altogether some five hundred men re- 
turned to Cuba, Mexico, and Spain, and for the first time 
in history Florida was denounced to intending settlers as 
barren, swampy, and unproductive. 

The fort was completed before spring, but by June pro- 
visions again ran short, and but for the timely arrival from 
Spain of a fleet of seventeen vessels with 1,500 men and ample 
supplies the attempt to colonize Florida must have been 
abandoned. Juan de Avila was admiral of this fleet, and 
with him he brought to Menendez a welcome letter from 
his royal master, Philij) II., wherein the " retribution you 



138 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

have visited upon the Lutheran j)irates " was warmly com- 
mended. In the meantime, operating from St. Augustine, 
as head-quarters, several colonies were planted, and, leaving 
affairs in a seemingly prosperous condition, Menendez caused 
to be built a 20-ton '-frigate," of very light construction, 
in which he sailed for Spain, making the run to the Azores, 
more than three thousand miles, in the remarkably short 
time of seventeen days. He was received with high honors 
by Philip II., but in the meantime vengeance was brewing 
in France, and before Menendez could return to St. Augus- 
tine, the soldier of fortune, Domenique de Gourgues, had 
captured the Spanish forts on the St. John's, and avenged 
the massacre of the Huguenot colony (see p. 120). 

Shortly after this Menendez returned from Spain to find 
the garrison at St. Augustine again on the point of starva- 
tion and mutiny. It seems incredible that, in such a pro- 
lific land as Florida has since proved to be, no serious efforts 
were made to cultivate the soil, but it is certain that starva- 
tion more than once threatened the garrison at St. Augustine 
during the nine years that intervened before Menendez's 
death. 

In the Church of San Nicolas, at Aviles, is a handsome 
monument bearing the following inscription, which is here 
translated to show the distinguished titles and honors held 
by the founder of " San Augustin : " 

" Here lies buried the illustrious Cavalier Pedro Menen- 
dez de Aviles, a native of this city, Adelantado of the Prov- 
inces of Florida, Knight Commander of Santa Cruz of the 
order of Santiago, and Captain General of the Oceanic Seas, 
and of the Armada wliich his Eoyal Highness collected at 
Santander in the year 1574, where he died in the 55th year 
of his age." 

After its founder's death the colony at St. Augustine was 
left mainly to its own resources, and soon began to learn 
how to take care of itself. It passed through the usual 
trials of a frontier town during the twelve years that fol- 
lowed, slowly growing, however, in strength and resources. 
On May 28 (O. S.), 1586, the English freebooter. Sir Francis 
Drake, was sailing up the coast and discovered a lookout on 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 139 

Anastasia Island. "None amongst us had any knowledge 
of it at all," says Drake in his narrative. So an armed party 
was sent ashore, who discovered the fort and town, and re- 
ported accordingly. Upon this Drake landed a cannon near 
the head of the island and opened fire just as night fell. 
The first shot *' strake through the Ensigne," and the second 
struck the wall of the fort. Darkness prevented further op- 
erations, but during the night Christopher Carleil, the lieu- 
tenant-general, made a reconnoissance in " a little rowing 
Skiffe," and was fired at from the fort. 

Morning dawned, and, continues Drake in his narrative, 
" forthwith came a Frenchman, being a Phipher, in a little 
boat, playing on his Phiph the tune of the Prince of Orange 
his Song." The deserter proved to be one Nicolas de Bur- 
goyne, who had been sjoared by Menendez at the time of the 
Huguenot massacre. He reported the evacuation of the 
fort. The English immediately manned their boats without 
waiting for full daylight, and found the French fif er's report 
true, the garrison of 150 men having fled in such haste that 
the treasure-chest, containing £2,000, fell into Drake's hands. 

An advance was then made upon the town, which lay some 
three-quarters of a mile to the southward, but, after a feeble 
show of resistance, both soldiers and inhabitants fled, and 
Drake pillaged and burned the place, which had by this 
time attained quite a respectable size, with a "Hall of 
Justice," a parish church, a monastery, and twelve squares 
of dwellings and other buildings, each with its garden on 
the west side. 

The fort (St. John of the Pines) was a rude octagonal af- 
fair of pine logs, set palisadewise, was without ditches, and 
is described as quite incapable of resisting such an attack as 
Drake could have delivered. The narrative says, in fact, 
" So as to say the truth they had no reason to keepe it, being 
subject both to fire, and easie of assault." 

The English soon departed, and the Spanish governor, a 
nephew and namesake of the original founder, led back his 
colony and began the work of reconstruction. 

In 1592 twelve Franciscan missionaries arrived and began 
systematically to work for the conversion of the Indians. 



140 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

The governor had encouraged Indian settlements, and two 
villages had been established, known as Talomato and 
Tapoqui, the first being in or near the northwest part of the 
town, and the second a little to the northward of the fort, 
where was an Indian church consecrated to " Our Lady of 
the Milk." In 1598 the native converts began to tire of ec- 
clesiastical restraint, and under the leadership of a young 
chief broke into the chapel at Talomato, which stood near the 
present Boman Catholic Cemetery, and killed Father Corpa 
while at his evening devotion. Thence they went to Tapoqui 
and served Father Roderiguez in like manner, permitting 
him, however, at his own request, to put on his vestments 
and say mass. He was killed before the altar, which it is 
said was spattered with his blood. The fierce young chief 
then led his band against the several other missions that 
had been established up and down the coast and in the in- 
terior and very nearly exterminated the Franciscan brother- 
hood in Florida. Of course, summary vengeance was taken 
by the Spaniards, who burned villages and granaries, when 
they could not catch the marauders themselves. The fate of 
tlie martyred priests served only to stimulate the missionary 
spirit among the Franciscans, and in a few years there were 
twenty prosperous missions in as many of the principal 
Indian towns with their headquarters at St. Augustine. 

In 1638 the AjDalachian Indians rose against the Spaniards, 
and many prisoners were brought to St. Augustine and set to 
work on the fortifications. By 1647 there were 300 house- 
holders, resident in the city, and 50 Franciscans occupied 
the monastery. There was a parish church with a full staff 
of ecclesiastics, and the fort was rebuilt on a more secure 
plan. Menendez the Second had been killed by Indians, and 
his son-in-law, Hernando de Alas, succeeded him — the last 
of the Menendez line. 

Diego de Bebellado was Captain-General from 1655 till 
1675 and during his term of office (1665) Captain John Davis, 
an English freebooter like his predecessor Drake, came up 
from Jamaica with a fleet of seven small vessels, landed 
somewhere south of the town and marched directly upon it 
with a force probably greatly superior to that of the garrison. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 141 

At all events, the town was sacked, the garrison, two hundred 
in number, apparently remaining in the fort, not being strong 
enough to make resistance or afford j)rotection. At this time 
the fort was square, with bastions, and capable of a good de- 
fence. The English, at any rate, seem to have deemed it pru- 
dent to take themselves off with their plunder without at- 
tacking the fort. 

Don Juan Marquez de Cabrera was appointed Governor in 
1681, and took in hand energetically the work of completing 
the castle (see p. 158). At this time incipient hostilities 
began between the Spaniards in Florida and the English and 
Scotch in Georgia and the Carolinas, each side finding just 
cause for complaint in the encroachments of the other. In 
1675, and again in 1685, the Governor of St. Augustine sent 
armed expeditions against Port Eoyal. The second one was 
successful, the Spaniards breaking up Lord Cardross' colony 
and plundering plantations along the Edisto Eiver. 

In 1687 Captain Juan de Aila brought from Spain the 
first negro slave imported to the colony, an event that was 
hailed with joy by the inhabitants. Menendez, it will be re- 
membered was authorized to import five hundred slaves, but 
he never did it, and though the Spaniards did not hesitate to 
enslave Indians whenever convenient, they did not prove so 
tractable as negroes. 

Under Don Diego de Quiroga y Losada, in 1690, the con- 
struction of a sea-wall was undertaken as a public work, and 
in the following year substantial aid was received from the 
home government. This old wall apparently extended from 
the castle to the present Plaza. Portions of it were visible 
along the middle of Bay Street until about 1860, and exca- 
vation, were it desirable, would no doubt reveal a consider- 
able portion of the old structure, which the progress of mod- 
ern improvement has covered up (see p. 156). 

The year 1702 saw war formally declared between Great 
Britain and Spain, and James Moore, then Governor of South 
Carolina, a man of energetic and warlike instincts, organized 
an expedition against St. Augustine. The castle was now in 
shape to stand a siege, and preparations were made accord- 
ingly. The inhabitants removed their valuables within the 



142 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

walls. Moore's attack was planned by land and sea, but the 
land forces under Colonel Daniel arrived first, and occupied 
the town without opposition. Shortly afterward the fleet of 
transports appeared in the offing and the castle was com- 
pletely invested. 

The walls were found to be too strong for the light ord- 
nance brought by Governor Moore and two different mes- 
sengers were sent to Jamaica for heavier guns. The first 
messenger proved inefficient, but the second, Colonel Daniel, 
procured the guns and returned with great expedition. In 
the meantime, however, two Spanish frigates appeared in the 
offing and Moore, thinking that Colonel Daniel could not 
now accomplish his mission, raised the siege and marched 
home, abandoning or burning his ships and firing the town 
as he departed. When Colonel Daniel returned with his ord- 
nance and stores he narrowly escaped capture, not know- 
ing that his colleagues had withdrawn. The Carolinians 
carried home a considerable quantity of rich booty, includ- 
ing vestments and plate from the churches, and thus was St. 
Augustine again forced to begin her career over again. There 
is but small doubt that had Moore awaited Daniel's return, 
the castle would have fallen, for the Spanish frigates had 
but two hundred men, who could not have afforded substan- 
tial aid. The siege had lasted nearly three months, and the 
beleaguered garrison was glad to have it end at any cost. 

This narrow escape had the effect of inducing a more lib- 
eral policy on the part of the home government. Money and 
men were sent to complete and strengthen the fortifications, 
but in 1712 there was nearly a famine, for the provision 
ships failed to arrive and the Spanish colonists for some 
reason had not learned to make a living by peaceful means. 

The year 1725 found the city with an enemy again at her 
gates, this time Colonel Palmer, of South Carolina. He was 
merely on a raid, however, and as the city was walled by this 
time, he could only destroy everything outside the gates. 

Seven years passed. Another martial governor had ap- 
peared in the north, to wit, James Edward Oglethorpe, of 
Georgia. War still existed between Great Britain and Spain, 
and Oglethorpe, under instructions from the English Crown, 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 143 

made a descent upon St. Augustine. The expedition was 
organized with a view to ending the partisan warfare that 
had so long subsisted between English and Spanish colo- 
nists. Oglethorpe held the king's commission as a general 
officer; a regiment of the line was sent from England to 
join the expedition, and several hundred volunteers were en- 
rolled among the colonists. Four 20-gun ships and two 
sloops formed the naval force. 

The Governor of Florida at this time was Don Manuel de 
Monteano, an energetic and able commander, who made 
every effort to strengthen his position. The population of 
St. Augustine was about two thousand. The garrison num- 
bered about seven hundred and forty men, horse, foot, and 
artillery. There were fifty pieces of cannon in the castle — 
12- to 48-pounders. Don Antonio de Arredondo, an able of- 
ficer of engineers, strengthened the works, and threw up in- 
trenchments around the town, the remains of some of which 
are still visible. 

Oglethorpe's forces rendezvoused at the mouth of the St. 
John's, May 24, 1739. Two Spanish forts on the river, at 
Picolata, had already been captured. 

About two miles north of the Castle of St. Marks was an 
outwork called *' Negro Fort," or "Fort Moosa," having at 
that time water communication with the castle through a 
tidal creek. It was originally intended as a shelter for plan- 
tation hands against the Indians, whence its name, but was 
subsequently garrisoned by the Spaniards. The English 
found it deserted, and decided to destroy it. Probably this 
was the result of some misunderstanding, for hardly was the 
work begun, when it was countermanded, and Colonel Palmer 
was sent with 133 men to hold the position. 

On June 6th, Colonel Vanderdusen arrived with the North 
Carolina Kegiment, having marched down the beach from 
the St. John's, but it was not until June 20th that the fleet 
took position and St. Augustine was fairly invested. On 
Anastasia Island, directly opposite the castle was a battery 
of four 18-pounders, and one 9-pounder. Two more 18- 
pounders were mounted on higher land. On San Matteo, or 
North River Point were seven more pieces, and, according 



144: SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

to Spanish accounts, there were thirty-four mortars in posi- 
tion. The remains of the principal battery on Anastasia 
Island can still be traced. 

The town was at once rendered untenable by the English 
guns, and the inhabitants sought shelter in the fort. On 
the night of June 25th a sortie in force was made from the 
castle, and the insufficient garrison at Fort Moosa was over- 
powered after a sharp fight. Colonel Palmer, the nominal 
commandant, had from the first protested against being left 
with so few men in an exposed position out of reach of suc- 
cor, and, moreover, Captain Mcintosh, commanding a High- 
lander detachment that formed part of the garrison, was dis- 
posed to be insubordinate — facts which, taken in connection 
with the partial destruction of the fort, sufficiently account 
for its capture. Nevertheless, a stubborn resistance was 
made, and two assaults were repulsed. A third was more 
successful, and the Spaniards gained the interior of the work, 
where their superior numbers soon compelled submission. 
A few of the garrison cut their way out and escaped to the 
English lines, but Colonel Palmer was killed, fighting to 
the last. Captain Mcintosh, with about twenty of his men, 
was captured and taken to Sj)ain. 

After this hostilities consisted mainly of an artillery duel 
between the castle and the batteries, resulting in small 
damage to either side. The walls of the old fort still bear 
marks of shot and shell, but the range was too great for 
the ordnance of that period ; the missiles merely imbedded 
themselves harmlessly in the coquina ramparts. 

Oglethorpe, indeed, counted upon starvation to compel sur- 
render, and his hopes might probably have been realized, 
but for the unaccountable omission to guard Mosquito and 
Matanzas Inlets, thus leaving the authorities at Havana free 
to send supplies in response to Monteano's appeals for aid. 
There is some doubt as to whether the siege was raised be- 
fore or after the wants of the garrison were relieved. Be 
that as it may, Oglethorpe and his officers believed that sup- 
plies had been received, and were satisfied early in July that 
it was useless to protract the siege with the means at hand. 
On the 10th of that month, therefore, the little army crossed 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 14:5 

the river, and paraded — drums beating and colors flying — 
within sight of the castle, in the vain hope that the Span- 
iards would come out and fight in the open. Monteano very 
properly and prudently declined this challenge, and so, after 
a month of siege, "Xa siempre jiel Ciudad de San Augustin'^ 
was once more left to her balmy sea-breezes, with the flag 
of Spain floating above her ramparts. 

Great credit is due to the courage, fortitude, and ready re- 
source displayed by Governor Monteano during this siege. 

Early in the spring of 1742 St. Augustine was the centre of 
vigorous preparations for a retaliatory expedition. A fleet 
of thirty vessels gathered in the harbor and outside the bar, 
and, about July 1st, sailed with Monteano in command to 
carry the war into Oglethorpe's own territory. Barring some 
temporary successes the expedition was a failure. 

In March, 1743, Oglethorpe was again before the city 
gates, and so swiftly did he come that his Indian scouts 
overtook and slew a number of Spanish soldiers (forty ac- 
cording to Oglethorpe's report) under the very walls of the 
castle. 

Oglethorpe was merely engaged in a foray, however, and 
after seeking in vain to induce the garrison to come out and 
fight, he returned as quickly as he came. 

Don Alonzo Fernandez de Herrara was appointed Gover- 
nor in 1755. Under his administration the castle was com- 
pleted as it now stands, all save the water battery, which is of 
modern construction. 

After a tacit suspension of hostilities a treaty was ratified 
whereby Florida passed into the hands of Great Britain, and 
in 1763 the Cross of St. George at last took the place of the 
Spanish lion on the flagstaff of the castle. 

With English rule came an abrupt change of policy. The 
population of the city had, until now been semi-militavy, 
largely under pay from the crown, and coiTespondingly idle 
and worthless. Nothing whatever had been done to dis- 
cover or develop the resources of the country. No sooner, 
however, had the English taken possession than they began 
to encourage immigration by publishing accounts of the soil 
and climate which were quite as trustworthy as some of 



146 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

more recent date and finer typography. Stork's map of the 
city (1752) is very minute, showing every lot and alleyway in 
detail. Under the English flag the Castle of St. Mark be- 
came St. John's Fort. 

To the Spanish residents the change of flags was unendur- 
able, and nearly all of them emigrated at short notice, not- 
withstanding civil and religious liberty was guaranteed by 
the terms of the treaty. Such was their malicious temper 
that the commandant of the post, Major Ogilvie, had much 
ado to keep them from destroying their houses. Even the 
outgoing Governor uprooted and destroyed the fine garden 
of the official residence. 

During the night of January 2, 1766, the mercury fell to 
20^ and, for the first time on record, lime, citron, and ba- 
nana trees were killed in St. Augustine. 

In the manuscript of John Gerard Williams de Brahm, in 
the collection of Harvard University, it appears that the 
number of inhabitants of St. Augustine and vicinity was 288 
householders (144 of them married), and upward of 900 ne- 
groes. The coquina lighthouse, constructed by the Span- 
iards on Anastasia Island, was surmounted in 1769 by a 
wooden superstructure, sixty feet high, from which a system 
of signals was displayed for the benefit of mariners. 

The first English Governor was Lieutenant-Colonel James 
Grant, of the Fortieth foot. He was appointed in 1760, and in- 
augurated many wise measures for the improvement of the 
town and colony. One of his most noteworthy undertakings 
was the construction of public highways leading north and 
south from St. Augustine. In spite of the neglect of suc- 
ceeding generations these roads are still among the best in 
the country. During his governorship he led two consider- 
able expeditions, the first against rebellious North Carolin- 
ians, and the second against the Cherokee Indians. Subse- 
quently he was promoted general for services in the Royal 
Army during the war for American Independence. 

Governor Grant retired in 1771 and was succeeded by 
Governor Moultrie, a brother of him who w^as afterward a 
leader in the Revolutionary War, His administration of 
affairs was somewhat stormy, and in 1774 he was succeeded 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 147 

by Governor Tonyn, who came out from England for the pur- 
pose. In the meantime the northern colonies had revolted, 
.and one of the first acts of the new Governor was to issue 
a proclamation inviting the loyalists of Georgia and the 
Carolinas to Florida, assuring them protection and immunity 
from rebel raids. As a result the population of St. Augus- 
tine and vicinity was largely increased. 

The sentiment of the town was intensely loyalist, and when 
news of the Declaration of Independence was received, 
Adams and Hancock were burned in eflSgy in the Plaza where 
the monument now stands. 

In August, 1775, there were several British cruisers at 
anchor inside the bar and a considerable garrison in the fort, 
for St. Augustine was a convenient station for military and 
naval operations. A powder-laden vessel from London, 
named the Betsy, lay off the bar waiting a favorable tide to 
run in. She was discovered by an enterprising American 
privateer from Carolina and captured under the very eyes of 
fleet and garrison. To one who knows this coast such an oc- 
currence is easily explained. An easterly wind in connection 
with a heavy swell on the bar or a flood tide would render a 
rescue out of the question, by anything save a fleet of steam 
launches — perhaps not even by them. The impotent wrath 
of the local royalists may be imagined. 

In 1778, the British garrison being small, much anxiety 
was caused in the royalist city by the organization of an 
American expedition for its capture. The plan was aban- 
doned for some reason, and St. Augustine saw nothing of 
the *' rebels.'* A successful British expedition against Sa- 
vannah, Ga., was organized under General Prevost at St. 
Augustine in 1778, making the town gay for a time with 
scarlet uniforms on shore and a fleet of transports in the 
harbor. 

After the capture of Charleston, S. C, by the British in 
1780, sixty-one prominent citizens of the place were seized 
for their rebellious sentiments and brought to St. Augustine 
as prisoners of war and hostages. 

The nominally full list as published in Fairbanks' " History " 
is as follows, and is reproduced here as of interest from the 



148 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 



many prominent family names that it contains. The number 
it will be be noticed falls four short of the alleged total : 



John J. Budd. 
Edward Blake. 
Joseph Bee. 
Richard Beresford. 
John Berwick. 
D. Bordeaux. 
Robert Cochrane. 
Benjamin Cudworth. 
H. V. Crouch. 
I. S. Cripps. 
Edward Darrell. 
Daniel Dessaussure. 
John Edwards. 
George Flagg. 
Thomas Ferguson. 
General A. C. Gadsden. 
"William Hazel Gibbs. 
Thomas Grinball. 
William Hall. 
George A. Hall. 
Isaac Holmes. 
Thomas Heyward, jr. 
Richard Hutson. 
Colonel Isaacs. 
Noble Wimberly Jones. 
William Johnstone. 
William Lee. 
Richard Lushington. 

Morton 



William Logan. 
Rev. John Lewis. 
William Massey. 
Alexander Moultrie. 
Arthur Middleton. 
Edward McCready. 
John Mouatt. 
Edward North. 
John Neufville. 
Joseph Parker. 
Christopher Peters. 
Benjamin Postell. 
Samuel Prioleau. 
John Earnest Poyas. 
General Rutherford. 
Edward Rutledge. 
Hugh Rutledge. 
John Sansom. 
Thomas Savage. 
Josiah Smith. 
Thomas Singleton. 
James Hampden Thompson. 
John Todd. 
Peter Timothy. 
Anthony Toomer. 
Edward Weyman. 
James Wakefield. 
Benjamin Waller. 
Wilkinson. 



The Governor, Patrick Tonyn, as shown by an oflScial 
letter to Lord St. Germain, sought " to have them treated 
with great contempt, and to have any friendly intercourse 
with them is considered as a mark of disrespect to his 
Majesty and displeasing to me." Nevertheless, these pesti- 
lent rebels appear to have made friends, and increased the 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 149 

number of the disaffected even in St. Augustine itself. 
They -were in custody for nearly a year, and were then sent to 
Philadelphia to be exchanged. 

About this time, 1780, the policy of evacuating East Flor- 
ida altogether began to be agitated, and an order to this ef- 
fect was actually issued by Sir Guy Carleton, but subse- 
quently revoked. The province had, in fact, grown wonder- 
fully under British rule. The exports of East Florida (that 
i^, of St. Augustine) amounted in 1768 to £14,078, in 1778 
to £48,236. In 1781, owing largely to the Revolutionary War, 
they fell to £30,715. St. Augustine had been a considerable 
port of entry for coastwise and foreign traffic, and every- 
thing pointed to a prosperous future, when, after the Inde- 
pendence of the United States was recognized, the British 
Government, on September 3, 1783, re-ceded Florida to 
Spain, with the very unsatisfactory stipulation that the 
English inhabitants might have eighteen months of grace 
wherein to sell out their property, or move their effects. Al- 
most to a man the English settlers decided to emigrate, but 
they did so under great hardship and loss, having been in- 
duced to settle in Florida by liberal grants of land. 

During the British occupation St. Augustine became the 
centre of a rather select society. Among the residents, of- 
ficial and otherwise, were Sir Charles Burdett, Chief Justice 
Drayton, the Rev. John Forbes, General James Grant, 
Lieutenant-Governor Moultrie, William Stark, the historian, 
the Rev. N. Frazer, Dr. Andrew TurnbuU, Bernard Romans, 
Esq., civil engineer, James Moultrie, Esq., and William 
Bartram, Esq., the Quaker naturalist and author. Bar- 
racks capable of containing five regiments were erected 
south of the present town, and the old city within its gray 
coquina walls must have been a very pleasant place of resi- 
dence. 

The wonderful productiveness of " Florida sand " had 
been promj^tly discovered by English gardeners, and to this 
day evidences of their thrift and energy are apj^arent, not 
only in the city itself but wherever the land was exception- 
ally good within a reasonable distance from the coast. 

In June, 1784, the new Spanish governor, Zespedez by 



150 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

name, took possession, and again after twenty years' absence 
the banner of Spain floated over the castle walls. This 
transfer inaugurated what was perhaps the most idyllic pe- 
riod of the city's history. The world went on fighting as 
usual, but St. Augustine had ceased to be a bone of content 
tion. The young republic to the northward was some- 
what aggressive, it is true, but the new order of things 
did not for a generation intimately aiSect the old city. 
Under the wise and temperate government of Don Enrique 
White a somewhat unique Spanish community apj)ears 
to have developed. Music, dancing, civil and ecclesiastical 
feasts, and all the light amusements dear to the Latin heart, 
were celebrated during the genial winter months and the 
city was a veritable bower of tropical vegetation, with narrow, 
paved streets lined with cool gray coquina-walled houses. 
Within the gates no hoof of horse ever sounded. Those who 
could afford to ride rode in palanquins. 

In 1792 the city suffered an irreparable loss in the burn- 
ing of the British barracks — five large brick buildings that 
stood to the southward of the town. 

In a most entertaining volume, entitled *' A Voyage to the 
Spanish Main" (London, 1819), "An English Gentleman,'* 
whose name has never come to light, gives a charming pic- 
ture of the city and its manners and customs at the time of 
his visit (1817), albeit that was almost the beginning of the 
end. 

The second war between the United States and Great 
Britain (1812-1814) indicated unmistakably the manifest 
destiny of Florida. The young republic had acquired by 
purchase from France all the surrounding territory. An 
American, or " patriot " party was growing in strength, even 
under Spanish rule, and marauders, too often aided and 
abetted by United States officials, rendered life and pro^jerty 
insecure. 

Negotiations followed between the governments at Wash- 
ington and Madrid, and as the result of a treaty ratified in 
February, 1821, the Spanish flag was lowered on July 10th 
of that year and the stars and stripes rose in its place. 
European residents in St. Augustine had already spread 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 151 

tlie fame of her climate, and no sooner was the State fairly in 
the Union than invalids began to flock thither during the 
"winter months. 

The facilities for travel were, however, so inferior in those 
days that, until the establishment of coastwise steamboat 
routes, about 1827, no one foresaw the coming importance 
of the modern winter resort. For fifteen years St. Augus- 
tine enjoyed peace and prosperity, but in 1835 the Seminole 
War broke out, and she was again an important centre of mil- 
itary preparations. Daring this period great prosperity 
prevailed, stimulated, of course, by the fictitious values in- 
duced by Government contracts. War parties of Indians 
prowled under the very walls, and many massacres occurred 
ill the vicinity. 

In February, 1835, the mercury fell to 7° F., a point that 
has never been touched since. Even the wild orange-trees 
were killed to the ground. 

Hostilities continued, with more or less danger to the in- 
habitants of the city, until 1812, when the Indians were finally 
subjugated in this vicinity or driven far to the southwai'd 
among the everglades. From this time may be dated St. 
Augustine's prosperity as a resort for invalids and tourists, 
a prosperity that was not seriously interrupted until the 
winter of 1860, when the indications of coming civil war be- 
tween the States became so marked that Northern invalids 
dared not risk their usual flight to the South. 

Secession found Fort Marion in charge of Ordnance Ser- 
geant Douglas, U. S. A., and, like many another of his fel- 
lows about this time, he was confronted on Januaiy 7, 1861, 
by a company of volunteers under orders from the Gov- 
ernor of the State, demanding a surrender of his chai-ge. 
He had no choice but to comply, although he required a re- 
ceipt for all jjroperty from the Governor's aide. By this 
prompt action, prior by three days, indeed, to the passage of 
the Ordnance of Secession, the State, and subsequently the 
Confederacy, secured 6 field batteries of four guns each, 20 
sea-coast and garrison cannon, 31 foreign guns of various 
calibres, and a quantity of small arms and ammunition. 
The United States ensign was pulled down, not without 



152 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

some unspoken misgivings on the part of the more thought- 
ful spectators, and for more than a year the " stars and 
bars " floated at the flagstaff. 

On March 11, 1862, the United States gunboat Huron, 
Commander C. P. R. Rogers, appeared in the offing, crossed 
the bar with some difficulty, and approached the city under 
a flag of truce, as had been directed by Commodore Dupont. 
A white flag was soon hoisted on Fort Marion. Upon this 
Commander Rogers went ashore with an unarmed crew and 
was received by the Mayor and City Council, who informed 
him that the small Confederate garrison of two companies 
had evacuated the fort during the night. The guns of the 
fort were not spiked, and on recommendation of Commander 
Rogers the Mayor had the national ensign hoisted on the 
fort. The whole affair was conducted with courtesy on 
both sides, and an adequate garrison of United States troops 
was soon landed to take permanent possession. About one 
thousand five hundred of the inhabitants remained in the 
city, some five hundred having fled when it became evident 
that no defence would be made. On the evening before the 
arrival of the gunboats a number of women cut down the 
flagstaff in front of the United States barracks, in order to 
delay the hoisting of the national colors. This appears to 
have been the only overt act of hostility that was j)ermitted 
by the cooler headed of the inhabitants, who well knew the 
futility of resistance under the circumstances. 

Shortly after the Federal garrison had taken possession, a 
detail of the Tenth Connecticut Regiment was attacked by 
a squadron of Confederate cavalry, while acting as guards 
for a party of wood-cutters. The attacking party made a 
dash for the teams of the wood-cutters, but were driven off 
after a sharp skirmish. Three of the Connecticut men were 
killed and their commanding officer, Lieutenant Brown, was 
fatally wounded. 

During the remaining years of the Civil War St. Augustine 
was merely a quiet garrison town under martial law, with 
the avenues of approach duly guarded and gunboats often at 
anchor inside the bar. The soldiers of the garrison, like the 
Spaniards and the English who preceded them in former 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 153 

wars, enjoyed such excellent liealfcli that the sick list proved 
a telling advertisement for the healthfulness of the climate. 

No sooner were hostilities over than inquiries began to 
arrive from the North as to hotel accommodations for the 
coming winter, and very soon the sound of preparation 
was heard. New hotels were built, largely with Northern 
capital, new and unfamiliar Paris fashions appeared with 
early winter along the sea-wall, and the old Spanish city en- 
tered upon a career of prosperity which soon surpassed her 
wildest dreams. 



Description. 

The city of St. Augustine stands near the southern extrem- 
ity of a peninsula formed by the Matanzas and San Se- 
bastian Rivers. The land is in the main level, low in some 
places, and where not cultivated is covered with the beach 
scrub common to this vicinity. The land approaches to 
St. Augustine are by no means inviting, as all three of the 
railroad lines thread miles of flat woods and cross other miles 
of prairie before the towers and spires of the city can be 
seen. Carriages and hotel stages are always in waiting at 
the station, and the drive to the city, about three-quarters of 
a mile, is over a delightfully smooth asphalt pavement. A 
wide range of choice is offered in the matter of hotels and 
boarding-houses. 

TJie Plaza de la Constitucion and its surroundings form the 
nucleus of the city. This iDublic square was established 
when the town was originally laid out. Its dimensions are 
very modest, though the narrowness of the adjacent streets 
lend it, by contrast, some apparent extent. Standing on the 
sea-wall and facing eastward, one looks across Matanzas 
Eiver, three-quarters of a mile, to Anastasia Island with its 
spiral striped lighthouse, its wharf and miniature railroad 
train, scrub-palmetto and bushes. To the left the land 
drops away to a beach, where Sir Francis Drake posted a 
gun one evening in 1586 and pounded away, as the sun went 
down, at the grim old fortress opposite. Beyond the point 
is St. Augustine Inlet, La Riviere des Dauphines as the 




ST. AUGUSTINE — MAP OF HARBOR AND BEACHES. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 155 

French Huguenot Laudonniere named it before the Span- 
iards set foot on its shores. Beyoud this again is North 
Beach and the Tolomato Eiver. To the right Matanzas 
Eiver and the shores of Anastasia Island disappear in the 
distance. 

Turning westward toward the Plaza we face the pretty 
stretch of greensward with its shade trees. Almost opposite, 
in the foreground, is the "Old Slave Market," popularly so 
called, though in reality the original structure was a provis- 
ion market, built in 184:0, and used as such until the city 
outgrew its accommodations. The roof and woodwork were 
burned in 1887, but the structure was subsequently rebuilt 
and serves mainly as a lounging-place. Originally the square 
was probably designed as a parade-ground, and as such it 
was certainly used by the British and by the United States 
troops during the Civil War. 

The white coquina monument surmounted by a cannon- 
ball commemorates the adoption by the Spanish Cortez in 
1812 of a new constitution, whence the Plaza takes its of- 
ficial name. The monument was erected in 1813. The in- 
scription translated reads as follows : 

" Plaza of the Constitution promulgated in the city of Sfc. 
Augustine, in East Florida, on the 17th day of October, in 
the year 1812; the Brigadier Don Sebastian Kindalem, 
Knight of the Order of Santiago, being Governor. For eter- 
nal remembrance the Constitutional City Council erected 
this monument, under the superintendence of Don Fernando 
de la Maza Arredondo, the young municipal officer, oldest 
member of the corporation, and Don Francisco Robira, At- 
torney and Eecorder. In the year 1813." 

In 1814 Ferdinand VII. was recalled to the Spanish throne, 
and straightway repudiating his pledge to support the 
new " constitucion " ordered all the commemorative mon- 
uments that had been erected to be torn down. Alone, it is 
believed, the far-away province of Florida neglected to obey 
the royal behest. The tablets were removed as a salve to 
loyal consciences, but in 1818 they were replaced and so the 
monument fortunately survives as a curious memento of the 
past. 



156 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

The other monument under the trees on the north side of 
the Plaza commemorates the Confederate dead of St. Augus- 
tine. One face bears this inscription : " Our Dead. Erected 
by the Ladies' Memorial Association of St. Augustine, Fla., 
A.D. 1872." The second : "In Memoriam. Our loved ones 
who gave their lives in the service of the Confederate States.'' 
On the third face : " They died far from the home that gave 
them birth." And the fourth : " They have crossed the river 
and rest under the shade of the' trees." The shaft is of co- 
quina. 

The Plaza has always been, and is still the scene of public 
meetings. Here the men-at-arms gathered when the alarm 
gun was fired in the old days of the French, English, and 
American Wars. Here in 1776 the royalists burned Adams 
and Hancock in eflSgy, when the news, a fortnight or more 
old, came from distant Philadelphia that the Declaration of 
Independence had been signed. Here the Florida Vol- 
unteers fell in on a January morning of 1861 and marched to 
take possession of Fort Marion, and thence subsequently 
they marched away to four years of fratricidal war and final 
defeat. And here, finally, after peace was restored, the Dec- 
laration of Independence was read before a mass meeting of 
approving citizens. On the right, or north side, of the Plaza 
is St. Joseph's Cathedral, built under Spanish rule and 
finished in 1701. It was burned in 1887, and immediately 
rebuilt, enlarged, and most tastefully improved by Messrs. 
Carriere & Hastings, architects. Thus the cathedral could 
not, even had it escaped the flames, have claimed a remote 
antiquity, even in the American acceptation of the term. Its 
predecessor, however, dated back to 1682 or thereabout, one 
of the old bells, still preserved, bearing that date and the 
legend Sancte — Joseph — Oka — Pko — Nobis. 

On the left is the modest spire of Trinity Church, episco- 
palian, and beyond are the post-oflSce, and the towers of the 
great Ponce de Leon and Cordova hotels. To the north and 
south at either hand stretches the sea-wall, terminated at the 
south by the United States Barracks and at the north by 
Fort Marion. 

The Sea- Wall Some x3rotection against the inroads of the 




JSTINE. 



Depot. 

San Marco Hotel. 

Warden's. 

Cemetery. 

Fort Marion. 

Gateway. 

Museum. 

Methodist Church. 

Magnolia Hotel. 

Opera House. 

Hernandez Hotel. 

Florida House. 

Bath House. 

Court House. 

Yacht Club. 

Bank. 

Cathedral. 

Bishop Moore's. 

Studios. 

Hotel Ponce de Leon. 

Alcazar. 

Hotel Cordova. 

Post Office. 

Old Market. 

Plaza. 

Plaza Basin. 

Plaza Hotel. 

School. 

Episcopal Church. 

Lyon Block. 

Villa Zorayda. 

Presbyterian Church. 

Barracks Basni. 

Parade. 

Barracks. 

Military Cemetery. 

Water Park. 

New Presbyterian Church. 




MAP OF ST. AUGiaSTIWE. 



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T«.V60l 



.['3toH R,W^ ,V 






SAINT AUGUSTINE. 157 

ocean became necessary as soon as St. Augustine began to 
consider itself a permanent place of abode. Easterly storms 
with their accompanying high tides often drove the water up 
into the streets, and even now the spray at times flies over 
the stone coping. The first wall was begun in 1690, under 
the administration of Diego de Quiroza y Dosada, who was 
Governor at the time. It extended from the Fort to the 
Plaza and its remains are not far beneath the present sur- 
face of the street. Its location and extent are shown on 
a map of the town made during British occupancy. It is of 
record that the Spanish soldiers voluntarily contributed 
labor and money to aid in its construction. The present 
wall was begun in 1835 by the United States Government, 
and was finished in 184:2. It is three-quarters of a mile long, 
built of coquina, with a coping of granite three feet wide. 
The wall itself is ten feet above low-water mark. The cost 
was about $100,000. There are two breaks in the wall, af- 
fording access to the water's edge, one opposite the Plaza, 
and the other near the barracks. These breaks are protected 
by out-walls and the basins are used for loading and un- 
loading fish, fruit, and the other products of sea and shore. 
The Minorcans. In the early part of the present century 
the population of the city was largely made up of natives of 
the Balearic Isles, Minorca and Majorca, lying in the western 
Mediterranean, oJff the coast of Spain. These people were 
brought over by Dr. Andrew Turnbull (see Koute 63), in 
1790, with a view to establishing a colony at New Smyrna, but 
they revolted against the rule of his agents, and most of them 
came to St. Augustine, where, for a generation they formed 
a distinct class of the population. A few of their descend- 
ants remain, distinguished by dark eyes, hair, and com- 
plexion, but for the most part they have intermarried with 
Americans, and race characteristics have been largely modi- 
fied, or have disappeared altogether. 

Fort Marion. Any of the streets running north — parallel 
to the sea-wall, that is — lead to this ancient fortress, the most 
important and interesting of the Spanish relics. 

On or near this site Menendez constructed a wooden fort 



158 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

in 1565, and named it St. John of the Pines (San Juan de 
Pinos). It was, according to the most trustworthy accounts, 
octagonal in form, and mounted fourteen brass cannon. It 
was this fort that Sir Francis Drake destroyed in 1586, the 
garrison having fled with but a faint show of resistance. 

By this time the Spaniards had discovered the valuable 
properties of coquina for building purposes, and their sub- 
sequent works were of the more durable and less combustible 
material. Little is known of the structure that was threat- 
ened by Davis, the English buccaneer, in 1665, but its walls 
were at that time well advanced, having been pushed forward 
by the labor of Indian captives and convicts from Spain and 
Mexico. We have the testimony of Jonathan Dickinson, a 
Philadelphia Quaker, who was here in 1695, that the walls 
were thirty feet high at that time. Seven years later (1702) 
they were certainly far enough completed to defy Governor 
Moore, of South Carolina, and in 1740 Governor Oglethorpe, 
of Georgia, hammered away at them for more than a month 
without producing any perceptible impression. 

The Spaniards named the fort San Marco, the English 
changed the name to St. John, and on retrocession to Sj)ain 
in 1783, San Marco was once more recognized. On the ac- 
cession of the United States the saints were laid aside, and 
the name of the patriot soldier of South Carolina was 
adopted by the War Department. 

The fort is planned in accordance with the Vauban system 
of fortification, which, up to the beginning of the jD^esent 
century was considered the best. A plan of the work, with 
its outlying defences and the modern water batteries, is aj)- 
pended. 

Approaching from the direction of the town the visitor as- 
cends a path leading up what was formerly the exterior 
slope of the glacis. The mass of masonry on the left, 
pierced for cannon and musketry, is the barbican, an outwork 
intended for the protection of the weakest point in the main 
work, namely, the entrance. An extension of the moat in- 
cludes the barbican, and both moats are now crossed by 
rough plank platforms, where once were regular drawbridges. 
On the left, after passing the angle of the barbican, is a niche 



MOAT 




5Q 



PLAN OF FORT MARION. 

1. Bridge from glacis to barbican. 2. Stairway to barbican parapet. 3. 
Bridge. 4. Sally-port. 5. Arched passage. 6. Bakery. 7, 8. Store-rooms. 
9, 10. Store-rooms. 11. Bomb-proof. 12. Chapel. 13. Store-room. 14. Treas- 
ure room. 15. Casemate from which Coacoochee and Osceola escaped. 16, 
17. Dark vaults, 18. Guard-room. 19. Incline to parapet. B, B, B, B. Bast- 
ions, each with a protected watch-tower, W, in the salient angle. The spaces 
left blank are ventilated casemates designed for quarters and the like. 



160 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

opening into a stairway, and containing, carved in stone, 
the royal arms of Spain, wliich, in a sadly dilapidated con- 
dition, barely survive the rough handling to which they have 
been subjected by the elements all the time, and by witless 
vandals at intervals, until protected by an iron grating. 

Turning to the right, another rude structure of planks 
crosses the wide moat and leads to the entrance. Above this 
again are the arms of Spain with an almost obliterated in- 
scription which, restored and translated, reads as follows : 

KEYNANDO EN ESPANA EL SEN^ 

DON FERNANDO SEXTO Y SIENDO 

GOV«^ Y CAP« DE ES^ C° S^^ AUG^ DE 

LA FLORIDA Y SUS PROV^ EL MARESCAL 

DE CAMPO D ALONZO FERN"« HEREDIA 

ASI CONCLUIO ESTE CASTLLO EL AN. 

OD 1756 DIRIGIENDO LAS OBR. 

CAP INGN»«^ DN PEDRO DE BROZAS Y GARAY. 

"Don Ferdinand VI., being King of Spain, and the Field 
Marshal Don Alonzo Fernando Hereda, being Governor and 
Captain-General of this x)lace, St. Augustine, of Florida, and 
its province. This fort was finished in the year 1756. The 
works were directed by the Captain-Engineer Don Pedro de 
Brazos of Garay." 

This door is provided with a heavy portcullis, which still 
remains in jDosition, though hardly in working order. The 
door or sally-port is barely wide enough for four men to 
march abreast. Within is a wide arched passage leading to 
the open parade inside the walls. On either side of the 
passage are doors leading to the vaulted chambers or case- 
mates that surround the parade on all sides, and served in 
their time as quarters for the garrison, as cells for prisoners, 
including American rebels during the revolution, and Indian 
captives in more recent times. 

The sergeant in charge of the fort conducts visitors through 
the casemates. As this is not part of his regular duty, a fee 
(25c. for each person, or one dollar for a party of several) is 
customary. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 161 

On tlie left of the entrance passage is the guard-room and 
on the right is the bakery, through which access is had to 
two dark vaults, used, no doubt, for storage. 

The terreplein, or parade, is 103 by 109 feet, and a broad 
stairway, formerly an inclined plane for the easier handling 
of gun-carriages and the like, leads to the parapet. Directly 
opposite the entrance is the chapel, without which no Span- 
ish fort of that period was complete ; in it are still visible 
the stations of shrine and altar, and other evidences of the 
decoration customary in such places. It was used for re- 
ligious services as late as 1860 or thereabout, and was turned 
into a schoolroom for the Western Indians who were con- 
fined here in 1875-78. The portico of the chapel was orig- 
inally quite an elaborate bit of decorative architecture, but 
it has long since disappeared. 

In 1882 a party of French astronomers had the use of the 
fort as a station to observe the transit of Venus, and a tablet 
near the chapel-door commemorates their visit. It bears 
this inscription : " Plaque commemorative du passage de 
Venus, observe au Fort Marion le 9 Decembre 1882, par MM. 
le Colonel Perrier, le Commandant Bassat, le Capitaine 
Deffoges de I'armee Francaise." 

The casemates are in the main alike, dark vaults, some of 
them lofty, others divided into two stories, some dimly 
lighted through narrow slits high up near the ceiling, others 
totally dark save for the entrance-doors. 

That captives, red and white, pagan and Christian, have 
pined away their lives in more than one of these dungeons 
is extremely probable when it is remembered that not so very 
long ago the rack and the stake were instruments of nomi- 
nally Christian offices, but no records remain, and the imagi- 
nation may have full play as regards most of the casemates. 

Two of them, however, have authentic histories. In the 
one marked 15, near the southwest bastion, Coacoochee 
and Osceola, two of the most celebrated Seminole chiefs, 
were confined during the war that lasted from 1835 till 1842. 
After the final subjugation of the tribe Coacoochee gave the 
following account of their escape : 

" We had been growing sickly from day to day and so re- 



162 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

solved to make our escape or die in the attempt. We were 
in a room eighteen or twenty feet square. All the light ad- 
mitted was through a hole about eighteen feet from the 
floor. Through this we must effect our escape, or remain 
and die with sickness. A sentinel was constantly j)osted at 
the door. As we looked at it from our beds, we thought it 
small, but believed that, could we get our heads through we 
should have no further nor serious difficulty. To reach the 
hole was the first object. In order to effect this we from 
time to time cut up the forage-bags allowed us to sleep on, 
and made them into ropes. The hole I could not reach 
when upon the shoulder of my companion ; but while stand- 
ing upon his shoulder, I worked a knife into a crevice of 
the stonework, as far up as I could reach, and upon this I 
raised myself to the opening, when I found that, with some 
reduction of person, I could get through. In order to re- 
duce ourselves as much as possible we took medicine five 
days. Under the pretext of being veiy sick, we were per- 
mitted to obtain the roots we required. For some weeks we 
watched the moon, in order that the night of our attempt it 
should be as dark as possible. At the proper time we com- 
menced the medicine, calculating on the entire disaj)pear- 
ance of the moon. The keeper of this prison, on the night 
determined upon to make the effort, annoyed us by fre- 
quently coming into the room, and talking and singing. At 
first we thought of tying him and putting his head in a bag, 
so that, should he call for assistance, he could not be heard. 
We first, however, tried the experiment of pretending to be 
asleep, and when he returned to pay no regard to him. This 
accomplished our object. He came in, and went immedi- 
ately out ; and we could hear him snore in the immediate 
vicinity of the door. I then took the rope, which we had 
secreted under our bed, and mounting upon the shoulder of 
my comrade, raised myself by the knife worked into the 
crevices of the stone, and succeeded in reaching the embras- 
ure. Here I made fast the rope that my friend might fol- 
low me. I then passed through the hole a sufficient length 
of it to reach the ground upon the outside (about twenty- 
five feet) in the ditch. I had calculated the distance when 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 163 

going for roots. With mucli difficulty I succeeded in get- 
ting my head through ; for the sharp stones took the skin 
off my breast and back. Putting my head through first I 
was obliged to go down head foremost, nntil my feet were 
through, fearing every moment the rope would break. At 
last, safely on the ground, I awaited with anxiety the arrival 
of my comrade. I had passed another rope through the 
hole, which, in the event of discovery, Talmus Hadjo 
(Osceola), was to pull, as a signal to me from the outside, 
that he was discovered, and could not come. As soon as I 
struck the ground, I took hold of the signal for intelligence 
fi'om my friend. The night was very dark. Two men 
passed near me, talking earnestly, and I could see them dis- 
tinctly. Soon I heard the struggle of my companion far 
above me. He had succeeded in getting his head through, 
but his body would come no farther. In the lowest tone of 
voice, I urged him to throw out his breath, and then try ; 
soon after he came tumbling down the whole distance. For 
a few moments I thought him dead. I dragged him to some 
water close by, which restored him, but his leg was so lame 
he was unable to walk. I took him upon my shoulder to a 
scrub, near the town. Daylight was just breaking, it was 
evident we must move rapidly. I caught a mule in the ad- 
joining field, and making a bridle out of my sash, mounted 
my companion, and started for the St. John's Eiver. The 
mule was used one day, but fearing the whites would track 
us, we felt more secure on foot in the hammock, though 
moving very slow. Thus we continued our journey five 
days, subsisting on roots and berries, when I joined my band, 
then assembled on the headwaters of the Tomoka Eiver, 
near the Atlantic coast." 

Osceola was subsequently recaptured and sent to Fort 
Moultrie, Charleston, S. C, where he died. 

During the years 1875-78 the fort was again used as a 
prison for Indians brought from the far West. Their cap- 
tivity was nominal during good behavior, and some attempts 
were made to educate them. 

Within the northeastern bastion is a chamber known as 
"the dungeon," though there is good reason for believing 



164 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

that it was originally intended as a magazine. In 1839 the 
masonry in one of the adjacent vaults caved in, and, while 
repairs were in progress, it was discovered that there was 
still another innermost chamber, whose existence had not 
before been suspected. The wall was broken through, and, 
among other refuse, some bones were found so far gone in 
decomposition that the post surgeon could not determine 
whether they were human or not. The rumor spread, how- 
ever, that an entire skeleton had been found chained to the 
wall, and that implements were scattered about suggestive of 
the *' Holy Inquisition " and a chamber of horrors. The tale 
grew by repetition and for many years it was generally be- 
lieved that the dungeon had once been the scene of a tragedy. 
The author of the "Standard Guide to St. Augustine," how- 
ever, cites the statement of an old resident of the city, who 
was employed at the fort when a boy, and remembers the old 
disused magazine in the northeast bastion. According to this 
account, during the later days of Spanish occupancy the mag- 
azine fell out of repair, and became a receptacle for refuse of 
all sorts, until finally it was walled up, being regarded as a 
menace to health. There are still those who insist that the 
tragic accounts of the "dungeon" are the true ones, but 
the weight of evidence seems to be in favor of the more pro- 
saic version. 

Ascending to the parapet, the commanding position of the 
fort is apparent, and the outlook in all directions is very in- 
teresting. With the aid of the map on page 159 all the 
noteworthy points of interest can be traced, and many of the 
historic localities identified. 

In the salient angle of each bastion is a sentry-box of 
stone, where a man-at-arms might be tolerably secure against 
Indian arrows, or even against the firearms of the last 
century ; on the northeastern bastion, the most exposed of 
the four, the sentry-box has a supplementary story or watch- 
tower, whence a still wider outlook may be obtained. 

To the non-military visitor, who knows not the uses of bas- 
tions, their purpose will at once become evident on looking 
over the parapet. Soldiers posted in these projecting angles 
can, it is easily seen, deliver a direct fire sweeping the entire 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 165 

moat to and beyond the salient of the opposite bastion. 
Bastioned works reached their complete development under 
the system of Vauban, one of whose disciples, Captain 
Pedro de" Brozas y Garay, was the engineer in charge of the 
construction of the fort. 

It is not likely that, even in case of a foreign war, guns 
will ever again be mounted en barhette on Fort Marion. Even 
if the coquina masonry could sustain the weight of modern 
ordnance, it could not long withstand the impact of modern 
projectiles. For this reason the water-battery along the sea- 
face was built in 1842, but the gun-platforms were never 
finished, and the whole work is long out of date. The guns 
that lie rusting along the glacis mostly antedate the Civil 
War, and are worthless save as old iron. 

The floor of the moat was originally of cement, but it is 
covered deep with sand and soil. When the old fort was in 
fighting trim this moat could be flooded at high tide. A 
stairway near the barbican permits easy descent into the 
moat for those who do not choose to jump or climb down 
from the crest of the counterscarp. From this level a better 
idea of the height of the walls is obtained, and one can 
readily understand how Osceola was effectually disabled by 
his fall from the narrow opening through which he and 
Coacoochee squeezed themselves in the western face of the 
fort. 

Along the eastern or sea front numerous scars and in- 
dentations may be seen in the masonry, some of which were 
made by British guns during Oglethorpe's siege in 1740. 
These respectable old wounds will readily be distinguished 
from the ones that have been inflicted by modern riflemen, 
who have at times used the moat as a shooting-gallery. The 
use of all firearms within the fort is now very properly pro- 
hibited. 

The small brick building in the eastern moat is a furnace 
to heat shot for the water battery. It was built in 1844. 

St. Francis Barracks are named from the old Franciscan 
convent, whose site they occupy. They stand at the south- 
ern end of Bay Street. In front, facing the water, are the 
officers' quarters, with barracks for enlisted men in the rear. 



166 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

Usually two companies of regulars are in garrison at this 
post. The parade in front of the barracks is flanked on the 
south by the adjutant's offices and ordnance sheds, and the 
open space is used as a drill-ground and for the usual 
routine parades and inspections of the small garrison. 

The old convent was abandoned for religious purposes 
when the British took possession in 1763, and was used as 
barracks when the Spaniards returned twenty years after- 
ward. Although the buildings have been largely remodelled 
and rebuilt, some of the old coquina convent walls are still 
standing, and are believed to be among the oldest structures 
in the city. It is singular that the memory of St. Francis 
should be perpetuated at one end of the city, while that of 
St. Mark was obliterated at the other end when the United 
States took possession, but such are the inconsistencies of 
history. 

The convent in its time was the headquarters of missionary 
life in Florida, Thence the devoted priests went out and 
built their little chapels from the everglades to the Suwan- 
nee, and thither, if at all, they returned, often broken down 
with the labors and perils of their voluntary exile. 
^ A few steps beyond the officers' quarters is the military 
cemetery, kept in beautiful order by the garrison, and worthy 
of a visit for its associations. Here, under three low pyra- 
mids of masonry, lie many of the soldiers who perished in 
the Seminole War. Near by is a shaft to the memory of 
Major Dade and his command, almost the first victims of the 
long and bloody war that followed. 

The inscription reads : " Sacred to the memory of the Of- 
ficers and Soldiers killed in battle and died on service dur- 
ing the Florida War, This monument has been erected in 
token of respectful and affectionate remembrance by their 
comrades of all grades, and is committed to the care and 
preservation of the garrison of St, Augustine." 

Museums. Ghaphi's 3Iuseum, near Fort Marion, contains 
the most considerable collection of relics, Spanish and In- 
dian arms, armor and implements, and natural curiosities in 
the State. The preserved specimens of birds, beasts, fishes, 
and reptiles are numerous. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. * 167 

Vedder's Museum, on Bay Street, a short distance north of 
the Plaza, adds to a miscellaneous collection of curios many 
living birds, animals, and reptiles. The snake-room is es- 
pecially worthy of a visit, and the building in which the 
collection is ke^Dt is part of the old Spanish prison, and some 
of the time-worn interior fittings are still visible. 

The St. Augustine Institute of Natural Science has its col- 
lection in No. 33 Alcazar Court ; hours 2 to 5 p.m. ; admis- 
sion free. 

The Villa Zorayda. This building faces the Alameda 
near the great hotels. It was the first specimen of mono- 
lithic architecture in the city, and was in this sense the 
pioneer of modern St. Augustine. The credit is due to Mr. 
Franklin W. Smith, of Boston, who made the first experi- 
ments, forming a concrete with fine shells, Portland cement, 
and sand. While in a semi-liquid condition, the mixture is 
poured into moulds made of boards, where it quickly hardens. 
By setting up the moulds where the walls of the intended 
building are to stand, the whole structure can be solidly 
built up by pouring in successive layers of concrete. "When 
finished in its natural tint, the wall presents a slightly rough 
surface, cool gray in color, and of a substance that has thus 
far perfectly endured the test of exposure. While in the 
semi-liquid state the cement readily takes any desired color, 
and may thus be adapted to nearly all the requirements of 
decorative architecture. 

The Villa Zorayda was also the first modern building to 
be erected after the Moorish order. Over the entrance is an 
Arabic inscription, signifying "There is no Conqueror but 
God " — the motto of Mohammed Aben Alahmas, founder of 
the Alhambra. The interior has the traditional open court 
with double galleries, and all is decorated in the Moorish 
style, many of the motives having been derived from the 
Alhambra itself, and from other famous buildings of similar 
design. 

The Alameda Hotels. It is not the province of a general 
guide-book to make distinctions in the matter of hotels, but 
the Alameda group is so remarkable that it seems no more 
than right that an exception should be made. The Alameda 



168 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

itself is an open Plaza with asphalt drives, footways, foun- 
tains, and parterres of tropical plants. On the north side is 
the Ponce de Leon, on the south the Alcazar, on the east the 
Cordova, and on the west the Villa Zorayda. The present 
appearance of this Plaza is due to the foresight of Mr. Henry 
M. Flagler and to his choice of architects, Messrs. Carrere 
& Hastings, of New York — neither could have achieved the 
present result without the other. 

The architecture of the Ponce de Leon is Spanish — not 
Moorish, as is sometimes erroneously said. It represents the 
best school of Spanish art, and instead of being a copy of any 
existing examples is the result of conscientious study of 
princij)les that have made famous the cathedrals, universi- 
ties, and palaces of classic Spain. 

The Ponce de Leon faces 380 feet on the Alameda, and 
520 feet on Cordova and Seville Streets. The main building 
with its accessory j)ortico surrounds a court 150 feet square, 
with a central fountain and carefully tended beds of flowers. 

On three sides of the court rise the arched galleries, quaint 
windows, and red-tiled roofs of the main building, while 
across the fourth side, that toward the Alameda, stretches 
a roofed portico, which is in fact a continuation of the main 
lower galleries. Above all this rises the central dome, and 
above this again lofty square towers with pointed finial 
roofs, shaded balconies, and admirable decorative devices in 
iron and terra cotta. 

To describe the vast establishment in detail is impracti- 
cable, but a few words are called for regarding the rotunda 
and the dinii^g-hall. Just within the front or main door- 
way are the spacious vestibule and rotunda, opening a fine 
perspective of columns, caryatides and rich decoration, lead- 
ing by a short flight of steps into the dining-hall beyond. 
The pavement of the rotunda and its adjacent corridors is a 
marble mosaic, small fragments set in cement and arranged 
in tasteful patterns. The wainscot is of Numidian marble. 

The central dome or rotunda rises in four interior galler- 
ies, with arcades agreeably varied in the successive stories. 
The whole is supported by four piers and eight columns of 
solid oak, carved in caryatid figures of remarkable grace and 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 169 

beauty. These are arranged in groups of fours, standing 
back to back, and admirably posed to convey at once an idea 
of strength and lightness. 

The decorative standing figures painted on the interspaces 
of the second story are typical of Adventure, Discovery, Con- 
quest, and Civilization. The seated figures represent Earth, 
Air, Fire, and Water. Adventure wears an eagle-crested hel- 
met with a cuirass, and holds a drawn sword, while behind 
her a sheaf of arrows radiate to form a background. Dis- 
covery holds a globe in her right hand and rests her left 
vipon a tiller, her sea-blue robe contrasting with sails and 
cordage. Conquest is in full panoply of mail with helmet 
and red draperies, and the gleam of poniards in the back- 
ground. Civilization is clad in white, with an open book 
and the symbols of Christianity as accessories. Of the seat- 
ed figures Earth is in a russet robe with fruits and flowers 
and peacocks of gorgeous plumage, while, by way of con- 
trast. Air holds two eagles in leash and with translucent 
draperies of pale blue seems the incarnation of airiness and 
light. Fire, auburn-haired and clothed in red, stands amid 
tongues of flame grasping a blazing torch, with fire-endur- 
ing salamanders in arabesques around her. Water stands 
upon a shell to which are harnessed sea-horses. Her robes 
are pale green and white, and all the accessories are sugges- 
tive of the sea and its mystery. 

The decoration of the upper stories is less conspicuous 
until the dome is reached, where Cupids join hands around 
the lower rim, and the highest vault is beautifully modelled 
in delicate patterns of white and gold, with armor and sails, 
and eagles soaring above all. 

A massive yet graceful archway of red Verona marble, with 
spandrel patterns in variegated mosaics, leads to the great 
dining-hall, a room so well proportioned that its noble 
dimensions are at first hardly suspected, and so bold in de- 
sign and rich in decoration that, though finished in 1887, it 
is already famous among students of architecture. The ex- 
treme dimensions are 90 by 150 feet, with seats for 800 guests. 
The central section of the hall is square, with an arched or 
semi-cylindrical ceiling — technically an elliptical barrel- 



170 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

vault. At the sides this arch is supported by rows of oak 
columns, and beyond the columns are spacious alcoves, form- 
ing a part of the grand hall and yet sufficiently separated 
from it to prevent the sense of too great space, so often a 
characteristic of large dining-rooms. The ceilings of the 
alcoves are comparatively low, and each is bounded at the 
wings by great bay windows through which the daylight 
streams in subdued radiance, and which at night reflect 
gleams of blue and gold from the electric globes overhead. 

The decorations of the central arch will command the at- 
tention of every appreciative visitor. In the spandrels of 
the side arches are the four seasons, duplicated though not 
repeated. Spring on one side is sowing grain, on the other 
she holds early flowers and opening buds. Summer on the 
right is in the shade of trees, on the left the grain and 
sickle suggest industry. One Autumn personates the 
vintage, the other the harvest, and Winter appears in the 
double role of a woodcutter and a master of festivities. 
In the semicircular spaces over the musicians' galleries are 
Spanish ships in all the glory of gala attire, and in quaint 
letters on wall and ceiling are Spanish proverbs, suggestive 
mainly of good cheer (see below). 

On the ceilings of the alcoves the history of Florida is most 
ingeniously worked out in a series of what may p)erhaps be 
termed conventionalized Indian hieroglyphics. H'ere may 
be found the triumphant caravels of Ponce de Leon, the 
wrecked vessels of Narvaez, the fieur-de-Us of Huguenot 
France, the lion of Spain, the rude fort of the early settle- 
ment, the cross of St. George, the naval bombardments, the 
sieges, and finally the American national emblems closing 
the record with the year 1821. 

A happier conception than this picture-written history of 
Florida it were hard indeed to find, and the skill and in- 
genuity with which it has been realized are deserving of the 
highest praise. With the aid of the summaries given else- 
where almost every event of considerable importance may be 
found rei)resented in the beautiful tracery of these alcoves. 

Inscriptions, Mottoes, Etc. — The various inscrii)tions in 
Latin and Spanish are interesting, and often perplexing to 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 171 

visitors. Many of the shields bear simply the names of cities 
and provinces of Spain, and need no translation. 

In the court-yard, near the west entrance, is a terra cotta 
shield with this inscription : Con lo que Sagno sano Do- 
mingo ADOLECE — What is one man's meat is another man's 
poison (literally, " What keeps Sagno well makes Domingo 
sick"). 

At the eastern entrance : Oveja que bala bocado piekde — 
The sheep that bleats misses a bite. On the escutcheons at 
right and left of the entrance from court to rotunda : No sb 
HACEN TORTILLAS SIN KOMPER Hu^vos — ^You Can't make om- 
elettes without breaking eggs ; Quien quando puede no 
QuiERE, QUANDO QUiERE NO PUEDE — He that will not wlicu lie 
may, may not when he will. 

BiEN Venido — Welcome, is the legend that greets the 
visitor who enters from the drive -way. 

On the first landing of the steps leading from rotunda to 
dining-room is the concluding verse of William Slijenstone's 
ode " Written at an Inn at Henley," jjrobably about 1740 : 

Whoe'er has travelled life's dull round, 
Where'er his stages may have been, 

May sigh to think he still has found 
The warmest welcome at an inn. 

Over the main entrance to the dining-room is a shield in- 
scribed : JusTiciA hechores contra Alava Mal — Alava dooms 
those who strive against her. 

In the dining-room on the west side of the central arch 
are four Spanish j)roverbs : Amigo viejo tocino y vino 
ANEJO — An old friend is both meat and drink ; Quien pruviero 
LLEGA esela calza — First come first served ; De la mano a la 
BOCA SE piERDE LA soPA — Tlicrc's many a slip 'twixt the cup 
and the lip (literally, "Between the hand and the mouth 
the soup is lost ") ; El buen vino no ha menester pregonero 
— Good wine needs no bush. 

On the east side of the arch are these : Oveja que bala 
bocado pierde — The sheep that bleats misses a bite ; Ee- 
muda de pasturage hace bizzeros cordos — Change of feed 



172 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

makes fat cattle ; Quien mucho abraza poco aprieta— He 
who grasps much, keeps but little ; Quien mas sabe, mas 
CALiiA — Who knows most says least. 

In the west alcove, over and above the arches, near the 
bay windows, are shields, inscribed for the most part with 
the arms, names, and mottoes of Spanish cities. Here and 
there are legends as : Cadiz — Hercules dominator fundator, 
in recognition of the Phoenician Hercules, as the fabled 
founder and ruler of the ancient town. Soria cabeza de 
ESSORIA PURA REMADURA, a punning motto of the town and 
province of Soria. 

On the semicircular ceiling of the west alcove are four 
signs of the zodiac — Scorpio, Saggitarius, Leo, Virgo, and 
many of the famous names identified with the early history 
of Florida. 

The corresponding spaces in the eastern alcove bear the 
four signs, Pisces, Aquarius, Taurus, Gemini, with historical 
names and dates ingeniously repeated in varied form, with 
names and arms of cities, including that of Huelva, a mari- 
time city in Spain, in Latin : Huelva, et terr^ custodia 
PORTus MARIS — Huclva, entrance of the sea and guardian of 
the land. 

The frescoes and mural decorations are by Messrs. Thomas 
Hastings, George W. Maynard, and H. T. Schladermundt. 

The whole building is in keeping with the magnificence 
of which a brief and inadequate description has been at- 
tempted regarding two of the principal divisions, but no de- 
tailed general account can here be given. The visitor should 
not fail to visit the tower and roof terraces, and permits can 
be obtained at the oflSice to inspect the kitchens, laundries, 
and other domestic departments. 

Facing the Ponce de Leon, on the opposite side of the Ala- 
meda, is the Alcazar, an adjunct of the main hotel, the work 
of the same architects, and like it in the Spanish renaissance 
style. The name is from the Al-Kasr (House of Caesar), but 
the design is original and wholly unlike that of the famous 
Palace of Seville. The general plan embraces an interior 
court with a garden and fountains, surrounded by open ar- 
cades, shops, and offices, and a large restaurant. Beyond 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 173 

are magnificent swimming-baths of water drawn from an ar- 
tesian well, aerated to free it from the odor of sulphur, and 
turned at once into the bath, where it falls in a sheet of 
beautifully clear greenish water, exactly at the right tem- 
perature for swimming. 

Beyond the bath are courts for tennis and croquet, where 
there are yearly matches and tournaments of interest to all 
lovers of these games. 

The lodging-rooms in the Alcazar are all provided with 
private baths, and are charged at a fixed rate, on what is 
termed in America the " European plan." An excellent res- 
taurant is connected with the establishment, but guests are 
free to go where they please for meals. The Alcazar is open 
throughout the year. 

The Hotel Cordova (formerly known as the Casa Monica) 
was the first of the Alameda group. Like its neighbors, it 
is monolithic, but its style of architecture diff'ers from theirs 
in that it is suggestive of tlie arts of war rather than of 
peace. Its architect is Mr. F. W. Smith, of Boston, to whom 
is due the credit of having made the first experiments in the 
composition of coquina concrete. The motives for the 
lieavy battlemented walls and towers are found in the castles 
of Moorish Spain. The northern entrance is an adaptation 
of the Puerto del Sol of Toledo, and the balconies are after 
those said to have originated in Seville, and known as 
*' kneeling balconies." They are said to have been designed 
by Michael Angelo, for the convenience of devotees, who 
desired to kneel during the passage of religious processions. 

The City Gates. All that remains of the ancient defences 
of St. Augustine stands at the head of St. George Street ; 
two solid, square posts — for they are not high enough to be 
termed towers — flanked by a few yards of coquina wall. The 
stone sentry-boxes still remain in the interior buttresses. 
According to tradition, a guardhouse once stood just within, 
and a drawbridge crossed the moat. Only a few yards of wall 
now remain flanking the gates, and it is not known how far, 
in its best estate, it extended. The most formidable of the 
fortifications defended the land approach, and substantial 
earthworks once reached from river to river, the exterior 



174 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

slope of the parapet being covered with a dense growth of 
Spanish bayonet, through which it is well-nigh impossible 
to force a passage. Old engravings of the city show it as a 
completely walled town, and the visitor may find on some of 
the ancient tombstones in the cemetery Latin inscriptions 
containing the word oppidum^ which was often used to dis- 
tinguish a walled town from one without such defences. 
The coquina dwellings of the present town are largely com- 
posed of material plundered from still older structures, and 
there is no way of determining how many roods of city wall 
were taken by builders who cared nothing for Spanish relics. 

The present gateway was the principal entrance, was 
strongly guarded, and repeatedly saved the town from the 
sudden onslaught of savage or civilized foes. 

The Coast. Between the mouth of St. John's Eiver and 
St. Augustine Inlet, the coast is an unbroken sand beach 
nearly forty miles long, backed by scrub-covered sand hills 
and strewn with the wreckage of centuries. For walking, 
riding, driving, or wheeling no highway made by mortal 
hands can approach this superb beach during the hours 
when the tide is not at its highest. The coast is monotonous, 
to be sure, but the sea is ever beautiful in color, and there 
are always objects of interest for the lover of nature. Off 
shore the water deepens quickly, and mariners, when once 
they have cleared the shoals at either inlet, may confidently 
run down the beach within half a mile of the breakers. Four- 
teen miles south of St. John's Light are the sources of Guano 
Hiver, in Diego Plains, a short distance inland from the 
beach. This stream flows into Tolomato or North River, a 
tributary of St. Augustine Inlet. It follows the beach all 
the way at a distance of one-quarter of a mile until it joins 
the Tolomato, when the distance is one to two miles. Its 
headwaters may be approximately located from the beach 
or from a vessel by noting the greater distance of the woods 
from the coast. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 175 

31. Saint Anastasia, 

familiarly called Anastasia Island, is the natural breakwater 
of St. Augustine. It is nearly fourteen miles long, and at- 
the widest part, not far from the inlet, is nearly two miles 
across. Four miles farther south it narrows to a mere strip 
of scrub-covered beach. For the most part the island is 
covered with a dense growth, into which few explorers will 
wish to penetrate after five or ten minutes of faithful efltbrt. 
With the aid of good dogs or a good guide it is still possible 
to find deer on the island, but only in certain places known 
to the initiated. 

The Spaniards found it necessary at an early date to main- 
tain a lookout on the island. At that time nearly all navi- 
gators — friends and foes — approached from the southward, 
and from the town such sails could not be seen until close 
at hand. The first structures were of tall tree-trunks, with 
a " crow's-nest " or platform at top. Such an one betrayed 
the existence of the town to Sir Francis Drake, in 1586 (see 
■p. 138). Subsequently a coquina tower was erected, but 
still with the original idea of a lookout, or perhaps a com- 
bined watch-tower and blockhouse, for the wily Seminole 
was not long in discovering lonely vedettes in exposed posi- 
tions. A gun was mounted there after a time, and flag sig- 
nals were made by an established code, whereby the city was 
notified of friend or foe. It was not until the United States 
came into possession that a regular lighthouse was estab- 
lished. The old Spanish tower was rebuilt and utilized for 
the purpose, and the lantern was first lighted in 1823. This 
tower stood a short distance northeast of the present light, 
and was originally half a mile from the beach. The sea 
gradually encroached, however, and in June, 1880, a violent 
gale undermined the walls, and the ruins still cover the rocky 
point south of the railroad station. Here visitors usually 
make their first acquaintance with coquina in its natural 
form. 

The present light tower, ofiicially known as St. Augustine 
Light, stands in latitude 29° 53' 7" N., longitude 81° 17' 
12" W. The nearest light to the northward is at the mouth 



176 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

of St. John's River, 30 miles ; the nearest to the southward 
is at Mosquito Inlet, 60 miles. The light is of the first 
order, and shows a fixed white light, varied bj a white flash 
every three minutes. It is visible at sea 19 nautical miles. 
The base of the tower is 15 feet above the sea-level, and 
the centre of the lantern is 150 feet above the base. The 
tower is accessible to visitors at all times, except when some 
unusual duty prevents the keepers from attending. The 
view from the gallery is the best that can be obtained of the 
inlet and the adjacent coasts. 

The peculiar painting of the tower in spiral bands is 
adopted so that it can be readily distinguished from any 
other landmark on the coast — an important feature in light- 
house construction, since a momentary sight is often all that 
can be obtained in thick weather. 

The seaward shore of the island is known as the South 
Beach. At the railroad station it is somewhat steeper than 
most Florida beaches, but beyond the site of the old light- 
house it becomes hard enough for riding and driving. 

Tlie coquina quarries are one mile and a half south- 
east from the lighthouse. They may be reached by a fairly 
good path (twenty-five minutes), either by following the 
beach to the rocky point and then striking inland, or by a 
path from the lighthouse, or by a path from Quarry Greek, 
which falls into Matanzas Kiver three-quarters of a mile 
below the Plaza in St. Augustine. The last-mentioned trip 
makes a pleasant excursion from the city by boat, including 
a walk of about two miles going and returning. The quarries 
are interesting as showing the stratifications of the coquina 
(Spanish for shell-fish). The small shells are the accu- 
mulations of ages. Acted upon by water they become par- 
tially dissolved, and then, drying, are firmly cemented to- 
gether in a solid mass. The loose shells are found in vast 
quantities on some of the neighboring beaches. 

The seaward coast of Anastasia Island offers no obstacles 
to navigation after clearing the shoals at either end. The 
three fathom curve is but half a mile from the beach, and 
shallow boats are in safe depth just outside the breakers. 
About three miles north of Matanzas Inlet, and two miles 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 177 

off shore, the mariner is sometimes startled by the sight of 
breakers under his bow where no danger is indicated on the 
chart. One who is familiar with the phenomenon, however, 
may calmly steer directly over the apparent obstacle, for there 
are twenty-one fathoms of water in the midst of the breakers, 
and nine fathoms all around it. The disturbance is caused 
by a boiling spring, such as occur frequently on the main- 
land of Florida. When directly over or to leeward of the 
breakers the odor of sulphuretted hydrogen may be per- 
ceived, suggesting the same source as the artesian wells 
common on the main land. The volume of water varies 
from time to time, and of course the disturbance at the 
surface of the sea is more apparent at low tide than at high 
tide. Sometimes it is not visible at all. The exact bearing 
of the spring from Matanzas Inlet is N. by E. i E., distant 
3i miles. It may be readily found in calm weather with 
the aid of a pocket compass. 

St. Augustine Inlet is three-eighths of a mile wide. On the 
north is North Point, on the south is Black Point, the north- 
ern extremity of Anastasia Island. Outside the inlet, shift- 
ing shoals make out a mile and a half, and the bar is very 
variable. Generally ten feet may be carried through the 
South Channel, which is the deeper of the two. Sharpies of 
any size can pass in or out at any time of tide, the mean rise 
and fall of which is 3 ft. 6 in. to 4 ffc. 9 in., greatly influenced, 
however, by the direction of the wind. 

The main channel runs close along the outer beach of 
Anastasia Island, with a swift current at the ebb and flow of 
tide. Inside, the inlet divides into Tolomato and Matanzas 
Eivers, the former finding its source, as has been stated, four- 
teen miles up the beach. Sail-boats may ascend the Tolo- 
mato about eight miles, and row-boats still farther. 

Bird Island. To the south of the inlet, half a mile off 
shore, is Bird Island, a sand bar of recent formation, which 
appears to be increasing in extent and height from year to 
year. It was formerly a great resort for wild-fowl, but the 
free use of modern breech-loading fire-arms has frightened 
most of them to less frequented shores. Bird Island is often 
visited in fair weather -for the sake of the sea-shells that are 



178 SAINT AUGUST [NE. 

thrown up in great variety by every easterly blow. With a 
fair wind the run may be made in an hour from St. Augustine. 
North Beach. Opposite Anastasia Island is North Beach. 
The point of laud is two miles (half an hour) from the 
Plaza. Launches and sail-boats make frequent trips, fare 
25c. The outer beach is rich in sea-shells, strewn with 
wreckage, and offers a tempting surface for walking or riding 
as far as the eye can reach. The North Beach Railroad runs 
frequent trains from the Union Station, crossing Tolomato 
River on a bridge, and landing passengers within a few steps 
of the beach. 



33. Matanzas River and Inlet, 

separating Anastasia Island from the mainland, is thirteen 
miles long to Matanzas Inlet, and has an average width of 
one-eighth to one-quarter of a mile. There is only three 
feet of water at the "divide" at low tide, and six feet is 
about the limit of draught that can be taken through at av- 
erage high water. The rest of the channel is deep, though 
narrow. A pleasant excursion is down this stream to Matan- 
zas Inlet and return. It is practically an all-day trip, though, 
with a favoring wind or in a launch, the round trip may be 
made in five hours with time for a short stop at the inlet. 
One mile south of the Plaza is the mouth of Quarry Creek 
(see p. 154). The portion of Anastasia Island south of this 
is known as Fish's Island, though really not separated from 
Anastasia. This tract is the old Fish estate. The original 
owner, Jesse Fish, came from Flatbush, N. Y., prior to 1763, 
during the first Spanish period, and his descendants still 
own the place. This estate includes the most valuable part 
of the island, and its orange groves were once among the 
finest in the State. Mr. Fish made many improvements, 
and his plantation was celebrated during the period of 
British supremacy. The old planter died and was buried on 
his own acres, and his tomb is shown almost hidden by sur- 
rounding orange -trees. 

Four miles farther south, on the mainland, is Moultrie, 
the site of Buena Vista, another famous old plantation, the 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 179 

property, in British times, of Lieutenant-Governor John 
Moultrie, who was an active loyalist, while his brother, Will- 
iam Moultrie, of Charleston, S. C, was so prominent a 
rebel that the British brought him to St. Augustine as a pris- 
oner. No doubt the brothers had memorable meetings 
during the period of confinement. Buena Vista was fortified 
in the early days, and later a regular fort was built, which 
was occupied as one of the outposts of St. Augustine. 
Here, in 1823, was executed the treaty of Fort Moultrie, be- 
tween the Government of the United States and the Semi- 
nole Indians. Alleged infractions of this treaty were among 
the causes of the Seminole War (1835-42). 

Near Matanzas Inlet, on an island, are the picturesque 
ruins of an old Spanish fort, of unknown date. Here the 
Spaniards first and the English afterward kept a small gar- 
rison to prevent the surprise of St. Augustine from this 
direction. 

On these shores, more than three centuries ago, was 
enacted one of the darkest tragedies of Floridian history. 
In 1564 a colony of French Huguenots under Bene de 
Laudonniere fortified themselves on the St. John's Biver. 
In August of the following year Pedro Menendez d'Aviles 
with a strong Spanish force established himself at St. Augus- 
tine (see p. 135), having orders from his king to make war 
against the French. Almost simultaneously reinforcements 
for Laudonniere had arrived in a French fleet under Jean 
Ribaut (see p. 120), who at once assumed the offensive. 
On September 10th he appeared off St. Augustine with a 
powerful armament, but a protracted storm compelled him 
to put to sea and the whole squadron was wrecked in the 
neighborhood of Canaveral. 

Giving thanks to Heaven for this signal interposition, 
though he was at the time unaware of the completeness of 
the French disaster, Menendez marched to Fort Caroline, 
where he surprised and slew most of the garrison (see page 
123). Beturning at once to St. Augustine he soon heard of 
the shipwrecked Frenchmen on the coast to the southward. 
Marching to Matanzas Inlet he bivouacked within sight of 
the French camp-fires and awaited the dawn. The ship- 



180 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

wrecked Frenclimen, ignorant of the fate of Fort Caroline, 
were cautiously making their way thither. Menendez had 
but about sixty men with him, while the French numbered 
from 140 to 200, authorities differ. A parley followed, and 
a party of French officers crossed over in a small boat and 
told Menendez their story of recent shipwreck and present 
starvation, asking for treatment as prisoners of war. 

•' Are you Catholics ? " asked Menendez. 

" We are Lutherans," was the reply, given doubtless with 
sinking hearts. 

"Gentlemen," said Menendez, "your fort is taken, and 
all in it are put to the sword." And no assurance of clemency 
would he give, save that, if the French surrendered, he 
would, to quote his own report, " do with them as the Lord 
should order." After further consultation, the French de- 
cided that surrender was their only hope, and, having de- 
livered up their arms, they were brought over in small 
parties. * As they landed, each detachment was marched out 
of sight behind the sand dunes, where their hands were 
securely tied. It was late in the afternoon before the whole 
band, disarmed and helpless, stood before their relentless 
captor, ready for the march. At this point Mendoza, the 
priest, put in a plea for the lives of Catholics, and twelve 
Breton sailors professing that faith were released, with four 
artisans of whom the Spaniards were in great need. These 
were sent to St. Augustine by boat, while the rest, with 
gloomy premonitions of their fate, and guarded by the Span- 
ish men-at-arms, followed Menendez, who, with a cane in his 
hand, walked in advance. As the sun sank he halted in a se- 
cluded spot among the sand dunes, and drew a line on the 
ground with his cane. Darkness was falling when the 
l^risoners came up, and, again to cite the words of Menendez' 
Carta, " I had their hands tied behind their backs, and 
themselves put to the sword. It appeared to me that, by 
thus chastising them, God our Lord and your Majesty were 
served ; whereby in future this evil sect will leave us more 
free to plant the gospel in these parts." 

The precise locality of this savage deed has never been 
known, and only by accident can it be discovered. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 181 

But Menendez had Dot yet finished his work. He sus- 
pected that other ships had been wrecked farther down the 
coast, and while their crews were at large he could not feel 
secure, since his own forces were scattered, some at sea, 
some at Fort Caroline, and only about one hundred and fifty 
men at hand for service. 

The next day Indians brought news of another detachment 
of Frenchmen at Matanzas, and midnight found the fierce 
Spaniards again awaiting their prey. 

At daybreak Eibaut and his men — for the commander-in- 
chief was with this detachment — were seen making prepara- 
tions to cross the river on a raft. On discovering the Span- 
iards the French drums beat and the trumpets sounded, but 
Menendez told his men to cook their breakfast uncon- 
cernedly. After some preliminaries Eibaut, with eight 
gentlemen, crossed over in a canoe and were courteously re- 
ceived by Menendez, who refreshed them with food and 
wine. Then he led the French commander to where the 
bodies of his late comrades lay among the sand hills. Nego- 
tiations followed, lasting until the next day, and Eibaut was 
led to believe that he had effected an arrangement whereby 
the lives of himself and his men should be spared. The 
French, however, some three hundred and fifty in number, 
were not all of a like mind, and in the end only one hundred 
and fifty surrendered. The remaining two hundred marched 
southward, preferring to face the wilderness rather than 
trust the Spaniard. In the morning Eibaut reported the 
result, and the canoe began its long task of ferrying over the 
prisoners. 

Before the first boat load arrived, however, Eibaut was led 
behind a sand hill and his hands were tied ! The act re- 
vealed the intention of the Spaniard. At length all were 
brought over — 70 says Menendez, 150 says Solis. 

Then came the crucial question, " Are you Catholics or 
Lutherans ? and is there anyone among you who will go to 
confession ? " 

"I and all here are of the Eeformed Faith," answered 
Eibaut, and then he recited a Psalm. "We are of earth," 
he continued, according to the Spanish narrator (Solis), 



182 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

•'and to earth we must return ; twenty years more or less 
can matter little." Then turning to Menendez he said he 
was ready, and the scene of two days before was repeated on 
a larger scale. 

" I saved the lives," says Menendez in his Carta, " of two 
young gentlemen about eighteen years of age, as well as of 
three others, the fifer (see p. 139), the drummer, and the tium- 
l^eter, and I caused Jean Eibaut with all the rest to be put to 
the sword, judging this to be expedient for the service of God 
our Lord and of your Majesty." The foregoing account of 
these massacres is from the SjDanish authorities, as cited by 
Parkman in his " Huguenots in Florida." The accounts of 
the few French survivors coincide in all essential particulars. 

For an account of the signal vengeance subsequently 
visited upon the Spaniards by Domenique de Gourgues, a 
French Huguenot, see p. 120. 

Matanzas Inlet has only about six feet of water at high 
tide and in easterly weather the sea often breaks entirely 
across the entrance. It is, however, practicable for sail- 
boats and sharpies. Matanzas River extends eight or ten 
miles south of the Inlet, finding its source in Graham's 
Swamp. Fellicer's Creek joins it near the Inlet. Sportsmen 
sometimes find good shooting along these streams, which may 
be ascended in canoes or very light boats far up toward their 
source. Care should be taken not to be left by the tide, as a 
night spent in the swamps is not an agreeable experience. 



34. St. Augustine to Jacksonville (see p. 110). 

35. St. Augustine to Palatka. 
By J., T. & K. W. Ey. Thirty miles (1 hour 40 minutes). 
The general course of the route is southwest. Crossing the 
prairies to the west of Matanzas River the Tocoi branch di- 
verges to the right and enters a long stretch of piney woods, 
gradually rising and interspersed with occasional hammocks. 
Between Holy Branch and Merrifield we cross Deep Creek 
and shortly afterward approach the richer lands bordering 
St. John's River. At East Palatka Junction change cars, if 
bound for Halifax River, otherwise the train crosses St. 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 183 

John's River to the principal station near the steamboat 
wharf in Palatka (p. 188). Consult local time table. 
About six hours can be spent in Palatka if it is desired to re- 
turn the same day to St. Augustine. Visit Hart's orange 
grove, drive through the suburbs north and south of Palatka. 



40. Jacksonville to Palatka. 

By J., T, & K. W. Ey., 56 miles (2 hours 5 minutes), for stations and dis- 
tances, see pages 17, 25, 82. By St. John's Kiver steamboats, 75 miles (about 6 
hours), for landings and distances, see page 186. 

By Rail to Palatka. The general course of the line is nearly 
north and south, following to some extent the curves of the 
St. John's Eiver, and never more than three or four miles 
from its western bank. The stream, however, is rarely in 
sight, owing to the almost continuous belt of pine forest 
(see map of Duval County, page 24). Shortly after leaving 
the station at Jacksonville the line curves to the southward, 
passing through a level country, with occasional villages 
and .orange groves. Three miles beyond Edgewood we 
cross McGirt's Creek on a trestle, and if the day be warm 
and the traveller in luck he may here catch his first glimpse 
of the Florida alligator. Two miles south of Reed's the 
train passes into Clay County (see page 14). Just beyond 
Black Creek Station is the stream from which it takes its 
name, navigable to Middleburg, six miles west, where it 
divides into two main branches, and these again into nu- 
merous small ones, draining nearly the whole of Clay County, 
and affording access by small boats to a wild and beautiful 
lake region in the southwestern part of the county. 

For Green Cove Springs see page 187. At Melrose 
Crossing, just south of Green Cove Springs, is the Western 
Railroad of Florida to Belmore, fifteen miles southwest. 
Shortly after leaving West Tocoi, the line passes into Put- 
nam County (see page 80 for map, stations, and distances). 
The large stream crossed two miles beyond Teasdale is 
Rice's Creek, which rises among the lakes of the north- 
western part of the county. This stream is navigable for 



1S4 SAINT AUGUSTINE. 

launches and small boats, and is one of the favorite excur- 
sions for visitors at Palatka. 



41. Jacksonville to Palatka by River. 

This part of the St. John's River is in effect almost a con- 
tinuous lake, often several miles wide, and again narrowing 
to less than a mile. As a rule, the banks are somewhat 
monotonous, though there is always more or less of interest 
in the changing vegetation along the shores and in the var- 
ied forms of life almost always to be seen in air or water. 
Shooting is very properly prohibited on all passenger steam- 
ers. Formerly it was carried to such excess that the river 
trip was often a continuous fusillade. Several accidents, 
one of which resulted fatally, at last compelled a reform of 
the abuse. 

Just above the railroad drawbridge at Jacksonville the 
river bends abruptly to the southward, between Grassy 
Point on the east and Lancaster Point on the west. The 
cluster of three piles, painted red, marks the lower end of 
Middle Ground Shoal. To the eastward are the wooded 
bluffs of Villa Alexandria, one of the finest private estates in 
the neighborhood of Jacksonville. 

A triangular red beacon bearing a red light at night marks 
the upper end of the Middle Ground Shoal. On the east 
bank, two miles above Grassy Point, is Phillip's Point, with a 
steamboat landing. Nearly opposite, on the west bank, is the 
mouth of McGirt's Creek, and just above it Sadler's Point. 
Three and a half miles farther south is Piney Point, marked 
by tall pines showing above the surrounding trees. Just 
above Piney Point, on the same side of the river, is the set- 
tlement and landing of Black Point, and nearly opposite is 
the mouth of Goodsby's Creek. The next landing and set- 
tlement south of Black Point is Mulberry Grove, and across 
the river, nearly opposite, is Beauclerc Bluff, a conspicuous, 
heavily wooded promontory, off which stands a black beacon 
(No. 21). 

Two miles above this is Mandarin Point, and on the same 
side are the town and landing of Mandarin, formerly the 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 185 

residence of Mrs. Harriet Beeclier Stowe. A little above 
Mandarin a black and red buoy marks the wreck of the 
steamer Maple Leaf, and nearly opposite, just north of the 
entrance to Doctor's Lake is Orange Park, with a long wharf 
reaching out to the channel. 

The next reach in the river is from Mandarin on the east to 
Magnolia Point on the west bank (six and one-half miles) aver- 
aging one and one-half to two miles in width, Julington and 
Cunningham's Creeks enter on the east bank. Four miles 
farther south on the same side is New Switzerland Point, 
heavily wooded and identified by a single tree standing out 
beyond the rest. Opposite, on the west bank, is Hibernia, 
above which, one mile and three-quarters, is the mouth of 
Black Creek (navigable to Middleburg, seme eight miles in 
the interior) and Magnolia Point a high bluff bank with 
heavy woods. On the east bank, nearly opposite, is Pope 
Point, with Eemington Park and a steamboat landing. 

Turning Magnolia Point a reach of six miles opens south- 
east to Six Mile Point. On the west bank, two and three- 
quarter miles distant, are the hotels and many buildings of 
Green Cove Springs (see page 187). Above this landing, 
one mile and three-quarters, is red beacon No. 38, marking 
Old Field Point on tha west and San Patricio Point on the 
east bank. South of the last named point a deep bight 
makes in, called Hogarth's Bay, into which empties Six 
Mile Creek. Beyond this the river narrows to a mile as far 
as Picolata Point, and the town of Picolata on the east bank. 
At this place, and at a point on the opposite side of the 
river, farts were maintained during the period of Spanish 
rule. They were successfully defended against the English 
under Oglethorpe in December, 1739, but were taken in 
January following as preliminary to the siege of St. Augus- 
tine (see page 142). The remains of the earthworks can 
still be traced, but they are not easily found by a stranger. 

From Picolata Point the river is nearly straight for ten 
miles to Federal Point on the east bank. It varies in width 
from three-quarters of a mile to two and one-half miles. 
Three miles south of Picolata are Orange Point, Tocoi Creek, 
and Tocoi, in the order named. The town is the terminus 



186 



SAINT AUGUSTINE. 



of the St. John's Eailway, 18 miles to St. Augustine. Ea- 
cey's Point is three miles above Tocoi, on the same side of 
the river. Nearly opposite, entering from the westward, is 
Cedar Creek, and above this on the west bank is Nine Mile 
Point, off which stands red beacon No. 44. One mile far- 
ther south is Palmetto Bluff. Federal Point on the east bank 
may be identified by black buoy 35, which is placed a little to 
the north of the landing. 

From Federal Point to Dancy's Point, south by west three 
and one-half miles, the river is about a mile wide. Opposite 
the town of Orange Mills is an extensive flat island, or marsh, 
with a channel on either side. On the west bank are Bo- 
dine's Point and Whetstone Point, in the order named. Off 
the latter is a cluster of three piles, with a red light set at 
night. Another stretch of three and three-quarter miles 
west southwest brings us up with Forrester's Point on the 
east bank and the mouth of Eice's Creek opposite, where, 
with a sharp sweep to south by east, Palatka comes in sight 
with its railroad bridge three miles distant. (For Palatka and 
vicinity, see p. 188.) 

This point is considered the head of navigation for sailing 
vessels, as the river becomes so narrow and crooked in its 
upper reaches that only steamboats can navigate it to advan- 
tage. It is, however, the most interesting to tourists, owing 
to the nearness of the banks and the increasingly tropical 
character of the vegetation. 

River landings and distances between Jacksonville and 
Palatka are as follows ; those on the east bank are marked E, 
those on the west W : 



Mtles. 

St. Nicholas, E 2 

Riverside, W 3 

Black Point, W 10 

Mulberry Grove, W 12 

Mandarin, E 15 

Orange Park, W 15 

Fruit Cove, E 19 

Hibernia, W 23 

New Switzerland, E 23 

Remington Park, E 25 

Magnolia, W . 28 

Green Cove Springs, W 30 



Miles. 

Orange Dale, E 34 

Hogarth's Landing, E 38 

Picolata, E 44 

Tocoi, E 46 

Federal Point, E 58 

Orange Mills, E 63 

Cook's Landing, E 65 

Dancy's Wharf, E 66 

Russell's Point, E 67 

Whetstone, W 68 

Russell's Landing, E 69 

Palatka, W T5 



For landings, etc., above Palatka, see Route 51. 



GREEN COVE SPRINGS. 187 

42. Oreen Cove Springs, Clay County. 

Population, 1,200. Twenty-nine miles from Jacksonville, twenty-seven miles 
from Palatka. 

Hotels. — Clare, $3 to $4 a day. — Clarendon, $4 a day. — Morganza, $1.50 to $2 
a day. — St. Clair, |3 to %i:.—The Pines, $3 a day. Also several smaller hotels 
and boarding-houses. 

Railroads and Steamboats. — Several trains north and south daily by J., T. 
& K. W. Ry. All the St. John's River steamboats touch at this landing. 

This town lias been for many years a place of considerable 
resort, owing to its fine sulphur springs, and the natural ad- 
vantages of its situation. Even as seen from the windows 
of a passing train its attractions are evident, for considerable 
labor has been expended in laying out streets, fencing off 
parks with massive pine logs, and removing evidences of 
recent clearings. 

A short walk or ride from the station brings the visitor to 
Magnolia Avenue, the business street of the place. A short 
distance farther is the great spring, which discharges three 
thousand gallons of water every minute, at a temperature of 
78^ F., the year round. The wonderful purity of the water, its 
green, mysterious depths, reflections and colors are a source 
of never-ending pleasure. The water is slightly impregnated 
with sulphur, but loses it by evaporation after a short ex- 
posure to the air. Excellent bathing arrangements have 
been provided, and comfortable rustic seats are found at 
almost every turn. Borden Park, including about five acres, 
lies along the river on high ground with its native growth of 
magnolia, live oak, and palmetto, the rubbish only having 
been cleared away. It is private property, but open to the 
public, though a quaint inscription posted at the entrance 
may properly prove discouraging to vandals. Much ingenu- 
ity has been displayed in the adaptation of natural tree- 
trunks for fences, gate-posts, tree-seats, and the like. On 
the river bank, and projecting out over the water, is a tree 
said to have been used as a lookout by the Seminoles during 
their wars, for this was one of their permanent camps. Be- 
yond the park a fascinating foot-path extends far along the 
river side and across Governor's Creek to Magnolia, one of 
the pleasantest resorts on the St. John's. 

Green Cove Springs contains many charming winter resi- 



188 GREEN COVE SPRINGS— PALATKA. 

dences, some of tliem surrounded with carefully tended gar- 
dens full of horticultural rarities, and most attractive to vis- 
itors from a colder climate. 

The town itself contains churches of all the leading de- 
nominations, schools, stores, livery stables, tramways. Ex- 
cursions may be made by boat up the river as far as Palatka, 
or down as far as Jacksonville, returning by boat or rail the 
same day, and on both sides of the river there are many 
points of interest easily within reach. (See Eoute 42.) 



43. Palatka^ Putnam County (C.H.). 

Population, 6,000.— Lat. 29° 38^ N.— Long. 81° 38' W. 

Hotels. — Arlington, $2. — Canova, $1,50. — Winthrop, $3. — Kean Building, 
Rooms 50c. — Putnam House, $4. — Saratoga, $3. — West End. House, $2; $8 to 
$10 by week. 

Eailkoads, Steamboats, etc. — The J., T. & K. W. system (to Jacksonville, 
St. Augustine, Daytona, Gainesville, Tampa, Punta Gorda, etc.). Stations for 
points north and south, 1 mile west from river ; station for points on sea- 
coast, etc., near steamboat wharf and railroad bridge. Through cars are run 
around the city, making connections without change (see local time tables). 

Steatrihoat^. — All the St. John's River steamboats land at the wharf near the 
raUroad bridge. Oeklawaha steamboats land at the same wharf. 

Carriage fare from railways and steamboats, 25c. to any part of the city ; 
luggage, 25c. per piece. 

Livery. — Saddle-horses, $1.50 a day if reasonably used. Double teams, $2 an 
hour, $5 a day. 

Eowboats, 25c. an hour, $1.50 to $2 a day. Sail-boats 50c. an hour, $3 a day. 
Steam launches can be chartered for $15 to $25 a day, according to size of 
party and length of intended trip. 

Guidiis for hunting or fishing may be engaged at the hotels or boat landings at 
$2.50 to $3 a day. 

Tram-cars at 10 minute intervals run between the railroad stations, fare 5c. 

History. 

Palatka was settled in 1821, by James Marver and two 
companions named Hine and Woodruff. They secured a 
Spanish grant and established a trading x)ost for traffic with 
the Indians. Marver's store stood near the foot of Main 
Street, and no doubt the large live oaks on the bluff close at 
hand witnessed many a sharp bargain that brought gold 
into the white man's pocket. He was, however, a great 
favorite with his savage patrons, and had no difficulties with 
them during his stay. 

At some date not precisely fixed Dr. N. Brush, of New 
York, purchased MaiTer's lands and interests and continued 



PALATKA. ' 189 

the business, his two nephews, Thomas and William Brush, 
being his agents. The post was sacked and burned promptly 
on the outbreak of the Seminole War in 1835, and the young 
men barely escaped with their lives. 

A military post was soon afterward established here, and 
in 184:0 it was constituted a regular ordnance depot, with the 
barracks and shops necessary for a considerable garrison 
and for the repair of their arms and equipments. Eight 
large log block-houses were constructed along the line of 
Water Street, one of them with a watch-tower eighty feet 
high. The commanding officer's head-quarters were where the 
late Colonel Devall's house now stands. Cavalry stables for 
four hundred horses occupied the site of the Putnam 
House and a large hospital was erected on the Hart property. 
Among the officers quartered here were Scott, Taylor, 
Worth, and Gaines, who won distinction and rank in the sec- 
ond war with Great Britain and in the early Indian war. 
Still younger were lieutenants W. T. Sherman, and Silas 
Casey, who saw their first field service in Florida and rose to 
the highest rank during the Civil War. 

After the subjugation of the Indians and the discontinuance 
of the military post, Palatka became the shipping point for 
the produce of the neighboring country. Prior to the com- 
pletion of the railroad in 1886 it was the most southerly 
landing of any importance on the river, and soon became a 
favorite resort for invalids who sought a warmer climate and 
dreaded the cold easterly winds of the coast. By 1850 it 
was a delightful place of residence, with many handsome 
houses, some of which are still the finest in town. It was 
fairly embosomed in orange trees, and, being an outpost of 
civilization on the borders of an almost unbroken wilderness, 
offered great attractions to sportsmen. Its commercial pros- 
perity did not begin until after the Civil War, when it be- 
came the distributing centre for a wide tract of rich country, 
and with the advent of the railroad in 1886 became the busy 
and prosperous place that now exists. It suffered the fate 
of nearly all Florida towns, and was nearly destroyed by 
fire. Like its sisters, however, it rallied pluckily from the 
disaster and was rebuilt on a more substantial basis. It may 



190 PALATKA. 

now be reached in thirty-six hours from New York and 
will, no doubt, long maintain its position as the most impor- 
tant town on the river above Jacksonville. 

The visitor will find pleasant walks in either direction, 
north or south, along the river bank. The roads in the vi- 
cinity are rather sandy for driving, but equestrians may ride 
in almost any direction with the certainty of a pleasant ex- 
perience. The rivers and the neighboring lakes afford a great 
variety of delightful trips. (See Eoutes 42 to 54.) 

Hart's Orange Grove, one of the oldest and most famous 
groves in the State, is on the opposite side of the river, about 
three miles from the wharves. It is easily reached by boat 
from the foot of Main Street. This grove was budded on 
wild stock about 1832, was badly damaged by the severe 
frost of 1835, and began bearing about 1845. It covers some 
70 acres of land, contains about 500 trees, and yields about 
12,000 boxes of oranges annually. 



44. Xiake George. 

This fine lake, about sixteen miles long and eight miles 
wide, lies at the junction of four of the most fertile and 
prosperous counties of Florida, namely, Putnam, Lake, Vo- 
lusia, and Marion. Its outlet is about thirty-eight miles 
south of Palatka, and it may be reached either by boat or 
rail, the excursion affording a pleasant all day trip. The 
regular St. John's Eiver steamboats may be taken to any of 
the Lake George landings, or the trip may be extended to 
Volusia, where the St. John's & Lake Eustis Eailway touches 
the river, and train may be taken for Eustis, Leesburg, and 
the Lake region. The time to Volusia by boat is about four 
hours. Steam launches may be hired at Palatka, with which 
the round of the lake may be comfortably made in a day at 
an expense of $15 to $25. The trip may be varied by stop- 
ping at Seville Landing, about half way up the lake. Con- 
veyances may be secured by telegraphing to the hotel at 
Seville. The distance from the landing to the railroad is 
about four miles. 



PALATKA. 191 

45. The Pruitland Peninsula. 

This name is given to a tract of fine land lying between 
the St. John's Eiver and Lake George on the west, and 
Crescent Lake and its outlet, Dunn's Creek, on the east. It 
is about twenty miles long and from six to ten miles wide 
from lake to river. This territory was a favorite with the Ind- 
ian tribes of prehistoric times, whose agricultural instincts 
led them to select the best lands for their field crops. 
One of the oldest settlements on the St. John's Eiver was 
formed under English rule at Mount Koyal, in the latter part 
of the last century. Considerable progress was made in Eu- 
ropean methods of cultivation, but all lands were abandoned 
with the return of the Spaniards, and it was not until after 
the Seminole War that permanent white settlements were 
resumed. Now the whole peninsula is thickly dotted with 
farms and orange groves, and is one of the most thriving 
communities of Middle Florida. The peninsula consists of 
high pine land, interspersed with hammock, and admirably 
adapted for all kinds of agriculture. The large lakes to the 
eastward and westward, with the smaller bodies of water 
scattered through the interior, equalize the temperature to 
an unusual degree. 

Throughout the peninsula there are pleasant rides and 
drives, and conveyances or saddle-horses may be engaged at 
almost any of the principal river or lake landings. 



46. Crescent Lake. 

Dunn's Creek, the outlet of Crescent Lake, falls into the 
St. John's about six miles south of Palatka. It is a deep, 
crooked, picturesque stream, eight miles long, and traversed 
daily by steamboats. The trip may be varied by passing 
through Murphy's Creek, a branch of the main outlet. The 
lake is sixteen miles long and three miles wide, fed at its 
upper end by Haw Creek, which forms the boundary be- 
tween St. John's and Volusia Counties, and sends its various 



192 PALATKA— SEVILLE. 

brandies well over toward the sea -coast near tlie head of 
Halifax Eiver. 

Crescent City, the principal town on the lake, is hand- 
somely laid out on the western shore, on high land, and with 
Lake Stella immediately to the westward of the town. The 
level of this lake is said to be forty feet higher than that of 
Crescent Lake. There is a road and regular conveyance from 
Crescent City to the railroad, but the lake steamers from 
Palatka afford the easier and pleasanter means of access. 



47. Seville, Volusia County. 

Population, 400. 

Hotels. — The Seville, $3.50 a day ; special rates by week or month. — The 
Grand View. — The Pavilion. 

Seville, with its tasteful and characteristic log- built sta- 
tion, and its palm- and orange-lined main street, at once at- 
tracts the eye of the Northern traveller, if only by a casual 
glance from the car window. The town is, in fact, one of 
the most attractive in Florida, owing to judicious and liberal 
outlay of money in providing a complete system of sewerage, 
and a water-supply drawn from a neighboring lake. The 
sewage is received in tanks, where the solids are precipitated 
by chemical action, and the liquids are carried off through 
subsoil pipes to the neighboring fields. The works were 
planned by Mr. J. J. Powers, late Sanitary Engineer of Brook- 
lyn, N. Y., and are identical in plan of construction with 
those that solved the very perplexing problem of sewerage 
at Coney Island, N. Y. The town site is at the southern 
end of the Fruitland Peninsula, in the midst of the high 
pine orange belt. Four miles west of the railroad station 
and hotels is Lake George, well known to hunters and fish- 
ermen. The town fronts on Lakes Louise and Beatrice, 
two sheltered lakes of pure water, whose shores afford most 
attractive sites for cottages and permanent residences. In 
the vicinity are nearly all the characteristic varieties of Flor- 
ida land. The hammock bordering the lake is very rich, and 
has for many years been known as especially favorable to the 



SEVlLLE.^ 193 

growth of the wild or Seville orauge, the theory being that 
all the wild orange-trees of Florida are seedlings from fruit 
imported by the Spaniards. The name Seville Grove was 
originally given to a considei'able section of this region com- 
prised in the old Storrs grant, and p>urchased by William 
Kemble Lente, one of the earliest Northern settlers in this 
region. The wild trees were topped and budded, and came 
into bearing in a surprisingly short time. It has since been 
equalled and surpassed by many groves in the vicinity, but 
is still justly regarded as a type of what can be done with 
wild orange- trees in this part of the State. 

Saddle-horses and carriages can be engaged at the hotel 
for drives about this very interesting, prosperous, and well- 
cultivated region. 



50. Palatka to Sanford by Rail. 

J., T, & K. W. Ry., sixty-nine miles (2 hours 50 minutes). For stations and 
distances see pp. 82, 9T. 

The general direction of the railway line is a little east of 
south. Leaving Palatka the train traverses the level sub- 
urbs and, after a few minutes, crosses the St. John's Eiver 
on a long trestle and drawbridge. Here occurs a good op- 
l^ortunity to observe the tangled growth of the low ham- 
mock bordering the river. A range of bluffs, remarkably 
bold and high for this region, will be noticed at this point, 
their sides often covered with orange groves. For twenty 
miles after crossing the river the railroad traverses the 
central ridge of the Fruitland Peninsula (see p. 191). Aj 
times tlie route seems lined with orange groYes for miles on 
both sides, and in the season of fruit and blossoms the pano- 
rama is one not to be forgotten. Many pretty lakes break 
the monotony of grove and forest, most of them deep and 
full of water at all seasons of the year. 

Between Denver and Hammond the boundary line of 
Putnam and Volusia Counties is crossed (see pp. 80, 94). 

At Seville notice the station, a genuine log-cabin adapted 
to the taste and requirements of civilization, the bark and 



194: SEVILLE. 

knots smoothed away, the logs finished in oil, and all the 
rudeness of the frontier skilfullj eliminated. (See, also, 
account of Seville, p. 192.) On both sides of the track are al- 
most continuous orange groves, the trees thriving on soil 
that to all appearance is nothing better than sand. Those 
who are interested in such matters will do well to stop in 
this neighborhood and inspect methods of orange culture, 
and, if it be the proper season, of harvesting, packing, and 
the like. 

At Be Land Junctioii is the crossing of a branch road to 
the St. John's Eiver on the west and to De Land, the 
county seat, on the east (see Route 53). 

At Orange City Junction is the crossing of the Atlantic & 
Western Hailroad, extending to the St. John's Eiver on the 
west, and to New Smyrna on the east (see Eoute 63). 

At Enterprise Junction the train divides, part going eastward 
to Indian Eiver (see Eoute 70), and part continuing to the 
southward and presently crossing the St. John's Eiver just 
below the outlet of Lake Monroe. At this point is Monroe, 
the junction of the Orange Belt Eailway (see p. 49). The 
line now curves to the east, and soon stops in the handsome 
station at San ford. 



51. Palatka to Sanford by River. 

One hundred and twenty miles (about 8 hours by daylight, 12 hours by 

nightj. 

Above the drawbridge at Palatka lies the most interesting 
part of the St. John's Eiver. Here the stream loses its 
lacustrine chanicter and becomes comparatively narrow and 
swift, and so crooked that the distance to Sanford is nearly 
double that by rail. Local time-tables should be con- 
sulted so as to secure a trip one way or the other by day- 
light. The night trip, however, is by no means devoid of 
interest, for the boats carry brilliant headlights which pro- 
duce striking and novel effects along the densely wooded 
shores. A good view of Hart's Orange Grove is obtained in 
passing (see p. 190). The vicinity of Eolleston was early 



SEVILLE. 195 

settled by English jDioneers, but was abandoned when the 
Spaniards resumed control in 1784. 

A little above Westonia is the mouth of Dunns Creek, the 
navigable outlet of Crescent Lake (see p. 191), and at Buffalo 
Bluff is the railroad drawbridge. Nearly opposite Beecher 
is the mouth of the Ocklawalia River. 

Beyond Fort Gates, a military post during the Indian 
wars, is the outlet of Lake George. . The small island to the 
westward is Hog Island ; the larger one is Drayton Island, 
containing 1,870 acres of remarkably productive soil, under- 
}aid with beds of carbonate and phosphate marl. The island 
was settled by R. W. Towle, in 1875, and now has a well-to- 
do poj^ulation of about one hundred and fifty. Orange cult- 
ure is very successful on the island, owing to the protection 
afforded by the surrounding waters, and the inhabitants say 
that even the severe frost of 1886 passed over the island 
without doing any harm. 

On the west shore is the outlet of Lake Kerr, a beautiful, 
irregular body of water, with two towns on its shores. Lake 
George, eighteen miles long, affords an agreeable change 
from the narrow, winding stream, but in a short time the 
southern inlet is reached, and shortly afterward Volusia, the 
site of one of the early Spanish Missions. From De Land 
Landing is a short branch railroad to the county town (see 
p. 198). 

Blue Spring Landing takes its name from a fine spring 
that boils up from unknown depths a few rods from the river 
bank. To visit the spring it is necessary to pass through 
l^rivate grounds, for which permission should be asked. 
From this landing the Atlantic & Western Eailroad (see j). 
97) extends eastward to New Smyrna on the sea-coast. 

A considerable stream joins the St. John's on the west 
side about six miles above Blue Spring. It is the Kissimmee 
River, but has no connection with the large river of that 
name farther south. Passing through the last drawbridge 
on the St. John's, Lake Monroe opens to the eastward with 
the distant buildings of Sanford and Enterprise visible 
among the tall palms on the opposite shores. (For Lake 
Monroe, see i?. 197.) 



196 



SEVILLE— SANFORD. 



River landings are as follows from Palatka to Sanford. 
Distances are given from Jacksonville. E. signifies east 
bank, W. west bank. 



Hart's Orange Grove, B 75 

Eolleston. E 78 

San Mateo. E 79 

Edgewater, E 80 

Bulfalo Bluff, W 87 

Horse Landing, W 96 

Nashua, E 95 

Smith's Landing, E 96 

Welaka, E 100 

Beecher, E 101 

Norwalk, W 103 

Mount Royal, E 105 

Fruitlands, E 105 

Fort Gates, W 106 

Pelham Park, E 112 

Eacemo, E 112 

Georgetown, E 113 

Orange Point, E 113 

Lake George, E 115 

Drayton Island. W 116 

Salt Springs, W 119 

Benella, W 120 

Seville, E 120 



Yellow Blufe, W 121 

Spring Garden, E 122 

Spring Grove, E 126 

Lake View, E . . . 132 

Volusia, E 134 

Astor, W 134 

Manhattan, W 136 

Fort Butler, W 138 

Orange Bluff, E 140 

Bluffton, E 140 

St. Francis, "W 155 

Old Town, W 153 

Crow's Landing, W 159 

Hawkinsville, W 160 

Cabbage Bluff. E 162 

De Land Landins, E 162 

Lake Beresf ord, E 163 

Blue Spring, E 168 

Wekiva, E ... ...184 

Shell Bank, E 163 

Sanford, W 195 

Mellonville, W 196 

Enterprise, E 200 



52. Sanford, Orange County. 

Population, 3,500.— Lat. 28° 50' N.— Long. 81° 17' W. 

Hotels.— iT/ie Sanford House, $3 to $4 a day.— (S'aw Leon Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a 
day. . 

Kaixroads, Steamboats, etc. Jacksonville, Tampa <& Key West Railway, 
north to Jacksonville (see pp. 69, 82, 97), and east to Indian Kiver (see p. 97). 

South Florida Railroad, south to Tampa, Punta Gorda, and the Gulf steam- 
ship lines (see pp. 70, 73, 79). 

Sanford <& Lake Eustis Railway, west to Tavares, Leesburg, etc. (see p. 48). 

Sanford <& Indian River Railway, southeast to Lake Charm (see p. 71). 

The Orange Belt Railway, southwest to Tarpon Springs and the Pinellas 
Peninsula (see pp. 38, 49, 70, 74, 87). 

All these roads use a station in common near the hotels and business streets. 
Restaurant in station. 

Steamboats. — The steamboat wharf is five minutes' walk east of the Sanford 
House. There are daily boats to and from Jacksonville and intermediate land- 
ings. 

Carriage rate from station or landing, 25c. ; luggage, 25c. per piece. 

Livery.— SadAle horses, 75c. to $1 an hour, $2 to $3 a day. Double teams, $5 
a day. 

Guides for hunting and fishing, $5 a day with dogs and outfit. 

Sanford is pleasantly situated on the south shore of Lake 
Monroe, the land rising from the water level in a gentle 
slope sufficient for effectual drainage. The town is named 
after General H. S. Sanford, late United States Minister to 
Belgium. 



SANFORD. 197 

The suiTonnding land was an old Spanish grant, and be- 
longed, in 1870, to General Joseph Finegan, an ex-officer of 
the Confederacy. From him General Sanford purchased the 
entire estate (known as the old Levy grant) of twenty-three 
square miles. At that time there was on the lake shore an 
insignificant hamlet called Mellon ville, after Captain Mellon, 
U.S.A., who was killed here in an engagement with the 
Seminoles. General Sanford's early attempts to introduce 
organized labor, whether white or black, were resisted by 
force of arms, but he soon became strong enough to defy 
the prejudices of the scattered population, and the result is 
apparent in the present prosperity of the place. A large 
number of Swedes were imported with their families, and 
they now form a prosperous part of the community. 

Belair, threje miles south of Sanford, and easily reached by 
rail or carriage road, is one of the largest and most famous 
plantations in the State. It is the property of General San- 
ford, who began operations on a large scale soon after his 
I)urchase of the Levy grant. The grove contains 95 acres 
of oranges and 50 acres of lemons, with a large experimental 
farm, where all kinds of exotics are tested under the best 
j)ossible conditions for ascertaining their adaptability to the 
Florida climate. 

Lake Monroe is nearly circular in shape, six miles long, a 
little more than five miles wide, and with an average depth 
of about twelve feet. Sanford and Enterprise are the only 
two towns on its shores. The fishing for bass and the other 
fresh-water varieties of fish is good in all parts of the lake, 
but of course the fish have their favorite feeding-grounds, 
and until these are ascertained there is little use in fishing. 
The shores of the lake are for the most part wild, and cov- 
ered with a heavy growth of forest and saw palmetto. Deer 
and turkies are found within a few miles of the lake, and 
even along its less frequented borders, but without a guide 
and trained dogs it is nearly impossible to shoot them. Above 
Lake Monroe the river is not regularly navigated, though it 
is practicable for good sized launches. It winds for the 
most part among vast stretches of savannah and saw grass, 
occasionally spreading into large lakes, as Harney, Jessup, 



198 SANFORD— DE LAND. 

Poinsett, Winder, and Washington. It is often a very dif- 
ficult matter to decide which is the true river channel, but 
when found the stream is easily navigable and the upper 
lakes are so near the Indian River at Rockledge and Eau 
Gallie that carries are easily made across the intervening 
hammock. The upper St. John's should not be attempted 
save in a boat that will serve as a sleeping-place at a pinch, 
for there are often long stretches of morass where it is im- 
possible to camp comfortably on shore. 



53. De Land. Volusia County. 

Population, 2,000.— Lat. 29° N.— Long. 81° 14' W. 

B.oTBijS.—Carrollton House, $2.50 to $S.—jParceland Hotel, $2.50 to $3.—Ptit- 
nam House, $2 to $3. 

Kailkoads.— Branch to De Land Junction and Landing on St. John's Kiver, 
five miles west, where connection is made with J., T. & K. W. Ry., and with 
river steamboats. 

Carriage rate from station, 25c. ; luggage, 25c. per piece. 

De Land has good hotels, electric lights, numerous stores, 
churches, schools, and a general air of business prosperity. 
As the seat of government of a large county in the heart of 
the orange region it is the centre of a considerable amount 
of business connected with the growing interests of the 
community. The situation is healthful in the high pine re- 
gion, and forest still surrounds it, save where it has been 
cleared away to make room for orange groves and other im- 
provenients. The town is named after its founder, Mr. H. 
A. De Land. 

In the immediate neighborhood are several interesting 
places, notably the residence and grounds of Mr. John B. 
Stetson, of Philadelphia, where horticulture in its various 
branches is carried to a high degree of perfection. 

The Irondequoit Dairy, within easy walking distance of the 
hotels, is interesting as one of the most successful attempts 
to introduce Jerseys, Holstein, and other high grade cattle 
into this region. 

Lake Helen, six miles southeast, may be reached from De 
Land either by road through the woods or by rail, changing 
at De Land Junction and Orange City. (See next page.) 

De Leon Spring, six miles north, is a pleasant resort for 



DE LAND— LAKE HELEN. 199 

picnic parties. The Spring boils up in such volume that it 
was formerly used to drive a sugar-mill, the ruins of which 
are still to be seen near by. 

Spring Garden, three miles north of De Leon Spring, has 
entered successfully upon silk culture. There are several 
l^rosperous silk-farms in the vicinity, where may be seen the 
curious j)rocesses connected with this industry. 

Dexter Lake and the St. John's River are available for 
boating and fishing excursions. The best hunting grounds 
are to the eastward, in a wide belt of sparsely settled country, 
partly savanna, partly hammock, from five to fifteen miles 
from the railroad. Hunters and guides can be engaged at 
$b a day, or at a stated amount according to the success 
achieved ; so much for a shot at a deer, so much for a turkey, 
or so much for a wildcat, the hunter, of course, not being 
responsible for the marksmanship of the si)ortsman. 

De Land University stands on an elevation Just outside the 
town, commanding a good view of the vicinity. It is de- 
signed to afford facilities for students of both sexes who 
prefer a southern climate during the winter months. There 
are ample buildings, separate dormitories, and a full staff 
of instructors for the different departments. The school 
year of thirty weeks begins in October and ends in May. 



54. Lake Helen. Volusia County. 

Lat. 28° 58' N.— Long. 81° 13' W. 

Hotels.— iTAe Harlan Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a day. — The Granville, $7 to $10 a 
week. 

Eailroads. — The Atlantic & Western Eailroad east to New Smyrna and coast- 
wise steamers, west to J., T. & K. W. Ry. and St. John's River steamers. 

Lake Helen is essentially a resort or sanitarium. Its in- 
habitants are mainly Northerners, who come for the winter, 
preferring the air of the piney woods to that of the sea- 
coast. For such persons the situation is very attractive. 
The land is high, the surface of the lake being about sixty 
feet above the sea level, and the bluff where the hotel stands 
some thirty feet higher. 

The place is named after the daughter of its founder, Mr. 
H. A. De Land. The lake is one of a chain of similar lakes of 



200 LAKE HELEN— DAYTONA. 

small size, but filled with pure water and of great depth. 
Lake Helen, it is said on good authority, has been sounded 
to a depth of more than two hundred feet without finding 
bottom. The fishing is good and the hotel has a large fleet 
of rowboats at the disposal of its guests without extra charge. 
Along the west shore of the lake are a number of handsome 
cottages, v/ith luxuriant flower-gardens containing all kinds 
of tropical and semi-tropical plants that grow and blossom 
in the open air all the year round. The facilities for house- 
keej)ing are exceptionally good, as there is a large vegetable 
garden connected with the hotel, a local meat market, and 
stores that furnish the ordinary supplies required in this 
climate. 



60. Daytoiia, Volusia County. 

- Population, 1,700.— Lat. 29'=' 10' N.— Long. 81° W. 

Hotels.— Ocean House, $2.50 to $3 a diO^Y.— Palmetto Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a day. 

Eailroads and Steamboats.— St. John and Halifax Eiver Railway, to Pa- 
latka. Steamboats to Lagoon landings, Titusville, and Kockledge. 

From Palatka to Daytona is 57 miles (3 hours 25 minutes). 
The general direction of the railroad is southeast, passing 
from Putnam to St. John's County at Yelvington, crossing 
the latter and entering Volusia County a mile south of Bulow 
(see pp. 80, 82, 94). After crossing the bridge at Palatka 
the famous Hart orange grove may be seen to the south of 
the track. Leaving the hammocks and rolling pine lands 
that border the St. John's Kiver, the country becomes low 
and the track runs for miles across the head of a great cy- 
press swamp that extends far down into Volusia County. 
Beyond this the country becomes flat and at length opens 
out into prairies, which give way again to wonderfully rich 
hammock ridges along the coast. The Tomoka River is 
crossed near a station of that name. 

The town of Daytona stretches for two miles along the 
west bank of Halifax Biver, a salt water lagoon about three- 
fourths of a mile wide. It has streets pleasantly shaded 
with live oaks and palmettos, including unusually fine speci- 
mens of both. The hammock ridge on which the town 
stands averages two miles wide and extends for 60 miles 



DAYTONA. 201 

down the coast. It is covered with a dense growth of hard 
wood, inchiding wdld orange-trees, many of which have been 
grafted and brought under cultivation. Among the notable 
groves of the vicinity are the Higby, Blake, Wilder, and 
Handy groves, the last named being a young grove while the 
others are largely grafted on wild stock. To Holli/ Hill, three 
miles north of Daytona, is a good road bordered with palms, 
and, for the greater part of the distance, within sight of the 
water. 

Silver Beach. The peninsula that se^^arates Halifax Eiver 
from the ocean rises to a considerable height opposite Day- 
tona and for some m,iles to the northward. On the landward 
side of this ridge are some of the most charming places in 
Florida. Sheltered from the direct force of the ocean winds, 
the gardens and plantations are remarkably luxuriant and 
produce the more delicate varieties of troj)ical fruits and 
flowers in abundance. There are several jDrivate residences 
at Silver Beach, where a system of subirrigation has been 
introduced with remarkable results, notably in the grounds 
of Mr. Clark Marsh. 

Drives. Many of the roads about Daytona are exception- 
ally good, especially along the shore where shells have been 
available for mixing with the soil. By far the finest drive 
is along the ocean beach in either direction. At low tide an 
expanse of sand several hundred feet wide is laid bare. 
Level and hard as a floor, no finer driveway can be im- 
agined. Bridges cross Halifax Eiver at Daytona and Or- 
mond, so that the route can be conveniently varied. For 
beach drives the time of the tide should always be con- 
sidered, as the sand is very heavy above high water mark. 
Extended excursions up the beach, twenty -six miles to Ma- 
tanzas Inlet (see p. 178), or southward to Mosquito Inlet, 
twelve miles (see p. 207), are quite practicable. At Mosquito 
Inlet there are good hotels, but there is none within easy 
reach at Matanzas, so that a good store of provisions and a 
supply of freshwater should be taken if the longer excursion 
is attemjDted. On the main land there are exceptionally 
good roads southward to and beyond New Smyrna. 



202 ORMOND. 

61. Ormond, Volusia County. 

Six miles north of Daytona (see above). Population, 300. 
Hotel.— TAe Ormond, $4 a day. 

A fine bridge spans Halifax Eiver at this point, and a tram- 
way crosses it extending to the ocean beach at one end and 
to the St. J. & H. E. Eailway at the other. Cars run at half 
hour intervals, connecting with all passenger trains. The 
Ormond Hotel has a large and completely appointed annex 
on the ocean beach, so that guests can choose between the 
magnificent ocean view or the more sheltered outlook across 
the lagoon. The distance between the two houses is nearly 
a mile, but inter-communication is easy by tramway or car- 
riage road. 

Tomoka River is a tributary of the Halifax, following a 
northerly course nearly parallel to it, and navigable for ca- 
noes and small boats for about twelve miles. The Tomokas 
were a powerful Indian tribe during the early years of Span- 
ish occupation. A catechism in their language was prepared 
by the Jesuit missionaries and published about 1613. 

For other excursions in the vicinity of Ormond see Eoute 
60. 

62. Halifax River. 

This lagoon, or tidal river, has a total length of about 
twenty-five miles from its head to Mosquito Inlet. Its gen- 
eral course is parallel to the ocean, from which it is sepa- 
rated by a narrow strip of land, partly hammock and partly 
the ordinary beach growth of saw palmetto. 

For the first six miles north of the inlet the river is 
bordered by marshes, and is from two hundred to four hun- 
dred yards wide, with at least eight feet of water in the 
channel. Thence for fourteen miles it widens to about three- 
quarters of a mile, with a channel depth of three to eight 
feet. Above this it narrows again, and for a distance of four 
miles is known as Halifax Creek. The headwaters consist 
of two branches, Smith's Creek closely following the beach, 
and Bulow's Creek turning more to the westward and rising 
in Graham's Swamp. There are bridges at Daytona and 



ORMOND— NEW SMYRNA. 203 

Ormond, respectively twelve and eighteen miles from the 
inlet. 

Just north of the inlet is a wide stretch of marsh, inter- 
sected by narrow creeks that connect to the westward with 
shallow bodies of water known as Eose, Strickland, and 
Turnbull Bays. 

Steamboats of light draught run regularly through Halifax 
Biver, leaving Daytona in the morning on alternate days, 
touching at Blake, Port Orange, Ponce Park, and other land- 
ings, and continuing down Hillsborough and Indian Eivers 
as far as Eockledge. Eailroad connections at Daytona, New 
Smyrna, and Titusville. 



63. New Smyrna. Volusia County. 

Hotel. — Ocean House, $3 a day. 

Railroad. — The Atlantic and Western (see p. 97). 

Steamboats on Halifax and Hillsborough Eivers. 

New Smyrna is one of the oldest settlements in Florida. 
Shell-mounds and barbaric implements are found, proving 
its early occupation by Indians, and there are numerous 
ancient ruins, probably of Spanish construction, but concern- 
ing which nothing definite is known. 

Authentic history begins in 1767, when a certain Dr. 
Andrew Turnbull, an English gentleman of fortune, entered 
upon the gigantic task of draining the low hammocks back 
of New Smyrna, and making them fit for cultivation. He 
had satisfied himself of the wonderful richness of this tract, 
and preliminary surveys had proved the possibilities of drain- 
age. This was four years after the cession of Florida to 
Great Britain, and the English were fast learning that they 
need not depend on provision ships for the necessaries of 
life. 

' Turnbull procured a grant of sixty thousand acres from 
the Governor on condition that certain improvements should 
be made within a specified time. He then sailed to the 
Mediterranean, and secured permission from the authorities 
to transport to Florida a large number of Greek families. 
For this permit he paid £400. Most of the Greeks were 



20J: NEW SMYRNA. 

from the Peloponnesus. The number was further recruited 
from the Balearic Isles, and in the end some fifteen hundred 
persons, men, women, and children, emigrated under his 
leadership. On his part free transportation, with good pro- 
visions and clothing were guaranteed. If any were dis- 
satisfied at the end of six months they were to be sent home, 
but those who remained and worked for three years were to 
receive fifty acres of land for each family, and twenty-five 
acres for each child. The voyage proved long, and many 
died on the passage, but the survivors began work with good 
courage, built palmetto huts for the approaching winter, and 
planted crops that yielded full returns in early spring. As 
soon as it was certain that the colony was secure against 
hunger, Turnbull j)lauted indigo. In 1772, about three 
thousand acres were under cultivation, and the net value of 
the crop was £3,174. 

Success seemed assured, but for some reason the manage- 
ment of affairs was left to agents, who inaugurated a sys- 
tem of oppression that soon became absolute slavery with 
all its revolting features. By 1776 only six hundred of the 
colonists were left. In the summer of that year a j)arty of 
Englishmen from St. Augustine visited New Smyrna to see 
the improvements, and, while conversing among themselves, 
their comments on the state of affairs were overheard by a 
bright Minorcan boy, who immediately told his mother what 
he had heard. Secret meetings were held, and a plan was 
concocted whereby a party of three of the bolder spirits were 
granted leave of absence to catch turtle. Instead of going 
south, however, they started up the coast, swam Matanzas 
Inlet, and reaching St. Augustine appealed to Governor 
Tonyn for protection, which was promised. The envoys re- 
turned to New Smyrna with the tidings of release. A leader 
was chosen, Pallicier by name, and under his direction the 
able-bodied men provided themselves with wooden spears, 
rations were packed for three days, and with the women and 
children in the centre the six hundred began their march. 
So secretly was all this managed that they had proceeded 
several miles before their departure was discovered. No at- 
tempt at forcible restraint was made, though it is said that 



NEW SMYRNA. 205 

Turnball liimself waylaid them before they reached St. Au- 
gustine, and endeavored to persuade them to return. They 
marched on, however, and reported to the Governor, who 
ordered provisions for them, and organized a court for the 
trial of their cause, the Attorney-General of the Province, 
Younge by name, appearing as their counsel. Turnbull 
failed to, establish any further claim upon their services, and 
they were assured of personal liberty. Lands were assigned 
them, and they soon became an influential element of the 
population in St. Augustine. Some of their descendants are 
still to be found in the neighborhood of New Smyrna, 
whither they returned after they became assured that there 
was no danger of re-enslavement. 

The canals, half -overgrown trenches, and crumbling ruins 
of stone buildings are all that now remain of Turnbull's en- 
terprise, but they are beginning to play their part in the new 
agricultural undertakings of the day. No doubt the whole 
elaborate system of drainage will sooner or later again be 
utilized. 

After the Minorcan revolt New Smyrna was abandoned for 
nearly a generation. In 1803, however, a few x^ioneers came 
back, and by 1835 some degree of prosj^erity had returned. 
Then came the Seminole War and the little settlement was 
nearly exterminated by successive raids. After peace was 
restored the survivors found their way back, rebuilt their 
houses, and for twenty years were undisturbed. 

With the outbreak of the Civil War Mosquito Inlet of- 
fered a tempting haven for blockade -runners, and it became 
necessary to break up the rendezvous. Two United States 
gunboats, the Penguin and the Henry Andrew, reached the 
inlet on March 20, 1862. The last named vessel, being of 
light draft, crossed the bar. On the 22d a boat expedition, 
with 43 men, was sent down to Mosquito Lagoon to recon- 
noitre. They went down eighteen miles, passing New 
Smyrna unmolested, but on their return the leading boat 
was fired into from an earthwork near the town, which from 
previous examination was supposed to be abandoned. Lieu- 
tenant Budd of the Penguin and Master Mather of the An- 
drew were killed, and in the engagement that followed thir- 



206 NEW SMYRNA. 

teen others were killed or wounded. The survivors took to 
cover on shore and rejoined their ships after night had fallen. 
Of course summary vengeance was taken for this attack, and 
all buildings, wharves, and the like, that could be of service 
to blockade-runners were destroyed. 

New Smyrna is a favorite resort for sportsmen. The pro- 
prietor of the hotel, Captain Sams, is familiar with the 
whole region and is always ready either to accompany his 
guests himself on hunting expeditions or to furnish compe- 
tent guides, boats, and equipments. Large and small game 
of all kinds is to be found in the woods and savannahs of the 
mainland, and water-fowl frequent the marshy islands that 
border the lagoons. The best of salt-water fish are caught 
from the wharves or in the channel, especially in the vicinity 
of Mosquito Inlet, four miles distant (see p. 207). 

A few rods south of the hotel is one of the drainage canals 
cut by Turnbull's engineers. On the other side, north of the 
hotel, is a fine shell-mound, on which Turnbull built his 
" castle " which is said to have been a solid structure cap- 
able of good defence. The house that now occupies the 
mound is built over the old cellars. South of the railroad 
are other ruins, the remains of an old stone wharf, an old 
burial-ground, and other evidences of long-forgotten habi- 
tations. Farther back from the shore are ruined sugar-mills, 
indigo-vats, and a network of admirably planned and con- 
structed drainage works. In this direction an excellent 
road continues to Hawks Park (2 miles), a beautifully situ- 
ated town with pretty houses, a fine reach of river and easy 
access to an ocean beach that has not a break for 130 miles. 

Four miles north of the town, on a fine shell-mound, are 
the walls of an old coquina house, still in excellent preser- 
vation. It is called '' The Eock House," but nothing what- 
ever is known of its origin. It is said to have antedated 
the Turnbull period. Two or three times it has been re- 
paired and occupied, but as often has been destroyed by war 
or accident. It is a picturesque little ruin, commanding a 
fine outlook to seaward. The road lies through a magnifi- 
cent forest. Beyond the " Eock House " the road continues 
several miles to a point overlooking Turnbull Bay, where 



PONCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET. 207 

luncheon can usually be procured at a house near by. It is 
not a public house, however, and such accommodation is by 
courtesy. 



64. Ponce Park and Mosquito Inlet, Volusia County. 

Lat. 29° 4' 49'^ N.— Long. 80° 55^33" W. 
PacetWs Hotel, $2 a day. 

Steamboats, on alternate days, north to Daytona and south to New Smyrna 
and Titusville, at all which points are railroad connections. 

The coast from Matanzas Inlet (see p. 178) to Mosquito 
Inlet, forty-eight miles, is a repetition of that to the northward. 
A continuous beach of hard, white sand, with deep water half 
a mile to seaward. The general trend of the coast is south 
by east, curving slightly inward, and the woods from inlet to 
inlet on the mainland are seemingly unbroken. About three 
miles north of Mosquito Inlet there is a conspicuous green 
hill forty feet high, and there are numerous sand-hills in the 
vicinity twenty feet high. Conspicuous bluffs lie also to the 
southward of the inlet. The break in the beach is half a 
mile wide with a channel two hundred yards wide and five to 
ten feet of water at low tide. The main rise and fall of the 
tide is about two feet four inches. The sand-bars shift rap- 
idly according to wind and tide, and the entrance is dan- 
gerous without a local pilot. The lighthouse is a red brick 
tower surmounted by a black lantern 160 feet above the sea. 
It shows a white fixed light of the first order, visible eigh- 
teen miles at sea. This tower was finished in 1887 and will 
well repay a visit, for all its appointments are of the most 
approved type. A flight of 218 steps leads to the lantern. 
The walls are twelve feet thick at the base. From the gal- 
lery at the top a strange and impressive view may be ob- 
tained of the inlet and the surrounding wilderness of sea 
and shore. The lighthouse is open to visitors at all hours 
when the keepers are not on duty. The exact latitude and 
longitude of the tower are given at the head of this article. 

Ponce Park is the lawful name of the hamlet half a mile 
north of the light tower. It is a noted resort for fishermen, 
as the neighboring waters abound with sheepshead, bass, 
Spanish mackerel, bluefish, and the other salt-water varie- 



208 PONCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET. "* 

ties. The hotel is adequate for the needs of sportsmen. 
The walks in the vicinity are limited to the beaches and to a 
few trails cut through the scrub to the ocean. From the 
hotel south to the inlet (one mile) is an easy w^alk and the mag- 
nificent ocean beach may be followed thence as far as de- 
sired. Some of the trails leading from the beach to the 
lighthouse and hotel are vely difficult, and should not be at- 
tempted except by good walkers. The ocean beach is very 
fascinating with its rare and curious shells and its endless 
perspective of sand and surf. It is in perfect condition for 
driving during several hours between tides every day. 

For extended excursions boats are the only available ve- 
hicles, and of these there is a good supply at the hotel. The 
lagoons north and south, the beach beyond the Inlet, and 
the intricate channels leading into Turnbull Bay are all 
open to the boatman, and full of attractions for gunners, 
fishermen, and tourists. 

Hillsborough River extends southward from Mosquito 
Inlet tliirty-six miles, to the head of 'Indian River. The 
first few miles are bordered by bluffs on the south or sea- 
ward side and marshes on the north. The channel is quite 
deep, vessels drawing ten feet ascend to New Smyrna (see p. 
203), but the shallows are intricate and shifting. Through 
this part of the river the tide runs swiftly. South of 
Smyrna the river is nearly parallel to the beach. The divid- 
ing strip of land is often high and wooded, with occasional 
settlements. The mid section of the river is much cut up 
and obstructed by mangrove islands, and the channels are 
intricate, but the main passage has been well marked by bea- 
cons maintained by the canal company. In some jplaces 
the water is ten feet deep, but only four feet can be carried 
through. 

Turtle Mound, ten miles south of Mosquito Inlet, is the only 
conspicuous natural landmark on this part of the coast. It 
is so called from its fancied resemblance to a sea-turtle, the 
central mound representing the shell, and two flanking 
mounds the flippers. Seen from the summit of the mound, 
the resemblance is quite apparent, but it is probably acci- 
dental. The mound is about fortv feet high. The north 



PONCE PARK AND MOSQUITO INLET. 209 

side is quite precipitous, showing the shell strata with occa- 
sional evidences of fires, and, rarely, some rude Indian relic. 
An excavation was made by explorers in the summit of the 
inound many years ago, but nothing of especial interest was 
discovered. 

The lower or southern reach, Hillsborough River, is twenty 
miles long with an average width of about tw^o miles. A 
narrow strip of sand, often not more than two hundred yards 
wide, separates it from the beach. The depth is four and 
one-half to five feet. About twelve miles from its junction 
with Halifax River it overlaps the head of Indian River, 
being divided from it on the west by a ridge of limestone 
rock, generally about one thousand yards wide. A canal 
has been cut through the ridge seven hundred and fifty 
yards long and fifty feet wide, and through this the boats of 
the Indian River Steamboat Company now pass regularly to 
and from the Indian River. Below the Haulover Canal the 
land separating Halifax and Indian Rivers broadens into a 
large tract known as Merritt's Island, though it is in reality 
two islands separated by Banana River (see map of Brevard 
County, p. 9) . 

Towns and landings on Halifax River, Hillsborough River, 
and Mosquito Lagoon are as follows : 

Miles. | Miles. 

Tomoka ' New Smyrna 5 

OrmoBd 6 i Hawks Park 3 

Holly Hill 3 ! Oak Hill, ) .^.^ 

Daytona 3 Eldora (East bank)/ ■^"•^ 

Blake 3 I Shiloh 5 

Port Orange 3 i Haulover 6 

Ponce Park (Mosquito Inlet) 5 j Titusville 12 



210 THE INDIAN RIVER. 

70. The Indian River. 

See map of Brevard County, p. 9. The direct route from Jacksonville to the 
head of the river is by J„ T. & K. W. Ey., one hundred and fifty-nine miles, to 
Titusville (5 hom's 50 minutes). This may be varied by going to Daytona and 
thence by boat southward. Boats leave Daytona on alternate days, or by rail 
to New Smyrna, and thence by boat as above (see p. 209). 

Indian Kiver is in many respects the most remarkable and 
interesting watercourse in Florida. Connected through in- 
lets with the Atlantic Ocean, and more or less affected by its 
tides, it retains many of the characteristics of a freshwater 
stream, owing to the numerous tributaries that join it from 
the great natural reservoirs of the mainland. 

From its head, twelve miles north of Titusville, to its 
southern extremity at Jupiter Inlet, Indian Eiver is one hun- 
dred and forty-two miles long, and so straight that water and 
sky seem to meet, as at sea, when one looks north or south 
along the river. The width varies from one hundred feet in 
the Narrows, to three miles or more at the widest part. The 
head of the river is divided opposite Cape Canaveral by a 
broad tract called Merritt's Island. The eastern branch is 
Banana River, and this again has a branch called Banana 
Creek, dividing the Island opposite Titusville (see map of 
Brevard County). Banana Eiver has five to six feet of 
water ; Banana Creek two to three feet. Indian River com- 
municates with the sea through two inlets, namely, Indian 
River Inlet, sixty miles south of Cape Canaveral, and Jupiter 
Inlet at its southern end. The first named has about four 
and one-half feet at high water, and the other about five 
feet. 

Cape Canaveral (pronounced Can-av'-eral) is a peculiar sharp 
outstanding angle of the coast, j)rojecting about eight miles 
beyond the general trend of the beach. To the north and 
south the coast line is south-southeast. A glance at the 
map immediately suggests the idea that Merritt's Island 
was once the cape, and that slow geological upheaval raised 
it to its present altitude, while the present cape was thrown 
up by the sea to take its place as a breakwater. The general 
outlines are almost identical. The cape is a triangular tract 
of bare sea sand, partially covered with scrub, desolate be- 



THE INDIAN RIVER. 211 

yond expression, but a fine ocean view and an outlook over 
the strange landward prospect may be obtained from the 
tower. The mainland is largely shut off by the compara- 
tively high ridges of Merritt's Island, but the whole course 
of Banana River can be followed. 

The lighthouse tower stands on the northeast pitch of the 
cape, in latitude 28" 27' 37" N., Long. 80° 31' 31" W. The 
tower is 139 feet high, and shows a white flash light of the 
first order every sixty seconds, visible 17f nautical miles. 
The tower is painted black and white in horizontal bands. 
A light was first established here in 1847, and the old tower 
still remains as a landmark. The present tower was built 
in 1868. An automatic whistling buoy is anchored 6f miles 
off the cape to warn vessels of dangerous outlying shoals 
when the light cannot be seen. In 1887 the sea encroached 
129 feet on the tower, and Congress made an appropriation 
to construct a revetment for its protection. 

At the outbreak of the Civil War the lightkeeper, Captain 
Burnham, who had been long in the service of the Govern- 
ment, learned that a project was on foot to seize and destroy 
the costly Fresnel lantern and its machinery. Burnham was 
in sympathy with the cause of secession, but he was never- 
theless faithful to his trust, and baffled all attempts of the 
Confederates to capture the lantern and its belongings. 

Six miles north of the cape are the remains of an old re- 
doubt, evidently the work of Europeans. It is not improb- 
able that this may have been the fort erected by the sur- 
vivors of Eibaut's expedition who refused to surrender to the 
Spaniards at Matanzas (see p. 178). 

The sea-coast from Mosquito Inlet to False Cape is formed 
by the narrow strips of land that separate the inland la- 
goons from the ocean, everywhere is a stretch of beach backed 
by scrub and a forest of pines with an occasional hammock 
island or shell mound. The three-fathom line is in some 
places only a third of a mile from the beach. Between 
False Cape and Cape Canaveral there are dangerous outlying 
shoals, with a good depth near the beach. 

The boats of the Indian Biver Steamboat Company leave 
Titusville every morning for Jupiter and intermediate land- 



212 THE INDIAN RIVER. 

ings. The conditions of navigation are such and the length 
of the trip so great that it cannot be accomplished wholly by 
daylight, but the boats are commodious and well equipped 
in all respects, with comfortable state-rooms and an excel- 
lent table. 

The whole trip is interesting to the tourist for its novelty. 
On the one hand is a narrow strip of beach across which, at 
intervals, one may see the masts of southward bound steam- 
ers, keeping close in shore to avoid the Gulf Stream ; on the 
other are occasional settlements with the unbroken forest 
between, and beyond them a wilderness that has never yet 
been thoroughly explored. On the broad reaches of the 
river are countless flocks of ducks and geese, and overhead 
are hundreds of unfamiliar birds. The navigation of the 
narrows is always entertaining. The boats are built with 
special reference to short turns, and as they push their way 
through the crooked channels, the mangroves brush along 
the guards, and some new surprise awaits the spectator at 
every turn. The water is usually highly phosphorescent at 
night, and wonderful displays of nature's fireworks may be 
seen as the boat passes through flocks of ducks or over 
schools of mullet and the other fish with which these waters 
abound. At times the surface, for a hundred feet or more 
on either side of the bow, is crossed and recrossed by an in- 
tricate embroidery pattern traced in lines of soft yet bril- 
liant light. 

The last part of the trip to the southward is necessarily 
jDerformed by night, but on the return trip this part of the 
journey is made by daylight, so that, going or returning, 
there is an opportunity to see the whole river. 

The western shore is the home of the famous Indian 
Biver orange, and in the vicinity of the settlements cul- 
tivated groves have replaced the dense natural growth. In 
most cases a screen of palmettos or other forest trees has 
been left to protect the oranges from the easterly winds, 
which, coming direct from the ocean, are often injurious. 
For this reason few groves are to be seen from passing 
steamers, but during the shipping season the boats are heav- 
ily freighted with crates of the finest fruit. 



THE INDIAN RIVER -TIT US VILLE. 213 

Farther south pineapples become an important item of 
comnierce, and the bhiflfs near Eden are covered with acres of 
this curious plant. One of the most enjoyable features of the 
trip is the gradual change noted in the vegetation, which as- 
sumes more and more the subtropical characteristics until 
at Jupiter a fine specimen of the cocoa-palm is seen in full 
bearing. 



71. Titusyille, Brevard County. 

Population, 1,000.— Lat. 28° 35' N.— Long. 80° 40' W. 

Hotels.— Jwdmw River Hotel, $1.50 to $2.50 a day, $6 to $10 a week.— Grand 
View Hotel, same rates. 

Eailroad.— Indian River Division J., T. & K. W. system to Enterprise 
Junction. For stations and distances see pp. 11 and 97. 

Steamboats. — The Indian Kiver Steamboat Companj^ Daily boats to 
Jupiter. Boats on alternate days to Daytona and intermediate landings. 

Saddle-horses, 25c. an hour, $2 a day. 

Rowhoats, 25c. an hour, $2 a day. Sailboats, $2 to $10 a day. 

Guides, $1 to $5 a day. 

Titusville is the county town, with a bank, stores, and con- 
siderable business interests. It affords a good head-quarters 
for tourists or sportsmen desiring to engage boats for long 
hunting and fishing expeditions. In the immediate vicin- 
ity are Cape Canaveral and the creeks, rivers, and ponds in- 
tersecting Merritt's Island, the beaches, the Haulover Canal, 
with the Dummitt orange grove, and the shores of Indian 
River in either direction. 

Titusville was formerly called Sand Point. It was founded 
by one Colonel Titus, a leader in the Kansas Crusade of 1855 
-1856, and a pioneer in this region, who was for many years 
the autocrat of the settlement. 



214 ROCKLEDGE. 



72. Rockledge, Brevard County. 

Population, 300.— Lat. 28° 18' N.— Long. 80° 38' W. 

Hotels. — Indian River Hotel, $4 a day, — New Rockledge, $2.50 a day. — Tropi- 
cal House, $3 a day. Good board at $12 a week. 
Churches, Episcopal, Methodist, and Presbyterian. 
Guide, C. E. Cook. Special terms must be made. 
Mo^vboats, $2.50 a day. Sailboats, $4 a day. 

The appropriateness of the name Rockledge is evident as 
soon as the steamer draws near the shore. For three or four 
miles an abrupt dyke of coralline rock rises along the water- 
side to a height of from six to twelve feet. Along the crest 
of the ridge, sheltered from the ocean winds by a fine growth 
of palms and live oaks, is the town of Rockledge, with nu- 
merous handsome houses, many of them designed for the 
winter residences of Northern visitors, several good hotels, 
and a general air of comfort and prosperity that cannot fail 
to prove attractive. An excellent roadway, suitable for 
pleasure driving, extends for several miles along the water- 
side. 

The river is here about a mile and a half wide, the oppo- 
site shore being the southern point of Merritt's Island. Be- 
yond this is the wide Banana River, separated from the 
ocean by a narrow strip of sandy beach. The river in both 
directions offers numerous attractions for hunters, fishermen, 
and picnic parties. 

Three miles west of Rockledge is Lake Poinsett, to the 
shores of which there is a practicable road. Boats are some- 
times hauled across. The fishing in the lake is said to be 
exceptionally good, and game of all kinds is to be found 
along the borders of the savannahs. 



MELBOURNE. 215 



73. Melbourne, Brevard County. 

Population, 200.— Lat, 28° 5' N.— Long. 80° 30' W. 

Hotels.— Car ?e tow, Goode Home, Idlewild Cottage, Riverside, $1.50 to $2 a day, 
$7 and upward by the week. 

Steamboats.— Indian River Steamboat Co., daily, north to Titusville, south to 
Jupiter. 

C^wrc^«s.— Episcopal, Methodist, Presbyterian. 

At this point the Eiver is two miles across and the penin- 
sula half a mile wide, with a tramway to the ocean beach, 
where are facilities for bathing. The trip across the river 
is made by steam feriy or by small boats, and is the favorite 
short excursion for visitors. Not far distant is the Govern- 
ment House of Eefuge provided for the relief of shipwrecked 
mariners. 

There are no roads suitable for driving in this neighbor- 
hood. All locomotion must needs be effected on foot or by 
water. The mouth of Banana Eiver is about six miles north 
of Melbourne. The town of Tropic, with a hotel where 
meals or lodging may be had, is on the point between the 
two rivers. It is an all-day excursion by steam launch to 
Canaveral near the head of Banana Eiver. A difficult trail 
leads westward about seven miles through hammocks and 
swamps to Lake Washington, one of the sources of the St. 
John's Eiver. All kinds of game are to be found in the 
vicinity of Melbourne. There are no professional guides, 
but it is always possible to secure the services of a hunter 
familiar with the region. Special bargains are made accord- 
ing to services required. 



216 JUPITER INLET. 

74. Jupiter Inlet, Dade County. 

Lat. 26° 56' 54" N.— Long. 80° 4' 48" W. 

Hotel. — The Chattahoochee (a large river steamboat moored to the wharf and 
adapted to this use), $3 a day. 
Steamboats. — Indian River Steamboat Company, daily to Titusville. 
Railroad.— J \xpiter & Lake Worth Railroad, 8 miles south to Juno. 
Boats. — ^Naphtha launch and rowboats for hire at hotel at reasonable rates. 

Jupiter Inlet marks the southern extremity of the long 
series of rivers or lagoons that skirt the coast of Florida in 
an almost unbroken chain. The opening is about one-eighth 
of a mile wide with three feet depth at mean low water. The 
tide runs swiftly at the ebb and flow, fresh or salt water pre- 
ponderating according to the stage of the water in the ever- 
glades and the considerable streams that here make down 
from the interior. The inlet widens just within the beach, 
and there is good and secure anchorage for small vessels in- 
side the north point. 

The large steamboat that does excellent duty as a hotel is 
moored about a mile from the inlet, and nearly opposite the 
mouth of Jupiter Sound, as the lower reach of the river is 
called. From the upper deck there is a good view of the in- 
let and the neighboring waters. 

No one capable of mounting the stairs should fail to cross 
over to the lighthouse and enjoy the impressive view of 
ocean, river, forest, and prairie that spreads map-like to the 
horizon in all directions. 

The tower stands on a high blulBf west of the mouth of the 
sound, it is 94 feet high from base to centre of lantern. The 
total height above the sea-level is 146 feet. The light is of 
the first order, showing a fixed white light varied by a white 
flash every ninety seconds. It is visible 20 miles. Cape 
Canaveral, 147 miles nearly north, and the lighthouse on 
Fowey Kocks, 94 miles nearly south, are the nearest neigh- 
bors of this lonely tower, which was established here in 1860 
and save during the four years of civil war has not failed. 
From the lantern gallery one may see, in clear weather, 
more than forty miles up and down the coast, and across the 
intervening forest nearly to the shores of Lake Okeecho- 
bee. To the northward may be traced the courses of Ju- 
piter Sound, North Fork, and Northwest Fork, while to the 



JUPITER INLET. 217 

southward are Southwest Fork, and Lake Worth Creek. 
All these streams are easily navigable for many miles, are 
literally alive with fish, and receive numerous tributaries 
which can be ascended in canoes or small boats into the 
heart of the wilderness. Lake Worth Creek is navigable 
with a short carry to the lake, but it is almost impossible to 
find the right channel without a guide. As a rule all the 
streams in this region become very crooked near their 
sources, and the various channels are so often involved that 
the explorer should not forget to mark the different openings 
wherever the current fails to indicate the true course. 

Tliere is no better fishing on the coast than is found at 
Jupiter Inlet. Bluefish, bass, pompano, cavaille, runners, 
ladyfish, sheepshead, and other varieties are taken with the 
rod. Tarpon are found here, but will rarely take bait be- 
fore May or June. Sharks abound at the inlet and may 
be caught with suitable tackle in the channel or from the 
steamboat wharf. Panthers and wild cats still iDrowl about 
the settlement at night, and bears frequent the hammocks and 
islands along the water-courses. Deer and turkeys are 
pretty well hunted off by the Indians, who range as far north 
as this from their haunts in the everglades, but with the aid 
of guides good sport may be had hj hunters who are not 
afraid of hard work. 

The lighthouse settlement includes a signal station, with 
a complete outfit of instruments. It is the duty of the ser- 
geant in charge to transmit to Washington daily weather re- 
ports, and as this station is the most southerly on the Atlan- 
tic coast his warnings of cyclonic storms are often of great 
importance. He also signals passing vessels and reports 
them for the benefit of merchants. A Government telegraph 
line runs from this point to Titusville, so that there is easy 
communication with the North. 

Jupiter may be regarded as the northern limit of the cocoa 
palm. A fine large tree in full bearing stands at the foot of 
the bluff below the lighthouse. A few miles farther north, 
on the east side of Jupiter Sound, there is a thriving group 
of young trees, but north of this latitude their existence is 
somewhat precarious. 



218 JUPITER INLET. 

Whence Jupiter derived its name is not certainly known. 
It was occupied as a military post during the Indian war, 
and two considerable engagements occurred, one on " Jupiter 
Creek," on January 15, 1838, and the other near the inlet, 
on January 24th of the same year. A large number of Ind- 
ians were captured at that time by the United States forces. 

Aside from the lightkeepers' families, the life-saving crew, 
and the employees about the hotel and wharf, few inhabi- 
tants are discoverable. There is, however, a sparse popula- 
tion in the vicinity, and now and then an Indian or a hunter 
finds his way to the landing with game or in search of sup- 
plies. 

The manatee or sea-cow is still found in this vicinity, 
though he must be regarded as nearly extinct. Inasmuch 
as this curious amphibian is perfectly harmless, and since his 
carcass is neither useful nor ornamental, it is hoped that 
persons with firearms will deny themselves the pleasure of 
shedding his blood. Pelicans, too, are far more interesting 
alive than dead. They readily become quite tame if not 
molested, and, since they cannot be regarded as game 
birds, all true sportsmen should oppose their indiscrimi- 
nate slaughter. 

An expedition in a small boat after dark is very enjoyable, 
and often exciting, from the multitudes of fish that dash 
against the boat, and sometimes leap over or into it in frantic 
efibrts to escape from their pursuers. A lantern shown at a 
favorable moment will sometimes bring mullet flying into 
the boat by dozens. 

It is interesting to stand on the upper deck of the Chatta- 
hoochee and watch the revolving rays of the lighthouse as 
they touch different points of sea and shore, here penetrat- 
ing a dark nook among the mangroves and there lighting 
up a stretch of beach, with white breakers on the bar. With 
a powerful field-glass one may see strange sights as the rays 
search out bird, beast, or fish, under the fancied security of 
darkness. 

Except in very calm weather small boats should not go 
outside the inlet. The tide sets outward furiously, and no 
one not perfectly familiar with the management of boats 



JUPITER INLET. 219 

should venture near the narrow channel. The outer breakers 
are very deceptive. Often when tliey look quite harmless 
from the beach they will be found very formidable when 
near at hand. To be upset or swamped with the tide run- 
ning ebb is a perilous mishap. 

One mile south of the inlet is the United States Life Sav- 
ing Station. The walk to it is not difficult, either along the 
beach or across the point. In either case turn to the left 
after leaving the wharf and follow the road past the post- 
office. Thence a foot-path leads along the shore of the in- 
let, sometimes at the waterside, and sometimes among the 
trees, to the ocean beach, where the station will be seen about 
one mile to the right. If the old trail to Lake Worth be 
followed it will be found to lead southward through a low 
growth of scrub and cedars. A walk of twenty minutes will 
bring the station in sight to the eastward. A trail has been 
cleared to the road nearly opposite the station. 

There is no danger of losing one's bearings anywhere be- 
tween the railroad and the ocean, for the sound of the surf 
is a sure guide, and both beach and railroad track lead 
directly to the hotel. The Life Saving Station was estab- 
lished in 1885. Seven men are continually on duty, and, 
though no wrecks have occurred since the house was built, 
coasting craft often come to grief at the inlet and require as- 
sistance. There are weekly drills in all the operations of the 
wrecking service, launching the boat through the surf, gun- 
practice, signalling, etc. It is always interesting to witness 
these exercises, often involving skilled handling of the life- 
boat in heavy rollers. 

The beach on either side of the inlet is strewn with sun- 
cured sponges, sea-beans, cocoanuts, and a hundred strange 
forms of animal and vegetable life swept up from the coral 
reefs by the Gulf Stream, whose dark waters may often be 
seen a few miles off shore. Mangroves, aloes, gum alimbo, 
sea-grapes, and here and there a cocoa palm, are among the 
wild growths that are found along these beaches and wooded 
knolls. Here the mangrove assumes its subtropical vigor, 
and it may afford amusement to athletes to penetrate a man- 
grove swamp by walking and climbing from root to root for 



220 JUPITER INLET. 

a few hiindred yards. Along the shore of the bight that 
makes in to the south of the inlet sand has drifted among 
the mangroves, and there is good walking in all directions. 
It is worth a visit to study close at hand the picturesque 
and uncanny shapes assumed by this strange tree that is con- 
stantly encroaching on the sea, filling up inlets and making 
islands that eventually become a part of the continent. 

The outer ocean beach, or peninsula, from Cape Canaveral 
southward, varies in width from a few hundred feet to a mile 
or more. Sometimes it is barren and sometimes covered 
with a fine forest growth of pine or hardwood. At intervals 
different inlets open or close according to some law depend- 
ent on shifting currents, and on the amount of rainfall in 
the interior. At different times within the present century 
inlets have existed at Indian River Inlet, St. Lucie Rocks, 
and Gilbert's Bar, but for several years they have all been 
closed. During the summer of 1889 Indian River Inlet re- 
opened and a channel formed with three feet of water at low 
tide. 

At intervals along the beach are houses of refuge, estab- 
lished by the United States Government for the relief of 
shipwrecked mariners. These differ from life-saving stations 
in that no full crew is permanently on duty. A keeper 
is always at hand, and an ample supply of provisions 
is kept in store. Each station has a lifeboat, which in 
case of need can be manned by a volunteer crew. On the 
Indian River beach there are such houses at Chester Shoal, 
one mile and a half north of False Cape ; at Cape Malabar ; 
at Bethel Creek, ten miles north of Indian River Inlet ; at a 
point Just south of Indian River Inlet, and at Gilbert's Bar. 
At intervals of a mile along the beach signboards are set up 
giving the distance and direction of the nearest house of re- 
fuge. Regular life-saving stations are hardly necessary along 
this beach, as vessels usually take the ground in such a way 
that with the exercise of ordinary seamanship no lives need 
be lost. Food and drink, however, are not readily to be 
found, and the houses of refuge often afford needed relief. 

The following is a list of landings and distances on the 
Indian River. The steamboats touch only on signal at 



JUPITER INLET. 221 

many of the places named. W. indicates the west bank or 
mainland. Distances going south on the right, north on 
the left. 

154 Titusville, W 

142 Hardeeville, W 12 

140 Courtney (Merritt's Island) 14 

139 Faber's, W 15 

137 Sharp's (Merritt's Island) 17 

- 136 City Point, W 18 

132 Merritt (Merritt's Island) 22 

130 Cocoa, W 24 

129 Hardee's, W 25 

128 Eockledge, W 26 

126 Paxton's, W 28 

125 MagriTder's 29 

123 Georgiana (Merritt's Island) 31 

121 Whitfield (Merritt's Island) 83 

117 Brantley (Merritt's Island) 37 

112 Tropic (Merritt's Island) 42 

104 Eau Gallie, W 50 

103 Melbourne, W 51 

96. .. Tillman, W 58 

94 Malabar, W 60 

86 Micco, W 68 

81 Sebastian, W 73 

74 Orchid (Peninsula) 80 

71 Enos (Peninsula) 83 

68 Narrows (Peninsula) 86 

48 St. Lucie, W 106 

45 Fort Pierce, W 109 

38 Aukona, W 116 

31 Eden, W 123 

24 Waveland, W 130 

Jupiter, W 154 



75. Jupiter Inlet to Lake Worth. 

By Jupiter & Lake Worth Railway, 8 miles (30 minutes). By boat, 10 miles 
from inlet to inlet. 

The trip from Jupiter to Lake Worth is now accomplished 
in a few minutes. Until the season of 1889-90 it was a tedi- 
ous ride of three hours over a heavy road, where the horses 
could rarely move faster than a walk. The ocean beach in 
this vicinity is not available for driving. A good walker 
may cover the distance between the inlets in three hours, 
but the sand is too heavy for enjoyable walking. 

The little raih'oad, with its galaxy of mythological nameaf 
prudently takes shelter behind the beach ridge throughout its 
course. Here and there through gaps in the ridge glimpses 
are caught of an emerald sea and snowy breakers. On 
the landward side there is but little to break the monotony 



222 JUPITER INLET— LAKE WORTH. 

of saw palmetto, and beach scrub. The intermediate sta- 
tions of Venus and Mars passed, Little Lake Worth is pres- 
ently seen on the left, a small, shallow pond, connected 
with the larger lake by a narrow channel. The headwaters 
of Lake Worth Creek are about one mile to the westward, 
navigable for canoes and opening here and there into small 
lakes, but largely filled with saw- grass and lily-pads, and 
with nothing to distinguish the main channel from count- 
less branches. 

The outside trip is highly enjoyable in fine weather. It 
should not, however, be undertaken save under favorable 
conditions of wind and tide, as the inlets are very treacher- 
ous by reason of shifting sand and swift currents. With a 
fair wind the round trip may easily be made in a day in a 
sailboat, but the chances of being becalmed must always be 
considered. 



76. Lake Worth, Dade County. 

By boat and rail from Titusville, 162 miles. 

Hotels. — Cocoanut Grove House, Palm Beach, $2.50 a day, $10 a week. — Oak- 
lawn House, Oaklawn, $2 to $2.50 a day, $10 to $12 a week.— jSoteZ Lake Worth, 
$3 a day. 

Like the more extensive lagoons to the northward, Lake 
Worth is a long, narrow body of water, separated from the 
sea by a ridge of hammock, sand, and savannah, and with a 
shallow inlet through which the ocean tides ebb and flow. 
Beyond this lake to the southward there are no regular 
lines of travel. The next post-office in that direction is on 
Biscayne Bay, fifty miles distant, and the mail is carried 
once a week by a messenger, who walks the beach with the 
pouch on his back, and navigates the intervening inlets and 
creeks in canoes. 

Lake Worth, however, has proved very attractive to North- 
ern residents. The water side is lined for three miles or 
more with tasteful cottages and costly mansions, where 
Northerners who dread a severe winter may lead an almost 
ideal existence. 

The lake is twenty-two miles long, with an average width 
of about one mile, and a channel depth of from six to twelve 



LAKE WORTH. 223 

feet. The inlet has about five feet of water at low tide. 
The temperature of Lake Worth is largely influenced by the 
Gulf Stream, which runs close in shore at this point, the 
most easterly of Florida, and here the influence of the trade 
winds makes itself felt in equalizing the climatic conditions. 
The. normal winter temperature is about 75°, falling to 50° 
or 60° under the influence of "northers." 

In its modern aspect Lake Worth dates back only to 1875, 
but the rich hammocks along the shores were evidently un- 
der civilized cultivation centuries ago. No record is known 
to exist of a European settlement, but the existence of canals 
and ruins jDoints unmistakably to a forgotten period, prob- 
ably of Spanish occupancy. 

The favored garden region of the lake is along its eastern 
shore, with the heavily wooded peninsula to serve as protec- 
tion from ocean gales, and a marvellously productive soil to 
foster the growth of fruits, flowers, and vegetables. 

All kinds of sea-fish abound in the lake ; bluefish, sea- 
trout, pompano, Spanish mackerel, barracuda, tarpon, and 
the multitudinous mullet are caught, or " grained," accord- 
ing to their size and habits. Government surveys have been 
pushed only about twelve miles to the westward. The 
wilderness, speedily merging into the everglades, begins al- 
most with the lake shore. Beyond the ridge that bounds 
the view to the westward is a chain of fresh- water lakes, some 
twelve feet higher than the sea level ; then comes the pine 
forest, and then the "glades." Large game is to be found 
throughout this region. Guides are almost indispensable for 
successful hunting. 

In January, 1879, the misfortune of the Spanish bark 
Providencia proved a god-send to Lake Worth. She was 
cast away on the coast, and her cargo of 20,000 cocoanuts 
distributed itself impartially for miles up and down the 
beach. Many thousands of the nuts were gathered and 
planted (laid on the ground, that is) in rows, in circles, 
singly, and in groups, with the result that now the cocoa 
palm lifts its graceful fronds above every roof, lines walks 
and avenues, and lends a tropical aspect to the whole settle- 
ment. 



224 LAKE WORTH. 

A natnial sea-wall is formed along the sliore by the under- 
lying coralline rock, and some of the more wealthy residents, 
not satisfied with this, have added an artificial wall. No 
fences interru}3t the pedestrian along this charming water- 
side, A smooth walk, shaded and, for the most part, well- 
kept, tempts to extended excursions, and leads at intervals 
through private grounds that are marvels of beauty. Olean- 
ders and poncianas here are trees twenty or thirty feet high, 
gigantic cacti stand like sentinels on the lawns ; the hibis- 
cus, red, white, and yellow, lavishes its blossoms in every 
garden, and mangoes, guavas, limes, lemons, oranges, figs, 
dates, bananas, and pineapples grow wherever they are per- 
mitted to take root. The west shore is best adapted for 
pineapples, and already the shipments amount to a consid- 
erable item in the annual returns. 

From nearly every house a walk or trail leads across the 
peninsula to the ocean beach, where a magnificent surf comes 
rushing in warm from the Gulf Stream, and laden with 
shells and marine curiosities that tempt collectors to wander 
for miles along the sands in search of sea-fans, fragments of 
coral, Portuguese-men-of-war, sponges, sea-beans, echinse, 
and countless other waifs that one may often be at a loss to 
name. 

- South-bound steamers keep close along the beach to avoid 
the current that rushes northward at the rate of four or five 
miles an hour a little farther off shore. Earely a day passes 
that several of these fine vessels are not seen, while out in 
the stream northward-bound craft are speeding in the oppo- 
site direction with wind and tide in their favor. 

After an easterly gale the beach is sure to be particularly 
interesting, since the accumulation of curiosities and general 
wreckage is largely increased. 

The highest point on the peninsula is sixty-five feet above 
the sea level. The land rises somewhat near the lake, and 
again into a wide ridge near the ocean ; between these is a 
low and naturally marshy tract, which has been largely 
drained and utilized for the cultivation of vegetables. 
Strangers should not shoot alligators near the cultivated 
tracts, as some of them are half tame, and are preserved by 



LAKE WORTH. 225 

the owners of the land. Elsewhere shooting is allowable. 
Deer are still found on the peninsula ; rabbits and various 
game birds abound, and there is a chance for a wildcat in 
the denser cover. There are five principal landings and nu- 
merous private landings, where the small steamers that ply 
on the lake stop on signal. 

At Juno, tlie terminus of the railroad, passengers board 
one of the steamers which presently starts down the 
lake. 

About one mile south, beyond a low point, is the liaulover 
or carry, where canoes may be hauled across one-half mile 
to a small pond, the source of Lake Worth Creek, navigable 
for small boats to Jupiter. 

Pelican Island is passed on the right. Formerly this was 
the resort of countless birds; "a roost," as it was locally 
called. Now it is a most attractive place, with fine live oaks, 
a handsome house, and well-cared-for grounds. It is, in 
fact, an exceptionally rich tract, guano deposits of former 
years adding greatly to its fertility. 

Oak Lawn (P.O.), six miles from Juno, with its hotel, is 
on the west side of the lake, a fine bluff crowned with trees 
rising from the waterside. It is nearly opposite the inlet, 
and the fishing here is probably as good as anywhere on the 
lake, while fine shooting is to be found within easy walking 
distance in any direction along shore, or among the savan- 
nahs and woods to the westward. 

Lake Worth (P.O.), eight miles from Juno, is pleasantly 
situated about one mile south of the inlet. Here begins the 
continuous line of houses that stretches along the eastern 
shore. Prominent among these are the residences of Charles 
I. Cragin, of Philadelphia, Mrs. F. Lane, of New York, and 
E. E. McCormick, of Denver, all of which are remarkable 
for the beauty of their surroundings. In general the pro- 
prietors are glad to have visitors enjoy their grounds, but 
permission should of course be asked if it is desired to in- 
si^ect the immediate vicinity of the houses. 

Palm Beach (P.O.), eight and one-half miles from Juno, 
is fairly embowered in cocoa palms. The hotel especially 
has around it a large number of fine specimens, with a large 



226 LAKE WORTH. 

royal pionceana, "whistling trees," bung full of curious 
pods, and numerous other curiosities in plant life. There is 
a good country store a short distance north of the hotel, and 
charming walks, either to the beach, where there is a bath- 
house (key at the hotel), or along the lake shore in either 
direction. 

Figulus (P.O.), eleven miles from Juno, is on the east 
shore of the lake, and Hypoluxo (P.O.), sixteen miles from 
Juno, occupies an island, the southern end of which extends 
to within about one mile of the foot of the lake, where there 
is a " haulover " to the ocean beach, the small creek that 
reaches a short distance to the southward being impractica- 
ble even for canoes. 



77. The Sea-coast South of Lake Worth. 

From Lake Worth Inlet south for thirty miles to Hillsboro 
Inlet the beach is unbroken. About half-way, however, is 
the Orange Grove house of refuge, where shelter, food, 
and water may be obtained. Five miles south of this the 
headwaters of Hillsboro Eiver unite a few hundred yards 
from the beach, forming a little lake about three feet deep. ^ 
One-half mile farther south is Lake Wyman, four to five feet 
deep, and with a connecting channel navigable for small 
boats to Lake Boca Eatone and the Hillsboro Eiver. 
- At the inlet is a branch stream from the southward that 
closely follows the beach for three miles, ending in a shallow 
lake. 

Eight miles south of Hillsboro Inlet is the Fort Lauderdale 
house of refuge, to the westward of which, about one-half 
mile, the headwaters of New Eiver and its tributaries offer 
inland passage for small boats. 

New Eiver Inlet is fifteen miles south of Hillsboro Inlet, 
the river so-called being a narrow lagoon, about five miles 
long, separated from the sea by a low ridge of sand and divid- 
ing at the head into an infinite number of tributaries and 
lakes with a depth of water varying from three to ten feet 
in the channels. The upper reaches of the river are very 



LAKE WORTH. 22 



^w i 



wild and beautiful. At this writing (1890) there are no per- 
manent settlers, save Indians whose camps can hardly be 
considered permanent. Two miles south of the house of 
refuge is a conspicuous group of cocoa palms on the 
beach. 

Eight miles south of New Eiver Inlet is a " haulover," 
where a lake known as Dumfounding Bay approaches within 
one-quarter of a mile of the beach. Thence to the head- 
waters of Biscayne Bay, about two miles, navigation is com- 
paratively easy for small boats, though the channel is very 
crooked. Biscayne Bay house of refuge is about sixteen 
miles south of New Eiver Inlet and eight miles north of 
Norris Cut the most northerly entrance to Biscayne 
Bay. 

From Lake Worth to Norris Cut the beach offers but 
tinsatisfactory foothold for man or beast. For near fifty 
miles it is uninhabited, drinkable water is very scarce, and 
there is little to attract the explorer except the perpetual 
beauty of the ocean and the navigable inland waters con- 
nected with Hillsboro and New River Inlets. 

A company of speculators a few years since planted an en- 
ormous number of cocoanuts along this beach with a view to 
the sale of building lots. The trees have been left to caro 
for themselves, but many of them have grown, and it is quite 
possible that in a few years they will materially change the 
aspect of the coast. 



80. Sanford to Tampa Bay and Port Tampa. 

By South Florida Eailroad, 124 miles (5 hours 30 minutes). For stations and 
distances see pp. TO, 73, 79, and maps of Orange, Polk, and Hillsborough 
Counties. 

For the first forty miles, to Kissimmee, the line runs 
nearly south, bearing a little to the westward. Passing Win- 
ter Park, one of the prettiest places in Florida, and Orlando, 
the busy county town of one of the most prosperous coun- 
ties in the State, the train presently leaves the high rolling 
pine lands and enters upon a comparatively level tract ex- 



228 LAKE WORTH. 

tending to the Kissimmee group of lakes. Thence curving 
to the westward it crosses Davenport Creek, a tributary of 
the Kissimmee and at Haines City enters the Polk County 
lake region, which drains into Charlotte Harbor. At Lake- 
land the train divides, part going southward to Punta 
Gorda (Route 81) and part westward to Tampa and Poit 
Tampa, there connecting with the Morgan Steamship Line, 
and the Plant Steamship Line to Key West, Havana, New 
Orleans, and Mobile, also with coastwise steamers to Mana- 
tee Eiver, the Pinellas Peninsula, Orange Belt Eailway, and 
the different Bay ports. 



81. Sanford to Punta Gorda. 

By South Florida Eailroad and Florida Southern Kailway, 172 miles. See 
maps of Orange, Osceola, Polk, and De Soto Counties. 

To Lakeland, eighty-three miles, the course is the same 
as in Eoute 80. Thence the general direction is soutli, 
following Peace Eiver [Flumen Pads of the early map 
makers). Bartow, the county town (Polk County) is the 
most important place on the route. Fort Meade was estab- 
lished as a United States military post December 19, 1849, 
and maintained until September 20, 1857. It is now a 
thriving town of 400 inhabitants. Near Bowling Green is 
the line between Polk and De Soto Counties (see map, p. 
22). A short distance south is the site of Fort Choconitka, 
established October 26, 1849, and abandoned July 18, 1850. 

Zolfo Springs is so called from the number of sulphur 
springs that exist in the vicinity, the prefix being presuma- 
bly a local phonetic abbreviation of the longer word. 

Charley ApopTca always attracts attention from its extraor- 
dinary name, which is, in fact, an unpardonable corruption 
from the Seminole Tsalopopkahatchee, meaning " catfish-eat- 
ing creek." The terminal hatchee (river or creek) was first 
dropped, and Tsalo-popka was finally Americanized into its 
present form.^ 

' For this explanation the editor is indebted to Mr. E. A. Richards, of Or- 
lando. 



PUNTA GORDA. 229 

The name Apopka, iDioperly Ahapopka, is found else- 
where in the State, often in combination with other Semi- 
nole terms. 

Arcadia became the seat of government of Polk County 
in November, 1889. It has a population of about two hun- 
dred, a new county court-house, a weekly newspaper, and a 
phosphate company. 



82. Puilta Gorda, De Soto County. 

Lat. 36° 55' N.— Lonor. 82° 3' W. 
Hotel. — Punta Gorda., $4 a day. 
Railkoad.— North to Bartow, Sanford, Leesburg, etc. 
Ocean steamers to Key West, Havana, and New Orleans. Coastwise steamers 
to San Carlos Bay, Caloosahatchee River, Naples, and intermediate landings. 

Punta Gorda is the most southerly railroad terminus ou 
the Gulf coast ; a favorite stopping-place for sportsmen, 
tourists, and invalids, within easy reach of the most famous 
tarpon fishing-grounds on the coast. 



The Tarpon. 

It is only since 1885 that the tarpon [Megalops th-issoides 
or atlanticus) has been recognized as a game-fish. He had 
been known to take bait j^rior to that time, but had been 
landed only by accident. Otherwise he had been harpooned 
and occasionally taken in a seine, but his great size, strength, 
and agility enabled him to defy most devices for his capture. 
In the winter of 1880-81, Mr. S. H. Jones, of Philadelphia, 
killed a 170 lb. tarpon with bass tackle at Indian Eiver Inlet. 
Mr. W. H. Wood, of New York, was the first, however, to 
reduce the sport to a science by patiently studying the habits 
of the fish 

The familiar home of the tarpon is the Gulf of Mexico, and 
he is essentially a tropical fish. Nevertheless stray speci- 
mens have been found, in summer, as far north as Cape Cod, 
and they are certainly abundant in Biscayne Bay and, prob- 
ably, farther up the east coast of Florida. Tarpon may now 



230 PUNTA GORDA. 

be accepted as the common name of the fish, though hereto- 
fore it has often been spelled *' tarpum," and is known along 
the remote coasts as "silver king," "silver fish," " grande 
ecaille " among French speaking Creoles, and " savanilla " 
on the coast of Texas. Adult specimens often exceed 
six feet in length, and weigh nearly or quite two hundred 
pounds. 

The tarpon is herring-like in general shape and appearance, 
has an enormous mouth, with shear-like sides to his jaws, 
large, fierce eyes, and is withal gifted with an exceptional 
degree of muscular energy. When alive, this great fish 
shades off from dark oxidized silver along the back to the 
most brilliant of metallic silver with gleams of gold along 
the sides and head. Even in death the big scales retain 
much of their beauty. The tarpon is only fairly good as a 
table fish. The coast residents, however, dry the flesh in 
the open air, and keep it as an article of food. 

Tarpon fishing is not all fun, since he does not readily take 
the bait. Persevering, but unlucky fishermen, have been 
known to sit in their boats several hours daily for weeks, and 
finally give up in despair, without having secured so much as 
a nibble. 

Special tackle is now made for this sport, to wit, rods of 
split-bamboo, seven to nine feet long, large multiplying 
click reels that will hold two hundred yards of (15 to 21 
thread) linen line. The reel should be used with a thumb- 
stall or equivalent device, and a favorite hook is the 10/0 
Dublin-bend Limerick, forged and ringed. How best to rig 
the snell is still in doubt. It must be twenty-four to twenty- 
eight inches long, because it will not hold unless gorged by 
the fish. No hook will hold in the armor-plated mouth. 
Wire and small chains are objectionable because sharks fre- 
quently take the bait, and it is desirable to have them bite 
the snell in two, and carry off the hook alone instead of more 
or less line. A solid snell is often cut by the shear-like 
action of the tarpon's jaw-plates. Such a snell passed 
through a small rubber-tube has its advocates, but many of 
the most successful fishermen have settled upon a snell mad& 
of rather loosely laid cotton cod-line, dyed some dark color, 



PUNTA GORDA. 231 

so as to be nearly invisible wlien wet. It is difficult for the 
fisli to cut this with his shears, nor is he so apt to feel it be- 
fore fully swallowing the bait. A good tarpon rod may cost 
from $12 to $22 ; a reel from $5 to $35 ; two hundred yards 
braided linen line, say $3 ; snells, if shop made, $3 to $5 a 
dozen ; gaff, $4 to $10. Complete outfit, say $25 upward. 

The usual bait is mullet, half the fish being put upon the 
hook, thrown to a distance from the boat and allowed to sink 
to the bottom. Then there is nothing to do but wait, and 
put on fresh bait every hour. The tarpon feeds in shoal 
water, and may often be seen prowling about and stirring up 
the muddy bottom. When he takes the bait he must be 
allowed to carry off a dozen yards or so of line before strik- 
ing. This amount of line is usually unreeled and coiled on 
a thwart, so as to offer no resistance. When struck, tlie 
fish begins a series of leaps, striving to shake himself 
clear, and it is often two hours before he is so far exhausted 
that he can be brought alongside and gaffed. Experienced 
fishermen say that the protracted excitement of landing a 
tarpon far exceeds that afforded by the salmon, hitherto 
considered the king of game-fishes. 

The tarpon season begins in March and improves for 
sporting purposes as the weather grows warmer. Thus far, 
Charlotte Harbor, in the vicinity of Punta Kassa, has proved 
the best fishing-ground ; but this is probably because the 
habits of the game in that vicinity have been more thor- 
oughly studied than elsewhere. Tarpon certainly abound 
all along the Gulf coast, and in a lesser degree on the At- 
lantic coast, as far up as the St. John's Kiver. In February, 
1889, the upper reaches of Biscayne Bay were alive with 
them, and the residents thereabout were spearing them at 
will. Four skilled fishermen, however, failed to induce 
them to bite, probably because it was too early in the sea- 
son. 

Etiquette among tarpon fishers prescribes that when a fish 
is hooked, boats near at hand shall up anchor and keep out 
of the way. 



9?,9 



PUNTA GORDA— WINTER PARK. 



The latest official tarpon record, as kept at Punta Eassa, 
is appended. 



1839. 




4:1 


1 

a 
1— 1 


4i 
be 

£ 

11Q 


1889. 




En 


CO 

0! 

M 

5 

! 


1 


Feby 28. 


C. A. Grymes 

W.W. Jacobus 

Thos. E. Tripler . . . 

Thos. J. Falls...;".; 
Geo. A. Frost 

Thos. E. Tripier-; ; ; 

G^o. A. Frost 

Franlc L. Anthony. 

Thos. J. Falls 

Thos. E. Tripler . . . 

Thos. J. Falls 

Geo. A. Frost 

E. Prime 

O. A. Mygatt 

Thos. B. Asten 

Wm. Thorne 

R. K. Mygatt 

Wm.E. Thorne.... 

il (.1, 

E. Prime 


6 2 


April 23. 
•• 23. 
'• 23.- 
" 23. 
•' 24. 
" 24. 


E. Prime 


6 

I 
1 

6 


149 


March 2. 

" 7. 

" 8. 

9. 


6 
5 
5 
5 
5 
fi 

5 
6 
6 


.. 114 
4 1 84i 

10 n^\ 

9 lOoi 
1 76 
3 77 

11 132 

1 U87 
5^4. MU 


Thos. B. Asten 

Frank I^. Anthony, 

E. Prime ; 


125 
55 

77 

80 

135 


•• 16. 

" 18. 
" 21. 
" 21. 


" 21. 
iMoy 2. 
! •■ 3. 

6. 

7. 

8. 

9. 

9. 
" 10. 
" 11. 
'' 18. 
" 14. 
'• 14. 
" 14. 
'• 15. 
•' 15. 
" If). 
" 16. 
*• 16. 
" 16. 
" 16. 
" 17. 
" 17. 
" 17. 
•' 17. 
" 18. 
" 18. 


Thos. B. Asten 

E. Prime.. 


6 , 5 145 

5 9 i 98 

6 3 115 
4 i 8 i 53 


" 22. 
" 23. 
" 26. 
" 27. 
• '' 29. 
" 30. 


6 3 181 
5 11 125 
5 6 90 

5 8 99 

6 ..127 
5 1 78 

5 2 72 
5:1 70 

6 2 iWO ! 




5 10il25J 

6 2 139i 
5 ' 5 : 93i 
5 10 .109 

5 ,11 108 

6 ?,4'l9(i 


April 3. 


1. 


5' 
6 
5 
6 
5 
5 
4 
5 
6 
6 
6 
5 
6 
6 
6 
5 


ilOfi 
9i 94 
2 10.5* 


" 4. 
'* 5. 




" 8. 


6 1 
6 4 

4 11 

5 2 
6|.. 

5: 8 

9 7 

6 '. 4 


144 

141 
69 
85 

116 
93 
95 

147 




6i 

1 

10^ 
10^ 

6i 

6 


92i 
11<^ 


9. 




9. 




94 


•' 10. 




101 


•' 11. 




'ifi 


" 12. 


0. A. Mygatt 

R. K. Mygatt 

Wm. E. Thome..,. 

Thos. B. Asten 

Fi-ank L. Anthony. 

R. K. Mygatt 

E. Prime 

R.K. Mygatt 

Thos. B. Asten 

Frank L. Anthony. 




79 


•' 15. 




4i 184i 


•' 17. 




1 
4 
7 
4 
6 
5 
lU 


120i 
146+ 


• " 17. 


5 9 105 i 
5 8 95 : 

5 2 61 1 

6 4 134 

6 1 3 116 I 
6 1 130 1 




" 17. 




103 


" 19. 




VrH 


'• 20. 




158 


" 20. 




1?0# 


" 21. 




f|Sf 


'• i!2. 


6 


1 


no 1 

1 







• 83. Winter Park, Orange County. 

Population, 600.— Lat, 28° 33' N.— Long. 81° 20' West.— Elevation, 92 feet 
above St. John's Eiver. 

Hotels.— I'^e Seminole, $4 a d.ay.— Rogers Hotel, $2 to $2.50 a day. 

Eailroad.— The South Florida Railroad, south to Tampa and Punta Gorda ; 
north to Sanford, Jacksonville, etc. Three trains daily. And to Orlando. 4 
miles south. 

I'ramway from station to hotels. 

Churches. — Congregational and Episcopal. 

On leaving the train the traveller at once notes an air of 
neatness and thrift in streets, houses, and stores. The busi- 
ness blocks are mainly in the vicinity of the railroad station. 
Elsewhere are charming cottages, often overlooking one or 
another of the several lakes. Well-laid board walks are a 
pleasant relief from the deep sand often encountered, and 
convenient tramways and excellent livery stables afford fa- 



WINTER PARK. 233 

cilities for those who would rather ride than walk. From 
the observatory of the Seminole hotel fourteen lakes are in 
sight, though some of them can hardly be detected by a 
stranger Without the aid of a local expert. The outlook, 
however, covers a most alluring lake region, set in a land of 
wooded hills often rising boldly from the waterside, here 
clothed with the native forest, and there showing the deep 
green and gold of orange groves. The largest lakes sur- 
rounding the town are Maitland to the north, Osceola and 
Virginia west and south, and Killarney east. Many of these, 
as well as the smaller intervening lakes, are connected by 
channels navigable often for launches and always for small 
boats, of which there is a good supply at the hotel landings. 
A steam launch makes two round trips daily through lakes 
Osceola and Virginia (fare 25c.), a very pleasant excursion. 

The railway to Oiiando, after passing between lakes 
Mizell and Virginia, skirts the north shore of the latter and 
turns southward, crossing a creek to Lake Sue. Then, in 
succession, are lakes Estelle, Rowena, Formosa, Ivanhoe, 
Highland, and Concord, which is within the borders of Or- 
lando. 

In the centre of the town is a public park of ten acres, 
surrounding the railroad station, and the general plan of 
streets and boulevards is excellent. 

Within easy driving distance is Clay Spring, across which 
strong swimmers strive in vain to pass, so powerful is the 
upward rush of water through a dark chasm in the rock. 
Lake ApopJca, one of the large lakes of Florida, is twelve 
miles to the westward, and to the eastward is a wide, un- 
settled region, where hunters may find the large and small 
game of the Florida woods. 

Rollins College, situated on a high bluff overlooking Lake 
Virginia, is open from October to May, inclusive. It has 
handsome and well-appointed buildings, and is designed to 
afford facilities for collegiate training to residents and to 
Northerners whose health demands a mild winter climate. 

Winter Park was a wilderness in 1881. It was founded 
and developed by Messrs. Loring A. Chase-, of Chicago, and 
Mr. Oliver E. Chapman, of Canton, Mass. 



234 ORLANDO. 



83. Orlando, Orange County (C.H.). 

Populatioii, 10,000. 

Hotels (rates by the day). — Charleston House, $3. — Magnolia House, $2.50 to 
$3.— Wilcox House, $8.— Windsor Hotel, $3. 

Kailboads. — South Florida, north to Sandford, Indian Kiver, Jacksonville, 
etc. ; south to Tampa and Punta Gorda. And the Tavares, Orlando & Atlantic 
Kailroad west to Tavares, Leesburg, etc. 
j^ Churches. — Eoman Catholic, Baptist, Congregational, Episcopal, Methodist. 

/JanA;s.— National Bank of Orlando. — Orlando Loan and Savings Bank. 

In location and topographical surroundings Orlando is 
identical with its more rural neighbor, Winter Park ; but as 
a business centre, with the county court-houses, stores, manu- 
factories, and the industrial activities of a rich and product- 
ive region, it has a distinctive and, commercially speaking, 
far more important life of its own. 

From Orlando to Winter Park is a short and pleasant ride 
by rail (4: miles, 25 minutes) or carriage road. To Tavares, 
Leesburg, and Lake Apopka, there is direct and easy com- 
munication by rail, and by the Orange Belt Railway to Tar- 
pon Springs and the Pinellas Peninsula. All kinds of sup- 
plies for hunting and fishing expeditions can be procured to 
good advantage in the city, and guides can be obtained for 
extended hunting expeditions toward the headwaters of the 
St. John's Eiver, thirty miles to the eastward. 



BISCAYNE BAY. 235 

90. Biscayne Bay, Dade County. 

Lat. 25° 25' to 25" 56' N.— Long. 80° 10' W. 
Hotel. — Bay View, at Cocoanut Grove, $10 a week. 

^oa^.— Good-sized sloop or yawl with two men, $50 a month. Sailboats $2 
a day. Few good rowboats. 
Means of access. — Sailing vessels from Key West. 

If natural advantages of climate, location, and surround- 
ings are alone to be considered, Biscayne Bay may challenge 
comparison with any part of Florida. At present the only. 
stated means of access is by way of Key West, whence mail 
boats sail once a week. The trip (about one hundred and 
fifty miles) may be made in a day, or it may take a week. 
This is the only nominally " regular " passenger traffic. A; 
small steamer, the lola, has been advertised to run from Key 
West to Miami, but no details of its actual service are at hand. 
It is understood that the Key West and Havana steamers 
from New York will land freight and passengers at Cape 
Florida as soon as paying returns are assured. 

The present inaccessibility of the bay excludes it from- 
the list of popular resorts, and its beauties and attractions 
are known only to a few appreciative yachtsmen, hunters, 
fishermen, and winter residents. . 

Lying along the southeastern curve of the great peninsula, 
it is on the very edge of the Gulf Stream, and separated 
from it only by a slender line of coral reefs and islands. 
The trade wind blowing from the ocean keeps the day tem- 
perature in fair weather at an average of about 73° F. The 
habitable part of the mainland is a ridge of coralline rock, 
often not more than four or five miles wide, that separates 
the bay from the everglades. 

Through this ridge, at several different points, streams of 
wonderful beauty have cut channels through the rock, and 
all along shore there are boiling springs of greater or less 
energy, yielding pure, soft water in unfailing abundance. 
The bay itself is about forty miles long by six miles wide. 
It is separated from the ocean by a long peninsula that 
reaches southward from the mainland until the sea breaks 
through at Nqriis Cut Aiid Bear Cut,, forming Virginia Key 
and Key Biscayne. The ; southern extremity of the latter is- 



236 BISCAYNE BAY. 

known as Cape Florida, and is marked by a fine old lighthouse 
tower, and the ruins of the keeper's house. The light was 
discontinued on the completion of the Fowey Rocks light, six 
miles southeast. The premises, with their picturesque ruins, 
are now leased from the Government by the Biscayne Bay 
Yacht Club, whose headquarters are at Cocoanut Grove, just 
across the bay. South of this cape is the main oiDening be- 
tween the bay and the ocean, a broad passage five miles wide, 
full of shifting sand-bars, but with several good channels, 
through which vessels of ten feet draught may pass at low 
water. 

In the bay itself are, alternately, sand-bars and wide 
reaches of navigable water, rendering navigation difiicult for 
all save sharpies and boats of very light draught. There is, 
however, deep water and a good anchorage just inside the 
cape, and ten feet draught may be carried through the mid- 
channels of the bay. 

Cocoanut Grove (P.O.) is the most considerable settlement 
on the bay. Here is the only hotel south of Lake Worth, 
and here the Biscayne Bay Yacht Club has its head-quarters. 
Several Northern yachtsmen spend the winter months in this 
delightful haven, where as good hunting and fishing is to be 
found as anywhere in Florida, and where the northers are 
tempered by the everglades on the one]^hand and the ocean 
on the other. 

Miami (P. O.), lately the county seat, is at the mouth of 
Miami Eiver, the site of old Fort Dallas, a considerable 
military post during the Seminole War. It was established 
in January, 1838, and abandoned June 10, 1858. The ruins 
of the old fort, with some of the barracks, still standing and 
occupied as dwellings, are on the north side of the river. 
On the south side are several houses and a store, the latter 
being in effect an Indian trading station, where the Semi- 
noles barter alligator hides from the everglades, and dispose 
of such other trophies of their rifles as are not needed for 
home consumption. It is not uncommon to find two or three 
canoes moored at the wharf, with an indefinite number of 
squaws and papooses on board, and a supply of fresh meat in 
the shape of turtles, and a live pig or two. In the woods 



BISCAYNE BAY. 237 

between Miami and Biscayne, specimens of the Boyal Palm 
{Oreodoxa Regia) are fonnd growing wild, and the curious 
" gumbo limbo," or West Indian birch [Biirsera gummifera), 
is of frequent occurrence. 

The Miami River. For about four miles from the bay the 
stream is from 150 to 200 feet wide, and may be ascended by 
sailboats. It divides into the north and south forks about 
three miles from the mouth, both of them swift, clear 
streams. The north fork has impassable rapids, but the 
south fork can be ascended in small boats to its outlet from 
the everglades, about six miles from the bay. The grasses 
and other aquatic plants that cover the bottom of the stream 
are wonderfully beautiful in their varied color and graceful 
movements as they are swayed to and fro by the clear, rush- 
ing water. Sailing about the bay in any direction with a 
suitable shallow-draft boat is the perfection of smooth- 
water cruising. Among the points of especial interest are 
the following ; distances are given from Cocoanut Grove. 

Biscayne Bay House of Refuge (12 miles). This station is 
situated on a lonely beach about seven miles north of Norris 
Cut. There is good shooting in the hammock and along the 
ridges of Bay Biscayne. Three miles south of the station is 
the Crocodile Pond, a small, land-locked pool midway be- 
tween the bay and the ocean, which, for some reason, is the fa- 
vorite resort of the crocodile ( Crocodilus Acutus, Floridiensis), 
as distinguished from the common alligator of the fresh- 
water swamps. The principal difference is in the sharper 
nose, more formidable teeth, and fiercer disposition of the 
crocodile, and in the different articulation of his jaws, both 
of them being hinged, whereas in the case of the alligator 
only the lower one is hinged. The alligator is rarely 
dangerous, but the crocodile, it is said, will attack a man if 
he thinks he has a reasonable chance of success. For this 
reason strangers are recommended to exercise some caution 
in visiting this pond. 

Arch GreeTi (15 miles). Near the head of the bay. A 
wonderfully beautiful stream, flowing in a strong, deep cur- 
rent through a wide tangle of mangroves near its mouth. 
Two miles up the stream divides. Follow north fork about 



238 BISCAYNE BA"5f. 

one-lialf mile to cliffs. Here the stream has woru a passage 
through the coralline rock. Cliffs rise at times twenty feet 
or more above the water, draped with a luxuriant growth of 
vines, air-plants, mosses, wild figs, and a perplexing wealth 
of tropical vegetation. Three miles from its mouth the 
stream flows beneath a wide, low arch of rock, under which 
a boat may pass at ordinary stages of the water. Arch Creek 
may be ascended to the everglades, two miles above the arch. 

Bluff Rocks (3 miles). This range of cliffs has not its like 
in Florida. Rising abruptly from the water's edge, midway 
between Cocoanut Grove and Miami, it is the most conspic- 
uous natural landmark on the bay. The precipitous part of 
the bluff is a little more than one mile long, and at its high- 
est about thirty feet above the water. Of course, this height 
would be insignificant in a hilly country, but in Florida it is 
sufficiently remarkable to be famous. The water is shallow 
at the foot of the rocks, but a landing may be effected in a 
small boat, and the cliffs can be climbed almost anywhere. 
Along the top of the cliff is a dense hammock growth, with 
wild groves of orange and lime trees, in full bearing. Here 
and there are ruins, apparently of civilized abodes, and at 
the foot of the cliff near by is the Punch Bowl, to which 
stone-cut steps lead and which evidently furnished the water 
supi^ly for these forgotten first settlers. No record exists of 
Spanish occuj)ation, but it seems most reasonable to suppose 
that there was here either a missionary station or a piratical re- 
treat, and in either case Spaniards were probably responsible. 

Soldier Key, EllioU''s Key, and Fowey Rocks Light are all 
within easy sailing distance of Cocoanut Grove. On the first 
jiamed are buildings originally erected by the workmen en- 
gaged in constructing Fowey Rocks lighthouse. They have 
been transferred to the Fish Commission with a view to ex- 
perimenting in sponge-culture. On ElUoifs Key are fine 
plantations of pineapples, and inside this and the neighbor- 
ing keys men are at work gathering and curing the sponges 
that grow in abundance in the waters of the bay. In shel- 
tered positions at the different inlets or " cuts " where the 
tide runs strong are often seen square pens or " kraals," 
where the sponges are left for a time to be washed by the 



BISCAYNE BAY, 239 

ebb and flow, and partially bleached by exposure to the 
sun. 

Fowey Rocks Light (Lafc. 25° 35' 25" N., Long. 80^ b' 41" 
W.) is a pyramidal iron structure standing in about five feet 
of water on the northern extremity of the dangerous Florida 
Eeefs. The lantern is 111 feet above the sea level and 
shows a fixed white light visible 16^ nautical miles. The 
lighthouse was completed in 1878 and takes the place of the 
old tower on Cape Florida, the location being better for 
the purposes of navigation. Formerly these rocks were 
called the " Looe," probably a corruption of " Les Loups," 
the wolves, and tradition has it that a frigate was lost 
here in the early days. It is even said that under favor- 
able conditions her submerged guns and some of her tim- 
bers can still be seen. 

Walks, etc. There are no roads in the vicinity of Bis- 
cayne Bay save a few very rough cart-paths in the immediate 
vicinity of the settlements. The walking on the ridge separa- 
ting the sea and the everglades is indescribably difficult and 
even dangerous, owing to the disintegrated rock that covers 
the surface. The stoutest of boots are needed for pedestrian 
excursions, and not even these will last long. The walk 
across the ridge to the everglades and back is a hard day's 
work and should be undertaken only by the strong and sure- 
footed. The beaches of Key Biscayne, Virginia Key, 
and of the peninsula to the northward afford good walking 
and are always interesting. So too are occasional stretches 
of beach on the mainland to the southward. On one of 
these, about six miles south of Oocoanut Grove, and about 
one-half mile north of Shoal Point, is a bed of singing sand 
that emits a musical note under foot. 

Tarpon abound in Biscayne Bay, but have not at this 
writing been taken with the rod. The kingfish is taken by 
trolling or even with the rod just outside the reefs, Spanish 
mackerel, sea-trout, pompano, and the more common kinds of 
salt-water fish abound in the bay, while bass, bream, and the 
usual fresh water varieties are caught in the various streams. 

Waterfowl are for the most part very shy, as they are shot 
at all the way down the coast on their long journey from 



240 BISCAYNE BAY. 

Labrador. They are abundant, however, and may be shot 
with due exercise of skill and patience. There are plenty 
of quail in the woods and prairies, but without dogs it is 
wellnigh impossible to find birds that fall in the scrub. Deer 
in considerable numbers find pasturage along the border 
of the prairies and everglades, but they are very shy and 
are persistently hunted by the Indians. 

Yachtsmen intending to winter in these waters should not 
be misled by any preconceived ideas in favor of keel boats ; 
such craft are worse than useless. The sharpie with not 
more than three feet draught of water is the only boat suit- 
able for pleasure cruising about the Florida Reefs and adja- 
cent inland waters. 



End of Part I. 



The Florida Eeef s proper, the Keys, Cape Sable, and the Gulf Coast will be 
included in forthcoming additions to the present Handbook. 



The Seville, 

Seville, Volusia Co. 
FLORIDA. 



Twenty-eight miles south of Palatka; forty- 
two miles south of St. Augustine. On the 
ridge between the Atlantic Ocean and the St. 
Johns. In the piney woods, surrounded by 
orange groves and limpid lakes. Supplied w^ith 
water, sweet {not sulphurous), from a lake 
fed by living springs. In salubrious country, 
w^ith most approved sewerage. 



BOATING. SHOOTING. DRIVING. 



Bath rooms. Fresh vegetables from hotel 
gardens. All express trains stop ; through 
Pullman car on train leaving New York at 
9 P.M. daily. 

Rates, $3.50 per Day. 
HENRY L. HUNTRESS, 

Of (New) Senter House, Centre Harbor, N. H., 



Abbey & Imbrie, 



18 Vesey Street, 

NEW YORK CITY, 



MANUFACTURERS OF 



EVKRY DKSCRIPTION OK 




TRA 



FISHING TACKLE 



Send. S5 Cents 



Kor 136 Page Catalogne. 



HOTEL PUNTA GORDA, 

rVNTA GORBA, FLORIDA. 



Every Room is a Front Room, Facing the Bay. 
Opens January ist, i890. 



We take pleasure in announcing to our friends and the pub- 
lic that Hotel Punta Gorda will be open about January first, with a 
full corps of New England service. This new and beautiful Hotel is 
located on Charlotte Harbor at the terminus of the Florida Southern 
Railway (now leased and controlled by the Jacksonville, Tampa, and 
Key West Railway, which is a guarnntee of first-class train service). 
All trains arrive at and depart from the Hotel steps. Ticket, Pullman 
Car, Express and Telegraph offices in the Hotel. 

The Punta Gorda is elegantly furnished, has gas, electric bells, and 
open fireplaces ; is three stories high, 150 front rooms with a superb out- 
look over the beautiful Bay, which is about one mile across to Hickory 
Bluffs. The Hotel has a veranda over 400 feet in length, so arranged 
that one can find sunshine or shade at any hour of the day. It has the 
finest lawn in Florida, containing over two acres, with beautiful shell 
walks, hedges, flower plats, shade and fruit trees. It is supplied with 
plenty of soft water and has perfect drainage. The climate at Punta 
Gorda is as nearly perfect as any in the world ; free from cold waves, 
and tempered by the salt water breezes from the Gulf of Mexico, 
which invigorate but do not chill. 

A billiard room is connected with the Hotel, and Sail-boats and 
Row-boats can always be had. The fine pier directly in front of the 
Hotel gives a beautiful promenade. No expense will be spared in the 
endeavor to contribute in everyway to the comfort and pleasure of the 
guests. 

The celebrated Summit Springs mineral water from Harrison, 
Maine, will be served free to guests in the dining room. 

The only Hotel in the state giving every guest a front room facing 
the Gulf waters. It is also surrounded by the best hunting grounds in 
Florida. 

Charlotte Harbor is acknowledged by all to be the finest fishing 
ground in the United States. The tarpon fishing with rod and reel 
takes the lead, while for the hunter there is an inexhaustible supply of 
ducks, wild turkeys, deer and other game. 

The Morgan Line ot steamers arrive and leave twice a week for 
Key West, Havana, Cedar Keys, and New Orleans. 

For terms, etc., address D. H. Swan, 40 Water St., Room 10, 
Boston, Mass. After December 20, Punta Gorda, Florida. 



D. H. SWAN, Hotel Punta Gorda, Florida. 
D. H. SWAN, HARRY B. WARDEN, 

Proprietor. Manager. 

Also Summit Springs Hotel, Also of United States Hotel, 

Harrison, Maine. Atlantic City, N.J. 



THE TROPICAL TRUNK LINE 

JACKSONVILLE, TAMPA, AND KEY 
WEST SYSTEM. 

A system of rail and steamer lines, equipped with all the 
modern improved appliances for the comfort of tourists, insuring 
safe, speedy, and reliable transportation without unpleasant trans- 
fers ; covers something more than one thousand miles of tropical 
territory, and reaches direct 

ALL WINTER PLEASURE RESORTS 

of southern Florida. All through passenger trains on this line 
carry Pullman Buffet, Sleeping, and Parlor Cars. 

ROUTE OF THE WEST INDIA FAST MAIL 

Between NEW YORK and HAVANA, 

The only line extending to the 

FAMOUS INDIAN RIVER. 

Direct route to the Orange, Sugar, Tobacco, and Fruit producing 
sections of Florida. 

For maps, souvenirs, schedules, etc., apply to any ticket agent, 
or address the General Passenger Agent, Jacksonville. 

Save yourselves annoyance, and economize in the matter of 
expenditures on your tours, by securing tickets via the Jacksonville, 
Tampa, and Key West System. 

D. F. JACK, G. D. ACKERLY, 

General Manager, General Passenger Agent, 

JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 



THE S T. AUGUS TINE ROU TE, 

JACKSONVILLE, ST. AUGUSTINE & HALIFAX 
RIVER RAILWAY. 



The new Iron Bridge across the St. Johns River, 
at Jacksonville, was completed Christmas Day, 1889. 
Through Pullman Parlor and Sleeping Cars now run 
between New York, Philadelphia, Washington, Cin- 
cinnati, Louisville, other cities, and St. Augustine, 
without change. The 

New York and Florida Special, 

Pullman Vestibule, Limited, 

RUNS DIRECT TO AND FROM 

ST. AUGUSTINE. 



A new route open via St. Augustine and Daytona 
to the 

Famous Indian River Country, 

Steamers connecting at Daytona with Jacksonville, 
St. Augustine & Halifax River Railway, running via 
the Halifax and Hillsboro and the Indian River and 
Lake Worth. 

For information as to routes, rates, maps, etc., 
call on Ticket Agents, or address the General 
Passenger Agent. 

D. F. JACK, G. D. ACKERLY, 

General Manager, General Passenger Agent, 

JACKSONVILLE, FLA. 



THE INDIAN RIVER, 

FLORIDA. 

Famous for its fish, and great variety of tropical fruits ; a winter 
resortj where one may enjoy to the fullest extent Florida's varied 
winter sports, 

HUNTING, BOATING, FISHING, BATHING, 

and all within sight of most comfortable winter hotels. Among 
the latter are 

Hotel Indian River, Hotel Carlton, Hotel Chattahoochee, 

{A T ROCKLEDGE. ) [A T MELBOURNE. ) M T JUPITER. ) 

Hotel Lake Worth, Cocoanut Grove Hotel, 

{AT LAKE WORTH P. 0.) {AT PALM BEACH.) 

The climate of the lower Indian River and of Lake Worth is 
really tropical, being entirely under the influence and controlled 
by that 

FAMOUS RIVER OF THE SEA, 

the Gulf Stream, flowing northward from the Caribbean Sea, and 
washing the shores of the United States at this point only. 

THE INDIAN RIVER STEAMBOAT COMPANY 

operate a large fleet of steamers between Daytona, Titusville, 
Rocldedge, Melbourne, Eden, Jupiter, and intermediate landings. 
The following passenger steamers in the line, the "St. Lucie," 
the "St. Sebastian," the "St. Augustine," the "S. White," and 
the "Georgiana," affording a daily line for the tourist season be- 
tween points mentioned. 

For schedules, maps, rates, etc., call on agents of the Jackson- 
ville, Tampa, and Key West System, or address the General 
Passenger Agent at Jacksonville. 

D. F. JACK, G. D. ACKERLY, 

General Manager. General Passenger Agent. 



jsTE'w BOOJ<:s OF tiia.'v:el, 

THE SKIPPER IN ARCTIC SEAS. 

By W. J. CLUTTERBUCK, one of the Authors of " Three in 
Norway,'' " B. C. 1887," etc. With Map and Thirty-nine Illus- 
trations (19 Full-page). Crown 8vo, 277 pages, $2.25. 

TRAVELS IN THE ATLAS AND SOUTHERN 
MOROCCO : A Narrative of Exploration, 

By JOSEPH THOMSON, F. R. G. S. , Author of " Through Masai- 
land. '' With 68 Illustrations of Life and Scenery in Morocco, 
together with Six Maps. Crown Bvo, cloth, 504 pages, $3.00. 
" To recommend it is a duty as well as a pleasure." — ^N~. Y. Times. 
" Mr. Thomson, a wilful as well as a dauntless explorer, justified the risks 
he ran by success; and his narrative of adventure gives us an exciting peep at the 
mighty Atlas, a very good idea of Southern Morocco, a stirring picture of the city 
itself, and graphic sketches of the Moorish, Jewish, and Berber races with whom 
he came in contact." — Spectator. 

THE LONG WHITE MOUNTAIN ; or, A Journey in 
Manchuria, with an Account of the History, Admin- 
istration, and Religion of that Province. 

By H. E. JAMES, of Her Majesty's Bombay Civil Service. With 
a Map, 10 Full-page Illustrations, and 28 Illustrations in the Text. 
Bvo, cloth, $6.oo.- 

"A volume which will rank high among the most interesting books of travel 
produced in recent years. . . . The book is a most modest record of manly 
travel, and is of permanent value for its careful and accurate account of the little- 
known country which now alone separates China from Russia." — Times. 

B. C. 1887 : A RAMBLE IN BRITISH COLUMBIA. 

By J. A. LEES and W. J. CLUTTERBUCK, Authors of " Three 
in Norway." With Map and 75 Illustrations from Sketches and 
Photographs by the Authors. Crown 8vo, $2.25. 

"From the account of the rambles themselves, the reader cannot fail to be 
charmed. They are almost entirely on foot or by canoe, and make us familiar in a 
very real and delightful measure with the beauty and vastness of the Pacific 
Province." — The Week, Toronto. 

"Full of fun, abounding in keen observations concerning men and things, and 
affording a very substantial and trustworthy impression of a little known land." 

— Boston Literary World. 

EAST AFRICA AND ITS BIG GAME : The Narrative 
of a Sporting Trip from Zanzibar to the Borders of 
the Masai. 

By CAPTAIN SIR JOHN C. WILLOUGHBY, Bart.. Royal 
Horse Guards. With Postscript by Sir Robert G. Harvey, 
Bart. With 14 Full-page Illustrations in Monotone by G. D. 
Giles and Mrs. Gordon Hake — those of the latter from Photo- 
graphs taken by the Author ; Four Plates containing 22 Litho- 
graphic Illustrations of Game, and a Colored Map of the Game 
Country. Pages xii. -303. Royal 8vo, cloth, ornamental cover, $7.00. 



For sale by all booksellers. Sent on receipt of price by the publishers. 



LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO., 15 East 16th Street, - NEW YORK. 



- a.97\ 



JEtBC:EIsrT FICTION. 



A FAMILY TREE : And Other Stories. 

By BRANDER MATTHEWS. i2mo, ornamental cloth cover 

$1.25. 

"Apart from the originality of his conceptions, his style is in itself a charm, 
recalling the masters of French prose in its conscisness, grace, and crisp epi- 
gram." — Boston Evening Transcript, 

GERALD FFRENCH'S FRIENDS. 

By GEORGE H. JESSOP. i2mo, ornamental cloth cover, $1.25. 
*'The book as a whole is delightfully entertaining, and many of its char- 
acter studies are faithful enough to deserve long life." — Boston Times. 

MICAH CLARKE : His Statement. 

ByA. CONAN DOYLE. Crown 8vo, 421 pp. Extra cloth, $1.50. 

" Easily the best example of the class of fiction to which it belongs of the 
year." — Christian Union. 

THE SON OF A STAR: A Romance of the Second Century. 

By BENJAMIN WARD RICHARDSON, M.D., F.R.S. Crown 

8vo, $1.50. 

*• In more aspects than one a remarkable production, and will be read with 
interest from the first chapter to the last." — N. Y. Mail and Express. 

GOBI OR SHAMO : A Story of Three Songs. 

(" The Great Desert of Gobi or Shamoy — Cornwell's Geography.) 
By G. G. A. MURRAY. Crown 8vo, cloth, 376 pages, $1.25.' 

" It is certainly weird, exciting, and original, and I have but just been able 
to lay it down after perusing page after page of a deliciously thrilling episode." 

— L. B. Walford in '"The Criiic." 

••SUCH IS LIFE." 

A Novel. By MAY KENDALL, Author of "From a Garret," 
" That Very Mab," " Dreams to Sell," etc. i2mo, cloth, $1.25. 

" It is unusual; it has the constant charm of the unexpected, and has in it 
both pathos and humor. The style is so choice, so refined, so full of all-per- 
vading beauty, that it is a special delight to fall upon such a book." 

— Boston Traveller. 

A NINE MEN'S MORRICE : Stories Collected and Re- 
collected. 

By WALTER HERRIES POLLOCK. Crown 8vo, $1.25. 

" Will thoroughly please the superstitious, amuse the skeptical, set the 
inquiring to thinking, and fascinate all." — Boston Times. 

A DANGEROUS CATSPAW : A Story. 

By DAVID CHRISTIE MURRAY and HENRY MURRAY. 

Crown 8vo, $1.00. 

"Written in a most fascinating style, and furnished with a plot teeming 
with genuine surprises." — Boston Beacon. 



For sale by all booksellers. Sent on receipt of price by the publishers. 



LONGMANS, GREEN, & CO., 15 East 16th Street, - NEW YORK. 



